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Dan-
Now I see it is you who has the parts, not Bob Fine!
Interested in :V-Drive and jack shaft
Engine heat xchanger
Exhaust elbows (4)
Exhaust manifold
Neutral safety switch from Tranny
Engine wire harness
Oil temp senderThanks!
Rodd
Windseeker
NYno luck with them- I guess I will just have to run 6.5 and no upgrade. Considering that I really don’t use the laptop much anymore it’s not that big of a deal.
Thanks for idea.
Rodd
Rich-
Yes, that’s the world of boating! One thing leads to the next, etc etc.,
and always to more money spent!
Good luck with the horns.Rodd
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I use a dual horn, by Ongaro. Not too great either. I also have a speaker
horn mounted aloft that amplifies fog signals, etc automatically from my
VHF. That is a great feature in the fog! Can also hit xmit button to get a
warning yelp if you need it. Highly recommended.For a stand alone horn with a button I think you would need to go to an air
horn. Those work great and are very loud.Rodd
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Gents-
The W58 coolant drain plug is located on the starboard side of the engine
(port side of boat). It is a brass plug about an inch up from the oil pan,
and in the middle of the block. I just drained coolant from there this past
fall to completely remove all the old standard antifreeze and replaced with
extended life coolant.Good luck!
Rodd
Windseeker, #214
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Thanks Robert.
I am due for this and will arrange for it this spring.Rodd
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hey Bob-
The W58, which I have , is a Mazda 4-154 block.
Rodd
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Thanks Linus-
I know about those small bonding screws. I have those on some of my larger
thru hulls, but on the one in question there are large bolts coming up from
the bottom of the seacock, mainly to keep the thru hull from turning. One
of these bolts is my problem child.
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Thanks Linus! I await the pics.
Rodd
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thanks Chuck- that is good advice. My problem is I really don’t want to
reinstall the thru hull if the bolt that is loose is coming up thru the
mounting pad from inside the hull. I sanded down the bottom in the area
around the thru hull and could find no evidence of bolt heads that had been
counter sunk into the hull from the bottom (as shown in your figure 1). I’m
just trying to confirm that Pearson did in fact install the thru hull the
way I think they did.Rodd
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thanks guys! good info-
i think what I may do is put a vice grip on the top of the threads trying to
hold the bolt from turning while I put a wrench on the nut and try to
tighten it back down to the base of the bolt, right up to the base of the
seacock. This is what I get for trying to clean up my bonding wires!!Rodd
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thanks for that refresher! Buck Alg is the gold standard for that
application. and yes, all shaft sizes are 1 1/2″.
awaiting hose inside diameter if you can find it.Rodd Leeds
Windseeker
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Charlie-
This is a challenging project! First of all go to Edson’s website and find
the manaual (or maintenance instructions) for our pedestal (# 34181). When
taking apart the cables and removing the compass, be sure and stuff a rag
into th epedestal underneath the hardware in order to catch any parts that
you may drop. also, tie string to the cable(s) you are removing so as not
to drop them down and then you can use the string to pull up the new cables
as well. Trickiest part i remember was the clamp that holds the shift and
throttle cables midway down inside the pedestal. you need to get that
unclamped and free the cables from it.
any questions, i advise calling Edson -they are very helpful !BTW, while you are in there, might be a good time to replace the shaft brake
pads if you haven’t done so yet!Good luck!
Rodd
Windseeker
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