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Get yourself a Brothers label maker and black label tape. You can make your own labels for anything you want.
Rich
Looks like your boat has a custom made shelf under the table. My boat doesn’t have such a thing and I don’t think it was made by Pearson.
Your mast bracket is different than mine and I don’t have holes in the side of the table to mount it to the mast.
Rich
Another place where a flexible caulk is needed is around the mast collar. I used poly-sulfide the last time I caulked this about 5 years ago and now have a leak. I’ll be rebedding it in the fall when the mast comes out. I’ll probably use lap sealant since it’s what I have, but I might try butyl tape here since I don’t need to get the caulk down a hole like with the chainplates. If you let water get in there it can get into your deck and rot the core.
Chainplate leaks are a chronic problem with the 424 and many other boats. If you don’t keep the water out, the chainplates will suffer and anything you put in the lockers below will get wet. I found it almost impossible to keep this sealed until I tried lap-seal, a flexible caulk sold for camper roofs. The rigging will flex the chainplates when under way, separating them from almost any sealant you use. The stuff they use for camper roofs however is made to flex and lasts for years. I switched over about 20 years ago and renew the sealant about every five years. I remove the chainplate covers and clean them and the area around the deck where they sit. I lay in a bead of sealant, then install the covers and lay in another layer on top of them.
I use Dicor-551LSW1-White-Non-Sag-Sealant, available from Amazon and most camper supply stores.AFAIK, the boat came from the factory without fairing on the strut. The strut with through bolts are exposed in a recess. Some owners fill the space to reduce turbulence and increase speed. I’m not convinced that it helps and I haven’t seen anything that does a good job of filling in the space. I’d suggest cleaning out the old filler and painting it.
It’s hard to see what you really have there. At first glance, I thought the original owner may have covered the inside of the hull with wood strips, but I don’t think the photo shows enough strips. If you have a rub-rail, you would have strips to cover the screw-heads. The photo is cut-off at the top so I can’t see if you have screws there. Pearson also put some teak strips along the outside of the v-berth where the tabbing ends. You’ll have to take a close look at the length of what you have and see where it might fit.
Rich
I think the “tall” description is a bit out of place. There are no tall 424’s. There’s really a standard 424 and a short 424, the difference being 48′ vs 44′. Sailmakers list them as Tall-Mast vs standard however so when looking for measurements bear that in mind. I suspect that the shorter rig is for folks that need to get under a bridge such as the Okeechobee RR bridge.
Rich
I have a 1978 Sloop. She is identical to the tall ketch, and even has bulkheads glassed in for the mizzen chain-plates and the cockpit sole is reinforced. If I wanted a ketch, I could just add the mizzen and of course spend the boat-units on the mast and hardware. I don’t find any lee helm issue. I’ve thought about adding the mizzen but I’m not convinced that she would sail any better and the cost to purchase the mizzen is substantial. I don’t think she would point as well with the mizzen, mostly because I’d lose the backstay tensioner. I’d also lose room in the cockpit that is currently big to host a square-dance.
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Except for perhaps the last year of production, the sloop and tall ketch have the same main mast and boom. The only difference is that the sloop lacks the mizzen. The cutter has the mast a bit further aft but it is also the same. The last year or so of production they made the cutter and sloop the same.
I recall a thread a few years back when an owner stated that he intended to remove the table because it was in the way and never used. I suggested that he store the thing and keep it handy in case a subsequent owner didn’t appreciate his modification. I don’t think he did. I wonder if you now have his boat.
I think that Pearson used an off-the-shelf table and modified it with the cutout for the mast. I think I remember seeing the table inline from a teak furniture outlet along with other teak stuff like a roll-top-desk and teak-grate end-tables. As I recall, Defender carried the product line but I don’t see it in their website. A quick search for the vendor didn’t yield any results but if you keep looking you might find it. You might call Defender and see if they can recall who the manufacturer was.
If you can’t, I’ll take some measurements and send some photos.
Rich
As I’m sure you’ve figured out, the icebox on the 424 isn’t very well insulated. Fixing this could be very difficult and time consuming since you’d have to lift the countertop and basically fit in a new icebox. You would end up with a smaller icebox. Several owners have done this. If you do nothing else, replacing the lid with something better insulated is recommended and fairly easy to do. The stock lid hinges in the middle. You need to remove the lid to get almost anything out of there so you need to clear off some space to stow the lid; a frustrating process.
Here’s what I did. This replacement is well insulated.
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/index.php/Interior-Modifications/rcarterinterior/P8180006Rich
The aft half of my cabin sole was in rough shape when I bought my boat. The boat was only 8 years old at the time, and five of those years she wasn’t in service. The thin teak and holly plywood laminate doesn’t hold up and can’t be repaired if damaged. I laid teak and holly over the old sole. This is a bit of work and requires some skill. There may be easier ways to cover the old sole but if you’re a purist, this works pretty well.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/sole/
Rich
David,
I would think that if you had an engine alignment problem, you’d have vibration at all power settings. Checking it is pretty easy however if you have a Walter alignment key. It’s a small bronze casting that looks almost like a bottle-opener.I have a folding prop and have no issues motor sailing. My prop is a 3-blade Slipstream with blades that are geared together so they can’t open or close out of sequence. I get impatient sometimes in light wind and turn the engine on at low speed just to make-way. Anything less than 5-kts is unacceptable when I’m trying to get somewhere. I notice no vibration and the engine purrs. The folding prop makes a huge difference in light-air. It’s well worth the expense for me.
Rich
I have toe-rail, eybrows, grab-rails, combing, rub-rail, swim-platform, and cockpit table. Also a small teak-deck over the main cabin companionway doghouse. I’ve changed the combing, doghouse deck, and eyebrows over to semco previously and so-far, so-good. I’ve spent 16 hours stripping the rest. Now it needs to be cleaned and sanded in before I can coat it. I figure another week’s work at 4 hrs/day. Boat splashes next Tuesday. I hope to be ready and lookin’ good.
Rich
