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I wouldn’t and didn’t open it.
Pete
On 5/17/2011 12:30 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I haven’t opened the link in the email below. It has the look of a
virus-generated email. Is this really from one of us, or is it some kind
of spam trap?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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thanks
On 5/14/2011 5:01 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
That’s not a Pearson part. It came wit the vang or it was purchased from a
company that no longer exists. Get a stainless one.Art
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On May 14, 2011 6:42 PM, “Alan” wrote:Never seen anything like that part on UNABATED (#140) nor on any other 424
I’ve been on.
Quote:mmmm…..
Alan— On Sat, 5/14/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
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Pictures:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/VangFlange.JPG
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/VangFlange2.JPG
On 5/14/2011 4:06 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Has anyone replaced their cast boom vang mounting flange? This is the
one on the base of the mast just above the deck. Mine is looking
pretty pitted and should probably be replaced while I am refinishing
the mast. Suggestion are appreciated. (I will be mounting a
Garhauer solid vang by the way. It was fitted for the existing flange.Thanks,
Pete
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Or I guess you could just tie the two half tanks together and let them
find their own level.Pete
On 4/26/2011 7:05 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:I assume that you plan to put them in the original space. Why split tanks?
You have to play games with the return line to make sure you don’t return
fuel to the wrong tank unless you add a day-tank. This is a small third
tank that feeds the engine and gets the return line.Rich
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95 gallons under the sole in glassed-in tank.
Pete
On 4/26/2011 2:26 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Just a thought before you go though all the hassles of changing to split tanks and a lower fuel capacity. If you plan on any offshore passages, cutting down the fuel capacity could be a mistake. On a recent passage from Bermuda to St. Maarten – I had 80 gallons in the tank and 30 gallons on deck and used every bit of it. Unless you want to wallow around for 5 days waiting for wind in the middle of no where.The engine comes out pretty easy. Working by myself (except for the actual lift – done by the yard) I had the engine ready for removal in less than 4 hours. 30 minutes of work for the yard crew to lift it out.
It may be easier and cheaper in the long run to remove the engine and replace the tank to it’s original location and size.
Besides, if your engine has not been out of there in a long time (forever) – there are a few hoses that should be replaced that would be much easier to get at once you can walk around it. I would suspect that if the tank is leaking – there are probably maintenance items on the engine that need to be attended to also.
Just a thought
alan
#140— On Tue, 4/26/11, joe shimkonis wrote:
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The sleeve fuses to the bolt. Easy in, 30-years, not-so-easy out.
I used some Muggyweld for many of the holes but will be redoing some
with aluminum threaded rod which is really the safer way to go according
to a few spar builders I contracted. For the dents and divits, I am
using the Alexseal paint system and their filler. Also will be using
some high-build primer.Pete
On 4/25/2011 7:06 AM, Adam Silverstein wrote:
that sounds awful. I’m already burning through cobalt bits and I’ve
only stripped the mizzen. Question: Assuming they had to get the
stepped bolt IN, why must it be destroyed to remove it? With a
compression sleeve, we drill one side wider and slip it in over the
bolt – ez in, ez out. How are you filling in the divots? I am using
West, but I also have the low-temp aluminum welding rod used to fix
bullet holes in helicopters.-adam
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I believe in them for cooling. I have two turbo fans at the transom
which suck air from around the engine and from around my generator/scuba
compressor. In the port cooming box are two 4″ air intakes with hoses
that go to the front of the engine, one just below the engine air intake
so the intake might get cooler (higher density air).Pete
On 4/25/2011 2:03 AM, Patrick_DeepPlaya wrote:
Replying to this olde thread because now that the sun is ocassionally popping out in Seattle, I’m going to be installing a set of nicro vents on my stern rail replacing the plastic air scoops with plastic tube inside that created sort of a dorade.
I just realized though that in order to do this I’ll have to remove the blower fan. A blower isn’t really a necesary pre-start procedure on a diesel, but I saw some other model Pearson owners were running their blowers for cooling while the engine was running if it was particularly hot.
I’m curious what you all think about the blower, if you have one and how you use it in the operation of your vessel.
Thanks!
-p
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I ended up grinding the head down and then drilling the head down to the
shaft followed by knocking the head off with a punch and hammer. Silly
design…Pete
On 4/23/2011 2:32 PM, Mizzenmonkey wrote:
Those who paint spars: how much epoxy paint covers both masts and booms (2 coats)? And that stepped bolt through the tangs looks daunting. Is there any way around cutting and replacing it?
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Coming soon to a Blue Water Sailing magazine near you… the full
repainting of Regina Oceani, starting with the spars.Pete
On 4/23/2011 4:38 PM, S V Navasana wrote:
I did mine in the last year. Main, mizzen, spreaders and booms took 3 qt of interlux brightside. I did 2 coats on everything and 3 coats on booms. If time had allowed would like to have done 3 on masts.
Mine had been painted by PO with an unknown paint – so advice from interlux was either go to bare metal and prime if I wanted 2 part epoxy. Or run 120 grit on existing then use single part paint. 2 part epoxy is very finicky on primer – if you paint it on a not compatible previous base it may not take or may have adverse reaction.
I am pleased with the brightsides – at least compared to what I had….Eric Lorentzon
SV Navasana – hull 59
Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 23, 2011, at 4:32 PM, Mizzenmonkey wrote:
Those who paint spars: how much epoxy paint covers both masts and booms (2 coats)? And that stepped bolt through the tangs looks daunting. Is there any way around cutting and replacing it?
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Very nicely done. What happened to your aft locker at the nav station?
On 4/16/2011 9:51 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Finished the nav seat and desk this week, it’s nice to have things going
together instead of coming apart… 😉http://www.flickr.com/photos/26558453@N03/5623329453/
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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LOL x 2
On 4/14/2011 10:48 AM, wrote:
Quote:My latin is a little rusty but I think its princeps portus but I might have the gender wrong. It might be princeps porta.My last boat was Natural High. The dinghy was Buzz. Of course, that was back in the ’70s.
Rich
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PO’s names: boat: S/V Magic Carpet and Tender: Rug Rat
Our boat: S/V Regina Oceani (queen of the ocean) so the tender should
be Harbor Princess (need to translate to Latin)Pete
On 4/13/2011 6:17 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:I understand that in some states, a dink need not be registered if she is
marked T/T. This may be a myth since I’ve never found a state that complies
with this practice. IMHO, a dinghy name should complement the mothership.
This can be a challenge if you have a name that doesn’t lend itself to this
kind of thing.Rich
BlackSheep – #47
LambChop – dinghyQuote:
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What did you use instead?
On 4/2/2011 9:02 AM, Rich Carter wrote:
They are junk. I replaced mine yeas ago.
RichSent from my iPad
On Apr 1, 2011, at 11:17 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
There are some padeyes on my booms each with four mounting holes, all in-line. One is aobut 5″ long and one is about 3″ long. Picture with ruler here: http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/BoomPadeyes.JPG
Does anyone know who makes ones like these? I need to replace one of each.
Thanks,
Pete
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On my w58 there were two breakers. One for the starter solenoid and one
for the glow plugs if I remember correctly.On 3/31/2011 5:12 AM, Seawater wrote:
Thanks, I have never had that unpleasant sounding experience, and hope not to.
I was looking for some other info last night and found a part number for a shunt resistor. It does make sense that since I have a ammeter (non- functional, replaced by link 2000 system) that ammeter would have a shunt. It could also act as a fuse.
Also, there are two push buttons next to this think on the engine, that I think are some sort of circuit breaker for the starter, I have a vague recollection of one of them popping once, and it took a bit of trouble shooting before I pressed one ot the buttons and restored the desired function (cranking, as I recall). Maybe they use the shunt resistor to measure the current flow too, but I don’t know how they would interrupt the current if they are not in series with the power flow. And, why would there be two?
Sweet mysteries of life.
Walter
SV Madness
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