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quent
ParticipantLee-
Are you talking about the backstay chainplate, the reenforcement of the transom, or the actual backstay?
Quentquent
ParticipantHey Pete-
Could I use one Sensi-stat to control both my freezer and frig, they have independent t-stats and solinoid valves, or would I need two of them?
Have you heard of a device called a Nanopulser? I had a bad experience with one. Really accelerated corrosion of my battery cable ends, and diminished the capacity of a set of golf cart batteries I was using.
How about a special deal on Sensi-stat for sailors smart enough to own P-424s?
Quentquent
ParticipantLee-
If you have not already done, I suggest both Kollmann’s and Caulder’s books on refrigeration.
We have a 1/2 hp 12volt system driving both a freezer between sink and stove, and a frig in the normal spot. One Dole holding plate in freezer, two in the frig. IMHO, success is all about insulation. Add as much as possible.
We have two of three of your wish list on condenser. It is mounted under the qtr berth, so it is not quiet. Water cooling pump is stb, just aft of the v-drive. System runs 2-3 times at night, which I like to monitor, but this is not for everyone. It is reasonably efficient, and quite powerful.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132quent
ParticipantJohn and Patrick-
Thank you! It worked! You guys are wonderful!!!
Best regards,
Quentquent
ParticipantLee-
I was lucky to find a new case for our v-drive from a FL dealer, but new or good used ones are difficult to find and then you are into cost of new seals and other parts. Some successfully run without cooling. However you need to be sure that the case has not rusted through between cooling passage and gearcase contaminating the oil.
Best cheap fix would be a used fresh water only RV-20 if you can find one, but if you are going offshore, IMHO, go for a new v-drive
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132quent
ParticipantJohn-
I agree with Rich. It also depends on how dependent you are on 12 volt power. We have a refrig/freezer that needs serious battery power. If this is your situation, then it make sense to carry a similar and plug in replacement for both alternator and regulator. If not, look around for a gently used OEM alternator. So many people upgrade that they are not that hard to find.
Speaking of alternators, I discovered last week that a blown fuse in the battery voltage sense wire will shut off field current fron a Balmar MC 612 regulator without generating any error codes.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132quent
ParticipantMe too.
Quentquent
ParticipantOne final suggestion, then I’m done. Use high strength fasteners, not stainless steel, for the alternator bolts if you upgrade the alternator. Stainless is just not strong enough, esp. the 5/16″ bolts usually found on the adjustment arm. I use grade 8 steel fasteners after breaking two stainless bolts.
Quentquent
ParticipantHi Tor-
A couple things you might consider:
Regarding belts, size it for your peak load. When your battery bank is nearly discharged, if you have a big bank,or high tech batteries with a high acceptance rate, it will require a high horsepower draw from your engine. I have two 100 amp alternators driven by one Balmar MC 612 regulator, and the load when it produces 150+ amps really loads the engine, a W-58. If you make a single belt tight enough to not slip, the side loading on the bearings will be a factor.
My experiance with the Xantrex regulators is not good. I fried two of them in short order. The Balmar is holding up just fine.
We mounted one alternator in place of the standard, the other where the frig compressor used to be 180 degrees away, which balances the sideloading.
Be sure that the alternator is rated hot and sufficient for your needs. Many automotive alternators will not hold up under sustained heavy loads.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132quent
ParticipantAdam-
Call uyour boat insurance company or Boat US insurance, and ask for a nmae of a SAMS/NAMS member marine surveyor. Have the surveyor bring in arigger/engineer as a consultant as necessary. Don’t have some rigger guessing about damage that may be pretty well concealed from the untrained eye.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132quent
ParticipantWell, the truth is that the built in washer does not diminish the utility and convenience of coin operated w/d in marinas as we freeze our way through NC and SC on our way to allegedly warm FL. We have yet to run the washer. I’m hoping it will run off our 2kw inverter, like the mixer and the food processer and the hair dryer.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, lying Georgetown, SCNovember 16, 2008 at 7:42 pm in reply to: Efficient Use of storage bin on left of head vanity #71102quent
ParticipantWasher is Haier #XQBM22C Top section comes off a couple inches below the lid, everything hangs on springs from top. We cut a couple in section from bottom, screwed/caulked it into a hole in counter then just reinstalled the top section. Installed access port in front, ran drain hose to shower, hook up for water fits faucet in basin. Pics when I find some broadband.
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Clairebuoyant, lying CarolinaBeach, NCNovember 13, 2008 at 6:05 pm in reply to: Efficient Use of storage bin on left of head vanity #71073quent
ParticipantI guess we mght qualify as the most bazaar. We cut a hole in the countertop snd installed a small electric clother washer from Sam’s Club.
Quent
Clairebuoyantquent
ParticipantAlsa, regrets to Oriental. We flew by at 9AM today. The wind was so good, and with rain in the forcast, we decided to make south today. Currently lying Morehead City. Hope to visit Oriental on return in the Spring. You guys have a great winter!
Quentquent
ParticipantHi Jack-
Thanks for the great info. We are anchored in Bonner Bay, about 18 miles from Oriental, so we willbe there early tomorrow, maybe! We will try the free dock, then the anchorage, then a marina.
Loveto see MOJO and compare notes!
Regards,
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