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The deck story comes out in the April edition. I am absolutely
delighted with how it came out. Spraying is the only way to go as far
as I am concerned.Pete
On 2/8/2012 9:45 AM, wrote:
Quote:Pete
Nice posting. I need to do something about my decks this spring so I’m looking forward to whatever advice you might have. I’ve painted the side-decks and cockpit several times over the years and have had poor success with everything I’ve tried. The 2-part polyurethane paint is too slippery even with nonskid powder mixed in. I put a one-part nonskid paint on the side-decks. It provides excellent traction but its way too aggressive. The nonskid holds dirt. I plan to try something on the cockpit this spring to see if I can get a better nonskid finish. If that works I might do the rest of the boat next year. I’m looking for a coating that doesn’t hold dirt but is safe to walk on in bare feet. So far the coachroof is original. The gelcoat is worn and holds dirt.We’ve painted the topsides twice over the many years I’ve owned BlackSheep. We’ve used interlux 2-part topside paint. We get brush-strokes but if its applied carefully you can’t see them unless you look very closely. After applying a coat, the finish is too slippery for dirt to adhere. Cleaning the topsides is easy, just wipe it down with a detergent cleaner and rinse. After about 7 years or so the finish loses its gloss and holds dirt so its time to repaint. My wife and I can repaint the topsides in about three days. I find it easier than compounding and waxing.
Regards
Rich
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Eric,
Which size (p/n) of the Garhauer block are you using there?
Pete
On 2/6/2012 4:16 PM, Oldrodie wrote:
I am replacing the reefing line cheek blocks on the main boom.
The replacements are from garhauer and have a four hole pattern.
The orignal schafer blocks are 2 hole affixed with ss machine screws.
Aside from serviceability any reason to use threaded fastener over rivets?Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941Sent from my iPad
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I sprayed my decks a mix of course and fine texture powder in the
Alexseal paint. Man does it have a grip! And I have tested it in snow
and ice.Pete
On 2/1/2012 10:31 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Eric,I’ve still got several quarts of the stuff, too. I originally planned to
do the side decks as well and maybe more, but fortunately waited to see
how the foredeck turned out.I don’t know if you could add sand to KiwiGrip effectively, or if there
would be any point (compared to just using sand with a good deck paint).
You might ask the KiwiGrip manufacturer about that, and about the
slippery-to-bare-feet-when-wet issue I have. In all other respects –
application, adhesion, durability and non-skid in deck shoes – it’s
excellent.I researched that paint online – blogs, etc – before I bought it.
Surprising I never heard of the problem I’m having.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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the 50. You only need about 36 HP to get the 424 up to hull speed even
considering the losses through the tranny and prop.See the Blue Water Sailing articles on the engine selection and
installation at my web site http://www.dublerfamily.com (follow liks to the
boat page)Note in the article the special options I got to make it so much more
perfect for the 424.Pete
On 2/1/2012 8:55 AM, skipmac wrote:
If (when?) I repower it will be with a Beta, unless they get the bugs and costs for electric sorted out before hand.
Which Beta did you go with?
Skip
petedd wrote:
That’s why when it came time to rebuild, I got a Beta.
On 1/31/2012 7:11 PM, skipmac wrote:
They want $400 just for the fuel shutoff solenoid. Guess I shouldn’t be surprised considering the costs for other parts for the W58.
Think I will ever want to buy another Westerbeke product (rhetorical question)?
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Credit where credit is due…. the Monte Duval Effect!
On 2/1/2012 4:21 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:This morning I remembered having an old water fill deck fitting on board
and I dug it out. Would’ve preferred something a little larger diameter,
but I can always expand if necessary, when possible. The attached photos
illustrate what I managed with what I had. From now on, when I ram a
stick through it and knock down a chain pyramid I shall refer to it as
the Dubler Effect!Thanks for the idea, Pete.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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That’s why when it came time to rebuild, I got a Beta.
On 1/31/2012 7:11 PM, skipmac wrote:
They want $400 just for the fuel shutoff solenoid. Guess I shouldn’t be surprised considering the costs for other parts for the W58.
Think I will ever want to buy another Westerbeke product (rhetorical question)?
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Maybe got to Thorsen or one of the other sites and check the part numbers.
This W-58 pump was working fine when removed from service and has the
fuel shut-off solenoid 9which sells for $400 all by itself – ridiculous…)Pete
On 1/31/2012 3:35 PM, cstewart wrote:
Pete: I have no idea if the w58 I-pump will work on the w60. If it does, I’m interested. I guess somebody rebuilds them maybe?
Bill: I will try to contact Sherri and see what she has. Thanks for the ideas.
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
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I have an injector pump off a W58 if that will work for you.
Pete
On 1/31/2012 1:05 PM, wrote:
While I try to dig out that receipt you might try calling them back and
mention to Sherri Moon that they sent that pump to me, Bill Tice, in March of
2010; maybe they still have it in their records.. I may not have that file
here with me onboard.Capt Bill Tice ,aboard s/v CHARISMA, 23*31.10N / 75*45.50W
George Town, Bahamas
In a message dated 1/31/2012 2:28:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:Thanks, Bill.
I called Atlantic Diesel and they asked me for a model# or DBA number that
she said was on a tag or on the pump. I am not on the boat, but I am
looking at a zoomed photo of the injector, and I see no such ID. Do you happen
to have a copy of the injector model # or the DBA# (whatever that is).
I would like to order one ahead of time before it blows out and then I
don’t have anything.
Thanks.
Charlie
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951
m2f
Read this topic online here:
https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?p=10817#10817
m2f
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Patrick, are you talking about a “quickreel”? I am in the process of
making two of my own using 35mm floating hub projector reels and 1 1/2″
wide webbing. You can get 600′ of 0.060″ thick 6000# webbing on a 25″
reel with an 8″ hub. Problem is finding a source of the webbing. The
guy at quckreel wanted a fortune for it. I am building two for shore
lines for those deep pacific anchorages.Pete
On 1/30/2012 1:52 PM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
Quote:Yeah, I almost got around to copying that off you too.
When I beefed up my transom for the hydrovane, I put in a side shelf
in the starboard quarter, similiar to the one I assume we all have
under the propane locker on the port quarter.On that, I bolted down a heavy duty mil crate and my stern chain is
living in there. When needed, I pull it out and attach it to the
Dyneema webbing I have on a reel. Love that thing, still need to mount
it though.We’re finding the stern anchor handy here in Mexico where the land
breeze at night does not ever match with the swell. The anchorages are
pretty wide open here.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya | W7PEAOn Mon, Jan 30, 2012 at 2:08 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Patrick,I made a stern anchor locker of sorts – for about $10. Here’s how:
When I got rid of the original bilge blower system (around Day 1), I
made a PVC deck pipe& cap to fit the old vent cowl hole on the aft
cockpit coaming (starboard section). I could’ve bought a shiny stainless
deck fitting from West Marina, but where’s the fun in that? Turned out
to be one of my more creative moments, if I do say so myself (photos
attached). Then I built a strong shelf in the lazarette area directly
below that deck pipe and secured a heavy duty 5-gallon plastic paint
bucket onto the shelf. That’s the chain locker. Since I use a stern
anchor about once every 3 years (if that), I didn’t bother making the
bucket self-draining, but it could be done. As it is, it’s a perfect
container for the stern anchor’s 25′ of 5/16″ chain plus a bunch of 1/2″
rode – I forget how much, but enough; maybe 100′. The 22 lb Danforth
anchor lives in a rail bracket (see photo). I also bought a proper deck
anchor roller for the setup (photo attached), not included in my $10
boast. But it’s still in a to-do locker waiting to be installed. Just
never gets to the top of the priority list.Have fun!
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Picture of newly painted and refitted bow including chain locker and
chain pyramid knockdown fitting… (which appears to be a barrel bung)
is attached.Pete
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Maybe a barrel bung would work well here.
On 1/30/2012 6:06 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:That’s a handy marine hardware source I didn’t know about. Good point,
too about a hardware store. There is one about 10 miles up the road from
where I am. I’ll see if I can get there today and look around. It’ll be
my last chance for a while. Even if it were just a temp cover of some
kind until I get back to the States, it would solve the immediate
problem.Thanks!
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I’ll take a picture and send soon.
On 1/29/2012 11:07 AM, kalinowski wrote:
Pete: could you give this bozo a better idea where you put that bronze cap? I don’t understand what “anchor locker plte” is. A picture would be great if possible. I’m modifying my anchoring locker per Tor’s approach and have already bought 300′ of 3/8 to wrestle with. Anchoring in the Sandwich Isles is more likely in deep water and your approach to wrestling with a castle through an access port sounds ideal. This is something I should do while I’m reworking the anchor locker.
Mahalo
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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For the pyramid problem, I have a bronze screw cap access platein the
anchor locker plte though which I can wiggle a 2 or so foot long piece
of stainless tube to knock the pile over. Never had to open the v-berth
chain locker door. A brilliant little upgrade by the PO.Pete
On 1/28/2012 4:47 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I had occasional pyramid problems with my 3/8″ chain before. Then a few
months ago I had it re-galvanized. Now it pyramids much faster. I’ve
worked out a system for dashing belowdecks every 25′ of chain to knock
it over, but it’s a scramble. I’m hoping as the new galvanizing wears
down a bit things will improve.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I have my spreader lights both on a timer and on a remote control so I
can turn them on from the dinghy at a distance. I wrote an article on
this once… I will see if I can find it again.On 1/12/2012 2:46 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Thanks, Paul.
10 years ago I installed Perko spreader lights. No exterior LEDs back
then, or at least I wasn’t aware of any. The Perko lamps are very bright
(35W Sealed Beam) and draw a lot of juice. However I don’t use the
spreader lights often, and then only for a few minutes – so efficiency has
never been an issue with these lights. The problem I’ve encountered is
bulb longevity. So far I’ve had 4 bulbs burn out, even with the limited
use. At $50 per bulb via WM, those $250 Signal Mate lights are looking
comparatively economical, assuming a typical LED service life. I just
bought my 4th Perko bulb, so I guess I won’t be changing the spreader
lights for at least another year.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Jan 12, 2012 at 3:48 PM, Paul Lefebvrewrote:
Quote:John,I think the spelling was wrong and it is Kimberlite and they are part of
the MISEA Group. I see they also bought SCAD.Paul
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