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Good morning, Tor!
Thanks for making my point. One system running everything. Human controlled refrig produces copious quantities of cold beer, causing software failures in other other systems, including autopilot default to constant bearing, running lights defaulting to off status, and bilge alarm defaulting to mute. Common on powerboats, but not unknown on sailboats.
A good bilge alarm available at Harbor Freight less than $10. Delete “bilge”, insert “basement”…
QHi Dennis
The idea of using arduino to control everything is interesting. I wonder however if this is robust enough for someone as software illiterate as myself, and if trusting one device to run everything is prudent.
We installed digital controls for our two Isotherm refrigeration systrms (Corel, rparts.com) fancy Balmar multistage voltage regulators for alternators, multiplexer integrating sailing instrument systems, a battery monitoring system, an autopilot servo, an instrument server, and a chartplotter/radar system. All are expensive (marine price!) stand alone devices. I’ve no illusions about these things not breaking, but I don’t think that they will all break at once.
Of course, something as simple as a loose alternator field wire can brick an expensive piece of gear’s soltware.
QuentHi Dennis
A while back, I tried to get an F W Murphy product called MeCan which translates guage sender and tach data into j1939 CAN data to talk to my C-80 chartplotter that Raymarine said spoke J1939, and had an engine data screen. Never got it to display data. MeCan might work with the VeeCan.
QuentHi Guys
A while back Rich found a source of engine instrument pedestal pods that were leftover products from Catalina. They are white and made by Navpod. Mount on pedestal below compass behind wheel. Holes precut for tach, three 2″ ignition key switch, several switches and lights. Room for a couple more guages. Bought one but never mounted it. $100?
QuentPrice difference is certainly a factor. If I remember correctly, the jackshaft is not stainless steel, so a little anti-sieze might be a good idea.
QHey Tor,
You got my curiosity up. To put the Shaft-loc on the jack shaft, did you have to dissemble the jack shaft? I installed one on the prop shaft between the flange at the v-drive and the PSS shaft seal. Required the 1.5″ model versus the 1″ model you used. Difficult to reach but actually plenty of room once it’s on the shaft.
Prop shaft turns at half the speed of jack shaft. Don’t really know if that’s an issue.
Alternatively, a feathering or folding prop would work. Also, from what I’ve read, the Warner velvet drive transmission is okay with freewheeling. Maybe not the other transmissions.
QuentHi Dan
Thanks for the information. There are a few places around here that appear to do mostly motorcycle and automotive jobs. I’ll take a couple extra ports I have and get a price.
l assume that yours are holding up okay?
Best regards,
QuentPaul
All the above is good advice. We also have used the PSS shaft seal a long time without any issues. The only reason for failure that I can think of would be set screws failing and the collar backing off. We have a hose clamp on the shaft against the collar to prevent this, a belt and suspenders strategy.
QuentWe have one in Clairebuoyant, basically two piano hinges and two sheets of 1/4″ plexiglass. You can see part of it in the picture on her yachtworld.com listing. Heck Bob, you don’t need to build one, I’ll give you mine for free. Just buy the rest of the boat…
Quent
SV Clairebuoyant, #132Well, actually there is a third point. The anchor platform bolts to a ledge built into the headstay chain plate/bow assembly.
Quent
