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The 424 is such a sea-kindly boat, I would not mess with the keel for
fear of messing up the ride.Pete
On 3/5/2011 8:00 AM, Rags wrote:
We are moving our Pearson 424 to Southwest Florida. While we can manage with the 5’3″ draft, we are researching reducing the draft by about 6″. Has anyone cut their keel? What negatives/positives did you experience?
Don Riggins
Sabatico
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Yup. I know rexmar but their solid rail prices are still very high.
You are right, that the hollow is much cheaper.Pete
On 3/5/2011 7:54 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Pete,
Check this out:
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=stainless-rubrail
I think it’s what you’re looking for and it’s fairly reasonably priced.
They also make the end caps.Bob
On Sat, Mar 5, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Bob’s mention of Vulcan Metals reminded me to ask our illustrious and
well-connected group if any of you are aware of a particularly good-priced
source of solid 1″ stainless rub rail. I am willing to buy just half oval
solid stock and drill it myself on my mill, but everything I have found so
far is out-of-sight pricewise. I need like 160 feet in order to do the toe
and rub rails.Thanks,
Pete
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Bob,
I am trying to get away from the “hollow-back” stuff since that dents
compared to the solid stuff. I have a bit of the solid stuff on my
boat (well actually on the ground right now) and it looks brand new.
The hollow stuff on the other hand, not so much…Pete
On 3/5/2011 7:51 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hey, Pete,
Usually the rub rail (since bronze went out of style) is not solid – it’s a
stamped or rolled product with the holes already drilled. It’s far less
expensive and not so heavy, either. Let me see if I can find a source for
it.Bob
On Sat, Mar 5, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Bob’s mention of Vulcan Metals reminded me to ask our illustrious and
well-connected group if any of you are aware of a particularly good-priced
source of solid 1″ stainless rub rail. I am willing to buy just half oval
solid stock and drill it myself on my mill, but everything I have found so
far is out-of-sight pricewise. I need like 160 feet in order to do the toe
and rub rails.Thanks,
Pete
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I love my mast pulpits too. I think there will be a day when Jill and
I don’t want to dance on deck and this would be the time now to make the
changes.Pete
On 2/27/2011 6:55 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Pete,My last cruising boat was set up that way – reefing lines, too – and I
liked it a lot. I considered rigging Silverheels the same, but decided
the runs were too awkward. Between the hatches and companionway sea
hoods there are no straight runs aft from mainmast base. Elevating the
lines above those obstacles turns them into crew-trippers. There are
possibilities along the extreme port/starboard edges of the coachhouse,
but it’s tight and the lines will have to pass through several cheek
blocks, creating considerable drag. Then I expect you’ll find the
halyard has so much resistance you’ll wind up going to the mast to hoist
the mainsail while your crew (if you have crew) tails in the cockpit.
Still, the advantage of being able to reef the sail from the cockpit may
be worth all the trouble. That’s usually the time you least want to be
dancing around on the coachhouse.I’ve lost count of the times I’ve whispered a heartfelt thanks for my
mast pulpits. With them holding me in place, it’s no trouble to hoist,
reef and drop the mainsail& staysail, and is more compatible with KISS
principle. I believe it was the better choice for me on this boat.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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A little lighter topic…
So no one has run their main halyard and main reefing line aft to the
cockpit?Pete
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Tor,
As usual we are in violent agreement. It amazes me that 1) governments
have allowed piracy to grow to this level, 2) how far away from Somalia
this abduction by Somali’s occurred, and 3) if there is an anti-piracy
taskforce that does in fact escort ships, that they could have denied a
well-organized flotilla of 30 sail boats (27 of them EU members).And yes I agree, we are all responsible for our own lives and well-being
at the end of the day. Given the scope and range of the Somali pirates
now (1100nm from home), how could one possibly safely circumnavigate?All the best,
Pete
PS: enjoyed reading about your dinghy incident in BWS. Could you mate
laugh when reading it later?On 2/26/2011 8:39 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Pete,I agree! Governments need to do much more to combat piracy than they are
at present. That’s their job, or part of it. But until they’ve won that
battle, we individual skippers have to use our own good judgment
regarding pirates. I’ve gone out of my way to avoid the worst hotspots
here in the Caribbean this past year. Many who were less cautious have
gotten away with it, but some have not. There have been too many
boardings, robberies and in some cases murders down here this past year.Let’s petition and encourage our governments to get serious about
piracy, but let’s not forget who’s ultimately responsible for us and our
boats.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Piracy on the high seas was all but eradicated over 100 years ago. Why
has it been allowed to flourish in the 21st century? When you see just
how far from Somalia the Quest was boarded by Somalis off the coast of
Oman, about 1100 nm from Somalia I believe, I have to ask just how far
it will reach and how much of an area one must avoid.Allowed to operate with impunity the problem will only continue to
expand and there is no reason it would be limited to Somalis. With over
600 captives of the Somali pirates now, one has to wonder if the EU
anti-piracy taskforce is just a sailing club or a military force.The Quest and a map of the area.
(Sorry, but I don’t like the ICW…)
On 2/26/2011 7:50 AM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
Quote:Right now there isn’t any government in Somalia and there hasn’t been a
government there for years. It is a land ruled by no one accountable to no one.lee
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I like the rib approach to solving this problem. Glassed in 3/4″ vertical ribs. These then also provide mounting place for horizontal ash battens for the pretty finish
Pete
On Feb 19, 2011, at 5:21 PM, “jamesminge” wrote:
Our local (New Orleans) fiberglass guru came up with a solution (I hope) to possible oil-canning in the bows for less than $1000. He glassed in on each side of the hull between the V berth and the bookshelf, a horizontal section of 3/8″ balsa, roughly 9″ x 78″, layering mat, then mat and bidirectional woven roving. He opined that anything more would be overkill. Sure hope he’s right. It was much less expensive than other solutions proposed by local yards. Comments? Jim
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I tried that on my boat years ago and found that the painted letters had
soaked in all the way through the fiberglass. Amazing. I had to prime
and paint the transom so I could re-letter the boat before I sailed her
out of Florida. Did this in the water, in a dinghy…Pete
On 2/4/2011 2:54 PM, quent wrote:
Have you tried taking the painted name off with rubbing compound?
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LOL
On 1/31/2011 5:59 PM, Joe Shimkonis wrote:
Was it a Pearson?
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 31, 2011, at 19:34, Pete Dubler wrote:
Last night I watched the 1949 John Wayne movie The Wake of the Red Witch. I captured this great part from Wayne:
It’s more than a ship.
It’s a home, the world, a breathing thing.
Nothing holds it back.
The wind takes it and carries it for 10,000 miles.
Every one of these you’re free.
It’s like being a bird — instead of the sky, it’s the sea.
You have a whole empire of freedom — sea freedom.
You are alive the same way the ship’s alive.
You run before the wind and you never want to stop.
John Wayne as Captain Ralls in Wake of the Red Witch, 1949
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Thanks!
On 1/28/2011 4:50 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Give me a day or 2 to find it. There is an industrial supplier here in Rochester. The cylinder make is a BIMBA….. just can’t remember the model… I am thinking is was around 20 bucks,,, but then again I am suffering from CRS.
I’ll get back to you…..
Alan— On Fri, 1/28/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
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I used standard white formica from Lowes. (They keep that color in
stock in 4×8′ sheets). Contact cement to the plywood that used to hold
the vinyl material.Pete
On 1/28/2011 2:05 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Dawn,
I’m not familiar with Sintra plastic, nor have I replaced the headliner on
this boat, but I know several Pearson and other boat owners have used the
standard wall liner from Lowe’s. It has a smooth side and dimpled side. It
is easy to work with and is not likely to be damaged if it gets wet due to a
deck leak. No need to paint or cover it with vinyl. As far as I know they
are all happy with the results.
I would stay away from foam-backed material, if that is what Sintra is
like. Foam gets moldy very fast and will deteriorate a lot faster than
other solid materials. If you go with plywood I recommend Luan rather than
marine grade. For this application I believe marine grade is overkill and
Luan normally has one clear, paint-able side. Again you can get it at
Lowe’s or Home Depot.MO, FWIW.
Sintra is the name of the city in Portugal that used to be the summer home
of the Portuguese royal family. I know you wanted to know that.On Fri, Jan 28, 2011 at 3:04 PM, Dawn Rodney wrote:
Quote:Hi guys and gals!
Patrick and I got a recommendation to take a look at Sintra plastic to use
as a replacement material for the headliner. Has anyone worked with this
before or thought about using it on the boat? I picked up a sample today
to
take to the boat and try it out. I do have some concerns about the
hardiness of the material as it tends to get dinged up kinda like foam
board. Otherwise we are going to use 1/8″ marine grade plywood and paint
it.
Thanks!
Dawn
s/v Deep PlayaOn Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 8:38 PM, wrote:
Quote:Send maillist mailing list submissions toTo subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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or, via email, send a message with subject or body ‘help’ toYou can reach the person managing the list at
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than “Re: Contents of maillist digest…”Today’s Topics:
1. Re: autohelm (Alan)
2. 424 ‘s in South FL early May? (Rodd Leeds)
3. Re: 424 ‘s in South FL early May? (John Stevenson)
4. Re: 424 ‘s in South FL early May? (Rodd Leeds)
5. Re: autohelm (Silverheels)
6. Re: autohelm (Pete Dubler)
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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2011 13:28:43 -0800 (PST)Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Alan,
Do you have the model number and source of the cylinder that you could
share? Sounds like something I should have onboard as a spare.Pete
On 1/28/2011 10:31 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Was it the cylinder rod leaking? Over the past 6 years I’ve had to replace mine 3 times. They are relatively inexpensive. We used them all over Kodak on our machinery because they were considered disposable. But they do make a mess when they leak…. red tranny fluid all over the place.
alan.— On Fri, 1/28/11, Joe Shimkonis wrote:
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John,
Glad you found it. A clean engine is a happy engine and one that is
easier to diagnose. Hopefully you don’t really have a shaft “break” and
that the leak in your shaft “brake” remains sealed.Happy cruising (aka “fixing boats in exotic locations”)
Pete
On 1/28/2011 8:06 AM, John Sommer wrote:
Quote:Thanks all….I spent some time cleaning the space out under the
engine and found the source of the leak. I turns out it was from the
shaft break (it uses oil pressure to disengage the break). This Exxon
Validize size oil leak from the loose nut.Thanks again for the great advice. We are headed out tomorrow for
Nevis and then on to Guadeloupe.John Sommer
s/v Indulgence
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You could lift the engine within the boat with a stout timber over the
companionway and work on the engine while it hangs there. I think you
can do this without pulling the tranny. (I am recalling when I pulled
the oil pan on my W58 last year which led me to the conclusion based on
the bearing wear that it was time for a new engine instead of a rebuild,
and I don’t believe the tranny mount overlaps the oil pan at any point.They want a bundle for the gasket. You can make your own from
cork/rubber gasket stock pretty easily. I keep a roll of each thickness
and type of gasket stock on my boat for just such occasions. Most auto
parts stores carry it, you can find it on e-bay, or get at many
industrial supply houses. Sorry but I don’t recall the thickness of the
material I used for the oil pan gasket, but there are no critical
thicknesses for this application as long as you get a bit of compliance
from the gasket. Also use a good sealer.Pete
On 1/25/2011 12:33 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:John, I just replaced that oil pan gasket on my W58. I had the same leak in St Barts last year but I waited until I got back to the states to fix it. It looked like a lot of oil at the time while it was dripping but in actuality as I kept checking it there was not much volume.
To replace the gasket the engine needs to come out. I did that myself and only took about 5-6 hours working alone. The gaskets as readily available but the tranny needs to come off (6 bolts). You’ll need an engine stand. Not a big job, just a PITA. another day to get the engine back in and hooked up.
I had a friend who used Bobby’s Marina in Simpson Bay Lagoon offers professional marine services, including travel-lift haul-out up to 50-tons, storage and DIY.
He was pleased with their work.
Good luck and if there is anything else I can do for you… let me know.
Did you get to anchor at Colombier?
Alan— On Tue, 1/25/11, John Sommer wrote:
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