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Pete,
Great find. Does it suspend over the sink or fit down into the sink? I've been using a Polmar (?) drainer that fits over the sink with expandable legs, but it is very narrow. Sounds like I need to make a trip to Walmart when I get back to the states.John
On Fri, Apr 17, 2009 at 9:42 AM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-Manufacturing-Inc-43511-Drainer/dp/B000BUOSGG
Pete Dubler wrote:
For years I have been seeking a dish draining rack to fit in the 424 galley sink. I have carried the dimensions of my rotted and cracked one around in my PDA forever. Yesterday the perfect one jumped off the shelf at Walmart and into my basket. If you need one, look in the aisle with the RV (motorhome) stuff, in the auto department. It is called a “mini-dish drainer” by Camco #27409. Now here is the trick, if half you go out and buy one today, Walmart will overstock and the other half will be able to buy the excess on clearance at the end of the summer ;^)
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Jeez, Tor. Now you've really done it. You've completely destroyed the aerodynamic shape of the keel Just think of the disturbed water flow on the bottom of the keel You'll probably have to put an end plate on the keel to reduce the vortex drag.
Neat idea and implementation. My only caveat is I would like someway to insure that plug doesn't start working its way out. Have you planned anything in that manner, other than some loctite and torquing the plug down with long socket wrench?
John
On Mon, Apr 13, 2009 at 4:45 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:In case anyone is interested, I did try to ask Perko if their “bronze” garboard drain plug fitting is indeed made from cheap Asian scraps, and why they sell this fitting with a brass plug. I got some bored secretary who said she'd have someone call me back.
Well, that never happened, so I called Groco, who also makes a bronze garboard drain plug. I immediately got a smart, interested engineer on the phone who explained they have those fittings made to their specs in China, that Groco regularly lab-tests the stuff the Chinese shop ships them to ensure consistent quality, and that as a result the fittings are absolutely, definitely 100% silicon bronze made to Groco specs, including the plug. So, how much do they charge for this marvel of modern multi-national manufacturing? $9.00! Guess what I bought for my installation. Even though the packing & shipping charge doubled the price, it was still less than West Marine's Perko shot-in-the-dark.
Here are three photos of the installation in progress. On the inside, the drain hole is located near the farthest lower starboard forward corner of the deep bilge sump. There is 1-1/8″ of solid fiberglass there, so I was able to recess the piece inside and out. When the 4200 bedding compound is dry, I'll cover the outer flange with thickened epoxy and then bottom pain so that only the plug remains visible.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Paul,
I'm still in the Abacos and Quent & Claire have returned to Clairebouyant in Man O'War. Others may have already departed for the states.John
On Mon, Apr 13, 2009 at 2:27 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I am heading down to Georgetown tomorrow to meet up with Walter on s/v Maddness (Hull #1). We are going to travel up through the Exumas and possibly the Abacos before going offshore up to Boston (possibly with a stop in Beaufort or elsewhere, as weather dictates).
I was curious if any other 424's still in the Bahamas that we may meet up with along the way.
Paul—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob,
Still sounds to me like a solution looking for a problem, but then again that's why we don't all have the same onboard equipment.John
On Mon, Apr 13, 2009 at 10:58 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I'm sorry, John, but the luxury of a freshwater shower in the cockpit wherein you can wash yourself, the seats, your dive gear and if you are so inclined, your significant other is just too much to relegate to the shower…
Bob
On Mon, Apr 13, 2009 at 10:54 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Or…. use the shower stall, that's what it's there for. So you track a little water from the companionway to the head – it is a boat. Use the washdown to clean off any sand or dirt.
John
On Mon, Apr 13, 2009 at 9:56 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Tor,
You are totally correct – the loss of head is proportional to the length of pipe. It is, indeed, like resistance in a wire. But with 3/4″ hose or 5/8″ hose over about 25 feet the loss isn't that great, or not great enough to make a difference for what we're doing, at least that's my seat-of-the-pants theory. 3.5 gpm isn't a lot of flow.
James, I'm not sure why you'd want to run up to the bow to rinse off and I'd really be hesitant to cross connect salt and fresh water as Murphy rules in this arena. Why not install a shower in the cockpit attached to the cold and hot water in the area of the water heater. I've put one in and I can send pictures for it, if you'd like. I love the cockpit shower!
It took me about 2 hours to install.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Or…. use the shower stall, that's what it's there for. So you track a little water from the companionway to the head – it is a boat. Use the washdown to clean off any sand or dirt.
John
On Mon, Apr 13, 2009 at 9:56 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Tor,
You are totally correct – the loss of head is proportional to the length of pipe. It is, indeed, like resistance in a wire. But with 3/4″ hose or 5/8″ hose over about 25 feet the loss isn't that great, or not great enough to make a difference for what we're doing, at least that's my seat-of-the-pants theory. 3.5 gpm isn't a lot of flow.
James, I'm not sure why you'd want to run up to the bow to rinse off and I'd really be hesitant to cross connect salt and fresh water as Murphy rules in this arena. Why not install a shower in the cockpit attached to the cold and hot water in the area of the water heater. I've put one in and I can send pictures for it, if you'd like. I love the cockpit shower!
It took me about 2 hours to install.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 12:52 PM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John
I am asking for suggestions for both. Neither of mine are adjustable and I am looking for suggestions. Once again Rich has a great solution for the mizzen. It sounds like that will be easily adjusted from the cockpit.
Linus<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Fortunately for me it only involves moving the boat to a small cove and diving in crystal clear 80 degree water. Then drag to dinghy onto the beach and clean the green scum off its bottom.
On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 8:52 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Of course that works, too. I just purchased a wetsuit for cleaning mine in 40-65 degree water…
On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 8:50 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I haven't painted a prop since they took the tin-based paints off the market. For a while you good get Tri-Lux in small cans, then it became Tri-Lux II and was worthless.
Since then I just clean the prop to a bright finish and then dive on it every few months with a scraper.On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 8:31 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Tor,
Copper based paint and bronze are no problem at all. Copper and aluminum is, however, extremely corrosive. Bronze, after all, is an alloy of copper, tin, and other metals for different uses. But primarily, copper and tin. So, paint away with no worries. (Brass is copper and zinc, a very different and very useless underwater alloy).
For the strut, I paint with bottom paint. If the shaft is bronze (mine's stainless or monel) you could paint it everywhere except where the zincs will go. That must be clean.
For the prop, you could paint it but the paint will wear off in no time unless you use a hard, non-ablative paint. Here's what I do:
1. Clean and smooth the prop – not polish, but pretty smooth
2. Using something like lithium grease or STP (yup, the oil that fixes everything in engines), wipe on liberally. Give it all a good coat. Rub it in.
3. You're done. For some reason sea life doesn't like either of these greases. I think molybdenum sulfide grease will work, too. But the oil/grease gets in the pores of the metal and really hangs in there. I may try teflon grease for speed, though, and it can be applied later in the season in the water.You could also use the zinc propeller and shaft paint in the spray can to coat these things as well. It does work but doesn't last the season.
Bob
On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 8:21 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Once again I am in search of knowledge, if not wisdom. What seems to be the most effective antifouling system
on the bronze shaft, strut & prop? Anyone?If copper-based paints are so destructive on bronze underwater, why do painted seacock flanges survive as well
as they do?I'm thinking of painting Silver Heels' underwater bronze with West System epoxy as a barrier, then using
ordinary copper-based antifouling over that. Good idea? Bad idea? In the vernacular of the New York Yacht
Club, wassup?Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I haven't painted a prop since they took the tin-based paints off the market. For a while you good get Tri-Lux in small cans, then it became Tri-Lux II and was worthless.
Since then I just clean the prop to a bright finish and then dive on it every few months with a scraper.On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 8:31 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Tor,
Copper based paint and bronze are no problem at all. Copper and aluminum is, however, extremely corrosive. Bronze, after all, is an alloy of copper, tin, and other metals for different uses. But primarily, copper and tin. So, paint away with no worries. (Brass is copper and zinc, a very different and very useless underwater alloy).
For the strut, I paint with bottom paint. If the shaft is bronze (mine's stainless or monel) you could paint it everywhere except where the zincs will go. That must be clean.
For the prop, you could paint it but the paint will wear off in no time unless you use a hard, non-ablative paint. Here's what I do:
1. Clean and smooth the prop – not polish, but pretty smooth
2. Using something like lithium grease or STP (yup, the oil that fixes everything in engines), wipe on liberally. Give it all a good coat. Rub it in.
3. You're done. For some reason sea life doesn't like either of these greases. I think molybdenum sulfide grease will work, too. But the oil/grease gets in the pores of the metal and really hangs in there. I may try teflon grease for speed, though, and it can be applied later in the season in the water.You could also use the zinc propeller and shaft paint in the spray can to coat these things as well. It does work but doesn't last the season.
Bob
On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 8:21 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Once again I am in search of knowledge, if not wisdom. What seems to be the most effective antifouling system
on the bronze shaft, strut & prop? Anyone?If copper-based paints are so destructive on bronze underwater, why do painted seacock flanges survive as well
as they do?I'm thinking of painting Silver Heels' underwater bronze with West System epoxy as a barrier, then using
ordinary copper-based antifouling over that. Good idea? Bad idea? In the vernacular of the New York Yacht
Club, wassup?Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rich. What you described is my mizzen topping lift – the reason I assumed you were talking about a mizzen. The original topping lift for my main boom is what I have heard called a Harbor Lift – just a wire with a snap shackle that clips to the end of the boom. In this case the wire is attached to the mizzen mast. I added a topping lift to the sheave box at the masthead.
Now, Linus, it sounds like you are asking for recommendations on the mizzen topping lift. Is that correct? What Rich described is what I have on my mizzen. As he says it does not cause any twisting of the mizzen boom. As far as I can tell this was the original Pearson rigging.John
On Tue, Apr 7, 2009 at 8:21 PM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Sorry, I have only one boom, the main. My setup is what Pearson rigged. I assume that Pearson used the same method on the mizzen, but I may be wrong.
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Are we talking about the topping lift on the main boom or the mizzen boom? I know Rich is talking about the mizzen.
On Tue, Apr 7, 2009 at 7:49 PM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:On my boom, the topping lift attaches to one side of the boom, runs through a block on the topping lift then through a cheek block on the other side of the boom and forward to a cleat. No twisting involved.
Rich
BlackSheepQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Dan,
I also have a single piece, plastic hatch board. I store it at the head of the bunk in the aft cabin, secured by a piece of elastic cord. I stow the vanes for the Monitor in the same place, between the head of the mattress and the bulkhead.John
On Mon, Apr 6, 2009 at 9:23 AM, Alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Speaking of drop boards. By what method does everyone use to hold them in place when used underway, let's say in ” heavy” weather conditions. I believe some of the race orgs. mention that they must be secured in case of a broach or worse.
alan— On Mon, 4/6/09, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Oops, NUSC=Naval Underwater Systems Center
On Sun, Apr 5, 2009 at 9:04 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Tor,
Good to hear modern times is finally coming to RI. When I lived in Newport in the early 80s they were just getting around to replacing the wooden water mains. The Navy made me put in my own phone line at my office at the Naval Underwater Service Center (NUSC). I had the only touch tone phone in the whole building. This was the main computer center for the base. That is I had the only touch tone phone until one of the trust worthy Navy employees stole it out of my office – touch tone had just come to RI and the phones were considered prestige items.Roger is a great guy and a really good fabricator. I am really pleased he's finally figured out how to work email as well.
John
On Sun, Apr 5, 2009 at 6:00 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Well, John, I guess it's a whole new e-world now. Here, within a couple of hours of my query and on a Sunday!, no less, is Roger's reply:
quote
Dear Tor,
Thanks for the e-mail and for your interest in Bristol Bronze. We do not presently make the drain plug that you are looking for, however we probably could. You would need to supply us an original, in any metal, to use as a master. I agree with you about the stuff on the market today. It is usually made from scrap alloy 360 brass and cast in S.E. Asia.
Roger W.
Bristol Bronze
401-625-5224
end quote
So there you have it. I'm not looking for a custom made piece, but I certainly do appreciate Roger's personal and nearly instant reply.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor,
Good to hear modern times is finally coming to RI. When I lived in Newport in the early 80s they were just getting around to replacing the wooden water mains. The Navy made me put in my own phone line at my office at the Naval Underwater Service Center (NUSC). I had the only touch tone phone in the whole building. This was the main computer center for the base. That is I had the only touch tone phone until one of the trust worthy Navy employees stole it out of my office – touch tone had just come to RI and the phones were considered prestige items.Roger is a great guy and a really good fabricator. I am really pleased he's finally figured out how to work email as well.
John
On Sun, Apr 5, 2009 at 6:00 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Well, John, I guess it's a whole new e-world now. Here, within a couple of hours of my query and on a Sunday!, no less, is Roger's reply:
quote
Dear Tor,
Thanks for the e-mail and for your interest in Bristol Bronze. We do not presently make the drain plug that you are looking for, however we probably could. You would need to supply us an original, in any metal, to use as a master. I agree with you about the stuff on the market today. It is usually made from scrap alloy 360 brass and cast in S.E. Asia.
Roger W.
Bristol Bronze
401-625-5224
end quote
So there you have it. I'm not looking for a custom made piece, but I certainly do appreciate Roger's personal and nearly instant reply.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor,
I've never gotten Roger to respond to an email, but (as I'm sure you know) he Loves to answer the phone.John
On Sun, Apr 5, 2009 at 3:33 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob,
I'm leery of Perko, too. It seems their cast bronze drain plug housing uses a brass plug. Mixing metals in such a crucial fitting doesn't seem like a good idea to me. I just emailed Roger at Bristol Bronze. Will let you know when/if he replies.
Thanks,
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
That's the stuff my PO had in the cockpit. They are not very comfortable for bare feet, but then you don't want anyone just standing in the shower and soaking. I removed them from the cockpit and put them in my storage bin for several years. When I left the Chesapeake I gave them away.
Tor, just a few years too late and you could have had them for the shipping.
John
On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 7:02 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Tor:
These should do the trick:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|311409|311441&id=1061229
Paul
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum