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Very nice Alan! Do you have info available on the hardware set you
used for this?Thanks,
Pete
On 8/10/2011 8:47 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:I am all of 5’6″ and the cooler is 4 feet deep. When I wanted something on the bottom I had to remove all the crap on top and reach down with tongs.
So, I put an access door on the bottom of my cooler. I keep drinks and stuff I want easy access to down there. That way when I want a beer I just reach in and grab it without having to rummage though or remove everything on top to get it.
Most people would say ” OH, if you do that you’ll let out all of cold”….. well let me tell you… to get a beer – in and out in under 6 seconds – compared to 5 or 6 minutes trying to grab it from the top.
It was a suggestion from some experienced world cruisers and has paid off in ease of access and organization. https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/index.php/Refrigeration/UNABATED-Refer-Project
Pictures are in the 424 gallery
alan
unabated— On Wed, 8/10/11, wrote:
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Whups, let’s try again… finished painting my spars a couple of
weekends ago… Photo caption contest…http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/CaptionContest.jpg
On 7/28/2011 4:18 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
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I spoke with a tech at Imtra. Turns out that one can disassemble the
topside and, sacrificing an oil seal, get down to a pair of circlips to
release the shaft downward. The motor is then removed with the vertical
shaft. The oil seals (30x55x10mm) are cheap enough.Pete
On 7/24/2011 6:56 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
I am trying to get my Lofrans Leopard windlass of the deck as I prep
the boat for painting (and I want to change out the old teak spacer
block under it.I have removed the four stud nuts below deck but the vertical shaft
will not budge out of the transmission. I noticed a small hole in the
side of the assembly and wonder if I could run some PB Blaster in
there and if that would run down the shaft and by and by help free it
but I don’t want to just instead dilute the tranny grease.Anyone had this problem and have a solution?
Thanks,
Pete
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John,
Actually there is a flange which received the four stud ends. The studs
do not go throrugh the tranny itself. The nuts are easy to get to. The
whole above-deck assembly should come off as one solid piece with the
shaft, so nope, I don’t have the above deck assembly off. It is all
still together. Socket hit by mallet had no effect at freeing the shaft.I like a vertical windlass capstan, some prefer horizontal… actually I
like both. This windlass has never let me down. I have a switch in the
cockpit which I can operate with my toes and a handheld control forward
which lets me move around and see exactly what is going on which I
prefer over deck-mounted foot controls.Pete
On 7/24/2011 9:08 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Pete,
I don’t have a Leopard ( have a Royal manual), but since no one else out
there seems to have one either …Looking at the Lofrans drawings (which may not accurately depict your unit),
I don’t see any nuts on the studs below decks. It looks like the studs
screw into threads in the below decks gear housing itself. However,
assuming that means you have freed the studs from the below decks gear
housing and have removed the drum and the base, all you have is the shaft
sticking up through the deck and it will not come loose, It appears the
only items holding the shaft in place are two keys, the lower of which
appears to engage what they call the wormwheel, but what I would call a ring
gear.So given my description of what you already know (assuming I’m even close to
accurate), there should be nothing but friction or corrosion holding that
shaft in place. I understand your reluctance to spray solvent (PBlaster,
etc.) down the shaft and let it mix with the grease on the worm gear,
however there may be no better choice. I assume you have to replace the
grease on the gear every year or so, so what’s the risk? However you can
always try the standard fine adjustment tool (2 lb mallet) first[?].Sorry to not offer anything really usefull. I’ve been looking for a powered
vertical windlass to replace my manual, horizontal unit, so your question
just got me looking at the specs on the Leopard. Since I can’t answer your
question, maybe you can answer a few of mine.1. Are you satisfied with the Leopard?
2. What size anchor and chain to you use with it? I have a 60lb Manson
on 5/16 proof coil chain.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 24, 2011 at 8:56 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
I am trying to get my Lofrans Leopard windlass of the deck as I prep the
boat for painting (and I want to change out the old teak spacer block under
it.I have removed the four stud nuts below deck but the vertical shaft will
not budge out of the transmission. I noticed a small hole in the side of
the assembly and wonder if I could run some PB Blaster in there and if that
would run down the shaft and by and by help free it but I don’t want to just
instead dilute the tranny grease.Anyone had this problem and have a solution?
Thanks,
Pete
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One word: Marelon.
On 7/23/2011 7:59 AM, sumocean wrote:
Hey guys
I’m asking for advise again. I have changed out all the hoses on the boat. The last was the drain to the galley sink which I believe was original, 1979. I waited so long because it seemed impossible without cutting out the sole under the sink. I got nervous about the old hose and finally cut a hatch out under the sink to make the job eaiser. The original groco seacocks seem to be in good shape and they are quit massive in their construction. I service them all when I haul out and have had no problems from them. When I took the old hose off the fitting, (that looks like a flared piece of pipe) that Pearson used for the original construction became loose. It looks like back then they used silicon caulk on the threads to seal the fitting. I hope to be able to swap it out with a hose barb while still in the water but just in case I break the seal to the through hull when I try to change it do you think I should put back the seacock or go to a new ball valve. I have already done the ball valve thing with the smaller holes in the hull but the seacocks look much more substantial. I already have a ball valve that I bought years ago but have not installed yet. I thought that I would put that one on the head thruhull because it is a bit harder to reach. I guess my question is 30 year old massive, maintainable seacock or new ball valve?
Thanks for your support!Linus
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A multi-step alternator regulator (like those from Ample Power) with a
large alternator makes all the difference. Alternators with built-in
regulators just don’t optimize the charging of large battery banks and
don’t optimize to battery type.The “Living on 12-Volts With Ample Power” is worth reading. Also, the
Ample Power website has links to many articles which basically cover the
crux of that book. http://www.amplepower.com/tech_docs/index.htmlPete
On 7/18/2011 1:05 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Thanks everyone.. I’l l have to sort out my plans.. I had not really paid
attention to my alternator seemed to be working fine , but while I was
changing the oil I decided to jot down the make and model… Leece Neville
8RG2064 and it says its output is 12V @ 4AMPs… unless I”m not
understanding something…I am utterly dismayed how I’ve been able to be off the shore power at the
dock at all.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sun, Jul 17, 2011 at 5:09 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
So glad you asked…
I have two of the high output Ample Power PT-24 (aka 4024) 136 Amp
alternators left over from my engine swap out. One is an unused spare.
Both have double belt pulleys. Also have some extra brushes and
bearings to go with these. What is nice about these, besides the output
and the fact that they are direct “drop-ins” for the original
alternator, is that they use standard Delco cases so they are recognized
anywhere and the parts, like bearings, are cheap if you ever need them.
I wish I could use these on my new Beta but the foot conversion (new
case) and pulley swap out is just not worthwhile. Here is the website:
http://www.amplepower.com/**products/alternators/index.**html These sell
for $549 new. Contact me directly and make me an offer I can’t
refuse… BTW, I love the Ample Power stuff. I have two of their smart
regulators; one for the engine alternator and one to control my 6HP
scuba compressor/12V generator with 200 AMP alternator (which is
physically way too big for the W-58.Pete
On 7/15/2011 11:55 PM, Patrick_DeepPlaya wrote:
I was checking out my alternator and I was wondering if any of your W58
owners have high output alternators and if so which ones have you been happy
with.Thanks,
-p
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So glad you asked…
I have two of the high output Ample Power PT-24 (aka 4024) 136 Amp
alternators left over from my engine swap out. One is an unused spare.
Both have double belt pulleys. Also have some extra brushes and
bearings to go with these. What is nice about these, besides the output
and the fact that they are direct “drop-ins” for the original
alternator, is that they use standard Delco cases so they are recognized
anywhere and the parts, like bearings, are cheap if you ever need them.
I wish I could use these on my new Beta but the foot conversion (new
case) and pulley swap out is just not worthwhile. Here is the website:
http://www.amplepower.com/products/alternators/index.html These sell
for $549 new. Contact me directly and make me an offer I can’t
refuse… BTW, I love the Ample Power stuff. I have two of their smart
regulators; one for the engine alternator and one to control my 6HP
scuba compressor/12V generator with 200 AMP alternator (which is
physically way too big for the W-58.Pete
On 7/15/2011 11:55 PM, Patrick_DeepPlaya wrote:
I was checking out my alternator and I was wondering if any of your W58 owners have high output alternators and if so which ones have you been happy with.
Thanks,
-p
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got it
On 7/17/2011 5:42 AM, pat noordsij wrote:
Pearson424.org hosting company has recently made changes in their
technical architecture that has intereferred with the workings of the
mailing list. This is a test to see if it is now delivering mail.Thank you for your patience.
– pat
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A good diesel shop should be able to replicate the line for you.
On 7/2/2011 6:37 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
I’m not sure if you can replace that line specifically, but a length of
brake line, a swager tool from West Marine, and a new nut from a hydraulic
place may do the job.Those nuts’ torque specs are in the inch-pound range. Over tightening is a
big source if failure.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jul 2, 2011 7:34 AM, “cstewart” wrote:I just blew a high pressure injector line that goes between the injector
pump and the injector. Facing the rear of the engine it is the no 1
cylinder. It looks like the ferrell (flange) has cracked. The symptom is
fuel spraying from the back of the nut. When I hardened down on it the nut
cracked. Probably the nut was already fractured and was causing the seeping.
We had just motored several days through the Erie Canal and have just
entered the Hudson River when yesterday we smelled diesel fuel. Does anyone
know of a source of injector lines and perhaps injectors for the W 60?
Thanks. I am stranded in NY (somewhere) with a horizontal mast and no
engine.
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to losesight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951
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check valve should be right at the pump according to Whale pumps
Pete
On 6/26/2011 7:38 PM, allantereshko wrote:
The bi;ge pump cycles about 80-90 sec. The pump is a hi capacity rule and the moment it turns on it reduces the water level in the sump so the float opens the circuit. There is enough water in the 1.5 ” line to before the check valve to allow enough water to drain back into the sump ergo the short cycle. Have a rule float switch. Thinking about raising the switch a little higher than the pump to allow more water to accumulate. The bilge outlet is high on the transome so I always have a large head of water to deal with. Also thinking about a water witch, although I just replaced the Rule float switch. Would changing the switch mounting angle help. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated. Allan #206 Curve of Time
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RV20-1SL
On 6/16/2011 11:58 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Hey Pete and Ted, what model of Vang did you get?
Original Thread: https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=1562
Garhauer Rigid Vangs: http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=40Just curious…
Thanks,
-p
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Garhauers was also well-priced
On Jun 12, 2011, at 11:20 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Don’t let the price scare you. You can get them for much less.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jun 13, 2011 1:18 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:Schaefer 70-75 is what I use as well.
http://schaeferhardware.com/detail.aspx?ID=1010-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sun, Jun 12, 2011 at 6:35 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
I use the Scheafer track cleats about $75 each.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jun 12, 2011 9:31 PM, “allantereshko” <wrote:
Just curious to find out what the options are for a midship cleat to
hold
a springline. Has anyone installed a cleat on the bulkwark or is a track
cleat the best way to go. My docking situation requires a waist cleat andI
wonder about relying on a cleat of the sail track. Did a search before I
asked and nothing came up._______________________________________________
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I use the Garhauer track cleats. As with everything Garhauer they are nicely done
On Jun 12, 2011, at 7:35 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
I use the Scheafer track cleats about $75 each.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jun 12, 2011 9:31 PM, “allantereshko”
wrote:Just curious to find out what the options are for a midship cleat to hold
a springline. Has anyone installed a cleat on the bulkwark or is a track
cleat the best way to go. My docking situation requires a waist cleat and I
wonder about relying on a cleat of the sail track. Did a search before I
asked and nothing came up._______________________________________________
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Patrick
I could really use the mixxen gate if you still have it
From Meteora, Greece today
Pete
On Jun 4, 2011, at 10:26 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:
Anyone need a set of sail track gates? I just had my tough track in stalled
today (and my new mizzen) and the gates are ready for a new home.
They look just like these:
http://www.rigrite.com/spars/MetalMast_Spars/MetalMast_Mainsail_Gates.html#MM
Hinged Sail Gates
<http://www.rigrite.com/spars/MetalMast_Spars/MetalMast_Mainsail_Gates.html#MM
Hinged Sail Gates>
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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Just a carbide paint scrapper but mostly it wad just a light scraping after a 24hr dwell time of the stripper
On Jun 2, 2011, at 1:14 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:
What were using to scrape with? Was it just a hand powered scraper? Seems
like that stuff was peeling off pretty easy.-=p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Jun 1, 2011 at 4:45 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
I stripped the bottom paint on Regina Oceani this weekend using Peel Away
Marine Safety Strip. The good news is not a single blister on the bottom
(the boat was peeled and sealed by the PO years ago).Here is a fun time lapse video of about 1/4 of the job.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ng64mE4xNXE
Pete
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