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Dan-
We own Clairebuoyant #132. We replaced the original stove with a 3 burner Force 10. It sticks out a couple inches further, but is a substantial improvement. The two burner F-10 would fit a bit better.
We had to shim the gimbel mounts, and move the stainless steel bar in front a bit, nothing major.
I’d also revisit the propane delivery system. For some reason ours had two solinoid valves, one at the tank, and one at the galley. The copper tubing was getting a bit long in the tooth. We replaced it all with a preassembled propane hose, and also replaced the regulator as well. We now have one solinoid valve in the tank locker, and unbroken hose line to the stove.
Also check the copper drain line from the bottom of the tank locker to the transom drain. At least two boats, including mine have had this line corrode through, opening the interior of the boat to propane vapor. You will have to remove some plywood to trace this line all the way through, but it fails where you can’t see it easily.
Finally, in the port cockpit locker, forward there is a spot where the propane line, electric lines and the bolts on the lifeline stanchion base are close together. Check here for corrosion on the propane line and chafe on the wiring.
Hope this helps.
Quent
Edgewater, MDWe did. Used Formica laminate over existing surface after removing trim. In retrospect, I’d remove entire top, insulate top of box, and use better material, like Corian.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132Hi Rich-
Thanks for the advice and the manual. Probably, I’m overstudying these issues.
Can you recommend a good source for an SWR meter?
Regarding the diodes, the guys who build the Genie series DC gensets, similar to mine which I think is by Jack Rabbit, recommend external diodes even with a well ventilated box. It seems to work, as about 10% of the alternator output goes out in heat at the diodes, the extra holes in the case keep the stator and rotor cooler, and the diodes obviously don’t make any noise outside the box. I’m using the original button diodes in some aluminum angle as a heat sink, but I can’t get them pressed in tight enough. Stud diodes bolt in. Mouser doesn’t have anything big enough. Ebay occasionally has them, but the part specs are a bit confusing.
QuentPatrick-
Assuming you have the Westerbeke 58 engine, and no obvious leaks in the cooling system, it is likely that some air was trapped in the engine cooling passages when they reworked the heat exchanger. If your boat is like ours (#132) there is a water heater at the forward end of the port lazerette. The hose for the expansion tank branches off the hose from the engine to the hot water heater.
I would add a couple inches of water/coolant to the expansion tank, and see if it again goes away. If not, then you just displaced some air. If it does empty again, look for a leak around the hose connections.
You might also carefully, with the engine running, try venting any remaining air from the petcocks on the upper thermostat housing, and the exhaust manifold.
QuentRich-
A couple electrical questions I hope you can help me with:
I’m still working on a ground plane. It is tied to the internal keel ballast, and to copper sheathing against the hull bottom. I’ve read that tying the ground plane to the stern pulpit and lifelines also helps. Question is, is there any danger of RF burns from the ground plane when transmitting?
Second question:
I’ve installed a DC genset in a box in the stb cockpit locker. For cooling purposes, I’ve removed the diodes to outside the box, but I’d like to redo them with more heavy duty stud diodes. Any idea for a reasonable source of large amp diodes? Alternator is rated at 160 amps output.
Thanks,
QuentAbout 1500 hours on our 1981 W-58. She runs fine, starts easy but we replaced the exhaust manifold and upper and lower t-stat housings. They were aluminum and went bad because PO didn’t replace antifreeze often enough. !980 is early for a w-58 in a P-424. Suggest you contact Westerbeke by e-mail with engine serial number. They can tell you if it is original to hull.
QuentRegarding loosening the packing gland, try turning the gland nut first, not the locking (lower one) nut. Once the top nut is loose, the locking nut will move more easily.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132Bob-
Depends on if you have a W-60, or the later W-58. Westerbeke told me that Pearson specified Warner Velvet Drive 71c trans on all W-58 engines.
This is still available new or rebuilt and is based on the old Chevy Powerglide. Here is a link that I’ve found useful for both the trans and the Walter V-drive:
http://www.marinegears.com/catalog/cat.html
Ask for Mark.
QuentMaybe it’s an older “wave grip” model. Try this link to Pyacht.com
http://www.pyacht.com/online-store/scstore/graphics/Lew_WG_30st.gifQuent
If you are talking about the cast aluminum Bomar ports on 1981 and later, they are (probably) available new from Hamilton Marine in Maine, at outrageous cost. However, as Rich touched on, the used ones are easily rebuildable with lexan and new gaskets. I’ve seen them in piles at Bacon’s here in Annapolis. I’ve even got a few here in the garage, both small and long sizes.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132We might be crossing back and forth here between the Westerbeke 60 and the Westerbeke 58. These are two different engines. Someone said a while back that the W-60 might be related to the London taxi engine, and built by Perkins.
The W-58 is a later model. The design is based on the Mazda XA, an industrial engine used in some forklifts. However the design was licensed to Perkins, who used it in various industrial applications, and who probably sold base engines to Westerbeke for the W-58 as they did for the W-60. I acquired (cheap) a gasket set for the Mazda XA, but none fit the W-58 that I have dissassembled in the garage.
The W-58 starter is an interesting situation. If you look at W’s parts book on line, they show a substitution for the original Westerbeke starter to ARCO #12101, but still the original $600+! If you google ARCO 12101, they are easy to find for about $250.
Quentdid this thing come off a boat or something?”
This, and this alone, is the difference between $700 and $140.
QuentThat’s just silly. Do they make them out of gold? I’m not a W-60 person, but the water pump pulleys on the W-58 are pretty generic. Could you find a W-60 suitable pulley at a hardware store?
Quent
