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Jack Tyler's solution for that was to cur a small hole through the aft bulkhead and attach wood or metal bar to the valve lever. He says he can close the valve without opening the cockpit locker.
JOhn
On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 2:22 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Linus
I have the same problem and my butt's not getting any smaller these days. I hadn't thought of cutting an access hole, but that might be a good idea. The aft bulkhead is structural. I don't want to cut any holes near the hull, but a foot or so away should be OK. I could put something like a plexyglass mirror over the hole. It would make folks think I'm kinky though 😉Rich
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I'm back with you on the pressure vrs weight.
On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 11:32 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Thanks, Bob. Makes sense about the vent loop. Avoiding the run into the forward cabin lockers will make things a lot easier and help keep moisture out of those lockers.
The hydraulics issue I'll have to think about for awhile.John
On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 10:51 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi John,
No, you do need a loop, at least as high above the tank as the distance from the vent to the edge of the tank (so it doesn't siphon when heeled). You can meet the criteria by laying the vent across the tank, looping it back to the other side of the tank and then to the bilge. Just so water can't flow out when heeled at the maximum angle.
As far as the fill line and vent being filled above the tank, it doesn't matter whether you have a 1-1/2″ tube or a 1/2″ tube. The first law of hydraulics is that pressure in one point of a system is identical in all points of the system. The pressure applied to the tank has nothing to do with the volume of water – just the height of it. It's non-intuitive, but true.
Anyway, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Bob
On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 9:11 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Bob,
I assume you ran the vents directly to the bilge, with no loop to deck level. Sounds like a good idea. Even the original owners manual warned of over-filling the tanks and leaving water standing in the fill tube. I think the combined diameter of the fill (1.5″) and the vent (0.5″) tubes would produce more hydrostatic pressure than .5 lb/ft.
Thanks, for another project. While in the Bahamas there is no danger of me overfilling the tanks with $0.20/gallon water and watching it flow out through the bilge pump. I monitor the filling very closely to avoid that situation. Back in the states, with no additional charge for water at most marinas, I'm not always that careful.John
On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 8:00 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
That's a great idea, although it may leave loops or sags in the line.
I extended(replaced) mine to lead back to the aft bilge, where filling
the tanks helps keep it clean and smelling fresh.There is some discussion about venting to areas that are exposed to
seawater. And then there is the issue of tank pressure-the highest
point of the vent provides about 1/2 lb/ft, which translates to
pressure throughout the tank. The tanks don't look to sturdy to me…Bob
On 3/31/09, Syringa < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I don't like the settee water tanks dumping over flow water into the fwd
bilge. I have been thinking about rerouting the vent lines into the upper
anchor locker and letting them drain there. Any other ideas?
Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124/)+/)+~=:)
—
Sent from my mobile deviceBob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thanks, Bob. Makes sense about the vent loop. Avoiding the run into the forward cabin lockers will make things a lot easier and help keep moisture out of those lockers.
The hydraulics issue I'll have to think about for awhile.John
On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 10:51 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi John,
No, you do need a loop, at least as high above the tank as the distance from the vent to the edge of the tank (so it doesn't siphon when heeled). You can meet the criteria by laying the vent across the tank, looping it back to the other side of the tank and then to the bilge. Just so water can't flow out when heeled at the maximum angle.
As far as the fill line and vent being filled above the tank, it doesn't matter whether you have a 1-1/2″ tube or a 1/2″ tube. The first law of hydraulics is that pressure in one point of a system is identical in all points of the system. The pressure applied to the tank has nothing to do with the volume of water – just the height of it. It's non-intuitive, but true.
Anyway, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Bob
On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 9:11 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Bob,
I assume you ran the vents directly to the bilge, with no loop to deck level. Sounds like a good idea. Even the original owners manual warned of over-filling the tanks and leaving water standing in the fill tube. I think the combined diameter of the fill (1.5″) and the vent (0.5″) tubes would produce more hydrostatic pressure than .5 lb/ft.
Thanks, for another project. While in the Bahamas there is no danger of me overfilling the tanks with $0.20/gallon water and watching it flow out through the bilge pump. I monitor the filling very closely to avoid that situation. Back in the states, with no additional charge for water at most marinas, I'm not always that careful.John
On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 8:00 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
That's a great idea, although it may leave loops or sags in the line.
I extended(replaced) mine to lead back to the aft bilge, where filling
the tanks helps keep it clean and smelling fresh.There is some discussion about venting to areas that are exposed to
seawater. And then there is the issue of tank pressure-the highest
point of the vent provides about 1/2 lb/ft, which translates to
pressure throughout the tank. The tanks don't look to sturdy to me…Bob
On 3/31/09, Syringa < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I don't like the settee water tanks dumping over flow water into the fwd
bilge. I have been thinking about rerouting the vent lines into the upper
anchor locker and letting them drain there. Any other ideas?
Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124/)+/)+~=:)
—
Sent from my mobile deviceBob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
John,
When I sailed to Bermuda in 2001 I got coverage from Boat/US, but not without a lot of hassle similar to what you appear to be getting. I was lucky, I had a friend in the underwriting department at Boat/US who went to the VP for me and got me the coverage. For the trip they raised my deductible and charged me some additional premium, the amount of which I no longer remember.
The issues with Boat/US sound like the same as you are experiencing. Although I had crewed 2 races to Bermuda, none of my crew had significant off-shore experience, but years of coastal cruising experience. If my friend had not intervened, Boat/US would have denied coverage.Since then I've used IMIS. IMIS has never asked for crew experience, actually they insure me for single-handed passages of up to 24 hours. Of course IMIS is not cheap, my annual premium for coverage to the Bahamas is about $2K, which is pretty much the same cost as the coverage they provided for an ocean crossing in 2007.
John
On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 9:19 AM, Indulgence < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hello,
I am looking into insurance for my planned trip to Bermuda this spring. My current insurance is primary coastal and limits me to New England and does not currently cover offshore, Bermuda or Bahamas.
In my initial conversation with the insurance company, they expressed some concerns that none of the crew has Bermuda experience.
While I have no offshore experience, I do have a 50 Ton Masters License with a sailing endorsement. Are all the insurance companies going to require that I include someone with offshore experience? Do I need to add “an insurance stooge” as part of the crew in order to get insurance?
I am interested in what others have done for their offshore insurance.
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob,
I assume you ran the vents directly to the bilge, with no loop to deck level. Sounds like a good idea. Even the original owners manual warned of over-filling the tanks and leaving water standing in the fill tube. I think the combined diameter of the fill (1.5″) and the vent (0.5″) tubes would produce more hydrostatic pressure than .5 lb/ft.
Thanks, for another project. While in the Bahamas there is no danger of me overfilling the tanks with $0.20/gallon water and watching it flow out through the bilge pump. I monitor the filling very closely to avoid that situation. Back in the states, with no additional charge for water at most marinas, I'm not always that careful.John
On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 8:00 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
That's a great idea, although it may leave loops or sags in the line.
I extended(replaced) mine to lead back to the aft bilge, where filling
the tanks helps keep it clean and smelling fresh.There is some discussion about venting to areas that are exposed to
seawater. And then there is the issue of tank pressure-the highest
point of the vent provides about 1/2 lb/ft, which translates to
pressure throughout the tank. The tanks don't look to sturdy to me…Bob
On 3/31/09, Syringa < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I don't like the settee water tanks dumping over flow water into the fwd
bilge. I have been thinking about rerouting the vent lines into the upper
anchor locker and letting them drain there. Any other ideas?
Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124/)+/)+~=:)
—
Sent from my mobile deviceBob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Jim,
RE: The monitor installation. I recommend putting backing plates on the mounts. The Monitor doesn't put much stress on the transom during normal operation. Maybe when the oar swings out to the stops there may be some pressure on the mounts, but I don't think it stresses the transom very much. However backing plates are easy to install and give you a little more margin for error should the oar strike some hard and immovable object.
RE: The forward bulkhead, I'll let those who have dug into this part of the boat make their recommendations. You say the there is separation, where is the separation?John
On Mon, Mar 30, 2009 at 3:03 PM, james bartch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Aloha All
I wanted to follow up on tors questions regarding wind vanes. We also have a monitor and i finally got down in the transom and found that it is only backed with some large finders washers. I found that my transom was similar in making the (somewhat flimshy) pounding noise as tor is getting. The monitor has been on the vessel since 05 or 06 and appears to be lightly used. I did not see any singns of fatique from the mounting locations but was thinking it might not be a bad idea to add some backing plates at the connections to spread the load (something like 6″ round Aluminum w/5200 or so). My installion looks pretty clean and simple but as i said the wind vane blades look lightly used… do you see the need?
I also have to address the issue of the typical delamination/cracking at the forward bulkhead and it appears that the old pounding in the seaway has taken effect.
the seperation of the bulkhead appear to be minimal and is only tagged in on both sides of the port and starboard hulls and stops at the sole plate. i see that the sole plate runs under the bulkhead (past the bulkhead with the drawers) and continues to the forward bulkhead near the water tank and i have no signs of fatique at the forward bulkhead.
so… my question is, should i consider tagging in the sole plate and the bulkhead to stiffen the whole area??? The sole plate appears to be resting on a small rib for support but is not tagged in ( i can slide a putty knife between the sole and the hull (accessed from the bilge) it appear to be floating on the rib? or follow the old addage “if it anit broke, dont fix it” in this case tag it back in the same way as the the pearson guys did???
if i do as they did i only have to grind out an area about 12″ long on both sides from the sole plate up to complete the repairs. and be done with!
please reply,
i am courious what others ahve done in this area.
Jim Vessel – Island Muse
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Alan,
BTW, the only problem I encountered with this installation is when sailing down wind in rain. That requires the hatch boards to be in place. Of course the hatch boards Pearson supplied are wood, not the best for viewing the radar unless you have Superman vision. I had a clear plastic hatch board (1 piece) fabricated and it works great. I also get more light in the aft cabin when the hatch board is in place. The only remaining problem is having to remove the hatch board temporarily to fiddle with the display. No solutioni is perfect.
JohnOn Fri, Mar 27, 2009 at 11:11 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Alan,
I've done that on Silver Heels. I included a mid-swing stop in the bracket so the radar screen can optionally face towards the captain's berth across the cabin, allowing me to see what's around without getting out of bed. Also a loud, external piezo beeper from Radio Shack to wake me up for sure when the perimeter alarm sounds. Will send photos & details later today.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
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Alan,
Sorry, I didn't address how it is mounted. Just wood screws into the plywood. Unless you went out and purchase a 1970's radar CRT, the weight of the display doesn't require a very robust mounting. Vibration and swinging of the arm has loosened the screws in my mount over time, but it only takes a second with a screw driver to tighten them – every couple of years when I notice a little wobble.
JohnOn Fri, Mar 27, 2009 at 10:48 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Alan,
Besides the two wood strips, nothing, really. Make sure you use a big backing plate or some hefty fender washers.
BOb
On Fri, Mar 27, 2009 at 10:27 AM, Alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I want to install my Radar display so that it can swing out into the companionway when needed. I will need to mount some kind of swing arm to the bulkhead that is in the Nav Station.
As anyone done this? What is behind the teak paneling?
alan—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Alan,
I purchased my swing arm at WM. I think it is still in the catalogue, but I couldn't find it online (finding things in the WM online catelogue is not always easy).
Here's a link to a picture my mount:
On Fri, Mar 27, 2009 at 10:27 AM, Alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:I want to install my Radar display so that it can swing out into the companionway when needed. I will need to mount some kind of swing arm to the bulkhead that is in the Nav Station.
As anyone done this? What is behind the teak paneling?
alan—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob,
I pretty much agree with your POV, none of us should be complaining too much as these V-drives seem to outlast the engines and transmissions they are hooked to. Granted the V-Drive doesn't do much so it should have a long life. Manufacturers make many business decisions that to us on the outside don't seem to make sense, but unless you are involved in the industry and have an understanding of the financial and technical issues of the company its hard to say they've made the wrong decision.
There is one point you made which I do believe is short-sighted on the manufacturers part: “They don't build new models thinking of our boats, nor should they.”
Maybe they should. Walter and other suppliers to the boat industry tend to view their customer base as the boat manufacturers. That seems to be a pretty narrow view considering there are now only a handful of boat builders in the USA and probably few of them are using V-Drives. However, there are several thousands boats out there with V-Drives that were manufactured during the 70s and 80s and probably 25% (my guess) are well enough maintained by their owners to warrant a replacement. If Walter could supply a replacement on the same form factor they might be able to churn that market for couple of years of production run. Instead the owners are faced with some level of re-engineering the installation, which makes the replacement significantly more expensive and complicated (I don't really know what is involved). This drives a lot of owners to do many of the things that have been discussed on this forum to keep these V-drives working – few of which put any money in the Walter coffers.
Walter doesn't really have any competition in this niche market so I understand why they may not have a broader focus on their customer base, but I still believe it is short-sighted.
For me the prime example of this short-sightedness is Bomar, who in the 70s owned the hatch and portlight market in the US and a big chunck of Europe as well. I had the same clunky cast aluminum hatches on my previous boat as I inheirited on the 424. When I wanted to replace the hatch on my previous boat, which was cracked I first turned to Bomar. They had a really nice looking line of hatches from which I would have purchased a replacement (not the clunky ones), but their new hatches had a very different form factor. I didn't want to make a major modification to the boat, so Lewmar which made a drop-in replacement for the Bomar hatch got my business. 15 years later I wanted to replace the hatches on Sarah and Bomar still did not have a drop-in replacement (except the same klunky things), so Lewmar got a few more of my boat units and Bomar got nothing. Today of course Lewmar owns the hatch and portlight business in the way Bomar used to and Bomar is now a niche player. I'm sure there were many reasons for that change, not just my purchase decisions, but I believe Bomar blew it by not paying attention to their own customer base.
There, I got that off my chest. You'll hear nothing further from me on this subject.
JohnOn Thu, Mar 26, 2009 at 2:32 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Rich,I think you are being way too hard on Walter. You must understand that the installation of that drive in our boats is like nothing to them – they play with the big boys who put great gobs of power into these things. If you doubt the durability, check in with the C&C people who had crappy little v-drives and see what they have to say. To last 30 years is well beyond what most machinery lasts, and frankly longer than many engines last. Tell me, how many 30 year old abused cars or car transmissions do you have?
For a grand total of possibly 238 boat owners, I don't expect Walter to make changes. At this point, I'm surprised they even can rebuild these things, let alone sell us parts (except the case). They don't build new models thinking of our boats, nor should they. If their current model needs a different mounting then it's to be expected. It's 30 years on!
If it cost $650 to rebuild and $1200 new, I'd go for new. And if you don't think it's fair to change sizes or bolt patterns or whatever, remember, they improve their products over the decades. They have to because the market changes.
Also, if you don't think it needs cooling, it may very well not in our situation. But they're the manufacturer and it was designed for cooling and they'd be simpletons to say you don't need it. Then when some idiot runs 1000 horsepower through it for a couple of hours without cooling and it burns up, what do you think he's going to say? Yup, you guessed it: “Hey, you said it was alright for the Pearson group!”
Let's face it, there is relatively little you can change in a v-drive. It's a simple, well known, well engineered piece of kit and there is very little room for improvement. There is clearly nothing wrong with the drives – they perform to spec, they last decades in an hostile environment (let's have a vote – how many of us have even bothered to open the drive? How many of us check the temperature? How many of us change the oil once a year?). And yet, it performs. It's a good piece of machinery and it does its job. You may not be happy, but I'm not happy cars don't have a separate vent window, or about any other number of engineering changes over the last 30 years.
Bob
On Wed, Mar 25, 2009 at 11:44 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I know, we do this to ourselves. We fail to innovate, building the same junk we made decades ago. Then some innovative foreign company cleans our clocks. Sounds like Detroit. Idiots! Its not like the customer base didn't tell them. I get a strong feeling that Walter will do nothing.Rich
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Tor,
Portual was 33% (2007). Sounds like I need to get a cute dog.As I mentioned, the 45% duty does not appear to show up on parts ordered through authorized dealers in the Bahamas. So either the Government is trying force cruisers to use the local folks rather than have friends bring parts in or the Government has not figured out how to impose the duty on their local businesses. Given it's the Bahamas, I suspect the later.
John
On Wed, Mar 25, 2009 at 3:43 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John,
Life in the slow lane. I guess I should have added that at first some butch female junior customs officer at that Athens airport said she'd have to quarantine my boat gear until the next day for “proper clearance” or some such nonsense. It would have meant missing my connecting flight to Lefkada Island, where my boat was dry-docked, plus some equivalent of your tedious, expensive, time-consuming experience in Portugal. Well, I happened to have a little dog with me, a 10-lb mutt I'd found starving on the streets of Seville ( http://www.tor.cc/articles/rosa.htm ) who wound up sailing with me when I headed into the Med. She was scampering around the airport terminal wagging and making friends with everyone, as was her way, as glad as I that the very long flight from JFK was over. About then the airport's head customs honcho came over to see why this tourist was arguing with his bitchy junior agent. My dog, Rosa, ran up to him with such open friendliness that he automatically squatted down and began petting her. “Is this your dog,” he asked me. Oh, shit, I thought. Here we go. Yes, she's my dog. He looked into the now open crate of boat gear, glanced at my papers, and asked, “Is everything in here for your boat?” Yes, it's all for the boat. “OK,” he smiled, scratching Rosa behind her ear, “you're clear to go. Welcome back to Greece.”
So, it could've been another frustrating tale of bureaucratic woes like yours, only that time I was saved by a dog.
I guess you're right. There are obstacles to cruising bliss everywhere. Still, 45% is just plain extortion.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
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Tor,
You may find things have changed in Greece if you ever get back there. Although you can still import parts for a yacht in-transit duty-free in the EU I think you will find it not that easy. All these countries are as desperate for revenue as the Bahamas, and they will presume you owe duty on the items unless you are willing to spend the better part of a day at the import point (normally a International airport). At least that was my experience in Portugal.
Somewhere on my website I think I recount my adventure trying to get a repaired electronics part shipped to me in Portugal. I did finally get it through customs for a E1.25 administration fee, but it took a rental car for the day and about 4 hours in the Customs Office at the Faro Airport. Then when I finally got everything cleared I was charged E7.00 per day storage for something about 1/2 the size of a shoe box. I had waited a week to go to Faro so I could use the car for other planned trips so the total storage charge was E49. Again this was for a repaired item not a new purchase part. After that I just had the parts shipped to the Marina and paid the duty. It was cheaper and easier.IMHO, no matter what country you cruise to the Customs Agent is not going to be your friend. At least the Bahamas (and most other countries) don't have anything called Homeland Security. Now there's a really nasty bureaucracy.
John
On Wed, Mar 25, 2009 at 12:30 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John,
I'm sorry to hear that the Bahamas charges import duty on parts destined for a vessel in transit, and such a huge percentage, too. Shame on them, the money-grubbers! Civilized countries around the world have always traditionally permitted foreign vessels in transit to import parts and equipment necessary for the maintenance and operation of the vessel, duty-free. I've done it myself in a variety of countries on three continents. I once brought an enormous crate-full of stuff, several thousand dollars-worth, from the US back to my boat in Greece, right though Athens airport customs with their blessing. Just showed them my boat's entry papers. That the Bahamas sees fit to flaunt this time-honored international courtesy shared between civilized nations is a black mark against them in my book. No doubt they see it as just another way to squeeze money out of Those Rich Americans. Because they can.
Forty-five percent duty on imported parts, $300 for a cruising permit, and I'm sure there's more. Personally, I'll bypass the Bahamas entirely when I head for the West Indies.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thanks, Quent, for the offer to bring parts. Unfortunately the Bahamas Customs appear to be very serious about collecting 45% duty on all boat parts. You will be asked if you are carrying any parts on your return to the Bahamas when they see you are coming back to your boat. I don't think the Cruising Permit allows the importation of boat parts.
Not worth it to try to sneak them through. A friend, who joined me last month, was asked about boat parts when he went through customs in MH. Fortunately he was only bringing me cigars.
The customs duty does not appear to apply to Bahamas businesses. Anyway the previous parts I ordered through a Nassau NL dealer did not appear to have that much mark up, just additional shipping charges.
John
On Wed, Mar 25, 2009 at 11:02 AM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi John-
We visited MH once, but didn't see you there. Mostly we have been on a friend's mooring in Man-O-War. Clairebuoyant is there getting a bottom job. We are home doing taxes, will be back on 4/9, plan on sailing north in mid-May after spending a few weeks in Abacos. I doubt we will get any further down island this year.
Sorry to hear about the genset problem. Can we bring you anything from stateside? We will fly to MH via Cherokee Air on 4/9. We have a cruising permit.
Best regards,
Quent—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Quent,
If that was the reg in 1978, then Pearson clearly did not follow the standard. For example the deck drain outboard of the head terminates in a non-valved through hull under the sink.BTW, where are you guys? I was out sailing around the Sea of Abaco a few weeks ago and I heard another boat trying to call you. Someone came back saying you were anchored in MH, but were off the boat. I tried to call you a couple of times on VHF, but no response. Not surprising the chatter on chan 16 here is worse than in Annapolis. By the time I got back to MH a few days later you were gone. I assume you beat feet south. Are you coming back this way? I'll be here for at least another week, maybe three. Genset is out again, waiting to see if I can get the part or have to order a whole new junction box. I think I've paid for 2 Sonys by now.
Also waiting to see if I'll have crew for the return trip.
John
On Wed, Mar 25, 2009 at 10:22 AM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Bob-
Perhaps ABYC changed that standard in recent years. My July 2002 copy defines Maximum Heeled Waterline on a sailboat as “…the level of the sheer amidships.” H-27.4b. This required a seacock.
A local surveyor I worked with always wrote this up, but it has been a while.
Quent—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
So that's what they are called. I bought a bunch of those PYI fasteners about 8 years ago. Never installed them on the hatches as planned. Thought I would use them when I copy some of the hatches Bob has installed. Glad to see there is another source for them.
Of course mine are “Marine Quality” and I even have the tapered drill bit, specially made for these fasteners (top of pic). Gotta be a good deal.
John
On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 10:15 AM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
These are basically a new version of Dzus fasteners but wildly over-priced.
Robert Fine wrote:
Oops, no they're not – they used to be $40 each. Now a more reasonable $14.00 each for 1/2″ – 3/4″, more for 1-1/4″ – 1-1/2″. Come in kits, too.
On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 9:59 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])
Here's the things I was thinking of using, except, of course, they
are so expensive as to be prohibitive:http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=panel_anchor&action=floor-anchors&sn=2
<http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=panel_anchor&action=floor-anchors&sn=2>Bob
— Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
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John Stevenson
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