Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Rodd
There should be no need to cut anything to remove the cutless bearing. After removing the retaining screw on each side, you push it out with a press. You can make a press using a long piece of threaded rod, a piece of pipe, and a couple of large washers. As you tighten the nut, it pushes the bearing into the pipe.I think you’re supposed to grease the outside of the new bearing when you put it back in. Ask your local prop-shop if this is correct. The helps in disassembly the next time you do this.
The cutless bearing should last several years. Depending on how many hours you run your engine, you should probably get ten or more years, but they do wear out. Alignment should not be an issue given the limited adjustment available on the v-drive mounts. An improperly aligned or bent shaft will accelerate wear.
—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Don’t forget to lace in a stainless cable so that the wire bundle doesn’t hang from its own weight. The cable is attached at the top of the mast. It supports the weight of the harness.
Rich
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
David
If you endup driving, someone might have room on their boat for you to bunk overnight if you wish. We might have room on the main cabin settee.—
Rich Carter
BlackSheep #47
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor
I’ve spent a lot of time thinking about it. Its one of those things that
“aren’t broken yet don’t work right.” It could be quite a lot of time
before I get the “broken and needs to be fixed now” things out of the way so
that I can work on at it.Without a check-valve, water could be forced in through the drain hole
faster than it could run out between waves. This would cause it to fill
with water; quite a lot of weight. Perhaps a drain hole on each side
rather than on the bow would work better. A cupped cover over the holes
facing aft would keep bow waves from being forced in the holes.Rich
Quote:_____________________________________________
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Eric,
The problem is related to the placement of the windlass. Because Pearson mounted a well door on the foredeck, this leaves little room to mount a windlass without substantial modification. I cut the forward end of the hatch to allow the door to clear the motor.http://www.richardcarter.net/My_Homepage_Files/Page16.html
Having the windlass mounted up forward like this leaves the forward deck uncluttered and retains the deck well for storage. It forces you to mount the windlass too far forward to make use good of the bow locker however. I glassed a PVC pipe in just below the windlass fairlead. This allows the chain to fall through the pipe directly into the bow locker beneath the anchor well. There isn’t much room below the pipe for the chain to fall because it hits the bow. After 20 or 30 feet have fallen into the lower locker, the chain builds a castle in there until it obstructs the pipe. A crewmember has to climb into forward locker and knock down the chain.
A better solution would be to remove the bow locker and glass the foredeck well hatch closed. This would allow the windlass to be moved aft on the foredeck where the chain can fall into a deeper part of the forward locker. It eliminates the anchor well entirely. Some might object to the loss of storage, but I find it of very limited value. My working anchor is stowed up on the roller where it can be used. The well is cluttered with chain, so storage for anything else like a second anchor is not practical. If the locker is glassed over, it also prevents water from finding its way in there and flooding the motor, solenoids, and deck switches. If this were done, I would discourage removal of the existing locker bottom bulkhead. This is structural. Cutting a hole in it as Tor has done would not compromise the hull however.
Glassing over the deck hatch will be a trick. You need a very solid foundation for the windlass.
Another possible solution would be to move the windlass farther aft on the foredeck behind the anchor well. This would allow the well to be used, but I fail to see how you could open it with one or two chains running over it. You’d have to run pipes through the V-berth cabin above the bunk. I’ve seen this done on other boats.
A third option would be to put a small vertical roller up forward to redirect the chain down the starboard side of the bow to the side of the anchor well. The chain could then fall into a deeper part of the forepeak. This might work with a vertical windlass.
One potential problem with stowing the chain in the foreward locker is that muck from the chain would collect in there and find its way into the bilge. You could glass in a lower bottom bulkhead to keep the slime from running down into the bilge, but you’d need some way to get the water and muck out. A lower well drain might work if you put a check-valve on it. Without a check-valve, water would be forced in there when running into a head-sea. I don’t know how reliable a check valve would be with muck running through it. There are a number of dinghy bailers that have check-valves that might work. As long as the locker were made water-tight, I suppose it would be OK. A water-tight bulkhead door could be fitted behind the existing access hatch to allow access to the chain locker for cleaning and maintenance. The door would need to be robust to insure that chain bouncing around in the forepeak doesn’t break through the access door. An aluminum panel screwed in every fe
w inch
es around its circumference would probably work.—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Linus
Please send better resolution photos. I’d really like to see how the engine looks in there. I almost went the cummins route.Congrats!
—
Rich Carter
Start of attached email. Subject: Happy 4/24
End of attached email
To unsubscribe, e-mail:
For additional commands, e-mail:Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Here’s another tip from the technical end. I’m in the process of repairing the transom chainplate area. This involves some glasswork. I got a tip from a guy who did glasswork for me a few years ago. He uses an angle-grinder with a sander attachment for grinding the old surface before doing new work. The sanding attachment can be purchased from most building supply stores. If you don’t properly clean the area, the secondary bond won’t adhere. With a coarse sanding pad, the grinder goes through glass like a hot knife through butter. The only problem is that it kicks up a cloud of fiberglass dust. I don’t know if the glass dust shortens the life of the grinder, but a new grinder is only a small boat unit. Its not possible to avoid getting dust all over yourself. Good eye protection is a must!
—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor
You have me thinking that you are headed in the right direction. I’ll have
to see photos and think about it. Thanks for the info.Regards
RichQuote:_____________________________________________
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor
I’ll avoid giving my opinions on anchoring here. That would open up a religious discussion. Your choice for a vertical windlass sounds good to me and I like your idea of redoing the foredeck anchor well. I’ve been thinking the whole thing over myself. Please send photos when you are done.I currently have 3/8 HT chain that needs replacement within the next year or so. A couple of hundred feet of 3/8 chain lower the waterline up forward by a couple of inches. I had one continuous piece of chain. Some of the harbors here in the northeast are 50 feet deep, so you need that much to anchor there, but I had to cut the ends off a couple of years ago due to corrosion. I think I have about 150 feet left. There aren’t that many places that need more than 150, but I don’t like to limit myself. I’m considering going down one size to 7/16″, but still mulling it over. I sleep pretty well with what I have.
Whatever you do up there, I suggest that you consider making it water tight or adapted so that it can be closed off for offshore trips. The existing arrangement can take on water faster than it can drain through the tiny drain hole. This can completely fill the well. Without some minor modification, water can find its way under the toe-rail into the V-Berth.
I run part of my chain to the foredeck locker through a PVC pipe. When offshore, I can stow the anchor and run the whole chain below, hanging the last link on the bottom of a PVC pipe-cap.
—
Rich Carter
BlackSheep #47
To unsubscribe, e-mail:
For additional commands, e-mail:Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rodd
I expect that there will be three of us, my wife, daughter, and me. If that changes, I’ll let you know.Rich
BlackSheep #47—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rodd
I never liked the idea of having to get down on my hands and knees to view the fuel gauge. I used to pour a little water onto the sight-glass to make viewing the tank gauge easier. You might consider replacing the manual fuel gauge with a remote gauge. It uses a generic sender screw pattern. If you go this route, pull the old sender and bring it with you to the marine store to be sure.The issue is where to mount the fuel gauge meter. For some odd reason, none of the engine manufacturers have a fuel-gauge option on their instrument panels. I ended up making my own panel. I painted the sight-glass gray. You still need an access port to the fuel tank, so removing it and glassing it over is a bad idea.
If all else fails, you could just put the meter behind the existing panel where you could see it when you open the back door.
—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rod
I replaced with good quality sanitation hose. The wire reinforced stuff doesn’t seem to hold up as well as one might think. I think the rubber starts to rot and lets water seep through. The wire eventually rusts. If left alone long enough, the whole thing will fall apart. While you’re replacing the port side hose, take a look at the fuel fill hose too. That’s a pain to replace! You don’t want to use sanitation hose there though.Vetus used to make a really nice sanitation hose, but I haven’t seen it in years. That’s what I used on those drain hoses. I had to use a lesser quality hose that West Marine sells for the remaining hoses. I think it’s still better than what the boat originally came with.
Any news on the rendevous? Is it still on for July 26?
Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I’m not sure there would be any difference. The extra height would be offset by the siphon action of water flowing down to the through-hull.
Rich
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Chuck
As I remember, you need a special tool to remove the retaining nuts on the V-drive shafts. I fabricated a pair from some sockets and passed them on to someone. Unfortunately, I can’t remember who has them. You’ll have a bear of a time removing them in one piece without them and you’ll never be able to torque them back down. Even with the tools I made, torquing them is very difficult. They look like the special tools used to service locking hubs, but they are a different size.Would whoever has the tools please reply so that we can share them?
—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Chuck
The plugs are used to close the holes that would have otherwise been used for the oil-cooler. Walter used hollow cast-iron plugs. They can and do rust out in a few years. It is indeed pretty easy to retap the hole, but not if you have to do it while you are in some strange port without proper tools. I suggest buying zinc plugs with the appropriate threads. Unscrew the zinc from the plug and use it instead of cast-iron. That’s what I did. Some folks recommend installing the zinc, but I don’t want a piece of zinc finding its way to the raw water pump.—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum