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  • in reply to: Impeller Grease #73290
    rdugger
    Participant

    Depcopump.com is a good source of products and information.

    Here is an article from their site (dated 2000 and written by someone from Jabsco) relating to impeller pumps
    http://www.depcopump.com/datasheets/pumpschool/PumpsAndSystemsArticle.pdf

    I purchased an impeller puller from them. It is expensive but it really makes pulling the impeller very easy on me and the impeller..

    Rick

    On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 8:59 AM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    I've found that Globe impellers, the blue ones, hold up better than the Sherwood ones, and are a little less expensive. Defender and Hamilton both have them to fit the W-58's rw pump.
    Quent

    Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    in reply to: Ladder #73249
    rdugger
    Participant

    I use one of these (a 1 step) for amidships dinghy to boat  – really works well…
    http://www.doylemarine.com/?action=quickstepcat
    I also use it to get up and down the transom after raising/lowering the dinghy

    We have a folding aluminum and plastic step (very wide and easy on the feet) that we use to board amidships after swimming.. The last 2-3 steps are below the water … makes it very easy to climb back in… we've had some very hefty folks use it and it has performed well… I don't recall the mfg…  it stores in a cockpit lazarette..

    Rick
    Eclipse

    On Thu, Jul 16, 2009 at 1:12 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    John you say on your site that you also have a fiberglass single step for use when boarding from a dinghy. Any pics of that?
     
    -p
     


    s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

    <.. snip>

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    in reply to: Re: Honda EU2000iA Portable Generator #72964
    rdugger
    Participant

    I use my Honda with a Heart 20A Charger/Inverter.
    When the batteries have been 25% depleted (600amp house bank) the generator ramps up pretty good and doesn't seem to have any problem handling the load…
    I have a 16,500 BTU Mermaid Marine A/C I installed on Eclipse.. For fun and giggles I've run it with the Honda for short periods of time just to see if I could… ran w/o incident.

    Rick
    Eclipse

    On Wed, Jun 24, 2009 at 5:38 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    Tor,
    I have the same charger, except mine is the 40A model.  The rating is indeed for the DC output of the charger not the AC input.  I have the Xantrex remote panel so I can monitor the output of the charger.  I have never seen the 40A output on the panel display.  Granted it is a simple LED display for 40, 20, 10, 5, .. amps, so accuracy is not to be expected.  Generally I see the 20A LED on when charging a depleted battery.  It drops down to 10A after about an hour, then slowly drops to whatever the service load is after that.  So, my guess is your 20A charger may put out 20A initially for a minute or so, but drops to 15A or less for the remainder of the charging cycle.  It would be interesting to know what Xantrex says about this, but we all know contacting Xantrex technical support is the definitiion of futility. 

    So I think you'll have a lot of unused capacity if you use the Honda to only run your charger.

    John

    On Wed, Jun 24, 2009 at 12:44 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    Hi Tor,

    You are correct – even if your charger can do 20 amps DC, in AC terms, it's like 2.5 amps (inefficiencies in all the stuff), but I'm sure the charger will output a great deal more for short periods of time.  In any case, though, the generator will suffice to power it.

    All my AC goes through my charger/inverter – it's rated, oddly, at 20 amps continuous, not 30 as you'd expect.  But I've never popped the breaker before the generator's breaker pops….

    Bob

    On Wed, Jun 24, 2009 at 10:07 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    Thanks for the mini-lesson, Bob. Perhaps it's like Bob Marley sang: “Every little thing gonna' be all right.”
     
    Still, I find it odd that the Owner's Manual specs for this Xantrex Truecharge 20, which came with my boat, say:
     
    Output Current        :  20 amps continuous duty
    Output Voltage, Charge:  13.8 – 14.8V DC (depending on setting)
    Output Voltage, Float :  13.1 – 14.2V DC (depending on setting)
    Input Voltage         :  (115VAC) 90-135VAC 48-62Hz
    Efficiency            :  85%

    Doesn't that appear to be saying this charger's output is 20 amps at 13.8 to 14.8V DC (depending on setting)? In other words, is it possible my 20 amp charger is not rated at 20 amps AC as yours seems to be, but at 20 amps DC? And if it is outputting 20 amps DC, then it seems a bit hopeful that a 16.7 amps maximum output from the Honda generator will be sufficient to power it.
     
    The one glimmer of hope is that the Honda's output seems to be 16.7 amps AC, and from what you say that is equal to around 167 amps DC. If that's the case, then it should be able to easily power half a dozen battery chargers like mine.
     
    Yes, no, maybe?

    Tor
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Silver Heels, P-424 #17
    http://www.SilverHeels.us
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    Quote:

    Original Message


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    in reply to: Honda EU2000iA Portable Generator #72927
    rdugger
    Participant

    We've had the Honda 2000 for 2 years.
    Bought it from Mayberry.
    It travels in the cockpit between the pedestal and mizzen mast covered by a plastic storage box from WallyMart (upside down). It has never slid around.
    We run it on the foredeck (all hatches and ports closed) or in the dinghy tided beside the boat (preferred).
    It always starts, is reasonably quiet and is efficient.

    Rick
    Eclipse

    On Sun, Jun 21, 2009 at 12:42 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    Hi Tor and Linus,

    Since I have every 30 amp to 20 amp/15 amp type of adapter known to man, I didn't get a 30amp connector one.  The other advantage is that for beach parties I can bring the generator and run ice makers/reefers/guitar amps and so forth where you'd need an adapter, so you don't save anything there.  But really, any small generator you go for will be fine.  You'd be surprised how much power the Xantrex will pour into the batteries – remember, the 20amps is 20 amps AC, not DC.  I've seen the 2000 put out 60+ amps DC loading the generator to about 12 amps.  Really, if your batteries are that dead you have other problems.

    I can also run the water heater with the 2000eu – but I have to turn off the charger.  Still, a couple hours run I've got hot water and fully charged batteries (3- 4Ds and a group 31).

    Linus, I generally put the generator up on the coach roof to run it.  I have run it on the cockpit seat, too, as long as there's a good breeze.  I've never died doing that.  The generator has a low oxygen shutdown, too, I think. 

    The only place I won't run it is on the bridge deck or in the cabin (duh).

    Good luck to both of you!  You'll be happy as heck with a. a generator, and b. the Honda if that's what you get.

    Bob

    On Sun, Jun 21, 2009 at 12:05 PM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    Those of you who use a Honda unit,  where do place it when you run it?  I think because the cockpit drains exit below the waterline they would not vent any CO.  I am thinking of using it on the swim platform but I am concerned about it being close to the salt water.  Maybe I should just shut up and go sailing for a while and figure it out.
     
    Linus

    <.. snip>

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    in reply to: Dry Ice and Ice Makers #72805
    rdugger
    Participant

    Elaine
    thanks
    Rick

    On Thu, Jun 4, 2009 at 11:05 AM, Elaine Patton < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    Rick,
     
    It works fine when the boat is not moving.  It is some off brand make from Home Depot for under $200.  We have it sitting on the cabinet of the head in the V berth.  We have to move it to access the hanging locker there, but we only stow things that we use occasionally in that locker.
     
    Elaine

    — On Thu, 6/4/09, Rick Dugger < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    <.. snip>

    Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    in reply to: Dry Ice and Ice Makers #72803
    rdugger
    Participant

    Elaine
    thanks
    does it work satisfactory in port/anchored?
    which make/model do you have ?
    Rick
    Eclipse #73

    On Thu, Jun 4, 2009 at 9:46 AM, Elaine Patton < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    We have a portable ice maker, however, you can only use it in port or anchored.  When we are sailing there is too much movement for the ice to freeze.
     
    Elaine Patton
    Bel Esprit II

    — On Wed, 6/3/09, Rick Dugger < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    <.. snip>

    Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    in reply to: Dry Ice #72801
    rdugger
    Participant

    Eclipse came with a bimini/dodger for the companion way…
    The top or bimini lives on it most of the time….
    Hard to egress with it up but it is doable… you can also unpin the back legs and swivel it back or fwd.. if you swivel it back it becomes somewhat of a wind scoop…

    The sides/front (with windows) goes in when weather is bad…

    Canvas snaps to the deck.

    Rick

    On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 1:20 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Walter, on his recent 6 month trip through the Caribbean, kept his Engel the whole time at the base of the Main Salon companionway. It seemed to work pretty good there, once you got used to the fact that you lost the bottom step of the ladder. 

    The ladder was also a good spot to tie it too when heading offshore, as it will want to move from there on starboard tack. The only real disadvantage of this location is when you get green water coming through the companionway when on this tack offshore. Speaking of which, has anybody made a snap on cover for the Main Salon companionway for use offshore. 
    “I have mine forward of the salon table on the starboard side.  I've also kept it against the forward bulkhead of the nav station as well.  I have 12v sockets installed in both places.

    Bob”

    Paul

    Chesapeake for a couple of weeks.
    We leave Friday for a clockwise DelMarVa circumnavigation.
    Our refrigerator on the boat works great but we have very limited freezer space.
    The Admiral was considering using dry ice to extend the time we could have some meats on board. The brochure on dry ice says don't use it in a working refrigerator…. anybody know why?
    Rick
    Eclipse #73


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    —
    Bob Fine
    s/v Pelican
    Hull #8

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    in reply to: Dry Ice #72793
    rdugger
    Participant

    Pat
     
    Thanks…. 
    we definitely won't try it then…
    Rick

    On Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 9:38 PM, pat noordsij < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    I know ! I know!!   pick me!!!

    We did this once..  Froze the refrigerant right up.  Really hard on the compressor.  Made nothing cold for several days.  The system did recover and we felt like idiots once we realized what we had done.

    Use the dry ice in a good cooler —- then transfer the rock hard contents to your nice (not overly) cold freezer.

    – pat

    On 6/2/09 7:54 PM, Rick Dugger wrote:

    Going cruising in the Chesapeake for a couple of weeks.
    We leave Friday for a clockwise DelMarVa circumnavigation.
    Our refrigerator on the boat works great but we have very limited freezer space.
    The Admiral was considering using dry ice to extend the time we could have some meats on board. The brochure on dry ice says don't use it in a working refrigerator…. anybody know why?
    Rick
    Eclipse #73


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    in reply to: Refrigeration – 3 lids #72613
    rdugger
    Participant

    Some previous owner had the 3rd lid cut in. Unfortunately I don't know how it was done.
    Since those pictures were taken, I have converted the two inboard lids into one lid. This new double-wide lid is hinged forward. The Admiral says its easier to get the Captain's beer out…

    On Mon, May 4, 2009 at 11:46 AM, norris larson < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    To Richard Drugger,
     
    What tool(s) did you use to ut out the third lid? I asked two different carpenters to look at your photos and my existing two lid box and both declined to the work claiming they couldn't see how to do a good job. One said that cutting through the top to make an opening could shatter the plastic covering the insulation.
     
    Norris Larson, Easy Reach, #206 (I had been noting #203, but I discovered that is incorrect).

    — On Tue, 8/14/07, Richard Dugger2 < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    <.. snip>

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    in reply to: oil-canning #71769
    rdugger
    Participant

    Bob,

    Why would you say that a crack in the hull is associated with an unattached stringer?

    The prevailing thought at the marina was that hull flexing at the rigid area of the floor caused the cracking.

    Rick

    On Wed, Feb 11, 2009 at 8:05 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    Hi Rick,

    That looks as if the stringer inside below the cabin sole has become unattached. That's a seriously difficult thing to fix unless your arms are four feet long.

    Bob

    On Tue, Feb 10, 2009 at 10:44 PM, Rick Dugger < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    Sorry to come into this discussion so late..
    I would like to point out other damage that can occur with flexing of the hull ..
    Longitudinal cracks on the exterior hull in the area of the V berth floor.

    I am aware of three 424's in the Southern Chesapeake that have experienced this phenomenon. Two have been repaired and mine (the 3rd) has not been repaired.

    When the hull has a good coat of paint, the cracks can be very difficult to see. These cracks were not identified during our survey.

    Attached is a photo of Eclipse when she was trucked to my home for a refit. If you look closely you can see the cracks just aft of the bow jackstand and forward of the hydraulic arm.

    'Mobjack Pearl' is a Pearson 424 whose owner made the Bermuda rally a couple of years ago… he experienced the oil-canning phenomenon (including failure of the v berth shelves) when beating on the return trip.

    Rick
    Eclipse #73

    On Sat, Feb 7, 2009 at 7:28 PM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    Its my understanding that later hulls are balsa-cored. I don't know when Pearson switched to cored hulls. In theory, this would provide a stiffer hull. I doublt that it would prevent the oil-canning problem since the forward hull section is flat. I would still recommend reinforcing the forward sections.

    Rich

    Quote:
    <.. snip>

    Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    in reply to: oil-canning #71793
    rdugger
    Participant

    Sorry to come into this discussion so late..
    I would like to point out other damage that can occur with flexing of the hull ..
    Longitudinal cracks on the exterior hull in the area of the V berth floor.

    I am aware of three 424's in the Southern Chesapeake that have experienced this phenomenon. Two have been repaired and mine (the 3rd) has not been repaired.

    When the hull has a good coat of paint, the cracks can be very difficult to see. These cracks were not identified during our survey.

    Attached is a photo of Eclipse when she was trucked to my home for a refit. If you look closely you can see the cracks just aft of the bow jackstand and forward of the hydraulic arm.

    'Mobjack Pearl' is a Pearson 424 whose owner made the Bermuda rally a couple of years ago… he experienced the oil-canning phenomenon (including failure of the v berth shelves) when beating on the return trip.

    Rick
    Eclipse #73

    On Sat, Feb 7, 2009 at 7:28 PM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    Its my understanding that later hulls are balsa-cored. I don't know when Pearson switched to cored hulls. In theory, this would provide a stiffer hull. I doublt that it would prevent the oil-canning problem since the forward hull section is flat. I would still recommend reinforcing the forward sections.

    Rich

    Quote:
    <.. snip>

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    in reply to: optional battery locations #71487
    rdugger
    Participant

    Previous owner had built 2 story battery boxes on each side. They're like steps. I have wet cells. Works OK..

    Rick

    On Wed, Jan 21, 2009 at 8:46 PM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Like many of you, I have been looking for a better location for my house bank batteries. I currently have four 135 amp 6volt AGM batteries stored in the two wooden boxes in the starboard lazerette. I want to add four more batteries to double the total amps now available. I am thinking that if I remove the existing battery boxes I will have enough room to build a vertical battery box (two batteries on the lower level with two more sitting on top of the first pair) attached to the existing bulkheads in the engine room. By my calculations the bulk head is at least 26 inches wide and more than 24 inches high, which is more than enough room for my batteries. Access to the batteries will be available by removing the aft cover. I'll treat each side as separate banks.

    What do you think? Is this workable? What are the drawbacks and hazards?

    Lee

    Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    in reply to: Somethings Even My Inventory Workbook Won’t Fix #71446
    rdugger
    Participant

    We also have a Honda 2000. We keep it in a clear plastic tote box (got it from Walmart – its a perfect fit, brand name = Sterilite) between the mizzen and binnacle. The tote is upside down over top of the generator. Gives you a place to sit things and would protect it from minor spills and splashes. It has never moved under sail.
    We keep our gas in the dinghy.
    Rick
    Eclipse #73

    On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 7:56 PM, joe shimkonis < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    My honda g. sits in the cockpit nicely in between the mizzen mast and the wheel.It sits under the table and is almost invisible.Gas cans normally on deck.PE operated this way for many years.

    <.. snip>

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    in reply to: Re: Pearson Blue Prints #71295
    rdugger
    Participant

    Pat
    Did the drawings make it to the web site?
    I looked but didn't find them..
    Rick
    Eclipse#73

    On Thu, Dec 4, 2008 at 8:59 AM, pat noordsij < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    I have the drawing from Linus. I'm looking at the “best” to present them. I expect to post them tonight.

    – pat

    On Thu, Dec 4, 2008 at 7:27 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    Just found out converting blue prints to pdf is much cheaper than I was orginally told. Plan to convert three drawings, sail plan for sloop, deck layout specifications and interior detailed drawing. Will not be able to do it until after holidays. Will send out, but would hope we could put all of them on the web site for future access.

    Cada

    Dec 1, 2008 08:36:49 PM, () wrote:

    Quote:
    Me too and +1 on paypal 🙂

    On 12/1/08 6:37 AM, () wrote :

    Quote:
    Cada
    I'd be interested in PDFs. I have no need for hard copies. As I said earlier, I'd be happy to chip in to have them scanned. Paypal is pretty easy if you accept it.

    —
    Rich Carter
    BlackSheep #47


    Original message


    <.. snip>

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    in reply to: V drive #71251
    rdugger
    Participant

    I filled mine with AMS oil 30W…. and plugged the cooling ports..
    On Mobjack Pearl I believe Doug left his dry.

    Rick
    Eclipse #73

    On Thu, Dec 11, 2008 at 6:09 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    For those that are running without cooling on the V-drive, have you just left the cover off, or did you fill it with oil of some type and plug the cooling ports.

    PS: If it is with the cover off, anybody want to buy the 3 sets of gaskets I have for the cover real cheap. It looks like it doesn't make any sense to continue to corrode the V-drive away.

    Thanks,

    Paul


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Viewing 15 posts - 136 through 150 (of 176 total)