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Patrick,
I think the reason for the below or at waterline thru-hulls for the drains is aesthetics. If the thru-hull is well above the water line you will get a lot of dirt streaks on the hull. Bob Fine mentioned is was going to eliminate those seacocks for the deck drains in an earlier thread. He's willing to live with the streaks and/or the effort to keep the hull clean.John
On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 1:53 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I wonder why they didn't do that to begin with? Is there something special about the length of the drop and ability to then pass water quickly?
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
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An interesting thing I was told by a Fein sales rep is that the vibrating tool was originally developed for the medical industry as a cast cutter. The vibrator will cut through the cast but not cut skin. It will not cut anything that is soft only hard stuff.
My last broken bone was over 55 years ago, long before these tools were available. i seem to remember cutting the cast then was a little scary.
John
On Sun, Mar 22, 2009 at 2:43 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:The Dremel Multimax is a tool that vibrates back and forth around the axis of the tool. Think a right angle grinder but instead of circular motion, it's back and forth. It comes with three blades – one that you can use to cut wood, for instance, in the corners of the cutout like I made. A circular saw will leave some wood in the corners as you know. This tool will cut those pieces out nicely. It's real purpose is for removing boards from a wood floor – you use this to cut the boards across and to remove the tongue so that it pops out.It also has a triangular sanding do-dah, and a vibrating scraper. You can get a blade that removes grout, too. It's $99. The Fein tool is $279.
Anyway, it's something you'l use once in a very great while, unless you're going to open up your cabin sole like I did -then it's worth the money.
Bob
On Sun, Mar 22, 2009 at 2:18 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thanks, but I suspect you've got plenty of hippity hopping to do around your own boat.
I have a Dremel tool – don't know how I ever lived without it. What does the Dremel Multi-Max tool do (and why do I expect finding out is going to cost me the price of one)?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Tor,
I don't think it is an issue for most servo-pendulum vanes, such as my Monitor. The mounts for my Monitor are backed by 6″ square x 1/2″ thick Starboard pieces (had them as scraps on board when installing) along with the largest fender washers I could find. Used the vanes on two Atlantic crossings. Coming back we had nearly a week of gale force winds and seas > 8'. No signs of crazing or cracking. I do have crazing where the PO installed a boarding ladder on the transom, so I know the transom is not real strong. Ladder has been removed.I think the only way a servo-pendulum vane could crack the transom if the vane oar is hit something solid at good speed. I think whatever that might be would have taken out the rudder first so the vane and the transom would be the least of my worries.
With the Auxiliary rudder type vanes I would definitely beef up the transom. That's one of the reasons I went servo-pendulum and did not purchase the Monitor rudder feature (forget what Hans calls it).
All that said, it sure wouldn't hurt to beef up the transom in the area of the mounts.
John
On Sun, Mar 22, 2009 at 3:04 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thanks, Bob. I think I get the idea. In any case, it doesn't apply to the vane I'm installing.
Still hoping to hear from others with windvanes on 424's regarding signs of stress on the transom. Maybe it's a non-issue, but there's nothing like a few thousand nautical miles to make it a certainty.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks, Bob.
Did you screw up your courage to make the cuts this time or did you have your buddy do it.John
On Sun, Mar 22, 2009 at 10:24 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Your wish is my command! Realize I haven't framed out the hatch to match the others, put the bungs in the holes or routed out for the latches. That's a project for another day when I get a pattern router bit.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
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John Stevenson
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Bob,
Pics? We always want pics.John
On Sun, Mar 22, 2009 at 8:45 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Yesterday I created a new access hatch in the cabin sole to the shafts and stuffing box. It's not finished (need to add trim and latches), but it will give me tremendous access when I put in the shaft generator.
Pictures if anyone wants…
Bob
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Bob Fine
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Hull #8—
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John Stevenson
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I also appreciate Walters offering their labor rates the cost of the parts kits to our members. I know if (when) I need a rebuild on my unit I will do my utmost to deal with them directly.
Tor (and Rich) is correct in his assessment of the cost, if you use a yard to as your interface to Walters. I had my V-drive rebuilt in 2000 through the local yard/dealer in Solomons, MD. The cost after paying the yard to de-install, ship, and re-install was about $1,200. Now I know better.
John
On Thu, Mar 19, 2009 at 8:16 PM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
DonC:
Thank you for your feedback–I boat on Long Island,NY, and can easily remove the vdrive and bring it to your location. I am glad I know of this option now and that the cost is moderate. I will now plan on bringing the unit in next fall after this season.
Rodd Leeds
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John Stevenson
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Yes, the aft berth is pretty close to a full size commercial bed (used to be called a double). I use standard full-size fitted and flat sheets on the berth. The fitted sheets are a little loose at the foot, but fit tight at the head.
John
On Wed, Mar 18, 2009 at 7:43 PM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I think that Bill Tice from Charisma told me that he uses a Temper Pedic foam mattress in the aft berth. He said that it is not hot like I thought it might be. I asked the mattress inspector that frequents the bar about the foam and he said that changes in temperature cause dramatic changes in the foam's softness. Yes he is a mattress inspector for the state. There is an expert in every field hanging out at the bar. I think that Bill said the full size fit with no alterations.
Linus<.. snip>
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Before I moved onboard I had HMC make a mattress for the aft berth. It is 7″ of latex foam with a standard mattress cover. It was expensive, nearly a full boat unit, but it is the most comfortable bed I've ever slept on – afloat or ashore. So I have no regrets on the expense.
Bob, if you have your friend make a custom mattress for you I recommend you have him put a hinge in the head of the mattress as HMC did for me. I know you now have access to the under berth locker through the former drawers, but it is still convenient to be able to get to that locker through the top. With a hinge, I just flip the head of the bed over and I have access. Normally this doesn't even mess up the sheets and blankets. The hinge also gives access to the locker at the foot of the bed when I slide the mattress forward. Still have to pick up the mattress to get access to the middle locker. I was worried that this hinge would be a weak point in the mattress construction. So far, after nearly six years of use, the hinge has held up.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeCabin.htm
Scroll down on the URL above about 2/3 of the page for the Aft Cabin Mattress pics.John
On Tue, Mar 17, 2009 at 12:32 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:No, no, he'll make it in Suffern, NY where his factory is. I'm leaving for England for a week to see family. I couldn't get across with the crappy foam I have… He will ship and I'll ask him if he's interested in shipping a duplicate to you and how much it will cost. My trip will be the last week of April while the boat's on the hard getting some fiberglass work done.Bob
On Tue, Mar 17, 2009 at 10:38 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I take it your friend makes these mattresses in England. Do you mean you'll get yours over there when you eventually sail your boat across, or is your “visit” more imminent? Will the guy ship? Are these things uncommonly expensive? I ask because I'm due for a new aft cabin mattress. The Froli support helps, but it doesn't make up for dead foam.
Tor
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http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Rich,
Obviously you are starting from different fixture than I did. What I inherited from the PO was a standard Tempo galley faucet mounted in the shower wall. It was mounted on a piece of Teak so I assume it was installed by a PO and not what Pearson installed.I'm not sure what sort of shut-off valve you have on your faucet, but the single lever mixer works well in that you can turn it on and off without changing the mixer setting. I also have a shut-off valve on the shower head, but I only use it when I'm holding the shower head in my hand.
John
On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 4:47 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Linus
Thanks for the info. I somehow thought the shutoff was specific to boats and RVs. I'd like to replace the shower head too; its a piece of junk too. I'll take a look at what's available when I go to the home store. I'll probably put in a drain plug somewhere below the shower valve to make sure it drains when I winterize.Rich
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Rich,
RE: The shower faucet.I, and several others, just went to Lowes/Home Depot and picked up a single-level shower mixer just like most of have (had in my case) in our home showers. It's a lot more convenient to be able to quickly set the mixer for the correct water temperature.
John
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeHead.htmOn Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 2:42 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Rich,
My shower sump pump is actually under the galley sink – there is no sump, except of course, the shower itself. That said, I don't know if you have dual (hot and cold) faucets or a single operating one. If it's the original dual, the company is still in business and still produces that particular setup, with newer handles, but charges a gadzillion dollars for it. The reason is that the holes are not standard 4″ centers. Does that matter? Not to me, it didn't, as I own a hole saw of the appropriate size and made them 4″ centers. Then I installed a similar yet ever so much cheaper shower thing from Home Depot.
What I'd like to do is install a constant temperature fitting because I'm tired of either burning myself or sending myself into hypothermia. If you want to go that route, just make sure the cover plate is big enough.
Also:
I cut a 5″ round access plate hatch below the seat. You can't reach anything under there from the hatch and it is where John S. and I lost the cutout when we put our hatches in. There is enough room below the seat for a low pump.
Bob
On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 2:23 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I bought an access hatch on clearance for the unused area outboard of the shower about 20 years ago. The thing has been sitting in my shed since then. Like so many other projects, if its not broken it doesn't get fixed. There was nothing wrong with the shower, so it stayed on the to-do list until last weekend. The shower sump motor failed last fall. The thing was mounted in the bilge. It doesn't like the damp air down there and I've had problems with the pump for a few years now. I pulled the pump again this winter and fixed the motor (again). Rather than put the darn thing back in the bilge, I decided to mount it behind the shower in that unused space. I pulled the 11″x13″ hatch from the shed. I took a circular saw and a sawsall and cut the hole in the shower wall. There's a huge amount of space behind there. Its not as deep as the forward hanging locker. Its more than half that deep and about the same width. If you want to get an idea of the size, open the forward hanging locker and take a look. I plan to put a lower shelf in for the pump body and two more shelves for towels or whatever. Pictures will follow.
While I have my head in there, its a good time to replace the shower faucet. Like everybody else, Pearson used a cheap plastic faucet. While I like the shutoff valve on the head, I don't like the plastic vavle. The surface is pitted. Has anyone found a suitable replacement that is cost effective?
Rich
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
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John Stevenson
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Short machine screws is what I've used in the past.
John
On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 1:21 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Tor:
This same topic was discussed around this time last year on the SSCA site. In addition to the JB Weld you have used, other options mentioned were aluminum pop rivets, Marine Tex, or tapping (not required in your case) and inserting short machine screws.
http://ssca.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5960&hilit=mast+holes
Paul
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John Stevenson
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Thanks, Thatcher.
Looking forward to those pics in May. That's about the time I'll be back in the states and ready for a few more boat projects.John
2009/3/16 Silver Heels < ([email][/email])>
Quote:Thatcher,
I'd like to see those photos, too, when the time comes.
Thanks,
Tor
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http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thatcher,
Got any pics, I'm having a difficult time seeing your solution in my mind (happens alot these days). Sounds like you may have the solution.John
On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 12:12 AM, Thatcher Stone < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hi Bob:-
I have never had this problem with my plywood and cushions. The plywood stays in until you put a finger in and lift it out. The cushions are attached with Velcro to the wood. Sides and bottoms. Have had the boat almost 50 degrees in heel and never lost one.
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Lee clothes hold my seat cushions in place. Velcro is still a good idea, but my cushions don't have a top or bottom. Every year I switch them between port & starboard to prevent the foam and material from taking a set. I could put velcro on the outboard edges, but then then it would be difficult to free the cushions.
Why isn't any of this easy?
Still looking for the perfect solution for the seat back cushions. May take a re-design of the backs so they can be quickly locked in place and released.
Of course nothing will really solve the problem of windward locker that has been shaken, not stirred, and then must be opened.
John
On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 5:16 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I was planning on adding some cargo netting, maybe 2 inch square openings. Permanently attach it on the inside bottom and attach the top on the inside with hooks or perhaps closures like the ones used on sunbrella. You could reach in through the openings to unhook or open them. You would only need to have the up when offshore, just like your lee cloths.
Paul
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John Stevenson
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Tor, Bob,
Again the same situation, just velcro holding the settee backs in place. I haven't done anything about and haven't had a problem as yet. However, I've never taken a knock down in this boat. With normal heeling (15 degrees) there hasn't been a problem. Most of the stuff in these lockers is either in containers or is light weight so they are contained somewhat by the plywood settee back.I would have done something about the lockers, but as yet I haven't come up with a good solution. I don't want to give up the convenience of being get to these lockers quickly. I don't want to turn them into the equivalent of under berth lockers. I use these lockers mostly for food items.
I've looked for elastic netting that could be attached to the inside of the opening, then just pulled down to gain access, but I haven't found anything.
So far no problems, but I know it is a cabin mess just waiting to happen. I do replace the velcro often. The velcro is actually pretty strong.
Hope someone does come up with a solution.
John
2009/3/14 Silver Heels < ([email][/email])>
Quote:My boat has no covering over those storage locker apertures outboard of the salon settees other than the plywood-backed cushions, which are held there by Velcro. I don't think they're going to stay put once I start sailing, and I know the settee bottom cushions slide out onto the cabin sole when the boat's heeled. It's something I'll obviously have to remedy very soon. Like Bob, I'd be interested in what others have done.Tor
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