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Sounds like a fuse. If you remove it, put an appropriately sized
switch in-line. If you have ever had a starter stick, you know that it
can start a fire in pretty short order so having a way to disconnect the
circuit should be available.Pete
On 3/30/2011 8:26 PM, Seawater wrote:
My W60 has a large resistor looking thing between the batteries and the starter. It is on the port side near the transmission. Does anyone know what this thing is for?
My engine has never cranked over very well, always grinding over slowly even with new batteries with a fresh charge. I have heavy 00 or 000 welding cable to the engine and a good ground.
Today I bypassed it, and the engine cranks like it ought to, and starts much quicker than it did.
Any help would be appreciated.
Walter
SV Madness
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yup, I really like the cabin hardware I have gotten from them.
Pete
On 3/23/2011 4:06 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Pete,
I am also cautious about using this source, although I have a lot of their
products on board. I don’t know what SS alloy they use on their products
(it probably varies – they may use many different suppliers in China), but I
no longer use their products for external fittings. I bought some Bimini
fittings several years ago. I wasn’t ready to use them at the time, just an
impulse buy at a great price. As a test I attached one of the fittings to
my Bimini tubing over the winter. By the spring that fitting was pitted and
showing rust. The rest of my Bimini hardware was just fine. I think some
of this stuff is great and excellent value. Some of the stuff is junk.
Unfortunately there is no way to tell. Stuff you bought last year might be
fine. The same stuff this year might not.
Again, I’ve gone to just using this supplier for cabin hardware.On Wed, Mar 23, 2011 at 5:52 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
I recently ordered some anchor chain tensioners from marinepartsdepot.com.
They came promptly as have my other orders to them. This time though, the
quality of the parts was definitely substandard. Basically the levers were
not machined in such a way that they could swing through their full radius
(did I use the word correctly this time Tor?). I emailed them and got no
response. After several more days, I emailed again. Still no response.
Their phone number goes to a generic “voicemail for the number….” box
which is full and cannot take more messages.Very disappointing. Use caution with this company.
Pete
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I have found the plastic marker work well on rode but not on chain
On Mar 23, 2011, at 6:54 AM, wrote:
I’m replacing my anchor chain, 3/8 ht x 200 ft. I’ve previously painted stripes on the chain every ten feet so that I can tell how much chain is out there. The pain works but must be renewed each year. I see some plastic markers available that look durable but I wonder if they stay in place or pop out and get lost. Has anyone used these?
Rich
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Same rig on my boat.
I have seen a rig with two poles mounted on the mast to fly two
foresails wing on wing.Pete
On 3/21/2011 4:42 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
When I refinished my spars I put a longer track on the mast and I stowe it
vertically there.If ever needed I’ll last it to the stanchions where the PO stored
it exclusively, but it’s annoyingly under foot there.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Mon, Mar 21, 2011 at 3:22 PM, cstewart wrote:
Are there any best places for storing a whisker pole on the 424? I am
keeping my pole from my old boat (Pearson 323) and plan to use it on my new
424. The pole is a 12-22′, 3.5″ aluminum and was oversize for the 323. On
the old boat it was chocked on deck, but was always in the way. I’ve seen a
couple of 424’s that have them chocked on the bow toe rail outside the
stanchions. Before I drill holes I would appreciate any suggestions.
Charlie Stewart
“OneEighty”, hull#53 (formerly Melange)
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
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My access plate is a pry-out arrangement instead of a screw-in one.
Must have been changed out by PO.As for sealing the hole when using the emergency tiller, how about a
towel stuffed in the gap. Nothing too fancy.Pete
On 3/18/2011 9:55 AM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:I have rigged the emergency tiller with tackle, but I sure hope I never have
to use this arrangement, especially single-handed. It’s there and it might
get me home, but …
I’m not sure there is any good solution to the emergency tiller for this
boat. That’s the bad news. The good news the reason the emergency tiller
is difficult is that the rudder is pretty robust. Beyond a major hole in
the hull, the worst situation I can think of when off-shore is the loss of
the rudder. That is an unlikely event with the 424 as long as the skeg
holds together.
With a balanced spade rudder an emergency tiller is very practical,
unfortunately it may have nothing to turn if something strikes the rudder.Rich is right about checking the deck plate for the emergency rudder. Mine
was seized and I had to replace it.On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 9:36 AM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:I never liked the emergency tiller setup on the 424. One would think that
if the steering failed, it would happen in rough conditions. Having to
open
up a 4″ hole in the cockpit sole to attach the steering tiller doesn’t
sound
like a good idea. It seems that the rudder should have some kind of rubber
gasket that seals the hole when in use.I don’t know if you folks have tried to open the tiller plate but it’s a
bear. It’s a good itea to grease the threads every now and then.Rich
Quote:
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Thanks Rich.
If I did the soda blasting, I would rent the equipment locally and as
with most things, do it myself. You are right, I would have to tent
everything. I have read mixed stories on soda blasting results so am
thinking more towards something like Peelaway, but that even would cost
about $700 between the chemicals and the paper.Pete
On 3/15/2011 10:43 AM, wrote:
Quote:Pete
Soda-blasting won’t poison the chickens nor anything else. They tent the boat and cart away everything. It will put a dent in your wallet however. I paid $2k.I applied epoxy barrier-coat and still had to sand. Much easier to sand the bottom once the paint was removed. If you’re skipping the barrier coat you can skip sanding. It would be a shame to go to all that effort to remove the bottom paint and not put on a barrier coat.
I estimate 400 sqft based on coverage.
Rich
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Thanks!
On 3/15/2011 8:39 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
400 sq feet is close enough.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Mar 15, 2011 10:22 AM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:Did we ever figure out how many square feet the bottom paint covers? I
know the group came up with answers for how much bottom paint, but I
want to figure out how much stripper I will need at 40 sq ft per gallon.Will be going with Coppercoat on the bottom as part of our restoration
project but need to strip the bottom first and don’t want to deal with
soda blasting since the boat is on a farm and I would no longer be
welcome if I poisoned the chickens.Pete
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You can also get 12V coils for a HWH. These are often used as a sink
for excess wind or solar power. Some HWHs allow for multiple sets of
heating coils.Pete
On 3/12/2011 11:31 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:The 120 amp DC will run the inverter which heats the water. My 2000 watt
Honda will heat the water. 120 amp @ 12V is 12 amp at 120V (approx 1440
watts). Your heater may be rated at 1500 watts, but doesn’t really draw
that. You could try it – the worst that would happen is you’d pop a
breaker, if there’s one on the generator.On Sat, Mar 12, 2011 at 1:22 PM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
Quote:Bob,
My generator is a 120 AMP DC unit. I doubt I can find a 12 volt DC water
heater.
The Kubota generator does not produce much hot water. I have never seen
water
temps above 110 degrees.lee
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Took our fuel tank and put it there. New tank is under the salon sole.
Pete
On 3/7/2011 5:52 PM, kalinowski wrote:
My divemaster son wants to mount a compressor on the boat. I thought I would poll other owners to see where they mounted theirs so we aren’t swimming blind.
Thanks for your suggestions
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
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I do not think Forespar makes a cast one these days. Only the welded
one made of stainless.On 3/7/2011 5:29 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Pete,
Bob is probably right – Forespar. I had these on my previous boat for the
whisker pole. I crewed on a friends boat for races and these fittings were
used for the reaching strut.On Mon, Mar 7, 2011 at 7:25 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Wow, that was fast. I have not seen this particular design in any
catalogs, but have not looked at defender yet. The PO spent a lot of time
on the Med and got a lot of parts there.Pete
On 3/7/2011 5:24 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
They weren’t standard – they are easily acquired from Forespar or Lewmar
or
someone like that. Easy peasy. Look at Defenders.com.Bob
On Mon, Mar 7, 2011 at 7:20 PM, Pete Dubler
wrote:Been stripping all the parts off the spars. I promise I have not been
cursing. (watch words: Kroil, torch, cobalt bits, heavy duty Wera
screwdrivers, patience)I did however break flange of one of the large padeyes. I wonder if you
all could look at this part and tell me if this was standard Pearson or
if
the PO may have added them. These are on the main mast and I use to clip
on
my harness but they could also be used for whisker poles. There is one
on
each side of the mast. Loop hole ID is 1″.In any case, I would like to find a replacement. Anyone recognize the
maker and know of a source?Here is the link to the picture:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/padeye.jpgThanks,
Pete
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Yes, cast.
On 3/7/2011 5:24 PM, S V Navasana wrote:
Nothing like this on my mast. Is it aluminum?
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 7, 2011, at 5:20 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Been stripping all the parts off the spars. I promise I have not been cursing. (watch words: Kroil, torch, cobalt bits, heavy duty Wera screwdrivers, patience)
I did however break flange of one of the large padeyes. I wonder if you all could look at this part and tell me if this was standard Pearson or if the PO may have added them. These are on the main mast and I use to clip on my harness but they could also be used for whisker poles. There is one on each side of the mast. Loop hole ID is 1″.
In any case, I would like to find a replacement. Anyone recognize the maker and know of a source?
Here is the link to the picture: http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/padeye.jpg
Thanks,
Pete
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Wow, that was fast. I have not seen this particular design in any
catalogs, but have not looked at defender yet. The PO spent a lot of
time on the Med and got a lot of parts there.Pete
On 3/7/2011 5:24 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
They weren’t standard – they are easily acquired from Forespar or Lewmar or
someone like that. Easy peasy. Look at Defenders.com.Bob
On Mon, Mar 7, 2011 at 7:20 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Been stripping all the parts off the spars. I promise I have not been
cursing. (watch words: Kroil, torch, cobalt bits, heavy duty Wera
screwdrivers, patience)I did however break flange of one of the large padeyes. I wonder if you
all could look at this part and tell me if this was standard Pearson or if
the PO may have added them. These are on the main mast and I use to clip on
my harness but they could also be used for whisker poles. There is one on
each side of the mast. Loop hole ID is 1″.In any case, I would like to find a replacement. Anyone recognize the
maker and know of a source?Here is the link to the picture:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/padeye.jpgThanks,
Pete
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Pull boat up beside the piling at the end of the slip, at 90 degrees to
the slip. Loop line around piling one end tied to aft cleat the other
end free to control through a cleat horn for friction. Prop in reverse
pulls the boat around the the piling (ie a turning the boat in a radius
around the piling). Letting the line out at the right rate lets the
boat slide into the slip.On 3/6/2011 8:27 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Pete,I understand using a spring line to back around a piling, but what do
you mean when you say you used a radius?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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yes, ha indeed!
I had to use a spring line and radius around a piling to back into my
slip at my last marina. I do like this technique and it depends on good
rub rails.Pete
On 3/6/2011 8:13 AM, S V Navasana wrote:
Ideally we dont bump into anything – ha!
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 6, 2011, at 8:08 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Interesting idea. I might try that and if I do, I will report back.
On 3/6/2011 5:56 AM, S V Navasana wrote:
What if you took the hollow stuff and resin or epoxy filled to make it solid? Would still be lighter than half round ss and could be drilled more easily. A bit of work to fill but maybe less $$
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 5, 2011, at 8:04 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Yup. I know rexmar but their solid rail prices are still very high. You are right, that the hollow is much cheaper.
Pete
On 3/5/2011 7:54 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Pete,
Check this out:
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=stainless-rubrail
I think it’s what you’re looking for and it’s fairly reasonably priced.
They also make the end caps.Bob
On Sat, Mar 5, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Bob’s mention of Vulcan Metals reminded me to ask our illustrious and
well-connected group if any of you are aware of a particularly good-priced
source of solid 1″ stainless rub rail. I am willing to buy just half oval
solid stock and drill it myself on my mill, but everything I have found so
far is out-of-sight pricewise. I need like 160 feet in order to do the toe
and rub rails.Thanks,
Pete
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Interesting idea. I might try that and if I do, I will report back.
On 3/6/2011 5:56 AM, S V Navasana wrote:
What if you took the hollow stuff and resin or epoxy filled to make it solid? Would still be lighter than half round ss and could be drilled more easily. A bit of work to fill but maybe less $$
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 5, 2011, at 8:04 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Yup. I know rexmar but their solid rail prices are still very high. You are right, that the hollow is much cheaper.
Pete
On 3/5/2011 7:54 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Pete,
Check this out:
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=stainless-rubrail
I think it’s what you’re looking for and it’s fairly reasonably priced.
They also make the end caps.Bob
On Sat, Mar 5, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Bob’s mention of Vulcan Metals reminded me to ask our illustrious and
well-connected group if any of you are aware of a particularly good-priced
source of solid 1″ stainless rub rail. I am willing to buy just half oval
solid stock and drill it myself on my mill, but everything I have found so
far is out-of-sight pricewise. I need like 160 feet in order to do the toe
and rub rails.Thanks,
Pete
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