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thanks Chuck! very good info. will tackle this job in the spring!!
Rodd
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hey Chuck-
I am doing a cutlass bearing, shaft check, new stuffing box hose and repack,
etc., and I am curious how to do the alignment of the engine to v-drive,
then v-drive to prop shaft. Any help or photos would be appreciated.Thanks.
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker, #214
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thanks for the input gents! I have never had a problem with the tach
before- I do have an external voltage reg, but tach always ran steady and
constant no matter what the RPM. This is the first time I noticed it
jumping up and down within the 200 rpm range. Again, the engine didn’t
seem to be running rough. Next day at 1200-1500 while warming my engine
for the oil change there was no fluctuation in rpm. guess I’ll have to wait
till next season!Rodd
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Thanks Bob! Btw, I am back at Brewers Glen Cove for the winter. If you
plan to be in the neighborhood let me know and we can get together.My vdirve is still being water cooled.–at least to some degree!!
Rodd
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one note on the antifreeze to be used. Westerbeke recommends using the
Prestone Extended life coolant now. If you are replacing another type of
coolant, like the green coolant that we used to use, you need to be sure and
get all the old coolant out of the engine before adding the new extended
life. They were insistent that it is a bad idea to mix the two types of
coolant!So, best to drain coolant by pulling the hoses off the bottom of the main
heat exchanger, and also remove the engine block plug, which is on the right
side of the W 58, but the port side of the boat. then place a hose and
flush with fresh water. this will ensure you get all the old antifreeze
out. then fill witht the new extended life. then deal with the air lock
problem we all have!!Rodd Leeds
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Well, seems Quent was correct! Turns out the continuity was in fact due to
the stern light being attached to the same breaker/switch as the bow light!
Thanks Quent!! New bulb and good to go!Rodd
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good point Quent ! Yes they are as well as the compass light. All three
come on when I throw the switch for “Running lights”. I will check before
pulling the new wire! Hopefully you have saved me a bothersome job!Rodd
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Thanks all — sounds like it’s time to replace the entire run forward from
the switch at the panel. Quent, I did check for chafe at the bow pulpit,
and there was none– that short run from the terminal block in the anchor
locker to the light itself was good. The problem lies in the long run up
from the panel (of course!!). Now I need to go back and measure length I
need before ordering from Genuinedealz. I imagine a 12ga wire should do it?
(bulb is 25 watt for the Aqua Sig series 40).I figure it is probably easier to run the wires down and through the bilge
then up to the water tank area then on up to the anchor locker. I can follow
the path I used to run my 00 cable to my windlass!Rodd Leeds
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decided to go with a simple Shurflo 4.0 gpm pump and keep my accumulator
tank as well. Tks for heads up on the VSD pumps- good idea, but if not
reliable who needs it!Rodd Leeds
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Culprit was the raw water strainer! filled with eel grass. simply emptied
it and cleaned it out, started engine, and all is good again! Thanks for
the tips men!!Rodd
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Sean and the Group-
Thanks for asking, but have not been back to the boat again since the
problem. I will post the results and solution (hopefully) as soon as I get
it solved.Rodd
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Thanks for responses! Boat was wintered in the water this year, so no
seawater was drained–therefore I would have assumed I would get water
pumping pretty easily. I will ck the items mentioned by Joe next time– and
yes, my inlet seacock valve was open!Rodd Leeds
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Dan-
Are you saying there is a small diameter hose that is connected to your
petcock that goes up to the coolant recovery tank? or are the bubbles you
refer to from the main fill hose from the bottom of the recovery tank? I
have nothing connected to my petcock on the exhaust manifold.Rodd
Windseeker, #214
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Skip-
I don’t need the instrument itself, mine works fine. What I do need is the
mounting round glass case that holds the datamarine depth gauge. If you
have that I would appreciate it.
Thanks.Rodd Leeds
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Gents-
when I need to deploy a second anchor, whether Bahamian moor or two anchors
out different sides of the forestay set at say 45degrees apart, I use an
anchor and rode that is already to go. I keep two anchors on the pulpit
with chain and rode on both.
Primary is CQR45 on 30 ft chain and 200 ft nylon. Second is Danforth with
20 ft chain and nyon. This rode leads down the forward cowl into the area
just forward of the Vberth. This way it is always ready to go at a moments
notice, yet has no interference with the daily use of the primary anchor and
rode. This method has worked well for me for over 30 years! I was prepared
for the ICW and the shallow Bahamian anchorages, as well as all my normal
New England cruising grounds. If you want a second anchor at the ready this
method works!Rodd Leeds
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