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Home depot. One hole for shower mixer valve, the other for shower hose outlet.
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Clairebuoyant #132

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We used our old shrouds and Norseman fittings. They were too old to hold the mast, and too good to throw away. The 5/16″ diameter is comfortable to lean against, and fits the stanchion hole, and does not chafe. A bit heavy, but the price was right.
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Hi Aaron-
OK, pics of the locker and DC genset when I get south enough to get warm.
There has to be a balance between projects and actually sailing. This year I did too much projects, and not enough sailing. Damn near made me crazy.
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Rich-
We have no list, but due I suppose to four GC’s, a saddle tank and a 11 gallon hwh on port side. Fully laden for the winter, we at almost on the bootstripe, however. Had batteries where you do fwd of the sump, but moved them to install a legal holding tank.
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Hi Pete-
There is a lot of history in the site and the bulletins on the fuel tank problem. Since you have to move the engine to get the tank out, many opt for a new tank. We repaired ours with several layers of fiberglass and West epoxy. This is ABYC legal if you have an aluminum tank, but not for a steel tank. There should be no fittings on the tank bottom.
The theory is that staples under the tanks eat holes in them. Our tank clearly failed from the inside, where water and/or debris settled. All but the bottom was intact. I suppost that if you could find someone willing to weld on a used fuel tank, it would be repairable. I couldn’t find anyone, even after I power washed it.
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Clairebuoyant

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Thatcher-
I expect to be inside to SC, then decide. Claire wants to see Savanna, but definitely outside down FL.
Tor-
Good advice keeping batteries low and out of the ends. We also have four GC’s stuffed in qtr berth aft space. Also keeps battery cables nice and short. We did find that water and battery acid damaged the plywood in the original battery boxes. Pearson really wasted space on the battery boxes.
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Clairebuoyant

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We removed the battery boxes leaving enough of the base to mount a dc genset in a box there. Also installed a saddle tank just outboard, and installed a shelf aft to the transom to support a box with four GC batteries.
It’s pretty crowded in the stb lazerette, but it leaves the aft lazarette empty for access and stowage.
Leaving Annapolis Saturday for points south. Currently stuck as this NW wind has blown away the water and left us stuck in the slip!
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Clairebuoyant #132

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Just yesterday addressing the exhaust issue on Clairebuoyant. Same situation, but with our W-58, exhaust comesoff forward (boat) end of engine, and muffler and exhaust both on port side. Found a nice bronze Apollo 2″ valve at ChesapeakeMarine Fasteners (Fawcetts) and thread to hose connectors at Defender. Will install just inside transom.
Heading down ICW middle of next week. Anyone else going south?
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Clairebuoyant, #132

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Rich-
We had Clairebuoyant’s bottom done in 1990 as part of a bigger job of repairing structure and painting topsides. They disk sanded off all the gelcoat and replaced it with two layers of mat in blister resistent polyester resin. It has held up well with minimal haulouts since, no additional blisters. She only dried out a few weeks.
My mistake was putting a few coats of Interlux epoxy barrier coat on over the new bottom. The Interlux people recommended this as a way to get the Micron to stick. It worked, the Micron ablative paint stuck really great to the barrier coat, but the new bottom is blowing off the barrier coat in some places. Interlux now recommends several years of curing before you barrier coat over a new bottom.
My advice is just to fill the blisters and sail on. Spend the money elsewhere. Most of the guys doing blister jobs here in Annapolis only give short warrenties anyway.
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Don-
Assuming that both boats have the original engines, the 422 has a Westerbeke 58, and at hull #124, you probably have a Westerbeke 60. Clairebuoyant #132, has a three blade, fixed “sailor” prop, 18 x 12. With a clean bottom , it is about right, a little smoke at full throttle.
If you have a W-60, a bit more diameter is probably right. There is plenty of W-60 discussion on this site, and I defer to those who own a W-60.
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Tor-
I’ve got doubts about using PVC below the waterline. The ABYC standard for through hull stuff is lateral loading. Basically, if you can’t stand on it sidewise against the hull without it breaking, it does not meet the standard. Steve D’Antonio covered this in an Ocean Navigator article a couple months ago.
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Clairebuoyant was a Florida boat when we got her. The tube which if memory serves is 3/8″ copper tubing, was corroded through, so it’s not just freezing that will do it. You will need to remove the plywood shelf in the port quarter to get to the vulnerable spot.
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Big. Suggest that you give up some of the space in favor of more insulation.
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Clairebuoyant #132

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Hi Jim-
I’d like to see pictures, too. Especially interested in how you reenforced the structure to support the solar panels.
Best regards,
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Probably the one, but I’ll go measure to be sure. That will be tomorrow as it is raining hard (Hannah) as I write. Claire decided that she wanted both the big burner, and the ability to put a big pot on the stove. Seems to be a good choice.
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