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When facing the pulley straight on, if the top turns to the right, it
would be turning clockwise.On 5/18/2010 11:42 AM, norris larson wrote:
Quote:When I lay on the engine to access the stern-facing front-end I notice that the belts rotate from my left to my right, i.e., clockwise. However, if the engine were mounted with the front end facing the bow, the rotation would be counter-clockwise. What exactly do you mean by “clockwiseâ€John,
Thanks. Also on the pearson drop page is a picture of my tranny with
with brake in place. Are you perhaps suggesting replacing the whole
pad assembly? On my brake, the pads are free (loose) rectangular blocks
of material.Pete
On 5/16/2010 7:31 PM, John Sommer wrote:
Quote:I have uploaded the picture…..
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They are itty bitty tiny like 1/2″ x 1.5″ That does not seem like a
Volvo brake pad.On 5/14/2010 12:57 PM, John Sommer wrote:
Quote:You can get them at napa….I think they are volvo break pads. Just
bring one and they can match them up.
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The pads in my brake are rectangular. Anyone seen replacements for them?
On 5/13/2010 11:11 AM, wrote:
Quote:I saved this link. Its not my discovery.
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/4-489.html?id=rvr6Qc98
Rich
Original Message
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It’s a bear to get to… even with the engine out…
Pete
On 5/13/2010 10:19 AM, norris larson wrote:
On the fresh water cooling system, has anyone ever replaced the short hose connecting the lower thermostat housing to the fresh water pump-bypass? The lower clamp connecting the hose to the pump seems to be inaccessible and I don’t see how it can be done without removing the fresh water pump. My parts list shows the hose as P/N 24415.
Norris Larson on Easy Reach, #206
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Thanks
On May 12, 2010, at 9:31 AM, wrote:
Quote:Peter
As I recall, that recess was originally used for the engine shut-off
pull cable handle. There were no buttons or switches there. The
engine key and glow-plug button were under the starboard lazarette
cover. I would guess everyone’s relocated the stuff by now. I
suggest doing a web-search for pull-cables. Someone probably still
stocks the thing.Rich
Original Message
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Anyone have an idea on where to find an extra one of those recessed
panels (boxes) that holds the start and glow buttons?(SSi sells a huge one, I just want one of the small ones)
Thanks,
Pete
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Fattening solution…
On 5/12/2010 4:21 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:My SO uses a PRINGLES can that is kept in the corner of the head to keep the used sheets of TP. Works well.
alan— On Tue, 5/11/10, John Stevenson<> wrote:
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All correct John….
Thanks,
Pete
On 5/11/2010 10:54 AM, John Stevenson wrote:
Lee,
I think Pete Dubler has a WC Skipper head for sale. IMO that’s is the best
flushing marine toilet ever made. A friend had one on his Cabo Rice. It’s
nearly indestructible. Next to that, I agree the PH II is a good option.
Even better option is to do away with all that plumbing and go with a
composting head. I believe that is the reason Pete has the Skipper for
sale.On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 12:26 PM, Jack P Clarke<>wrote:
Lee I think that you can buy direct from Raritan.
Jack
Xanadu IVOn Tue, May 11, 2010 at 11:54 AM, Robert Fine<> wrote:
Hi Lee,
I agree with Jack. The Raritan PH II works and works and works.
Rebuilding
is easy, the kit is about $60, and I’m very happy with it.I’ve had the PH II on my last three boats including this one. I actually
replaced the Jabsco one on my Ranger with the Raritan but at that time,
they
were only $150 or so.Apparently, the price of pooping has become astronomical. They run much,
much more now. I suspect the theory is that you’re going to poo –there’s
nothing you can do about it. So we (Raritan) can charge what we want!
Muahhahahahahaha!Still, it’s a good head and it can be electrified.
Bob
On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 11:29 AM, Jack P Clarke<
wrote:
Hi Lee,
We have a Raritan PH II that works very well for us and we have beenliving
aboard for four years with no problems (knock on wood). It came with
the
boat and I put a kit in it right away.
Jack
Xanadu IVOn Tue, May 11, 2010 at 11:12 AM, Lee Yonkers<>
wrote:
I need a new head. The cheap Jabsco that was on the boat just isn’t
acceptable. Any recommendations?Lee
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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I have a Wilcox Crittendren Skipper head for sale. Best head (huge
joker valve) ever made but with the new laws, I am planning to go to a
composting head. Also have full rebuild kit for it.Also have an Electro-san up for sale.
Pete
On 5/11/2010 9:12 AM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
I need a new head. The cheap Jabsco that was on the boat just isn’t acceptable. Any recommendations?
Lee
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You can get the bearings, o-rings, and seals at a local bearing shop
(just take then in for matching and buy two sets while you are at it)
and then just order the wedge from Depco. Hopefully you don’t need a
new shaft.Pete
On 5/11/2010 8:55 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi,
I’ve got to rebuild my raw water pump on the W58. Anyone know which
Sherwood pump it is so I can get the right major rebuild kit?Thanks!
Bob
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certainly have… several times.
On 5/11/2010 8:41 AM, Chuck Ruble wrote:
Pete, have you removed the power to the Xantrex yet? This will force a
reset on the inverter charger and monitor. I do this by disconnecting all
my battery grounds.On Mon, May 10, 2010 at 10:15 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
My Heart Freedom 25 is no longer lighting the status lights on the Link
2000 (like AC in, Float, etc LEDs). The Link does turn the invert mode on
and off. I have replaced the cable with a known good cable.Anyone have any suggestions (preferably based on actual experience) or can
anyone help me with finding a schematic for the Freedom 25?Many thanks.
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Thanks for the clues. I found the folks at Xantrex to be largely
useless. They prefer support calls to come in via email and then they
don’t reply. The phone support is pretty weak for diagnostics. I
have a lot of fiberglass dust all over so I probably should plan to
clean out the Freedom.Thanks again.
Pete
On 5/10/2010 9:05 PM, hs wrote:
Quote:Pete — Start with Xantrex, 800-670-0707. The Freedom 25 has two circuit boards (power supply& rectifier pack). I replaced both several years ago. Get the parts by calling rec. vehicle dealers, as they are common in that application. I made the mistake of equalizing my house batteries and not providing LOTS of ventilation in the locker. The Freedom 25 fans sucked in acidic gases from the batteries and coated the circuit boards. They failed.Your problem may be with the Link 2000. Mine started acting flaky. I found a blown capacitor& replaced it. It worked, but occasionally ‘got confused’. I replaced the Link 2000 and everything’s fine. Xantrex may be able to help you focus on which unit is defective. If not, try calling larger recreational vehicle dealers and talk with a tech. Good luck. Hank S. SHAY #80
— On Mon, 5/10/10, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
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Bob,
I think you may have MEK confused with Methylene Chloride
(dichloromethane). MEK is considered to be a very safe solvent and
safer than acetone as it is absorbed much slower through the skin.
There was a very long study of workers in a “dewaxing plant” who used
MEK and there was no increase in incidence of cancer. Methylene
Chloride on the other hand is very dangerous. Inhaled or ingested, it
can attach to hemoglobin when oxygen is supposed to attach, thus tying
up the hemoglobin. I believe this is the same mechanism that carbon
monoxide poisoning but it is more tenacious than CO. People have used
methylene chloride paint strippers during the day and died the same
night from heart attacks due to the lack of O2 in their blood.Here are some links to more info:
http://www.epa.gov/ttn/atw/hlthef/methylen.html
http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/chemicals/chem_profiles/mek/health_mek.html#_1_6
(this one discussed the “dewaxing plant” study)
http://des.nh.gov/organization/commissioner/pip/factsheets/ard/documents/ard-ehp-33.pdfPete
On 5/9/2010 10:09 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Joe,
I agree MEK is a better solvent. But MEK is also extremely toxic and is
linked to all sorts of unpleasant cancers (as opposed to the fun ones). If
you use MEK, make sure you’re using chemical resistant gloves and real
breathing protection that include VOC filters (activated charcoal). MEK is
nothing to fool with. It is readily absorbed through the skin.The fast evaporation for me is a good thing as the surface is ready to work
sooner. Also, rather than having two solvents (one for thinning epoxy and
MEK), I just use the one.Everyone makes their own decisions about what to use; both solvents will do
the job. I’ve found that using mineral spirits still requires a quick wipe
with acetone afterwards.Bob
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Bob,
All very good advice. I would add to do a wipe down first so you don’t
sand any wax into the fiberglass. Always wipe down before sanding.Pete
On 5/9/2010 7:30 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Rich,
Your plan is perfect – for the cracks in the gel coat below the water line,
use an old style can opener (beer can opener) and trace all the cracks. Make
sure you get to the bottom of the crack or to the underlying fiberglass.
Don’t worry about going through the gel coat. Make sure they are clean and
dry.I usually then make a paste of epoxy and colloid powder (West 404) and use
it like Bondo. Fill the cracks that you’ve opened up and let set – after
it’s totally hard, sand and wipe really well with acetone. You have to get
the wax off or the barrier coat won’t stick. Smoothness isn’t all that
important as the barrier coat does a pretty good job filling small
scratches.Then do the barrier coat as you’ve described. You’ll have a perfect
bottom.Bob
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