Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
“Or maybe just get a drifter or assymetric on some temporary furler forward of the headstay? But I really don’t like spending time on the pointy end when sailing.
Granted these kinds of ponderings only affect me as the season winds down, and I’m not actually sailing enough. I realize that there is risk in moving the center of effort forward, and I’ve got the sloop that is ketch without a mizzen and I don;t want to creata a lee helm.
Any advice?”Quent:
One of the items I purchased at Annapolis was a single line furler from Colligo Marine. I will use this to fly a drifter/gennaker . I will probably use Dynex Dux instead of wire in the luff, which should make the storage easier. I haven’t decide if I will attach the tack to the anchor roller or possibly further out on some sort of extendable bowsprit.
http://www.colligomarine.com/Furlers/Roller-Furler.htm
Paul
Boundless #28Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
It is amazing how good they look with a coat of paint on them. Funny, my 30 yr old W60 has 960 hours on it as well. I guess the hour meters were designed to break just before they rolled over 1000 hours 🙂
Paul
To:
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor:
Here is the page that has more info. On the sidebar to the right is a list of lights and a discussion on the approaches to Bermuda.
Here is the info on the approaches:
“When approaching Bermuda from the North it must be remembered that reefs extend up to 10 miles from the island in this direction — consequently it is advisable to keep well to the East and approach St. David’s Head on a course of 226 true. When approaching from the South, St. David’s Head should be safely passed at a distance of one mile or greater, and kept at a bearing of 225 degrees true until St. Catherine’s Point bears 290 degrees true.
In poor visibility, or when a vessel is having navigation difficulties or problems manoeuvring, the safest direction to approach the island from is the Southeast. It should also be remembered that the 100 fathom line is only approximately 1 to 1.5 miles from shore.
During approach vessels should maintain radio contact with Bermuda Radio /ZBR who will normally be able to assist if necessary.
If in doubt about approaching Bermuda at night and entering harbour, vessels are advised to lie offshore until daybreak, or anchor in Five Fathom Hole (32° 23’N 64° 37’W).”I don’t think you need any charts. It is the only land around for over 600 miles. Kind of hard to miss 🙂
Paul
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor:
I agree, I am not sure ethylene glycol would be my first choice to dry out the wood. However, I would also be a little hesitant to use acetone, since it is a pretty good fiberglass resin solvent. If I were to try something, I would go with de-natured alcohol (95% ethanol/5% methanol) or rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol. Both should be pretty good at adsorbing any water present and they will also kill any mold or fungus present, so I would not bother adding any boric acid.
They are very flammable though, so not a job I would do while smoking, unless you happen to be looking for an insurance payout!!!
PaulPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
“How is your Cummins engine working out?
Pete:
I am going to be inspecting a marinized one at the end of the month to confirm the parts I need and will start ordering them after that.
It should keep me busy this winter (after I get back from sailing with Alan from Norfolk to St Martin for the month of November that is!!!)
Rich:
No, it doesn’t have any mounts. TAD was custom making them for each order I think. I am hoping I can get my local machine shop to make them up once I figure out what I need.
Thanks for the throttle info. It looks like it has a standard linkage on top of the pump, but I will have a better idea once I see the finished product.
I will be asking TAD if they sell a complete kit once I know what I need.
Paul
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
“To further clarify my suggested meeting point (at whatever time) I’ve attached a graphic of where the “above the Pusser’s booth” is at the show. This is actually a terrace of the Marriott hotel. The nice thing about this location is access to the toilets in the hotel rather than the portable johns outside the show.”
I went through the various e-mails on getting together at the show and it looks like the following can get together at the terrace above Pusser’s.
Thursday:
John, Alan, Paul/Joanne, Lee, Dave/Pat, Tor, Rick/Andrea
Friday
Alan, Paul/Joanne, Lee??, Dave/Pat, Tor, Cada/Susan, Quent/Claire.
Since not everyone can make both days, I suggest that we meet both evenings at 6 PM after the show. That way everyone can meet on Thurday and/or Friday, as their schedule fits.
See everyone there.
Paul
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
” Where do you store the downflooding boards when not in use?”
I plan on mounting mine permanently in place. The back side will be attached with hinges to the lip of the locker opening. Under routine use, the front edge will be attached to the underside of the lid, so that when the lid is opened, it opens up as well. When offshore, the front will be secure to the latch on the outside, where the lid is secured.
Paul
Boundless #28Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I was just talking with Alan. I am thinking of driving down from Ottawa to meet up with him in Annapolis for the show.
We were wondering if meeting at 6PM, after the show on Thursday would work. Alan and I can both be there by then. Also, for those people that spent $35 for the VIP ticket, they will be able to get full value for it for the day.
Would this work for everyone??
Paul
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 11:51:37 -0700
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Lee:
Alan had asked the same question on the SSCA DB. Here is the thread:
http://www.ssca.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=8747
http://www.ssca.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=8747Paul
Quote:Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2009 12:05:41 -0400
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pete:
This engine, like most of the replacement engines, is smaller and narrower than the W60. When repowering, there are several options.
Like Rich did, you can add a piece of metal to the inside of the existing engine mount pan to match the new dimensions.
Another alternative is to rip out the existing engine mount pan, like Linus did on Sumocean (see 424 gallery) and glass in new stringers. This could be a good option if your existing engine mount pan has canted outward like many, including mine, have done. https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/sumocean-repower
Since this engine does not come with engine mount arms, you could get the arms made wide enough to match the existing pan, if yours is in good shape.
I haven’t decided which way to go. My first thought is to do what Linus did, b ut I am wondering if there is some vibration dampening from the existing pan and if it is worthwhile to try to adapt it to fit???
To mount the velvet drive tranny, you need a SAE #4 adapter and a dampener. These “may” be the 2 items needed at $173. each:
http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&ident=359300&mfc=Velvet+Drive&sku=386-3311316001&prod_name=SAE+%234+Adapter§ionid=10355http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&ident=359299&mfc=Velvet+Drive&sku=386-3312316005¢³_name=Damper§ionid=10355
These engines are cheap because Astec can no longer use them. These engines usually go for about $4200 in this format. Astec can’t use them because either the warranty from Cummins has expired or because they are Tier II engines.
However, the total cost to have these marinized will probably be $3-4,000 more than the purchase price of the engine alone.
The 65 HP engine fits (at least it did on Linus’s and Jim Ashworth’s boats). I don’t know how much additional room the turbo charger takes on the 85 HP. Of cou rse, the height of the engine box could always be raised. However, based on reports from Linus, the 65HP is more than enough power for me.
Pat:
No, I didn’t talk to the seller. However, I had talked to a small tractor supplier that had a 70 HP Mitsubishi engine for sale in the spring (it sold for $1800), that explained the warranty issue to me. I guess the clock starts when the engine hits their loading dock!!
Your are right that I am taking a chance with this engine. However, the one I received was very clean, the oil looks spotless and looking through the oil cap in the valve cover shows brand new conditions with a light coating of oil on everything. Of course, I am tempted to hook up some diesel and cooling water to it and fire it up. I bet it would sound awesome with no muffler on it!!!
Paul
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Missed one of the links:
http://www.the-house.com/wksllpl540sc8zz-straightline-launch-pads.html
http://www.the-house.com/wkslubpzz-straight-line.html
http://www.the-house.com/wkslubpzz-straight-line.htmlPaul
<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rodd
Bob is right about the weight. However, depending on your dinghy, it may still be doable. It would be about the same as having 3 additional adults aboard. I guess it depends on if you would need to get up on plane or not.
One option would be to look at the fat sacs used by wake boarders to add ballast to the boats. You can get a 540 lb tank for $85. and a pump that would empty it in 5 minutes for $70. Your local boating store may have other options.
http://www.the-house.com/wkslubpzz-straight-line.html
http://www.the-house.com/wkslubpzz-straight-line.html
http://www.the-house.com/wkslubpzz-straight-line.htmlThis is not approved for drinking water, so you may want to factor that into your decision.
Have a great trip.
Paul
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Dan:
My ceiling panels are easily removable, so I had a look. As John said, the light is on the Port circuit. However, mine connects to the light over my stove (L galley), which would be the light over your fridge, as you thought.
Paul
Boiundless #28Dan,
On my boat the overhead lights are all on the Port Cabin Lights breaker. The wires run from the light over to the port side edge of the overhead. I think it joins up with the wiring for the light over the stove and then runs aft, around the engine compartment and then to the distribution panel in the hanging locker next to the companionway. If the light over the stove works you may find a loose connection there.—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Linus:
The sheave box on the mizzen is 1.0″ wide and I measure the overall pin length at 1.5″
Paul
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
James:
As Rich said, the rebuild should be fairly straight forward. If you are so inclined, complete rebuild kits are $150-$200.
http://marineengineparts.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page198.html
If you google “Velvet Drive 71C rebuild”, you will find lots of discussions of people doing this themselves. You would need access to a press at one point to insert the bearing ( I usually just bring the part to my local garage and give the mechanic a $10 bill to press it on for me in a couple minutes!!
The service manual gives a very complete description of the procedure.
I am curios if Chuck or anyone else on the list has done this themselves??
Also, as Rich mentioned, this should be child’s play for your local transmission shop.
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
