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Mine are held by cloth backed velcro and staples. Have to replace one
strip every once in a while, but otherwise it works fine.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Wed, May 28, 2014 at 9:33 AM, Silverheels wrote:
In Silverheels’ main salon Pearson used hard-backed
Velcro to hold the settee backrest cushions in place.
Does anyone know where to buy that hard-backed Velcro?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I also have steps on the main mast and would put them on the mizzen if I
ever get a wind charger.
I’ve gone up the mast several times to retrieve lost halyards, but not for
bridge clearance checks.
A lot easier (and safer IMO) than a bosun’s chair.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Thu, May 22, 2014 at 6:00 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Mast ladder steps are a definite plus for a host of
reasons. If Silverheels hadn’t come with them I
would’ve added them as I did on my previous cruising
boat.One advantage of being able to scoot up to the masthead
is this technique for judging bridge clearance: Get
eye level with the top of the mast and the bottom of
the bridge as you’re approaching (but still at a safe
distance for stopping). If the view of the other side
gets bigger, you’ll fit under the bridge. If it gets
smaller, you’ll hit the bridge.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor,
I guess I have to admit I plan to clean the interior teak twice a year, but
it actually gets done maybe once a year.
Like the others I don’t rinse after washing the teak. Just let it dry and
apply the oil. I normally use a soap that does not produce a lot of suds
like Pine Soil, Murphy’s or … just had another brain fart and can’t
remember the name of the stuff that advertises it doesn’t need a rinse.
These brain farts are becoming much too common.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Tue, May 13, 2014 at 1:57 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I rejoice to hear it! I’ll surely make a mess this
time, though, getting the teak “basically clean” for
the first time in (probably) 35 years. It’s part of
this summer’s “sprucing up,” and in fact just another
step in the Never-Ending Refit of the Good Ketch
Silverheels.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I clean (with bleach and soap) then oil twice a year or whenever there is a
mildew bloom on boardRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Tue, May 13, 2014 at 10:09 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Thanks, John. I’m definitely looking for an oil that
doesn’t darken the teak.How often do you oil your interior teak?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Old English Lemon wood oil because it is sold in grocery stores and it
doesn’t darken the teak.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Tue, May 13, 2014 at 8:26 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Murphy’s Oil Soap, since all my teak is finished.
Bob
On Tue, May 13, 2014 at 8:17 AM, Silverheels
wrote:What oil are you using on the teak belowdecks. Why?
Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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GRT and NRT refer to volume capacity of a ship not its mass or weight.
From Wikipedia: “*Gross tonnage* (often abbreviated as *GT*, *G.T.* or *gt*)
is a unitless index related to a ship’s overall internal volume. Gross
tonnage is different from gross register
tonnage
.[1] Neither gross
tonnage nor gross register tonnage is a measure of the ship’s displacement
(mass) and should not be confused with terms such as deadweight
tonnage
or displacement .
Gross tonnage, along with net
tonnage,
was defined by *The International Convention on Tonnage Measurement of
Ships, 1969*, adopted by the International Maritime Organization in 1969,
and came into force on July 18, 1982. These two measurements replaced gross
register tonnage (GRT) and net register
tonnage
(NRT). Gross tonnage is calculated based on “the moulded volume of all
enclosed spaces of the ship” and is used to determine things such as a
ship’s manning regulations, safety rules, registration fees, and port dues,
whereas the older gross register tonnage is a measure of the volume of
certain enclosed spaces.”I think the one place this value for a yacht will result in a fee is the
Panama Canal. When I worked in the CZ back in the 70s I remember the
highest and lowest fees were posted in the observation area of the
Miraflores lock. I don’t remember what ship was charged the max, but the
min was for a guy who swam the length of the canal.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Fri, May 9, 2014 at 6:29 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Silverheels’ Certificate of Documentation says 18 GRT
and 16 NRT. I’ve cleared into a score of countries in
the Caribbean and the Med, and while some forms ask for
one or both tonnages, none have ever charged a
tonnage-related fee. Occasionally there is a big price
jump for length, such as in the Bahamas over 35′ and in
Grenada over 40′.Tonnage fees might well apply to commercial shipping,
but not to yachts that I’ve ever seen.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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My understanding of the Echo (Xantrex) and Duo (Balmer) chargers is that
they are a battery to battery switch. They are connected between a source
battery and a destination battery. When the charger detects a charging
voltage (e.g., 13.3v) on the source the switch closes and allows a moderate
(e.g., 15A) charging current to the destination. They are one-way
switches Current cannot flow from the destination to the source.
I have a battery combiner (Blue Sea ACR) that works similarly, but it
connects a charging source (alternator) to two batteries. Initially only
one battery is connected to the charging source until that battery voltage
reaches 13.3v then the second the battery is added to the charging
circuit. The batteries are combined into one large battery for charging.
When the charging stops the switch opens and the batteries are again
isolated.
Most the marine electricians and installers seem to prefer the Echo/Duo
Charger solution.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Wed, May 7, 2014 at 6:56 PM, cbboat wrote:
Rich,
Echo charger splits off the incoming charge to the batteries that need it.
Don’t know how it works, PFM maybe!http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/auxiliary-battery-charger.aspx
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Craig,
I don’t see any problems with your plan. It is similar to my configuration
except I use 3 on/off switches in place of the1/2/Both and On/OIff switches
in your diagram and an ACR rather than an Echo Charger. I plan to replace
the ACR with an Echo or Duo Charger this year.
One recommendation is to put a 1/2/Both switch between your two banks of 6v
batteries. That way if one battery in one of the banks fails you can
isolate that bank and run your house loads on the good bank. You can do
the same thing by disconnecting the bank, but it is much easier to just
turn a switch, especially when you are trouble shooting to find the bad
bank. I just spent the winter in the Abacos with a bad battery (new Deka
from West Marine), and I was glad I had that switch.
With the Echo Charger feeding the Start bank, the feed from the AC Battery
Charger is probably redundant and may interfere with the battery charger.
My Xantrex charger shuts down if it detects another charging voltage on any
of the attached battery banks. With your configuration the battery charger
may detect the Echo Charger as another charging source. Your battery
charger may not have the same issue and the Echo Charger may shut down if
it detects another charging source on the Start battery, so it may not be a
problem. I’ve just started looking into Echo/Duo chargers and have no
experience with them.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Tue, May 6, 2014 at 9:21 PM, cbboat wrote:
Since my batteries are fried, I’ll redo the battery wiring when I replace
the batteries.Here is a diagram of my plan and a few questions.
Existing equipment: AC powered charger, Group 27 start battery,
alternator, starter, On/Off and 1-both-2-off switchesBatteries will be four US Battery US2200 XC 6v batteries @ 232 AH.
Two of them wired in series, the two pair wired parallel to total of 464AH.
Here is the diagram.1. Is this going to work?
2. What am I missing?
3. What meter do I need (current meter is analog volt meter). Will a
digital voltmeter connected to both banks suffice? I want to measure volts
coming out of alternator and I don’t know what I want to measure on the
house bank, any recommendations on amp/volt/AH meters?4. I suppose I need to have some kind of meter on the start battery to
keep an eye on that. meter that shows the voltage of the starter battery?5. When wiring alternator output directly to the house battery, does the
wire have to be wired directly to the battery’s positive terminal or can it
go through a bus bar, as shown in diagram? Same question for the echo
charger lead to the house bank. Dashed lines indicate input cable going
directly to the positive terminal, rather than through a bus bar.The diagram is drawn in normal operating position, where the 1-both-2-off
switch is on 1, connecting house bank with DC panel and ON/Off set for On
so starter pulls from starter battery.The diagram shows shunts for meters. If I have a volt meter connected to
the pos terminal, do I need a shunt? Should the voltmeter be connected to
the shunts?The alternator is wired to house and echo charger sends excess to starter.
110volt battery charger connected directly to both banks (starter and
house).If starter battery fails, I change the 1-both-2-Off switch to Both and use
house bank to start engine.If house bank fails, I change to 2 and use start for house (hope I don’t
do that accidentally!).Fuses: one on each positive battery cable, where else?
Thanks,
Craig[Image:
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Pat,
I posted to the survey. Couldn’t figure out how to register.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Sun, Apr 20, 2014 at 9:24 AM, pat noordsij wrote:
Hi folks…
Once again I am revisiting the website and would like your input. I’ve put
together a really short survey at: https://pearson424.org/tiki/
tiki-take_survey.php?surveyId=1I am leaning towards this format as it is easy to distribute management
and has a forum built in with email capability. After you look around –
let me know what you think about general format. Please take a moment to
give me your thoughts.If you want to register – please feel free
thanks
– pat
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Rich,
I have been using OpenCPN as my PC-based chart plotter for several years.
It works very well with the NOAA RNCs and nearly as well with the ENCs.
I’d buy one of the new AIS VHFs except my old ICOM M402 just won’t die.
I’m still amazed it took the radio manufacturers so long to add AIS. I
still have a SR161 AIS receiver which sends the NMEA sentences to my PC and
my dedicated chartplotter.
The big advantage of having AIS in the VHF is the ability to call another
vessel using its MMSI. AIS alone improved comms with the big ships by
providing the ability to call the ship using its name and call sign. Using
the MMSI to call the ship via DSC causes the radio on the bridge to ring
like a telephone. Much more difficult for the watch officer to ignore that
call.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Fri, Apr 18, 2014 at 2:08 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
I use it. Not bad. Takes some getting used to.
Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Apr 18, 2014 1:58 PM, wrote:I just bought a new VHF radio. It exports AIS and DSC position messages
to a compatible chartplotter. I thought I might upgrade my Nobeltec
chartplotting software but I came across a free package that looks good.
Has anyone used this?Rich
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Charlie,
I have a plastic Vetus muffler on my Yanmar (
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Cabin/20080214FrigCompressor.JPG). I
wouldn’t worry about the temperature and at least it will never corrode.
I suggest you give Vetus a call on your installation.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Apr 5, 2014 at 9:55 AM, cstewart wrote:
Thanks, John.
I looked at Vetus and wondered if the different models were capacity
sensitive. It appears that the different models only refers to hose sizes.
Question: if the Vetus is plastic, what happens to it the first time it
runs hot?
Has anyone replaced one of these and what did you use?
Charlie
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
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If you browse around the Vetus website (
http://www.vetus.com/exhaust-systems/waterlock-muffler.html) or catalog I
think you find the information you are looking for.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Apr 4, 2014 at 9:11 PM, cstewart wrote:
I have a busted/ rusted muffler that was spraying seawater in my bilge,
like a heavy pee stream. I sanded it and cleaned it and then put on a patch
of JD Weld putty, then wrapped that with a daisy chain of hose clamps that
went around the 10 inch diameter muffler. I sailed and motored 75 miles
today to get home and everything held together beautifully. But it is a
patch. Here is my delimia.
I don’t have a clue of what I need for a new muffler. Where do I start. Do
you just buy a new one at West or is it something special that has to match
the engine. It is the original W-60 with a SS welded can muffler.
Thanks for any ideas.
Charlie.
Sv/ OneEighty, hull 54
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
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Cada,
I did as Tor indicated others have done and cut an access hole in the
bulkhead aft of the water tank. Here is a link to what I had to do:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewWaterTankLeak.htmlI also have fiberglass tanks. Either a PO ground out the original tanks on
your boat and replaced them with aluminum, or yours is a very late model
and Pearson had switched the tank set up.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Apr 4, 2014 at 7:40 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Cada,I didn’t know any 424’s had aluminum water tanks.
Silverheels’ are integral fiberglass, so I can only
speak for this setup. The discharge hoses for both
tanks are at the aft lower inboard corners of the
tanks. Those hoses run directly to the freshwater
manifold beneath the galley sink (in my L-galley
layout). My access to those fittings is, as you
guessed, under the tanks’ screwed down plywood cover,
which I cut early on so I could remove just the aft
4-or-5″ to get into that narrow space between the tank
and its aft bulkhead. To run new hoses, though, I had
to stand with my feet in the deep bilge sump and wedge
my upper body underneath the cabin sole to reach and
lead the hoses. Good to get to know that under-sole
area in any case, with its plumbing and wire runs.I believe some smarter 424 owners have cut access
panels in each tank’s aft bulkhead to access those
water tank hose barbs, and to open up that wasted space
for storage. Not sure how that works on the port side
in a U-galley layout.Have fun!
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I’d go with another Groco, although the strainers I inherited on Sarah were
all Perkos. I replaced them with Grocos.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Mar 9, 2014 at 5:26 PM, sumocean wrote:
My strainer basket is gone on the Groco bronze strainer for the engine. I
see some corrosion particularly on the long threaded rod that holds the
glass in place. I have not yet found a drop in replacement for the basket,
now I am thinking of just replacing the whole unit ( it is over thirty
years old ). Do you guys have a suggestion or experience of which unit
should go in it’s place?Thanks
Linus
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Bill,
Here is a link to the P424 sail plan I put on my website:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Sail%20Plan%20Med.JPGIt is difficult to read as I had to scan the original plan in 8xs11
sections then piece them together. I believe Pat publish a clean image of
the plan on the P424 website. You might search there for it.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Mar 2, 2014 at 6:52 AM, wrote:
Thanks, Steve.
~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 3/1/2014 11:38:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:as well as any thoughts on weight, lofts, experiences, price,
etc., tks. I’m a ketch rig, btw..
BILL, in George Town._______________________________________________
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