[RLeeds]

hi- I would greatly appreciate a drawing of the mast step you fabricated as I am in need of a replacement!

Thanks so much.

Rodd Leeds
#214

[RLeeds]

hey Quent-

Any chance you still have a Nexus server around? I suspect mine is toast.

Thanks.

Rodd Leeds
Wind Seeker,#214

[RLeeds]

Thanks
David- I just saw your response– time for a call?
I’m in Florida now.

Best,
Rodd Leeds

[RLeeds]

just got a rate raise of m ore than $1000 for same coverage from Boat US. Not sure if there is any good option due to needing another survey when you change insurers.

[RLeeds]

quent-
do you still have the wind masthead unit? the one with the propeller type front?
thanks.
rodd
#214

[RLeeds]

hey- any chance you have the injector return line — I bent and cracked mine while lying over the engine to do an inector pump replacement!

Thanks.
Rodd Leeds
East Hampton, NY
#214

[RLeeds]

Ron-
I have been using a Michigan Wheel Sailor prop, 18×13 for quite a while now with good success! I also have the original W-58. I cruise at 6 knots at 2250 RPM. Good control docking.

Rodd

[RLeeds]

W58 engine – I have been using Fram PH8A oil filters for years with absolutely no problems whatsoever. Buy them in any auto parts store or Walmart for under $5.

[RLeeds]

I have an interest in the Genoa. Would take the whole package if you can’t split it up.
Thanks.

Rodd Leeds
New York

[RLeeds]

hey Quent- I still have Nexus and am looking for any instrument covers that are in good shape. Mine are pretty shot. Do you have any?

Thanks.

Rodd

[RLeeds]

Evan-
How about the instrument panel and included wiring? Could use a few gauges, and definitely the wiring harness– both ends, in fact.

what is the status of your RV20? (original, or rebuilt ?)

Also, where are you located? I am on Long Island, NY
Thanks.

Rodd
Windseeker, #214

[RLeeds]

Short wrench (11/16″) worked like a charm–easy, when you know how!!

Thanks all.

Rodd

[RLeeds]

Dan-
yes there is a clip about midway down the pedestal that holds both cables. you know where it is because a screw shows where the clip is fastened to the pedestal.then follow these instructions:

REMOVE COMPASS
Before removing the compass bolts, run a piece of electrical tape vertically from the compass across the engine control housing, top plate, and onto the pedestal. Slit the tape at each joint. This will help you realign the compass with the other parts when you reassemble this upper part of the pedestal. Remove the four round head 1/4-20 x 3-1/2 machine screws that serve as compass bolts.
REMOVE THE BRASS CLEVIS PINS FROM THE CONTROL LEVERS IN THE ENGINE CONTROL HOUSING
The clevises are screwed to the end of the engine control cables. Note which holes in the control levers the clevis pins came from. This helps when reassembling this unit.
REMOVE ENGINE CONTROL HOUSING
REMOVE THE CABLE HOLDER NUT OR ROUND HEAD MACHINE SCREW
located on the aft side of the pedestal tube approximately 7″ below the wheel shaft. This will release the Cable Holder (A-969 or A-705) that holds the two engine control cables. These cables remain attached to the cable holder inside the pedestal tube.
BRING BOTH CONTROL CABLES TO THE SAME SIDE OF WHEEL SHAFT.
From the top of the pedestal, push down both of the engine control cables just far enough so you can bring the throttle control cable (right hand side) under the wheel shaft and over to the left aft side of the pedestal along with the clutch cable.
PULL BOTH CONTROL CABLES UP.
With both control cables now on the same side of the steering wheel shaft, pull the cables up until you can reach the cable holder.
Due to the limited amount of space in the pedestal tube the cable holder sometimes gets jammed up with the steering chain and cables. One solution to this problem is to turn the steering wheel shaft all the way to port, thus putting most of the steering chain over on the left side with the two engine control cables and cable holder. Then, while pulling up on the engine control cables, turn the steering wheel shaft back to starboard. The upward movement of the chain can help bring the cable holder and control cables up to a level where they can be reached.
Working space can be gained in the upper section of the pedestal by moving the chain forward of the chain sprocket. To do this, first tighten the brake, then ease the tension of the chain and steering cables by backing off the nuts on the takeup eyes located on your radial drive wheel or quadrant which is attached to the rudderpost. With slack in the steering cables, lift the steering chain and move it forward of the hub sprocket located on the steering wheel shaft.
REMOVE THE BROKEN ENGINE CONTROL CABLE
Now that you can reach the cable holder, remove the broken engine control cable. When removing the bad engine control cable, make sure you attach a “messenger” line, or the new replacement cable, to the end of the original cable. You will use the “messenger” line to run the new replacement cable through the same route as the original engine control cable.
RUN THE NEW ENGINE CONTROL CABLE
Using the “messenger” line, pull the new engine control cable into place.

Good luck- I’ve only done it once, and that was a tough one!

Rodd

[RLeeds]

Thanks guys for the quick responses! I will try using a short wrench next time.

Rodd
Windseeker, #214

[RLeeds]

Thanks John-

Rich- I had a leak from the rudder packing (at least I hope it was from the packing and not from the strut thru-bolts). So I am going to repack this year. As for the “bearing”, I’ll probably just go with John’s suggestion of a hose clamp to keep it in place-

Rodd

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