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Joe Shimkonis
http://irahan.ir/shop//images/work.html
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Joe Shimkonis
Can you provide info on the saddle tanks?
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On Apr 27, 2011, at 7:48 AM, “quent” wrote:
Some additional thoughts on fuel tanks:
First, put a magnet on it to find out if the tank is aluminum or steel. If it is aluminum, it is probably intact or repairable. Our tank had pitting corrosion from the inside several of which penetrated the tank bottom as pinhole size leaks. The top and sides were good as new. We repaired our tank with West system epoxy and fiberglass, which is permitted under ABYC guidelines on non-ferrous fuel tanks.
After you remove, or move the engine forward several feet, the tank may or may not fit through the space. We had to remove some of the tank support structure to fit under the mizzen mast support beam which is there even if you have the sloop model. The tank just barely fit through the companionway.
We also added a couple saddle tanks outboard in the cockpit lockers for extra fuel capacity.
Quent
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Joe Shimkonis
I had split tanks installed with a gap in the middle of about 6 inches.So 2
identical twin tanks identical to original but width cut down to allow
installation..Total capacity for fuel now 50 gals [approx].With tanks this size
they were installed thru the cockpit port locker.Made by the same manufacturer
as the original tank.Would have preferred more fuel capacity.Installed by
Deaton’s in Oriental.The original tank was removed in pcs using a sawzaw
and about 4 hours.Wood cradle left intact.In fact,was diesel saturated but after
3 days dried out and strong as ever.It may be possible to close the 6 inch gap
and utilize more of the cradle cubic ft.2 flow valves switch from Port to
Starboard tank for flow to the engine and return,2 separate filler hoses and
deck caps.An electronic fuel and can switched to monitor either tank.Hope this
helps.________________________________
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Joe Shimkonis
What did you select for a new prop
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On Apr 16, 2011, at 6:00 PM, “kalinowski” wrote:
After a month in the yard (and thus missing the wrath of the tsunami), Lady Leanne II has splashed. Her bottom was peeled, faired, 4 coats of barrier, and 2 coats of bottom paint. The new Tack Tick transducers were mounted along with repainted hull stripes, new prop, new PSS, new anchors/rodes/windlass and new cutless bearing. All the cushions were reupholstered. With the hull buff, she looks great.
Her old marina was totally destroyed by the tsunami and we sailed her around O’ahu to her new berth at Ko Olina on the leeward side. Now to repair the damage to my AMEX.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Ko Olina, O’ahu_______________________________________________
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Joe Shimkonis
I luv it. I now have a new project.Do you have drawings and or dimensions for the bench seat/tool box.It really is a great place for tools and cleans up the space nicely.
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On Apr 16, 2011, at 11:51, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:
Finished the nav seat and desk this week, it’s nice to have things going
together instead of coming apart… 😉http://www.flickr.com/photos/26558453@N03/5623329453/
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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Joe Shimkonis
W M sells a plague that’s made for inflatables.You supply the company your registration numbers and it comes ready to go,simply glue it on over the current numbers.not cheap $50.
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On Mar 15, 2011, at 17:39, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:
I need to do this too, but to remove the numbers and put on T/T Deep Playa.
I think the best way to go is to glue on a strip of Hypalon and then put the
lettersnumbers on top.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 3:04 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Well, I finally changed the registration of my boats (Sarah and the dinghy)
from MD to FL. It wasn’t entirely voluntary. The FL DNR and State Police
vessels go by my berth on the Ortega Rive several times a week. They keep
looking my way. My guess it won’t be long before they inquire about my
registration.
Anyway, that deed is done, both vessels are registered in FL. No problem
for Sarah, I just cover the MD sticker on the mast with the FL one. The
dinghy is another matter. I need to replace the MD registration numbers
with the ones for FL.
My dinghy is an AB Hypalon RIB and the current numbers were painted on with
that stuff WM sells. I don’t think it will come off, it has stood up to 8
years of Sun and water. My initial thought is to paint over the numbers
with black (same color as the numbers), then stencil in the new numbers in
white. My problem is what type of paint to use to cover the old numbers.
I
can’t see using the same paint for that purpose, it would take several of
those little expensive jars to do the job. Any suggestions on what will
stick to Hypalon?—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Joe Shimkonis
I totally agree with that suggestion.My Pearson had a custom color nonskid that I spent $ and time trying to match myself with no luck.I asked a fiberglass man to look at it.He spent 5 minutes mixing up a color using gelcoat and tint colors.Perfect match and I was shocked.Guys that repair hulls for a living do blending and color matching routinely as part of their job.
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On Mar 8, 2011, at 17:56, “quent” wrote:
Can label says
F501400Q
B#1838
Sea Ray old white 70-79
Bar code: 88574006970If I might make a suggestion: You can’t gelcoat over paint. Perhaps try to compound off the name by hand, not machine. If once the paint is off, if you aren’t happy with the result, have a good gelcoat guy match and repair the transom. A good job would match very well and save you a lot of work.
Q_______________________________________________
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Joe Shimkonis
We have discussed it many times.And for me after 5 years it is still a project that once a year I am ready to just fill it.I asked a sailing friend and Capt for advice.His bilge is snow white and dry.He explained how he did it.I showed him mine.Comment-that s a basement!
One big concern I have.Even if you fill it in-5 inches with something-is there a risk that thru expansion and contraction due to temp change,will it buckle?I think a spray foam and then Fiberglas over the top would work but I m not sure it will hold up.I recall one boat filled all the way with foam but I recall the next owner having big issues with it.I know Lowes sells some concrete that sets up under water.Any chemical/engineers out there that can tell me it will work and no risk.Pls
Sent from my iPadOn Jan 31, 2011, at 18:46, “skipmac” <> wrote:
Found this old thread and wanted to find out if anyone actually filled the bottomless pit with concrete or any other material for that matter. I am seriously considering this option but want to make sure I’m not missing anything before taking an irrevocable step.
First, my situation is a bit different as I am not really an owner of a 424 but instead the 422 mutation. Hope this confession doesn’t get me tossed off the forum.
In the 422 there is a fiberglass tank over the sump but the tank is not totally integral to the hull. Instead, it appears to be fabricated separately and then set into the well and glassed onto the hull, leaving a thin gap around the sides (+/- 1″) and under the tank (about 5″ high).
The area is completely inaccessible, to the point that I can’t even get a mirror to a spot to allow me to look into the space, much less reach into the space for cleaning or retrieving parts. From aft the frame supporting the V-drive blocks access, from forward there is a floor frame just in front of the water tank and just a small gap between the front edge of the water tank and the spot where the bilge drops down into the sump.
I am not so much concerned about a weak point there as just to seal off a place that collects stuff that could potentially float up and block a bilge pump in an emergency. Plus I can’t even get a pressure washer nozzle in there to clean the space and I’m trying to clear out 25 years of sludge and grease and want to keep it clean.
The only possible concern is, depending on how I do this, it may create two separate bilge areas requiring separate pumps. That I can accept but any other concerns or problems that I may create?
So, has anyone done it? What material did you end up using? Happy with the results?
Thanks
SkipPS
I taped a 5′ piece of water hose to my vacuum cleaner and manged to feed it into the pit. Came out with 2 rags, assorted pieces of wood and plastic, pieces of tie wraps, a socket, several nuts bolts and washers and a couple of unidentified parts._______________________________________________
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Joe Shimkonis
Was it a Pearson?
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On Jan 31, 2011, at 19:34, Pete Dubler wrote:
Last night I watched the 1949 John Wayne movie The Wake of the Red Witch. I captured this great part from Wayne:
It’s more than a ship.
It’s a home, the world, a breathing thing.
Nothing holds it back.
The wind takes it and carries it for 10,000 miles.
Every one of these you’re free.
It’s like being a bird — instead of the sky, it’s the sea.
You have a whole empire of freedom — sea freedom.
You are alive the same way the ship’s alive.
You run before the wind and you never want to stop.
John Wayne as Captain Ralls in Wake of the Red Witch, 1949
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Joe Shimkonis
Thanks Tor-I haven’t located any other brands and will probably order a unit
this week.I’ll email if I need advice.Hi Ho Hi Ho Silver!________________________________
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Joe Shimkonis
I used 4 by 8 sheets of white paneling with 2 grooves every 2-3 inches.From Home Depot and approved for bathrooms.It has held up fantastic and looks like the ceilings on Shannans.I think it was like $20 a sheet,no painting.And if you do have a problem,buy a new one.The installation looks as good as the day it was installed.I get nothing but compliments.
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On Jan 28, 2011, at 16:49, Dawn Rodney wrote:
Quote:http://www.cranecomposites.com/sequentia/structoglasceiling.asp#RELATEDRESOURCESHas anyone used or have experience using this material on theirs or any
boat?
Thanks,
DawnOn Fri, Jan 28, 2011 at 1:05 PM, wrote:
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Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2011 12:04:37 -0800Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Joe Shimkonis
