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Alan:
My old Rariton Heater was in the same position as Rich’s. However, where
yours is may be a good spot, because it is a bit of a lost hole in the
locker. It would also make it easier to put in the 11 gallon unit.Rich – have you found the larger size to be usefull. You mentioned
previously that it can take quite a bit longer to heat up, but of course you
then have twice the hot ( or warm ) water – which you may then use as is and
not diluted with cold.Paul
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I need to replace mine as well. Will probably go with the Force 10 (Kuma) 6
gallon. I haven’t figured out which configuration works for our setup. I was
tempted to go with the 11 gallon, but I am not sure I have the room because
my Seafrost unit is in the adjacent locker, with piping running thru the hot
water locker.I am also curious about experience with the Force 10 units. They are a lot
less expensive than many others ( but stil expensive relative to a home unit
:-). Have they held up well. I don’t mind spending twice the price for
something that lasts 3 times as long.Paul
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Hi Eric.
While I haven’t taken mine apart yet, pumps are usually pretty easy to
rebuild yourself. I have just taken apart my raw water pump for the genset.
Took the old bearings and lip seal to the local bearing shop and came out
with new bits a few minutes later. Bearings are typically $10-20 and seals
less than $10. The main tool you usually need is a simple gear puller.
However, others that have rebuilt these may have better insight.Paul
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Apparently the reasons are to reduce windage and get weight down in a real
blow. Also, if you get dismasted, you will still have your spin pole to jury
rig something with.I assume you would be bringing it down to the deck level about the same time
you are hanking on your storm jib to the inner stay 🙂 – hopefully before
it gets to wild up there.Paul
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“I am assuming that the pole is then
stored on deck.”Yes, since it is a collapsing pole, it is stored on the stanchions. I assume
you are going to store the outboard end on the deck and the inboard at the
top of the track?? You may also want to add for offshore in a blow, deck
storage as well.Paul
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Alan:
The track on my mast for the whisker pole is only 2 ft long and it starts 2″
below the mainsail track.Since I haven’t sailed the boat yet, I can’t give any input if this is the
right position or not.Paul
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Linus:
You might get better cooling of the battery if you put the fresh air duct over the box so it sees the coolest air. If you put the outlet duct over the box, it will always be seeing the hottest air.
This is a timely topic, as I was going to start on my chain-plate re-installation this weekend as the temps are finally going to get above freezing here and I can start to do some epoxy work.
After I removed my old chain-plates, I then used an allen key on a drill to remove 1 inch on core material from around the slot. At first, I just refilled the whole thing with thickened epoxy and then I was going to cut out a new slot.
However, I was wondering if it would be easier if I formed the slot in place. I was going to wrap an old chain-plate with tape until it was 1/2 inch thick where it goes through the deck. I was going to cover the area that would see the epoxy with clear tape and some wax. I would inject thickened epoxy into the cavity. Hopefully then, after the epoxy set. I could remove the old chain-plate and have a perfect 1/8 inch gap around the new 3/8ths inch chain-plate for adding your preferred bedding compound.
Has anyone tried something like this. Will the clear tape /wax be enough to release from the epoxy. Should I wait until the epoxy completely sets or remove it just after it starts to firm up.
Thanks,
Hi Tor:
I agree that on any topic about boats, you will always find as many success
stories as failures when discussing something. However, with over 100,000
miles offshore sailing experience, including a 9,000 mile non-stop run from
Chile to Australia around the Horn and two circumnavigations, I wouldn’t
consider Evan’s comments to be hearsay or lacking in hands on experience.
(over 140 article and 3 books published books between them)http://www.bethandevans.com/voyaging_on_hawk.htm
He was directing his comments to those boats that are on the hook most of
the time. He did mention that there are cases where gels can give a 20 year
maintenance free life, so you experience with gels is in line with that.Paul
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For those who don’t read follow the SSCA discussion board, Evans Starzinger just posted the following excellent summary on battery choices. It pretty much confirms what Alan and others have been saying about 6 volt wet cells. Note he mentioned that “second brands”, instead of Trojans, may be more cost effective. I believe Rich has mentioned has has had good success with East Penn batteries.
Quote:
“For a cruising boat at anchor cycling their batteries (eg discharging them and then charging them), here’s the real world big picture on batteries as I understand it:
(1) Gels have roughly twice the price for half the cycles compared to wet cells. So, ¼ the ‘value’. There is not yet a lot of experience with AGM’s on cruising boats but the experience so far is somewhat worse than gels (according to my sources at West Marine, and in the cruising grapevine).
(2) 6vt batteries have roughly 33% more cycles than 12vt batteries and you can get about 20% more amp hours in the same footprint (but they are taller).
(3) When I was last shopping for batteries, Trojans were priced 35% higher than the second brands (like Interstate and LTH) but deliver (in our experience) very similar performance, quality and support.
(4) Usage/charging patterns will make more difference to lifespan than anything else. For example: (a) Discharging the batteries to 75% of capacity (25% left) will reduce life cycles by 30% compared to discharging only 50% (Trojan). (b) Battery life cycles are halved for every 10ºC of rise in average operating temperature above 68F, and battery capacity is halved in cold temperature (MasterVolt). (c) Consistently charging a gel battery .7vt above the recommended voltage will reduce battery life by 60% (East Penn). (d) Undersized jumpers/cables or dirty/under torqued connections can reduce capacity by any amount.
So, for best life span/value the clear recommendation is buy ‘second brand’ 6vt wet batteries, get a really big house bank, be sure to use the optimal charge/discharge regime (shallow discharges, full charges with equalization cycles), use big cables and clean the connections (and batteries) regularly, and keep operating temperature as close to optimal as possible. This is the hardest one to control but you can keep them away from engine heat but also warmed in cold weather.
However, if you are mostly on a dock with a shore charger plugged in, or have a lot of continuous charging from solar/wind, so that you don’t really cycle your batteries, then gels and AGM’s make more sense. These batteries can have a 20 year maintenance free life span if they are not cycled. BUT, this is a very rare situation for an active/anchored cruising boat.
Also if you are racing where the ORC regulations are in force then sealed batteries are ‘strongly recommended’ to avoid the possibility of an acid spill during a knock-down. I personally think this is a drastic overreaction to a minor risk, and I think the ability to accurately monitor wet cell condition (and so not set to sea with a potentially bad cell) with a hydrometer (which you can not do with sealed batteries) is valuable from a safety perspective and more than offsets the spill issue.”
Paul
Alan:
Thanks for the correction on the Trojan capacities. Getting 240 AH batteries
into the same space as the 165 Ah 4D’s is a pretty good deal.Concerning additional battery placement, my PO added shelves aft but
slightly elevated
of the original two battery boxes. I have one additional 4D on the lower
shelf now, with room for another on the upper shelf. Of course, neither of
these are proper battery boxes, just one more thing on the list of stuff to
fix.I am assuming the diesel genset in the port locker keeps thing level.
Paul
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Alan:
Re:
“I use the T125 – more AH’s and only a 1/2”
taller – almost the same price. I think I paid about
75 dollars each. SO, each 2 batteries (150$) would
give you about 225 AH # 12 volts or there abouts. If
your Stb sail locker is like mine, you can easily fit
in 4 of those, giving you about 450AH worth of
storage.”Do you not mean 2 x T-125’s (6 volt) give you 125 AH at 12 volts and 250 AH
for 4, or do I have it backwards.Paul
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Alan:
As far as lengths go. Forespar indicates that they make the spinnaker pole
3″ less than the J. I assume that is so you can swing it past the forestay
without disconnecting it at the mast.For reference, the whisker pole that came with my boat goes from 14 ft to 18
ft, so if the J is about 16 ft, that would put you in the middle of my pole.Paul
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Hi Alan:
I just climbed on the boat (only -11C on it this morning) and my 2 mid
drains (through the galley and head) are both clearly marked 1 1/2″. The aft
ones appear to be the same size, based on the identical OD.Paul
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John:
Thanks for the info on the website upgrade. It is definitely easier to get
around the site without the frames, which took up a lot of space. I have
wanted to thank you for a while for all of the effort you have put into your
site. It really helps somebody like me that is starting from the same point
you were several years ago.Paul
Boundless #28
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