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I should have noted in the description of my topping lift that I also have a solid boom vang that supports to boom without a topping lift. So if I ever need to use my topping lift as a halyard the boom is still supported and won't drop on deck when the halyard is slacked. I've also kept the harbor lift (or whatever it is called – if it has a name) so I can secure the boom when motoring or moored. So I really haven't lost a spare halyard to a topping lift,  especially since I've never actually lost the primary halyard.Rich,For the ketches the original topping lift (at least on Sarah) was what I've called a Harbor Lift (don't know where I picked up the name). This is a piece of wire attached to the forward edge of the mizzen mast with a snap shackle that is clipped to the end of the main boom. This doesn't have the mast pumping problem you describe, but it is not very effective. What you describe would be a major improvement for the ketch topping lift as well. When I converted to internal halyards on the main mast I added a second mainsail halyard, which I use as a topping lift. That halyard is cord (Sta-Set X) rather than wire, but I can tension it with either the main sheet or the topping lift halyard, so no pumping here either.Tor,I did a quick scan of the MS Office website and I think Outlook now has the ability to handle emails as part of a conversation (AKA threads). Take a look at this tutorial for Outlook 2013.I also went the replacement route in 2011. I should have done that when I repowered in 2008, since I used a yard for the repower. I probably could have negotiated a better overall price for both jobs by doing is at one time. If you are doing the job yourself, that wouldn't apply and there is no logistical reason to do both jobs at once. One problem I encountered with the replacement of the RV-20 with the RV-26 is that the 26 has a slightly larger case. With me repower the jackshaft to the RV-20 was shortened to its minimum length, and then was too long for the RV-26 without having to move the V-drive mounts. I purchased a new shorter jackshaft from Walter. Walter clearly understands that the V-drive case is made out of iron, but they must think their jackshafts are made of titanium. I think I paid around $1,200 for the shaft.My decision to replace rather than rebuild was based on several factors.
- I had the unit re-built by Walter in the first year I owned Sarah, and I was not sure how much value I would get out of another rebuild.
- I was aware of the problems with corrosion of the case, and as Rich points out, no replacement of the case was available. I did not open the case to determine how serious the problem was with my unit, but Sarah is hull #2 so it was the second oldest unit in the fleet.
- I was planning to resume long distance cruising (maybe the SoPac) within the next year or two, so like Tor, I wanted to be as confident as possible in the drive train. We cruising sailors don't like to admit it, but even on ocean crossings we use the engine a lot.
- And the real reason: I just got off a 2-month delivery job and I had 3 or 4 boat units burning a hole in my checking account.
Here's a link to my experience with the RV-26 installation:Â http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewSarahVDrive.html ÂÂ ÂTor,
Glad you came through OK. I think we both prefer being lucky to good. My friends on the Whitby (Hold Fast) got beat up a bit when their anchor dragged and their dinghy flipped over with the outboard getting dunked. Other than minor damage and a lot of bruises they were able to get their anchor reset and avoid major problems.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s Blogone more time: http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Rigging/Rudder%20Bushing.jpg    The server strips carriage returns and line feeds. I put a few spaces after the link, maybe it will work this time.  Regards,John Stevensonwww.svsarah.comSarah's Blog
Let's try this again. The server seems to strip a lot formatting off our emails.http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Rigging/Rudder%20Bushing.jpgRegards,John Stevensonwww.svsarah.comSarah's Blog
Here's a link to the pic on my website:Â http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Rigging/Rudder%20Bushing.jpgRegards,John Stevensonwww.svsarah.comSarah's Blog
I received it in a echo of my email from general@pearson424.org. I received a second echo afterward without the attachment. Never got echoes of my email before.Regards,John Stevensonwww.svsarah.comSarah's Blog
Rod,This was brought to my attention several years ago by Jack Tyler. He was looking for the source of some vibration while sailing across the Pacific. He just pushed it back in place and put a hose clam around the rudder shaft to hold it in place.  That made me check my rudder post and sure enough mine was above the cross beam (pic attached). Seems to be a common issue, if not a major problem. I just pushed the bushing back in place. I'm sure it is back up now. I think I'll use the hose clamp solution if I don't hear of a better solution (not requiring dropping the rudder) on this thread.Regards,John Stevensonwww.svsarah.comSarah's Blog
The yard had great difficulty getting my tank out when I repowered. The problem was getting it under the mast step support beam under the cockpit. If you don't have a ketch that is likely not an issue. The choices were to cut off the fittings welded to the top of of the tank or to modify the beam. Since the new tank had similar fittings, my mechanic beveled the beam so the tank would slip under it. It was a very minor bevel.Regards,John Stevensonwww.svsarah.comSarah's Blog
“JJohn, I expect know about my anti-pyramid stick for the
chain locker. I’m sure I shared it with the group and
in fact it was in the February issue of SAIL as a
Cruising Tip.
“
As a matter fact I was talking to someone the other day and he mentioned an
article he read in Sail about a way to knock down castles. I said, “Yeah I
know the author”.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Mon, Jun 9, 2014 at 11:19 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:If I were doing it again I would install a horizontal
windlass instead of the vertical I have, simply to make
handling the 2nd bow anchor easier. In practice I don’t
set the 2nd anchor all that often, although perhaps I
would do so more frequently if it were as easy as the
#1 hook. I have, however, devised a pretty good and I
believe quite original system for deploying and
retrieving the 2nd bow anchor with the vertical
windlass.John, I expect know about my anti-pyramid stick for the
chain locker. I’m sure I shared it with the group and
in fact it was in the February issue of SAIL as a
Cruising Tip.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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I finally installed an electric windlass on Sarah last summer. I had
planned to follow Tor’s (and other’s) approach to cut out and cover the on
deck locker. i elected to retain the locker (for now). After one winter
anchored in the Bahamas that part of my installation worked reasonably
well, but I can certainly see the advantages of the more radical approach
used by Tor and others.Below is a link to my analysis the Pros and Cons of retaining the on deck
locker.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewQuickWindlass.html#On_Retaining_the_On_Deck_Anchor_LockerRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Mon, Jun 9, 2014 at 9:15 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Pat,I could write a great deal more about that project – it
was a major undertaking for me – but the photos say
most of it. Here (attached) is most of what I have. The
numerical order is not quite chronological, but the
photos illustrate the basic idea. Many in between steps
are missing. Also missing is a shot of the drain holes,
which were drilled port & starboard at the bottom of
the locker, angled slightly down and aft. They function
perfectly and to my knowledge no seawater ever backs
into them.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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Just checkout the Fastco site and it appears they are back in the retail
business.
http://www.fascofastener.com/Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Wed, May 28, 2014 at 11:55 AM, John Stevenson
wrote:Tor,
Having lived in Newport I’m sure you are familiar with Jamestown
Distributors. When I lived there back in the early 80s they supplied
fasteners to most of the boat builders (Pearson, Bristol, Shannon, etc.)
and the local marinas. I haven’t ordered fasteners from them for years. I
used to be able to order from the Fastco site, but I think they got out of
the retail business. I’ve also used these guys once or twice:
http://www.boltdepot.com/Default.aspxRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Wed, May 28, 2014 at 11:33 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Anyone have a good online source for top quality
stainless steel fasteners? Pete?Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor,
Having lived in Newport I’m sure you are familiar with Jamestown
Distributors. When I lived there back in the early 80s they supplied
fasteners to most of the boat builders (Pearson, Bristol, Shannon, etc.)
and the local marinas. I haven’t ordered fasteners from them for years. I
used to be able to order from the Fastco site, but I think they got out of
the retail business. I’ve also used these guys once or twice:
http://www.boltdepot.com/Default.aspxRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Wed, May 28, 2014 at 11:33 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Anyone have a good online source for top quality
stainless steel fasteners? Pete?Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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