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Patrick
It looks like you have more time and interest than me to document rigging loads for our boats. This would be a great help. I’d be interested if you looked at the lower shroud loads for an otherwise unsupported inner forestay as discussed earlier.As I mentioned, loads on my backstay can be set using a backstay tensioner. Loads are usually set to around 3500 lbs upwind and relaxed to as little as 250 lbs downwind. This upper number is much higher than what can be set on the shrouds. I doubt that they could be set higher than 2500 lbs without galling the threads. I would guess that the uppers are typically set to around 1000 lbs and the lowers to about 700 lbs. This is a rough guesstamate since I have no way to actually measure it. I set these turnbuckles such that the lazy guys are just slack when the boat is on a tack. Your figures appear much too high.
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Rich Carter
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Walter
Water injection elbows come in two common styles. There is the common injection elbow and what is called a riser. I would suggest that you retrofit with a riser. Even though this barely gets the exhaust higher than the water line, Pearson positioned the water-lift on the starboard side of the engine, the opposite side from the exhaust outlet. This means that when the boat is heeled over on starboard, the water lift is on the high side of the boat. As long as you don’t broach over on starboard, water shouldn’t make its way back into the engine.When I repowered, there was insufficient room to route the exhaust over to the port side, but my new engine comes with a higher riser.
don’t forget the vented loop just before your raw water pump.
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Rich Carter
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Rick
The sides of the lazarette lockers beneath the cockpit are lined with pegboard on my boat. Without these pieces, stuff placed in the lockers would find their way beneath the fuel tank and head for points south. I can’t think of anywhere else Pearson used them on a stock boat.—
Rich Carter
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Linus
I’m pretty sure Pearson used the stuff because it is cheap. If your engine room is properly vented, the pegboard holes are not necessary. A 4″ diameter intake and exhaust hose are sufficient to let your engine breathe and ventilate the compartment.—
Rich Carter
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Linus
I’ve replace pieces of the pegboard over the years. I agree that the stuff isn’t particularly suited to damp environments but it is easy to cut and inexpensive to replace. I wish I could say that about more boat parts. It comes in at least two thicknesses and comes with various patterns. I’ve used the thicker variety with a fake wood grain pattern. It might last a little longer if it were painted. I’ve been able to keep most of the water out of my lockers, so its held up fairly well. I’ve also used the stuff to make shelves in some of the lockers below. I find that I need shelf space more than hanging locker space.—
Rich Carter
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Welcome aboard! I read somewhere that Pearson used the same mold for the hulls on both models. I have a link to the 422 web site, but the site appears to be down. Maybe the site owner lost interest.
I’m sure that you’ll find threads related to machinery of particular interest since Pearson must have used the same engines, transmissions, etc. Under power, I’m sure the boats behave the same way. Under sail, they must be similar too. There’s a lot of information on the site. If you have any specific questions, don’t hesitate to ask.
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Rich Carter
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I just replaced mine. Quotes ran about $1500 here in the Boston area. Consider using gortex thread since it lasts longer. The vinyl backed sunbrella lasts longer in northern latitudes, but I’ve heard it has problems in hot climates.
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Rich Carter
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It’s great that folks are scanning documentation. Would it please be possible to either copy these to the 424 website or link the to it? That way we can find them if we ever need a copy.
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Rich Carter
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Patrick
What kind of zincs do you use? I found that the cheap stuff sold in most marine outlets won’t last. The problem is that when the zinc starts to wear, the fasteners that hold it to the shaft will loosen up and allow the zinc to spin off the shaft. You can frequently hear it when spins off, there’s a thunk on the bottom of the boat as it hits the hull on the way to the bottom. I’ve used more expensive zincs for the past few years and haven’t lost one in years. The zinc is attached to a bronze or brass collar. As the zinc wears, it stays fastened tightly to the shaft until all the zinc is used. I’ve even gotten more than one year on a zinc. The brand I use is Godfrey, sold at most prop shops. They are expensive, but it’s cheap insurance.—
Rich Carter
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I don’t have a checklist. Since there really isn’t all that much involved with winterizing the boat, I’ve never bothered. I’ll skip the obvious stuff like removing all the food and beverages, covering boat etc. Here’s what I do (all anti-freeze is potable. Walmart has good prices for the -50F stuff):
Water system –
Drain water tanks by running them dry.
Add a gallon of -50F anti-freeze to each tank and drain that.
Open all faucet valves.
Remove the shower drain hose from the hanger and let it dangle in the shower stall with the shower head valve open.
Make sure that the water heater breaker is turned off
Open the water heater drain and drain it into the bilge.
Remove the water filter.
Open freshwater manifold to let trapped water drainRefrigeration
Run a half-gallon of -50F potable anti-freeze through the water cooling system.
Drain water from intake strainer.
loosen engine compressor beltEngine
Top-off fuel tank and add stablizer
Change oil while engine is still warm
Run 1-gal of -50F anti-freeze through V-drive and engine rawater cooling system
Run 1-gal of -100F anit-freeze through V-drive and engine rawater cooling system
Change filters
Wipe engine down
Change V-drive oil
Drain water from intake strainer.Head
Flush waste treatment system with lots of water
Dump 2 gal of -50F anti-freeze into head and flushMisc
dump a quart of -50F anti-freeze into ice-box and pump out
dump a quart of -50F anti-freeze into shower drain and pump out (sump tank is removed).
pump bilge dry and dump a gallon or so of -50F anti freeze into the bilge—
Rich Carter
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I started rigging an inner forestay, but haven’t finished. My rigger advised me that the bulkhead at the aft end of the chain locker is not strong enough for a chainplate. I’ve attached a 2×12 oak beam across the top of that bulkead at the forward end of the v-berth. For those who have a cutter rig, I’d appreciate comments and even a picture of how your chainplate is attached.
My mast already came with a stay tang to attach an inner forestay. I assume that Pearson used the same mast for all rig variations It didn’t have tangs for the running backs however. I added those and purchased a pair of running backs. I have a forestay wire that needs to be cut to length. My plan is to normally stow it hanked onto a u-bolt on the toe-rail just forward of one of the forward lowers. When I need to fly a storm jib, I would unclip it from that position and swing it over to the deck mounted chainplate. A short extension wire would likely be needed. The storm jib would hank on. I personally wouldn’t want a storm jib that had a luff tape. I think a hanked on sail is easier and more reliable to set in a blow.
After getting this far, I read a running thread we had a few years back about this subject and changed my mind about the setup. Since I won’t be flying two headsails at the same time, there is no reason that the stay can’t hank on at the top of the mast, about a foot or two below the top of the mast. This eliminates the need for the running backs and lets me use the spinnaker halyard for the storm jib.
I haven’t done any more on this project because I have no plans to take the boat offshore in the near future. For coastal cruising, my storm sail is made by Yanmar.
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Rich Carter
BlackSheep #47
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I don’t care how many crew you have. I wouldn’t want to be pulling down and stowing a large gennoa in a blow. There are ways to add an inner forestay to be used just for a storm jib. We’ve exchanged quite a lot of mail about this in the past.
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Rich Carter
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It looks like it was a stock 424 except for the hanging locker on the port side in the V-berth. Why you would want yet another hanging locker is a mystery. For that matter, a third sink can be a waste of space too. It works for us since our daughter uses the forward cabin for her stateroom. She spends a lot of time primping.
It appears that someone has removed the main cabin companionway hatch and replaced it with a standard deck hatch. It’s hard to tell what they did there since there is no photo of the modification. I would ask them to send photos of the modification, both the deck and the cabin. If the new hatch is hinged, it is probably not suitable as a companionway hatch because someone is bound to overextend the hinge. I don’t know if you can do something to prevent the hatch from getting damaged. If the new hatch is unusable as a companionway or if the ladder is missing, this would be fairly straightforward to correct; assuming you want to restore the companionway.
see the link below.
http://www.marinershardware.com/ProdCHatches.phpThere are probably other manufacturers of similar hatches. From their description, I can’t tell how watertight these would be. The double-window sliding hatch looks cool.
The boat otherwise appears to be in good shape. Poor resolution images can hide a lot of cosmetic flaws however.
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Rich Carter
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This is the only 424 listing that I could find. This looks like a stock 424.
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Sounds odd. Can you send pictures?
Repairing the leaky main cabin companionway hatch wasn’t that big a deal. It took about 14 hours. It doesn’t leak even one drop now. Those of you who have the same hatch will have a choice of either repairing the area around the hatch as I did or waiting until the damage extends to a large area of the deck. When I first saw the boat, I thought the main cabin hatchway was a waste of space. Now that I’ve owned the boat for a number of years, I really like the easy access it provides. It means that I don’t have to climb over the dodger to get into the cockpit and below. It also makes loading and unloading the boat easier.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/deckRot/
Once again I thought I might mention that a local marine store has a pair of ladder brackets from Pearson. They bought a bunch of surplus stuff when Pearson went out of business. I think all they have left are the main cabin ladder brackets; no steps, but these are easy to fabricate. If anyone needs to replace a broken bracket or restore a removed main cabin hatch, pick them up before they are gone.
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Rich Carter
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