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For a polyester resin using more hardner (MEKP) to get it to kick faster is ok but with epoxy changing ratios can cause all sorts of messes from never curing to brittle set. Â For faster sets with epoxy, instead use faster acting hardner.
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Subject: Re: Deck rot – round-3Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
best deals “online” or “on line”?
On 4/9/2012 8:44 AM, Silverheels wrote:
I need new jib& mizzen sheets. Anyone know where the best deals are
online?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I went with the Beta 50. See articles at dublerfamily.com
On 3/27/2012 8:40 AM, Bill Emberley wrote:
Quote:The popular 42 footer is the Catalina but when I dock my 424 at the yacht club it gets all the looks. Been saving money in the squirrel fund for a new iron genny. I think I am going big with a Beta 60. There is a dealer here in the Bay Area and they can do all the work in the water. What sold me on it was the placement of key serviceable components. Anyone out their had any Beta Marine experiences?Bill Emberley
SV Running Tab #86________________________________
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pull and inspect the heat exchanger before you go too far.
On 3/22/2012 1:47 PM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
The history of the heat exchange is somewhat storied. When I took the
boat on the first test sale, 4+ years ago we overheated. They had the
heat Exchanger boiled and tested and it ran great ever since then.We had our normal amount of water in the exhaust. But I did check the
strainer today as well and we had some weeds in there, but not much.I’m rooting for me too. 😉
-p
On 3/22/12, Pete Dubler wrote:
That was going to be my first question as well….
What is the history on the heat exchangers?
How is the water flow (check strainer and actual output from exhaust)?
When engine is cold. Check coolant level.
Good luck. We are all rooting for you.
Pete
On 3/22/2012 1:23 PM, Bill Emberley wrote:
Patrick,
What does the oil in the crankcase look like?
BillSent from my iPhone
On Mar 22, 2012, at 11:45 AM, Peaboy Walters
wrote:< Apologies for any dupes I think this failed to go out last time I hit
send>Today we were going to take a short trip up to Punta de Mita to do
some surfing, but with steady white smoke we decided to instead to
head in to the Marina here in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle.As we were motoring back slowly we ran at idle for a while and when I
revved the engine back up we started to go above our rock-steady 180F
engine temp we’re used to. Throttling back lowered the engine temp and
we made it into out slip.We’ve had no really trouble with out W58 to date, so I guess we’re
due. I suspect a coolant issue as we have some coolant in the small
catch before the bilge. I did, stupidly, open the engine cap a week
ago and spilled some coolant, but this looks to be more than that and
is has a bit of oil on the edges of the accumulated coolant. Our
engine pan is coated with oil though, despite how well I cleaned it
last time. so it no guarantee that mix happened inside or outside the
engine….Anyway, I’m waiting for the engine to cool down, then I’m going to
pull out my Nigel Calder books and Google and start looking over
things. If anyone has any suggestions I’m all ears.I’ll update as a I learn more as I assume the other W58s out there are
interested in following along….Thanks,
-Patrick—
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
@DeepPlaya |
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That was going to be my first question as well….
What is the history on the heat exchangers?
How is the water flow (check strainer and actual output from exhaust)?
When engine is cold. Check coolant level.
Good luck. We are all rooting for you.
Pete
On 3/22/2012 1:23 PM, Bill Emberley wrote:
Patrick,
What does the oil in the crankcase look like?
BillSent from my iPhone
On Mar 22, 2012, at 11:45 AM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
Today we were going to take a short trip up to Punta de Mita to do
some surfing, but with steady white smoke we decided to instead to
head in to the Marina here in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle.As we were motoring back slowly we ran at idle for a while and when I
revved the engine back up we started to go above our rock-steady 180F
engine temp we’re used to. Throttling back lowered the engine temp and
we made it into out slip.We’ve had no really trouble with out W58 to date, so I guess we’re
due. I suspect a coolant issue as we have some coolant in the small
catch before the bilge. I did, stupidly, open the engine cap a week
ago and spilled some coolant, but this looks to be more than that and
is has a bit of oil on the edges of the accumulated coolant. Our
engine pan is coated with oil though, despite how well I cleaned it
last time. so it no guarantee that mix happened inside or outside the
engine….Anyway, I’m waiting for the engine to cool down, then I’m going to
pull out my Nigel Calder books and Google and start looking over
things. If anyone has any suggestions I’m all ears.I’ll update as a I learn more as I assume the other W58s out there are
interested in following along….Thanks,
-Patrick—
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
@DeepPlaya |
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You could train a small octopus to do the job…
On 3/14/2012 12:50 PM, kalinowski wrote:
The inside ring that holds the glass in the peep port appears to be brass. I’m letting it soak in PB Blaster to see if I can break it loose.
This is indeed a silly way to check the fuel level. However, installing a new fuel sender unit without pulling the engine and tank looks like it would require a boneless 2 foot midget. Not many of these running O’ahu. Of course, the deck peep hole is only large enough for one arm at a time.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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The becksons (5×12) and the bomars? Someone else already spoke for the
lenses… but I found a couple of extra sets of plastic for the bomars.Pete
On 3/11/2012 7:34 AM, S V Navasana wrote:
Pete- will take your bomars
Ship to zip code is 03784, west Lebanon nhEric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 10, 2012, at 9:22 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
I just finished putting in the 8th, 9th, and final Newfound Metal ports. Anyone need the old Beckson 5x12s (with level cam latches) or the four aluminum bomar ports (they could be like new if someone stripped them down and properly painted them).
Also have a few new lenses (if that is what you call the part that is clear and swings in) for the Becksons.
Just cover the shipping.
Pete
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I would support on the mounts with some 4x4s
On 3/9/2012 2:00 PM, Adamlaw wrote:
When I pull this giant engine and move it forward to remove the fuel tank, can I rest it on it’s belly (oil pan) or do I need to block under the engine mounts to prevent tragedy?
-Adam
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See article on refinishing the spars…. http://www.dublerfamily.com
http://dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Regina_Oceani.htmlOn 2/27/2012 10:23 AM, kalinowski wrote:
Can anyone give me some pointers on materials for touching up the masts? They are original with the boat.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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See article on refinishing the spars…. http://www.dublerfamily.com
http://dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Regina_Oceani.htmlOn 2/27/2012 10:23 AM, kalinowski wrote:
Can anyone give me some pointers on materials for touching up the masts? They are original with the boat.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Prep with Alumaprep followed by Analine primer (chromate) (see article)
But you should sand/grind out the rotted aluminum. And after the
treatment above, use a two-part metal primer and then filler, primers,
and paint.On 2/27/2012 1:47 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
They’re made of aluminum. Zinc chromate is the primer of choice.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Feb 27, 2012 3:34 PM, “kalinowski” wrote:I don’t want to pull the sticks right now. My more immediate problem is
some paint bubbling around the winches on the mizzen. I assume I’ll have
to sand down to bare metal, apply some type of primer and then top coat.
What metal are the masts made of? Primer suggestions?Mahalo
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Well yes and no, re expenses. Because I write for a magazine, I often get wholesale or better pricing so the numbers I have would not really apply to others. BUT, I can tell you that the whole job can be done really well DIY for under $15K including upgrading the fuel system, putting in a new engine bed, rebuilding the tranny, and all new exhaust system and wiring including the high current cables. In that price I include all of the upgrades I had added to the Beta 50 as discussed in the article. I did not replace the V-drive, shaft, or prop. The V-Drive was rebuild after survey when I bought the boat. The prop is a Max-Prop. The shaft had been replaced in the past (I have two shafts aboard).
Charlie,
Love to see you and any of my 424 brethren that pass this way. Just let
me know when you coming.PLEASE don’t stop subscribing to BWS just cause you can read my article
later on my website 🙂On 2/9/2012 4:51 PM, cstewart wrote:
Pete: I’ve been trying to keep up with your articles in BWS but it is nice that we can see them posted here. Thanks for thinking of us.
Is your boat still on the hard in Colorado? I have left my boat in the Keys and we are going to be in the Denver/Breckenridge area the last week of February. I would love to drop by (you’re in Ft. Collins?) and see your boat if that is possible. All of the work you are doing sounds outstanding. I laughed at your comment that cruising should not be repair work at exotic ports. I think I’ve been doing that for 1.5 years.
Charlie Stewart
“OneEighty”
P-424, #54
770-313-5115
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose sight of the shore."
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