Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Scott
Nice idea. You won’t need much light. An automotive interior light
may do it at a low cost. These don’t use drivers rather just
resistors so no chance of radio noise.Regarding the Sensistat I hope you enjoy it. I sold out my interest
in SCADtech but am still proud of the productsPete
On May 25, 2010, at 2:31 AM, “Scott G” <> wrote:
So, I’m back, you know long time no chat. A little up date, after my
motorcycle accident in May of 09 and no walking until Nov. 09 I
moved back aboard and have been working on up grading my boat. So
far rebuilt the pedestal, added radar, GPS, MFD, depth and speed, 3
new wenches, solent stay, topping lift, running lights, two new
through holes(while in the water),and changed the running rigging on
the mizzen.It seams like more than that but that’s what it is so far.
I have just ordered the last few things that I need to rebuild the
refer.
Two new hatches, Aerogel insulation, and Scad Sensistat (hope Pete
reads this).
Now to my question, I’d like to put some LED lights into the box
when I rebuild, any suggestions?
I’ve seen the led strip lights on the sailor solutions web site for
$20ish but don’t know if those will hold up well in this
application. Oh my plan is to use reed switches to turn the lights
off when the hatch is closed.Any suggestions, thoughts, or opinions welcome.
Thanks
Scott Gesdahl (#53)
Emeryville, CA_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The pumps I have are Sherwood H5 pumps.
http://www.sherwoodpumps.com/en-us/Products/Engine+Cooling+Pumps/PerkinsEngineUS/H5_Detail/Related+Products.htmHas 1″ ports.
Shucks, I use the R30 for my 6HP generator… has 1/2″ ports.
From what I understand from the PO, there was discussion about the
under-sizing of the W58 pump in prior postings years ago and this was
one of the fixes recommended. Now this means you need to have 1″ hose
feeding this than then neck it down at the exhaust elbow. Also there is
a hose elbow I uses which is a standard auto part for which I have a
spare as well.So it is not a straight replacement, but worked well. You can see the
arrangement in the photo at http://drop.io/pearson424. I also have the
PTO pulley for the crankshaft if you need that (free with the pumps).The way I worked things was I kept a spare pump ready to go with the
bracket and if the impeller failed, I would swap out the whole unit and
then fix the old pump when it was convenient. I also carry spare
bearings, seals, etc so I can do a mostly complete(did not keep an extra
shaft) rebuild anywhere.Pete
On 5/24/2010 5:30 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Um, which pumps? The R30Gs or the other pump. I’ll take whatever pump you
have that will work as I seem to go through water pumps like most people go
through underwear.Bob
On Mon, May 24, 2010 at 6:47 PM, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
Bob,
My R30G was changed out for a larger pump on a separate SS bracket. It
moves the water much better than the original. I have two of these pumps,
two brackets, one aluminum and one iron pulley, a bunch of impellers, extra
o-rings, bearings, seals, etc that are all up for sale to a happy home.Pete
On 5/24/2010 4:17 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Everyone,
I’m hoping beyond hope that one of you, who owns a W58 or had one at one
time, has an old Sherwood R30G-1 raw water pump that you’ve replaced and
are
wondering what to do with the old one kicking around in a locker
somewhere.Mine blew its brains out (the outer bearing failed allowing the shaft to
wobble and do some irreparable damage to the end cap, shaft and bearing
holder. The pump body is still good so if I collect a lot of old pumps I
might be able to rebuild this one with the major parts that don’t normally
all fail at once.If any of you has had the opportunity to use the R30G (difference? shorter
shaft and keyed instead of landed) did you have a problem with it? Did
you
use the original pulley or did you purchase a different one?The difference in pump prices between the R30G and G-1 is $50 – for an
already very expensive pump…Thanks !
Bob
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob,
My R30G was changed out for a larger pump on a separate SS bracket. It
moves the water much better than the original. I have two of these
pumps, two brackets, one aluminum and one iron pulley, a bunch of
impellers, extra o-rings, bearings, seals, etc that are all up for sale
to a happy home.Pete
On 5/24/2010 4:17 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Everyone,
I’m hoping beyond hope that one of you, who owns a W58 or had one at one
time, has an old Sherwood R30G-1 raw water pump that you’ve replaced and are
wondering what to do with the old one kicking around in a locker somewhere.Mine blew its brains out (the outer bearing failed allowing the shaft to
wobble and do some irreparable damage to the end cap, shaft and bearing
holder. The pump body is still good so if I collect a lot of old pumps I
might be able to rebuild this one with the major parts that don’t normally
all fail at once.If any of you has had the opportunity to use the R30G (difference? shorter
shaft and keyed instead of landed) did you have a problem with it? Did you
use the original pulley or did you purchase a different one?The difference in pump prices between the R30G and G-1 is $50 – for an
already very expensive pump…Thanks !
Bob
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Agreed re fossil fuels…
I think of the engine refrigeration system as 1) my backup and 2) great
for when the engine is running.Pete
On 5/24/2010 3:06 PM, Silver Heels wrote:
Quote:My previous cruising sailboat had what I consider the ideal fridge set-up, a
single-plate Grunert holdover system powered by a big 12V compressor. The
engine-is-running sensor was disconnected so the unit came on whenever I
turned it on, or else automatically if I left it on and the box temp rose
above some set number. Of course, I had a hefty battery bank, too. To
generate the daily 80-100 amp hours the Grunert required I employed a
variety of recharging systems – wind, solar, a big alternator on the engine
and another on a separate 4 HP Yanmar that could (like Pete’s system) also
be used to refill SCUBA tanks and/or whatever. Often while sailing, and
sometimes at anchor in the trade winds, the wind generator alone kept the
batteries charged enough to feed the fridge, lights, nighttime radar
underway, etc, etc. Re-creating that set-up on my 424 is a near-future
project.IMHO, any refrigeration system that requires a fossil-fueled engine to
operate is less than ideal, especially for liveaboard cruising.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Great technique. Thanks for sharing Rich.
So what are these clamps your refer to?
Pete
On 5/24/2010 1:51 PM, wrote:
Quote:Pete
The photo is somewhat deceiving. Its downhill to the side of the engine bed and pretty much a straight-shot from there to the water lift. The hose was special “flexible” hose designed for bending in installations such as this. It was expensive, but I needed only a short piece to get to to the muffler, maybe 5 feet long. Even at that, it was pretty stiff to bend in place. I did quite a lot of headscratching to figure out how I might bend it in place. I came up with the idea of cutting a piece of wood with a hole in it to bend the pipe, then once it was all installed I could cut the wood piece out; worked like a charm. I had to lift the engine up a few inches to slide the pipe under the injection elbow. Then lower the engine to slip the nipple into the hose. It was probably 4 hours of bruised knuckles and swearing before I came up with a workable solution and an hour to actually get the hose cut and connected.The photos show the wrong hose clamps in place. I later learned that you must use special ($$) hose clamps for exhaust hose. The regular clamps aren’t strong enough to clamp down on the hose and make a good seal.
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rich,
On your system do you have a constant downhill slope to the lift
muffler? From the pictures I have seen, it looks like the hose runs too
low to enter a lift muffler.Pete
On 5/24/2010 8:44 AM, Silver Heels wrote:
Quote:Abaft the engine.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
nice! I also have to fashion a round about turn for the beta engine.
Thanks for the pictures.On 5/24/2010 6:51 AM, Silver Heels wrote:
Quote:Rich,That would be an impossible bend on my Yanmar 4JH4E, especially with the
very heavy-duty hose the mechanic used. There simply isn’t enough room
beneath the manifold. Check out what he did instead (attached photos).
Pretty clever and nicely executed.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
PS. I have a scan of the manual if you need it.
Pete
On 5/23/2010 5:29 PM, Linus Martinez wrote:
Guys
I have the old Grunert 12 volt refrigeration that requires that you have shore power or the engine running to come on. When I replaced the Crow converter that served as a battery charger since 1979 I replaced it with an inverter. It makes sense to me that I should just hook the sense wires to the 110 out side of the inverter. Does anyone have experience with this style of hook up?
Help I need to get the beer cold!
Linus
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Linus,
I have a Grunert AR-50 system for my 12V refrigeration. This uses a
Blissfield CE compresssor which is rated at 1/2 HP (thus the “50” in
AR-50 methinks).aThe factory schematic calls for both the 120VAC relay and the oil
pressure switch. Both were removed by PO on my system. I have a
breaker on the main panel for this refrigerator and just use common
sense about managing the battery. It draws about 35AMP if I recall
correctly. I think the relay and oil pressure switch are silly. After
all, it is a _sail_ boat.I also have a SensiStat on the system (which I invented and first tested
on my boat). It automatically tops up the plates when the engine is
running which saves on the running time you might have just to charge
the batteries because the refrigeration compressor ran while the engine
did not. It also provides a much higher (precision) degree of control
compared to the mechanical thermostat. Also provides a digital display
of the actual temperature in the box. The newest version of the
SensiStat also has an over-temperature alarm built-in.Pete
On 5/23/2010 5:29 PM, Linus Martinez wrote:
Guys
I have the old Grunert 12 volt refrigeration that requires that you have shore power or the engine running to come on. When I replaced the Crow converter that served as a battery charger since 1979 I replaced it with an inverter. It makes sense to me that I should just hook the sense wires to the 110 out side of the inverter. Does anyone have experience with this style of hook up?
Help I need to get the beer cold!
Linus
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor,
First – enjoyed your article in the new BWS. Bags of concrete….argh.
(First article of my restoration series appears in next month’s issue).I built up a unit starting with a Kubota 6hp diesel that I marinized and
added a 200AMP alternator which I had built up by a local auto electric
shop that builds them for a fire truck finishing shop here in Colorado.
Then I added an AmplePower regulator and a scuba compressor with an
electric clutch. The amplepower reg has an input that shifts the field
current down when I turn on the scuba compressor clutch. This lets me
keep about breakeven on the 12V usage while running the scuba compressor
but also allocating most of the horse power to the compressor.I am installing where the fuel tank used to be and have built a
fiberglass fuel tank into the hull under the salon sole. Just
finishing that up now. I will post pictures on it all soon.Pete
On 5/19/2010 10:14 AM, Silver Heels wrote:
Quote:Pete,What 6HP 12V generator/scuba compressor do you have? Gas or diesel? What it
the charging amps output?Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rich,
My boat has dual systems: engine and 12V. They are completely
independent in that the plates have separate dual coils in them, so the
only common failure point would be a hole punched in the holding plate.I use the engine when the engine is running and 12V the rest of the
time. So I never run the engine just for refrigeration. Also will
never run the engine just to charge batteries now that I have the 6HP
12V generator/scuba compressor setup.All the best,
Pete
On 5/18/2010 9:31 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Pete
I replaced my Tecumseh compressor with a sanden type compressor with
rotolock valves. The techumseh is an old design and has reliablity
problems. The sanden runs smoother and is more reliable. The rotolock
valves make it a drop-in plumbing replacement, but the mounting hardware is
a little different. Something to consider if you ever have problems with
your compressor.The engine-driven system works great when it works. I can come down to the
boat with a warm frig and start the engine. An hour later the beer is
ice-cold; yes, the mountains are blue. It’s the difference between a
fractional horsepower 12v system and a 3hp engine-driven system. Hope yours
works as well. The drawback is of course maintenace. These engine-driven
systems are about as reliable as an automotove air-conditioning system.
That’s effectively what they are. How many 30 year old cars are there on
the road with working AC systems? Another drawback is that you have to run
your engine every day even if you are tied to a dock and have shore-power.
I’m almost never tied to a shore-power cord, so its not an issue for me.Regards
RichQuote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thanks
On May 18, 2010, at 7:44 PM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Engine rotation is almost always expressed as the direction it
rotates when
looking at the front of the engine – in other words with the auxiliary
equipment end, in our case, the alternator and water pump. It is as if
you’ve opened the hood of your car and looked at the engine.Just like the starboard side of a boat is always the side to the
right when
looking forward.The W58 rotates in the counter-clockwise direction.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
It is the old Tecumseh compressor from the Rich Beers Technicold
system that I am mounting on the new Beta 50. I looked up the
compressor and apparently the rotation does not matter even though the
clutch normally specifies a direction of rotationOn May 18, 2010, at 7:58 PM, “Rich Carter” <>
wrote:Quote:Pete
I didn’t know the clutches cared. I don’t think mine does but you
must have
something different. Is this a new engine-driven system or an
original
Grunert being repaired?Regards
RichQuote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
thanks.
On 5/18/2010 1:36 PM, Chuck Ruble wrote:
Engine ‘rotation’ is as viewed from behind the engine (the end with the
transmission). The W60 rotates clockwise. Would bet your W58 does too.On Tue, May 18, 2010 at 3:24 PM, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
Agreed, but the clutch on it does care. The leaf springs should run in
such a way that they are in tension rather than compression.Now though I am also wondering if I have the tranny set correctly for the
rotation…Pete
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Agreed, but the clutch on it does care. The leaf springs should run in
such a way that they are in tension rather than compression.Now though I am also wondering if I have the tranny set correctly for
the rotation…Pete
On 5/18/2010 12:12 PM, wrote:
Quote:Your compressor shouldn’t care which way it turns. Mine doesn’t care.Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
