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Where’s the crack?
Mine has had a crack in the weld where it attaches the vertical chainplate to the horizontal tack fitting. I’m not concerned about it and repairing the weld would be a PIA.
Rich
The original engine has probably been replaced with the W58.
Here are my notes from when I repowered
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/index.html
Rich
I won’t be able to go that far. My home port is north of Boston. I’ve hosted a couple of rendezvous in the past. Photos of one raft-up is on the 424 website under photos->rendezvous. This was held in Edgartown on Martha’s Vinyard about 20 years ago. We had two there, one in Three-Mile Harbor on LI, one in Green Harbor RI, and one that I didn’t attend near the mouth of the Chesapeake.
If boats are going to be rafted for more than a day, you don’t want them tangling their anchors. There are a few ways to avoid this. The host should make whatever arrangements are needed to provide shore access to the other boats. A picnic area is nice to have. We’ve kept things low-key in the past.
Yes, there are two pumps. The lift pump is a small pump mounted somewhere on the engine that transfers fuel under low pressure from the fuel tank to the injector pump. This is an inexpensive pump and can be replaced with a cheap electric pump.
The high pressure pump has four hard-line tubes that run up to the top of each injector and a hose that returns unused fuel back to the tank. This is a very expensive pump to service or replace.
What makes you think you need a pump?
My cruising ground is New England. It rarely gets hot here so I can’t really say how the foam holds up with heat. This is the same foam mattress you get for a home bedroom so I see no reason to believe that normal heat would be a problem.
Interesting idea. I’m not sure it would work for me because I use the forward end cushions a lot. I have a flat-screen TV mounted in on the back of a galley cabinet that is over the refrigerator. I prop myself up in the opposite end to watch TV. I suppose I could just use a throw-pillow there. As it is, if we have extra guests, the main cabin settee is too short for sleeping unless you remove the end cushions. Then where do you put them at night? It’s also a bit snug for dinner if you have more than two guests. I might give it some thought after I see your photos. Replacing my main cabin cushions, for the third-time, is on my list.
As for the velcro attachment. That’s the way the boat was built. It never really worked for me. The cushions would always end up on the cabin sole when underway. I replaced them with snaps, attached to cloth tabs on the top of the cushions. Photos can be found here in interior mods under BlackSheep. The photo linked below is decades old but shows the snaps.
https://www.pearson424.org/photo-gallery/wppaspec/oc1/lnen/cv0/ab32/pt183If you decide to continue with a velcro type attachment, consider using a more robust type. The tape used to attach EZ-Pass transponders is much better. It can be purchased online. Google for Toll Tape. You’d have to experiment with how much to apply. The stuff sticks together very well.
I’m sure you know that you could make cupboard doors to fill the behind cushion holes. You’d probably have to square-off the hole corners but it sounds simple enough. A piano hinge across the top would work.
Looks very nice! Looks like someone replaced the original cushions with thicker cushions at some point. Not surprising since they were uncomfortable and would be very old by now. The thicker cushions make it difficult to raise the drop-leaves unless you stand up. You could always add fiddles if you decide to go offshore at some point. The original fiddles are too short anyway. It would be a challenge to cut them with rounded edges but if you are very good with woodworking it can be done.
I see you added an access hatch in the sole. What’s that for?
I made the fiddles myself. There’s a hardwood specialty store not far from where I live that sells teak and other exotic woods. Cutting the teak is straightforward if you have the right tools. Be careful selecting the mattress pad. The thicker the pad, the lower the book-rack goes. Cutting foam is easy with an electric carving knife. I sewed upholstery fabric to make a cover but you really don’t need it if you use a mattress pad.
I did this years ago. I cut a piece of pressure treated pine lumber and used it to raise the mast 1 1/2″. Aged pressure treated is best because you can epoxy it in place. I cut 1 1/2″ off the bottom of the mast and kept the cutoff piece. The base is fastened in place with lag bolts. Remove the torsion bar and lag screws to remove the base. Take it to a welder to have a replacement made. I don’t remember what I paid but it wasn’t expensive, maybe $200. Bring the cutoff piece to be sure that the replacement is fabricated correctly. Coat the replacement well to keep it from rusting. Get longer replacement stainless lag bolts. Cut and drill the wood shim and put some epoxy on the bottom when you replace it. I didn’t have to cut the torsion bar. There were sufficient threads. I’ll take a photo if I get a chance.
My boat pulls hard to starboard under power also. This is normal and caused by the prop rotation. Pearson offset the prop skeg a bit to compensate for this but under high throttle settings the engine will overcome the offset. Under moderate power settings, perhaps 6.3 kts or so, the boat is neutral. If I push the throttle up to over 7kts, it begins to pull hard to starboard. At 7.8kts, it will overcome the autopilot.
I bought an asymmetrical spinnaker many years ago and still use it. The boat won’t go downwind without it unless it blows. I have a sloop, #47. My J measurement is 15′ 10″ and I is 47′ 3″. This is the same as the tall ketch. At the time, I remember my sailmaker recommended that I go with an oversized sail because of the small rig. The width is 29’3″. You can see it on the cover of the June issue of Practical Sailor. The boat sails well with it.
My 424 came with a 20×13 fixed prop, still on a shelf here in my family room.
I assume you’ve read my notes, http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Propeller.html . This has a spreadsheet linked you can download to calculate propeller size.
The article linked above is interesting but might be a bit more than most folks can chew on. Many newer engines rev at a higher RPM than the old beasts Pearson used when the 424’s were built. As a result, you get a higher shaft speed at power settings with a new engine unless you do something to change the gear ratio. I was replacing the V-drive at the same time I repowered so I changed the gear reduction there, keeping the old 1:1 velvet drive. If you repower to something that runs 30% faster than the old engine, you’ll get a shaft speed 30% higher. I switched to a 2.5:1 gear in the V-drive to get the shaft speed back down closer to what Pearson designed. I would have gone a bit higher but that’s the most Walter had.
Rich
the gauge set is from Westerbeke. The oil pressure gauge says “International”. A web search gives a zillion hits on International Harvester gauges but nothing generic. Westerbeke wants $80 plus shipping for the W60C oil sender. I think it’s a Mazda pickpup block from the mid-80s but I’m not sure which model. He ordered a Mazda sender, $15, but I’m not sure the resistance is what the westerbeke gauge wants.
Ben,
I researched this a few years ago, my notes are here.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Propeller.htmlDiscussions with the propeller manufacturer indicated that the shaft-speed of the 75hp Yanmar is too high to properly mate a 3-blade propeller. The issue is tip-speed. At high tip speeds, the propeller will cavitate. I’d recommend that you have a similar conversation with your propeller supplier before you drop several boat-units on the wrong prop.
I ended up replacing the V-drive to gear down the shaft speed. This isn’t really a waste of money since these RV-20s are at the end of their lives anyway.
Rich