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If you can reach it, check the oil drain connection at the bottom of the
pan. Perhaps the hose has become a little loose. That is the most
likely source of a leak down low that I can think of.If you can characterize the leak more, you can diagnose it easier. For
example, does it leak while the engine is running or just right after it
is turned off? This may take a good bit of observing and changing out
pads below the engine. The seals of the W58 are pretty robust and
unless you ran the engine dry at some point or overheated it greatly,
they are not likely the cause. Start with the simple stuff. Paper
towels stuck in different places can help with the diagnosis.Good luck.
Pete
On 1/25/2011 11:32 AM, John Sommer wrote:
Hello,
Here I am in St. Barth and I notice that a small oil leak from my W58 is getting worse. I have not had much luck in locating the source of the leak, however I believe that it is coming from the bottom of the engine (perhaps the oil pan). I am contemplating heading back to St. Martin to get the leak repaired. I fear that to repair the leak, the engine will need be pulled. Can anyone give me some guidance? Does this mean a rebuild? Other than the oil leak, the engine is running great.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
John
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Tor,
Sorry, I forgot that your Auto-Helm is your windvane. I know you have
mentioned that before and quite recently in fact.Good sailing,
Pete
On 1/24/2011 8:40 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Hi Pete,Sorry if I wasn’t clear about what I’m using. I have a CPT electric wheel
pilot and an Auto-Helm brand windvane made by Scanmar Marine, the same
factory that makes the Monitor windvane. The Auto-Helm brand windvane is no
relation to Autohelm brand autopilots. (The two Autohelm 3000’s I have are
in a locker, emergency back-up units if the CPT breaks.)As for keeping the autopilot and the windvane from fighting each other, I
suppose the trick is to let them, but just marginally:The boat develops weather helm in strong winds. Of course, I first trim out
as much of that as possible with the sails, but sometimes that’s not enough,
or sometimes I just want to fly canvas to keep the boat moving fast. If the
windvane is steering more radically than I want, as it may in fluky winds
and/or compound seas, I switch on the wheel pilot to help hold a tighter
course. If the CPT autopilot is fighting a lot of weather helm, I set the
windvane to steer a tad farther off the wind than the autopilot setting.
That takes the strain off the autopilot, which easily compensates for slight
the windvane-created lee helm. Once I’ve got the right balance, the CPT is
just barely working to make small course adjustments using minimal
electricity. The Auto-Helm’s big steering rudder does all the hard work of
balancing out the weather helm and compensating for large waves, the power
coming from the passing water rather than from the battery bank. I can
usually achieve this balance in 10 or 20 seconds now that I’m used to doing
it. Each unit relieves the workload on the other. Together they steer easily
and accurately.I realize most owners have an internal autopilot. I have no issue with
those, other than their high initial cost and relatively big amperage draw
under sails. There is no question they are stronger than any wheel pilot,
and can often function perfectly for years. What I do take issue with is
relying on only one form of self-steering aboard a boat making long passages
or even just going cruising, especially when sailed by a couple or a
single-hander. That’s just asking for trouble. It’s going to break
eventually, and if Murphy has anything to do with it it’ll break a thousand
miles from nowhere. For me an optimum self-steering set-up for cruising
includes a primary autopilot (with a complete set of spare parts or else a
complete spare unit), a windvane (with spare parts), and at least one tiller
pilot ready to connect to the windvane. A bare minimum is 2 complete
autopilots.IMHO,
Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor,
I also have the Autohelm and CPT combination. I have never used the two
in tandem. How does that work? How do you keep them from fighting each
other?Pete
On 1/24/2011 9:25 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Mark,My boat came with an Autohelm 3000 on the wheel. I wanted a wheel pilot –
they’re cheaper, easier to install and consume less power than internal
units – but didn’t trust the Autohelm for blue water cruising. I bought a
spare 3000 on eBay, but then decided to just replace the Autohelm with the
stronger, truly waterproof CPT brand unit (http://cptautopilot.com/). It’s
pretty good, much better quality than Autohelm, but still a bit underpowered
for a 42′ boat in a real blow. When conditions warrant, I use the CPT and my
Auto-Helm windvane in combination, each augmenting the other, and can
self-steer through anything.I still carry my two Autohelm 3000’s as spares, and also rigged a tiller
pilot to the windvane as an instant backup. If I ever wind up hand-steering
across an ocean it won’t be for lack of preparation.Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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yes, aft of the bulkhead
On 1/11/2011 4:57 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:My water heater is forward of the port lazarette (the port cockpit locker),
too, but it’s beneath the aft cabin berth and there’s an empty locker in
between the two where I put those batteries. Is yours aft of the bulkhead
that separates the cabin from the cockpit locker?Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thing about Sikaflex is that to get the best results one should use all
elements of the system: cleaner, primer, and caulk.Pete
On 1/10/2011 7:04 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:I called Bowmar about 20 years ago when I had to replace the plastic in one
of my hatches. The guy said they use Silkaflex. I would guess they would
have used something cheaper and easier if it worked as well…Rich
Quote:
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Thanks for asking. I have been traveling and wanted to double check
that everything I had was searchable. We are all set. Pat has it all
on her server now and will be making the collection available to all soon.Pete
On 1/8/2011 10:13 AM, wrote:
Pete,
Have yopu been able to get copies? I have all three.
Cada Grove
Dec 10, 2010 08:45:35 PM, wrote:I am just now, finally, scanning all of early Pearson 424 newsletters so
they can be put online. Does anyone have a hardcopy (or searchable pdf)
of issues 26, 27, and 28? I have 1 through 25 and 29.
Pete
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hmmmm.. my water heater is fore in the port laz… no two 424’s are the
same…Pete
On 1/10/2011 12:51 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Lee,Photos attached. I squeezed five AGM Group 30’s into that space aft of the
water heater on Silverheels. I had to build a split-level shelf in there to
do it, which you can glimpse in the first photo. It just raised the outboard
batteries an inch or so to get a little more width out of the space from the
sloping hull shape. It was an extremely tight fit, but it worked out
perfectly. In addition I have one Group 27 AGM, the engine starter battery,
in the bottom inboard corner of what I believe Pearson euphemistically
called the hanging locker, just aft of the nav station, and one more Group
27 for the electric windlass that lives beneath the V-berth just aft of the
forward water tank, port side.Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I bought the gasket from Defender by the foot several years ago. (Bomar
hatch). Others have found the same stuff at McMaster Carr. Their
93085K14 which is EPDM might do the trick. Search on rubber bulb
seal. They also offer silicone. Much, much cheaper than buying from
Defender at current prices (Defender was cheaper years ago when I got if
from them).Try http://www.pompanette.com for parts (call them regarding the spring).
Pete
On 1/10/2011 5:33 AM, SilverHeels wrote:
While we’re on the subject (again)…
I have original hatches in Silverheels. They’re fine, but I’d like to find
some (or at least one) of the little rectangular-shaped springs that are in
the knurl knob latches, the spring that flips back the latch catch part of
the mechanism. Anyone have any ideas for that? I can’t tell who made these
original hatches. No brand ID visible.Also, what do you smart skippers use for gasket replacement material in
these old hatches. Mine don’t leak, but they’re looking aged.Thanks,
Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Sikaflex 295UV with their cleaner and primer is an awesome system but
not cheap (about $85 for the whole set), but worth it in the long run.I agree that the GE stuff is good, but this Sikaflex system is the best
I have ever used.I wrote a complete article on hatch restoration back in 2006. If anyone
would like a copy, I would be glad to share, but it cannot be posted.Pete
On 1/10/2011 3:18 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
I get my plastic from local dealers. Plasticraft is one. For 3/8 inch for
the large hatches, I think I paid like $50.It’s importanto get the right adhesive. I’ve tried them all, and the only
one that works is GE stuff. Just use gloves and tape liberally. It’s sticky,
black and messy.Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 9, 2011 9:53 PM, “Adam” wrote:Thanks for the quick replies! Bob where does one get acrylic fabricated
and what was the approx cost. My paint on hatches is in pretty good
condition.As to the NFM hatch, is it a simple drop in, or does the hole have to be
enlarged? Is it worth the expense ?
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I hate to say it, but you are paying too much if you use these sources.
Pete
On 1/9/2011 8:19 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
sources for acrylic
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=181&step=2&top_cat=181
http://www.tapplastics.com/-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 6:52 PM, Adam wrote:
Thanks for the quick replies! Bob where does one get acrylic fabricated
and what was the approx cost. My paint on hatches is in pretty good
condition.As to the NFM hatch, is it a simple drop in, or does the hole have to be
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Just go to any plastics house with a cardboard pattern and they can cut
it for you. No big deal. Alternately you can get a slightly oversized
square and use a router with a patterning bit and the old plastic as the
pattern for the new plastic using some double stick tape to hold the
pieces together while they are routed (doing this on a router table is
the easiest way). I have done this any number of times.If you want to do a precise drawing in an adobe format such as .ai or
.eps, my local plastics house can laser cut the plastic and ship it to
you. (Fort Collins Plastics. Ask for Chuck or Marilyn and tell them
Pete Dubler sent you.Pete
On 1/9/2011 7:52 PM, Adam wrote:
Thanks for the quick replies! Bob where does one get acrylic fabricated and what was the approx cost. My paint on hatches is in pretty good condition.
As to the NFM hatch, is it a simple drop in, or does the hole have to be enlarged? Is it worth the expense ?
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They are great hatches. Just get yourself new gasket from Defender or McMaster-Carr and repaint them if needed.
Pete
On Jan 9, 2011, at 3:55 PM, “Adam” wrote:
I have read that some have chosen to replace the bomar hatches. Mine are leaking with heavy rain and I am want to know if the plastic can be stripped, cleaned and rebedded with caulking or is this futile and just bite the bullit and replace the hatch?
Thanks for your advice in advance.Adam
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I have an adapter with two Male 30amp plugs that go to one Female 50amp
outlet. This goes on the dock side and the 50Amp long cord plus into this.The cheaper option to the two females to one male adapter is to have two
30amp outlets on the boat and have them wired internally. I do not know
the ABYC approach to this (and I could not find anything in a quick scan
of section E-11 of 08/09) but I would have two separate 30AMP breakers
on the panel so that you do not have two live inlets when you are only
feeding one. I do not know how the adapter works if the two 30AMP
outlets on the dock are actually on separate legs or if that matters ..
perhaps Rich could add some expertise on that.Pete
On 12/15/2010 7:54 AM, John Stevenson wrote:
+1 on what Pete posted.
If there is only 30A service on the dock, it’s a lot easier and cheaper to
use two 30A cord sets to two 30A receptacles than to use a “Y” adapter to
bring two 30A sources into the single 50A receptacle. That adapter usually
costs> $400. My fun and games on the 54′ Bertram last summer opened my
eyes to the world of heavy power requirements and usage.On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 9:46 AM, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
By the way, before you decide to go to 50AMP inlet wiring, check out the
prices of the cords, adapters, and plugs. It is cheaper to run two 30AMP
inputs than one 50AMP, which is what lots of newer boats do.Pete
On 12/15/2010 1:24 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
As planed I left it as-is and just did a proper replacement. I have AC
power
again!Part list for the archive:
– 20′ of 10awg3 Ancor shore power cable
– 7′ 10awg Ancor white primary wire
– Blue Sea A Series Toggle Double Pole PN# 7238
http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19
– Ring Terminals for 10Awg WireOut of the 20′ I was able to make the main connection to the breaker and
from the 7′ the wire from breaker to the AC break out panel. The Green
wire
in the triple actually hooks into the ground as the wire comes through the
hanging locker, so you will strip off a lot of the insulation.The wires connected to my shore power plug were only covered with
electrical
tape. There is a proper cover for the back I plan to buy. They probably
left
it off because the 6awg Type 2 wire they used was very stiff. Here’s a
shot
of that if you also see electrical tape and want a proper cover.
http://www.marinco.com/product/30-amp-rear-safety-enclosure-8-wayThanks again everyone for answering my questions!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 3:39 PM, <
> wrote:Basically correct. The thing is that more often than not these days
docks
don’t have the 50amp 120v single leg outlets sp u end up tapping two
30amp
outlets using a Y adapter. Also there may or may not be two outlets
available for one boat at the dockRegarding the “other way”, that would be a 50amp 220 plug which provides
120V at 50amps on each of two legs. This is like an outlet for a welder
or
more familiarly a dryer outlet though the latter is only 30 amps per leg.Pete
On Dec 14, 2010, at 4:17 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”<
> wrote:If your bored I’d love to see an explanation of the difference between
50amps as a single 120v leg and whatever the other way is.
I assumed to upgrade from 30Amps to 50Amps and thus run more on the
boat,
you would just upgrade the feed from the shore to the panel (shore power
cord, shore power plug, wiring to the AC Breaker) to be sized for 50Ampsand
then you could run more off the panel than you could at 30Amps.
Is it more complicated than that?
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 3:03 PM, <
> wrote:Yes. Originally wired for 50 amps as a single 120 volt leg
On Dec 14, 2010, at 2:13 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”<
> wrote:Went down and pulled out the bad AC Main breaker wire and now I’m a
tad
perplexed. I have a 30amp shore cord and always thought the boat waswired
for 30amps. My shore power plug on the boat appear to have been
replaced
after manufacturing, but all my panels and breakers are Marinetics and
I
assume all original original.
My AC Main breaker was a 50amp breaker and I have other breakers in
theAC
panel that are labeled as 30Amp.
Was the P424 wired for 50amps originally?
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 3:58 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters<
> wrote:Thanks John, I also have the Marinetics panel (Hull from 1981).
On a more fun note, we had a nice trip this weekend to Blake Island
in
Puget Sound. On the way home we sailed in 20kts of breeze with guststo
the
mid 20’s. All downwind or beam reach under jib alone with following
seasand
current. It was nice to do 6+ kts with ocassional 7kts for our nice
short 2
hour jaunt.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 7:11 AM, John Stevenson<
>wrote:
Patrick,I haven’t replaced that breaker, but I’ve replaced others (to change
the
amperage) and Blue Seas breakers fit those other slots. I’ve also
used
Blue
Seas meter to replace a dead AC Ammeter and add one for my SSB. So
I
would
go with the Blue Seas. I have a Marinetics panel (The Blue Seas ofthe
70s), Pearson may have changed to something else before the end of
the
P424
run.
On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 4:46 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters<
> wrote:Has anyone replaced any the AC Main breaker (mine is fried)? I’m
curiousif
the Blue Sea Systems 30Amp A Series double toggles are a match to
the
panel.
http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19
<http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19>Thanks,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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RIch,
Correctamundo. Sorry if I added confusion. You are right that the
marine split 220V must have four conductors. (The outer housing of the
part of the plug that gets inserted is also ground, btw).What was on the 424’s is a 50AMP single feed 120V circuit. Three
conductors: hot, neutral, and ground.If I were to want more power on a boat that is wired for a 30AMP input,
I would go with two 30 AMP feeds instead of the 50AMP feed. (I have
considered going that way as the 50AMP cord is a real monster. Most of
the time I only use a 30amp cord with an adapter at the boat end).BTW, I also have a European cord input for 220V which goes to a
transformer. I recently put both the input connectors into a recessed
box which has a flush cover. This eliminated to two places that you
could not comfortably sit in the cockpit due to these connectors. I’ll
post a picture.Pete
On 12/15/2010 7:34 AM, wrote:
Quote:Be careful! A common 220V outlet such as used for a dryer or stove has only three prongs. There are two hot leads and a ground. To split a 220v feed into two 110V circuits you need a four prong plug, two hot leads, neutral, and ground. Without the neutral wire, you may not have 110v on each circuit. If the main circuit is shared among lots of boats, there is usually no need to balance the loads. They will randomly balance themselves. If its provided from a single source such as a generator it should really be balanced with more or less equal loads on both 110V circuits.
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