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Thanks, Paul. There is a store 17 miles away. Some of the seals look very close to what we need. I’ll try them after the McMaster-Carr seals arrive, and report back.
QuentUh, the Spicer part # I gave you was for the two U-joints internal to the V-drive. I think that you are talking about the one between the drive shaft and the transmission.
Let us know what the part number is, we have not replaced that part- Yet!
QuentThe seals in both pumps are “mechanical seals” which resemble small versions of the packless versions of propeller shaft seals like Lasdrop and PYI. They have a seal and a seat that rotate face to face, with a spring to push them together. I’m reluctant to substitute an oil seal design since either pump can incapacitate the engine if water reaches the bearings. I’m still having no luck finding a local source, at least local enough with almost $4 gas!
McMaster-Carr sells a $9.50 seal that looks like it might fit the RW pump if I use the old spring. I ordered a couple and will report back when I get and try them.
QuentChuck-
The U-joints that I purchased from Transmission Marine in FL came in boxes from Spicer labeled “5-153X”.
Remove the oil seals, if any, before installing them. I would be interested in knowing if they are common automotive parts.
I’m assuming that you still have the original model RV-20 Walter V-drive.
Do you have the Walter manual?
QuentPaul/Pete-
Thanks for the reply and advice. I’m having a bit of trouble figuring out a bearing shop. There seems to be nothing local to Baltimore/Washington DC. The only sources I can find are Internet, and they only do bearings. Pump guys are just as much as Westerbeke. Can you recommend a specific source?
Thanks,
QuentRich-
Thanks for the reply. Old Pearson system, a “techcomsa” (SP?) compressor, large green receiver/heat exchanger assemby, two galvanized refrig cold plates is free, fob here. The other system, a Grunert with a Sankyo (or similar) compressor and one stainless steel holding plate, receiver, etc. is $200.
Both are R-12 systems and would need new expension valves, dryers, hoses, etc. As I read the books, these could be converted to R-134a or other legal refrigerant.
Alas, it is probably more than that to ship it to you.
QuentSince Rich and Walter have raised the subject, anyone out there want an engine drive system to refurbish or experiment with? I have two, an original to P-424 Grunert or Crosby, and a later model Grunert system.
Price is right, FOB Annapolis, MD.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132Aaron-
We replaced the engine mounts on our W-58 a couple years ago. They appeared to be the same as the W-60 mounts. The local Westerbeke dealer, Waterweay Marine, sold us Bushings Inc. mounts as replacements for the red ones.
A couple issues with these mounts, and if I had it to do over, I’d go with PYI or some more substantial brand. First, when we lifted the engine, the rubber pucks molded on the mounts slipped right out of the aluminum bases. The only thing holding the engine in place was gravity. This would be difficult in a knockdown as nothing would prevent the engine from rolling off its mounts. The dealer attributed this to oil or diesel getting on the mounts and softening the rubber part. Even with new mounts, I think a safety cable arrangement would be a good idea, esp. offshore.
The W-58 has an aluminum bellhousing and it is difficult to remove the engine mount studs from the bellhousing. For us, it took a hydraulic press and application of heat to the aluminum.
The recommended Bushings Inc. mounts are at the upper end of their designed for engine weight with a 700 pound W-58. I suspect the W-60 is at least that heavy.
You might consider replacing all four mounts if you go to the less expensive Bushings Inc. or other brand. If you do lift the trans end of the engine, disconnect the driveshaft at the transmission as the seal and the universal joints at the input end of the V-drive are easily damaged.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132Alan-
The length of the Walter RV-20 oil dipstick from the shoulder that fits against the top cover, to the “H” mark is about 9″. To the “L” mark is about 9-3/4″.
Quent Kinderman
Clairebuoyant #132There is a device called a tempering valve available at plumbing supply stores that mixes cold with hot water to reduce the temperature of the hot water at the faucet. We installed one at the hot water outlet of the water heater. It prevents the annoying sudden rise in temperature when someone else uses cold, and it also conserves the hot water supply.
Quent Kinderman
Clairebuoyant #132Bill-
We had the same issue on our 1981 sloop. We had a fiberglass guy here in Annapolis repair it. After removing the backstay and chainplate, He heated the transom with a propane space heater from inside until the transom was hot to the touch on the outside, then jacked the transom back in place with a hydraulic jack. When it cooled, the transom was back in the original position without cracking the laminate or gellcoat. He then reenforced the inside of the transom with more laminate, alternating mat and roven roving totalling about 3/8″ at the chainplate location, tapering to one layer at the edges. The patch covered approximately the center upper half of the transom. The thickest part of the patch (the top) also continued around the hull inside flange wher it attached to the deck. This part provides additional rigidity to the transom at the chainplate. It is important that the repair be tapered to avoid creating a hard edge and stress riser where the repair meets the original structure. We have had no further problems. Also important, the marine surveyor who looked at the boat agreed that it was properly fixed.A bit about the chainplate. Ours was close to failure. It had cracked through one side of the top bolt hole. In my opinion, Pearson’s use of flat head fasteners and the required beveled hole is inappropriate. It removes even more metal at the weakest point of the chainplate. We used hex head cap screws on the replacement chainplate, and did not bevel the holes. I think that it is prudent to remove and examine the chainplates and fasteners periodically. We do not bed the backstay chainplate as this would prevent oxygen from reaching the stainless steel.
Regarding stainless steel, the original chainplates were probably type 302 or 304, the most common type. This is known as Austinetic stainless, and has a high chromium content. There is a myth that type 316, also Austinitic but with some other stuff to make it more resistent to surface corrosion, is a “marine” metal. In fact, while it might stay pretty longer, it is just as subject to failure as the others, and has 10% less tensile strength. The problem in a nutshell, is stress corrosion cracking. Given the right combination of warm tenperatures, salt water, and cyclic stress, the metal will corrode along the grain structure and fail well below its rated strength. There is another stainless steel called Duplex which is basically a mixture of two different grain structures that does not have this problem.
Moving the backstay chainplates to the corners sounds like a pretty good idea. I can’t do it because we have too much stuff in that part or the hull to allow easy access. If I did, I’d add a second backstay of the same specs as the original and run one to each corner of the transom. If each part of the backstay can’t carry the entire load, then you just increase the risk of failure by adding more parts.
Best regards,
Quent Kinderman
Clairebuoyant #132Re bow reenforcement, and oil canning. Some years ago, the issue was raised in the NPYOA newsletter and Bill Shaw, the Pearson designer addressed it. I’ll see if I can find a copy. If I remember correctly, he recommended additional layup of a layer of mat, 1/2″ balsa core then a couple layers of mat and woven roving.
Quent Kinderman
Clairebuoyant, sloop, #132
