Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Hi Bob,
I looked at that part of the drawing and had to think. Since it also shows lines crossing each other that go from ground directly to the positive terminals of two batteies (and Patrick’s boat has not caught on fire or exploded as far as we know 😯 ) I assumed that the crossing lines did not indicated connections.
Skip[/img]
Hi Bob,
I may be missing something but Patrick’s original wiring diagram looks like it is already in two separate banks, 4 batteries in one, 2 batteries in the other.
If you number the batteries in Patrick’s diagram 1-6 starting at the top left corner and going clockwise, it looks to me that 1-2 are one bank wired to the battery selector switch. 3-4 and 5-6 are wired as the second bank to the other pole on the selector switch. I cannot see a link from the positive terminal of bank 1-2 to a positive terminal on the other bank of 3-4 & 5-6 unless you mean the line across the poles inside the battery switch which I don’t think was the intent of the drawing?
Regards
SkipHi Patrick,
Looks like you have two banks, both of course 12V. The batteries are wired in pairs in series to get the 12V but one series pair is paralleled together giving you have 4 batteries in one bank and 2 in the other.
If you look closely at the diagram all the grounds are wired together which is correct. Then one positive goes to one pole on the battery switch. Then two positives are wired together and then to the other pole on th battery switch.
Well, first a disclaimer, I follow the school of thought that your anchor is not big enough until dockwalkers stop, point and stare at it.
Currently using a 20 Kg (44 lb) Rocna that I love but wish I had gone at least one size larger which I think was 55 lbs. Not sure if I would recommend the new Rocnas due to the controversy over the new ones made in China, low grade steel, etc. Might go with the Manson Supreme but not a fan of their “Rock Slot” design. Of course you don’t have to use the slot but still it annoys me to have it there.
Chain I would go min 5/16 but when I buy new I think I will go with 3/8 which appears to be what my gypsy wants. I use all chain on my primary. Old chain only has about 120′ after cutting 10-15′ off each end but when I buy new will probably go with 200′.
For the second anchor will go with a Fortress, probably 30-35 lb range, some chain, probably 25-50′ and the rode that came on the boat which I think is 3/4″.
Will keep the old 35lb CQR as the third anchor.
Hi Patrick,
I ordered a remote dual oil filter for my W58 and it came with cut to length flexible hose and fittings to assemble onto the ends. I assume this type of system would work with replacing the standard oil hoses.
Since the hoses came with a kit not sure where to get the hoses separate from the rest of the parts but they do not look like custom parts made just for the filter.
Skip
Interesting report about the blisters. When I bought my Pearson in 2009 the haul for survey revealed 25 years of accumulated bottom paint and thousands of blisters. I popped a number of the larger ones and none seemed to be deep at all. When I got it back to FL I had the bottom pealed and found none of them went past the gel coat. Basically the bottom looked really good as soon as we hit the first layer of glass.
Barrier coat starts going on in a couple of weeks.
I didn’t look closely at the rudder to see if it was gel coated or not. Will check that tonight.
Really been thinking about what, if anything, to do about the pit. I hate the fact that I can’t get in there to clean it and anything that drops within about 5-6′ of the bilge will inevitably go straight into the most inaccessible corner of the pit. BUT, if it is filled and you don’t get a good, permanent seal all around the fill then you have potentially created a worse problem with no way to get the fill out without cutting the floor apart.
In my case that concern is possibly greater than most because the previous owner managed to spill his oil change bucket into the bilge and I have spent the last few months cleaning the bilge. Without access to completely clean the glass in the pit I think it unlikely that anything will adhere, even 5200.
So, unless someone can recommend a fill material that is impervious to water and will also bond to oil covered fiberglass I think I will have to live with the pit appreciate its function as a sump and be sure to never again drop any nuts, bolts or small parts anywhere on the boat.
Have you considered stowing the pole on the mast? Use a longer track, keep the inboard end of the pole clipped on the mast and hoist it up to vertical when not using it.
Yes. Removed all the chainplates for the shrouds and even though they looked fine, went ahead a fabricated new ones. Next step is to remove the bolts on the fore and aft chainplates for inspection. Those are a bit more of a fabrication so hoping I can keep them.
Completely agree. Keeping the primary steering system in order always the best option but I do like to make sure the emergency system works. By that I mean it actually works and doesn’t just look good in port.
Like you, the only failures I have experienced were in the AP itself but have had friends that had to use the tiller before. In one case in a new Gulfstar 50 a part failed due to a bad casting that was undetectable until it broke. Hard to guard against that sort of failure.
I may have to think about this one. One one hand, it takes the same total force to move the rudder whether one does by the Edson cables or an AP drive arm. But, the cables are a pull/pull system and are connected to the quadrant at designated points so may better disperse the overall force than the AP attached at one point.
On a semi related issue, have you tested the emergency tiller? I hooked mine up while on the hard and can barely move the rudder due to resistance in the cables and steering system. I think that would have to be disconnected if circumstances required use of the tiller for any time at all.
@quent wrote:
Jim-
Regarding a below deck unit, Edson the steering unit manufacturer is pretty much opposed to attaching to the steering quadrant. Tiller arms are available from other sources.Really? I missed that one. The drive for the Autohelm that came on my Pearson was attached directly to the quadrant. Guess another foul up from the PO.
Any particular reason why Edson is opposed to attachment to the quadrant?
Skip
If you are only coastal cruising or island hopping you can get away with a wheel pilot. For long distance sailing I would prefer a below decks unit.
Below decks units will all require similar attachment to the quadrant and a solid attachment point to the hull.
Hi Charlie,
The tank is not an add on or replacement but original installation in the 422 or at least in hull #19, 1984 model. What is odd to me is the tank is not an area of bilge area that is walled in to make a tank but a separate fabrication that fits the profile of the well and glassed into place, leaving a gap around most of the tank, about 2-3″ in the front and back, about 5″ under the tank and about 1″ on the sides following the curve of the hull.
Since the tank is under the floor and between frames it is hard to see exactly it is attaced but seems to be mainly between the top sides of the tank and the hull. It could be supported in spots on the bottom or lower on the sides but can’t see to tell.
To remove the tank you would have to cut the floors out forward of the engine, between the galley and nav station.
So all that is my concern. The space under that tank is as inaccessible as a different dimension and it is as attractive to matter as a black hole. So no way to easily clean the space or retrieve anything that falls in. So I want to completely clean it once and for all and then seal it up so future bilge cleaning will be much less of an ordeal. The added benefit, when I drop the irreplaceable, left handed, fine thread, metric, gold plated lock nut that connects the framus to the widget I might be able to retrieve it.
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Charlie,
The tank is not an add on or replacement but original installation in the 422 or at least in hull #19, 1984 model. What is odd to me is the tank is not an area of bilge area that is walled in to make a tank but a separate fabrication that fits the profile of the well and glassed into place, leaving a gap around most of the tank, about 2-3″ in the front and back, about 5″ under the tank and about 1″ on the sides following the curve of the hull.
Since the tank is under the floor and between frames it is hard to see exactly it is attaced but seems to be mainly between the top sides of the tank and the hull. It could be supported in spots on the bottom or lower on the sides but can’t see to tell.
To remove the tank you would have to cut the floors out forward of the engine, between the galley and nav station.
So all that is my concern. The space under that tank is as inaccessible as a different dimension and it is as attractive to matter as a black hole. So no way to easily clean the space or retrieve anything that falls in. So I want to completely clean it once and for all and then seal it up so future bilge cleaning will be much less of an ordeal. The added benefit, when I drop the irreplaceable, left handed, fine thread, metric, gold plated lock nut that connects the framus to the widget I might be able to retrieve it.
