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My email server for some reason is blocking the mail from the Pearson site and have not been able to get them (att, not Pearson424) to fix it so I have to check the site periodically.
Sounds like you’re making progress. Congratulations.
I can relate. Just splashed after seven years on the hard and a pretty extensive overhaul of my 422. Didn’t replace the engine or mast but replaced or overhauled just about everything else. Just have one final headache I haven’t been able to solve with the stuffing box and I might actually be able to go somewhere.
Skip
So far, the RV-26 I installed is working well, no issues. I have two complaints with the V-drive, the lack of fresh-water cooling and the shabby coating they use on it. I touch-up the paint every year or so. My Yanmar engine has a very durable paint, possibly baked-on enamel. It stays clean and doesnât rust. The V-drive however turns into a bucket of rust if I donât touch it up every year.
The RV-26 has an oil cooler that runs through the cooling jacket. This is just a cupernickel pipe. It will make cleaning the cooling jacket pretty difficult in the future. Like the RV-20, it is just a matter of time before corrosion in the cooling jacket becomes an issue with the RV-26.
Rich
Thanks Rich,
I can see why routing the fresh water cooling through the V-drive wouldn’t work since the water will be about 180 F. OK for a block but not much for a v-drive.
Paint on mine is also garbage. Tried to clean it to bare metal, prime and paint while I was doing an overhaul but it was rusted again before I launched.
Is anyone else making a decent v-drive? If I ever have to repower (knock on wood) it would be interesting to see if there are any better options out there.
I assume you have the RV-20 as originally built. Cases are no longer available. Unless you can find a good used one, perhaps from freshwater, you’re hosed. If you haven’t already read my notes, here’s a link.Hi Rich,
Had read all the posts on your website in the past but it has been a while so went back again when I saw your post here.
You didn’t seem very enamored of the Walter RV-26 when you installed it. The PO of my boat also replaced the original RV-20 with an RF-26 so interested in how it’s worked for you. Any mechanical issues?
By the way, based on comments and experiences from several other Pearson owners I’m going to try mine without the raw water cooling.
Thanks
SkipCongratulations Paul, Hope you enjoy your Pearson as much as I’m enjoying mine.
So, what part of the world are you boating in?
My guess, if the drive sat for a long time with water in the oil it will have to be torn down.
If you do want to give it a go, drain and fill, drain and fill a couple of times and then let it sit for a while. Maybe even squirt some special rust breaking fluid into the guts. Be careful with that as some of these will eat seals, o-rings and such.
After marinating for a while try again to see if it will turn. My concern strictly as an uneducated and uniformed amateur, is what if running it with corroded parts does further damage and makes a rebuild more expensive or even impossible?
Kiwi grip goes on with a trowel. It looks a lot more like paste or mastic than paint. One then rolls a specific roller on it. I used what looks like a 4 inch roller and had no real problems getting the texture right. You tape the section off, trowel it on, roll it, and immediately pull off the tape. The directions suggest a second coat, thinned out some, if you want less aggressive non-skid.
I hose out the bottom of my cockpit and that typically takes care of it. I have used a boat brush to scrub it some in the past; it did not see that onerous.
Thanks. Appreciate the information. Think I will have to give it a try.
Skip
I have had good luck with Kiwi grip. I used it on the cockpit sole of another boat I have, its at least 6 years old of constant use and exposure to the elements, with no trouble so far.
Two questions about Kiwigrip. I saw a comment from one boater that used it who said it was a bit difficult to keep clean. Basically the texture created a lot of tiny cracks and crevices that captured dirt and was hard to get out without aggressive scrubbing with some kind of bristled brush.
Also, I’ve used a similar product at home to give texture to a wall paint and I found it really difficult to keep a consistent texture across a surface, especially around any edges where I have to trim in or can’t get a nice, long stroke with the roller.
So how’s your experience with these issues?
Lightening and you were on board. Bummer and freakout at the same time. Had lightening hit a power pole about 20′ away once, it was like an artillery round went off right next to me.
So what damage on the boat? Have you had time to assess?
I think Rig Rite is the source for all the old Pearson masts and such. According to their web site there are 2-3 different masts used on the Pearsons.
Hi Stephen,
Don’t have much info about the Paragon since I have the Velvet Drive. However when I was looking for parts I found complete transmissions, used and rebuilt plus rebuild kits on eBay for the BW Velvetdrive. I checked and found all the same for the Paragon. Does your transmission need to be replaced or could it be rebuilt? I found complete rebuild kits for $199.
The runners on my cutter are rigged the same way as Rob’s. From tangs on the mast between the spreaders and masthead to a tackle that attached to a ring slider on the genoa track on the toe rail.
I had a flexible coupling in my last boat which I liked a lot so looked in to putting one on my Pearson. However, when I was talking to Walter about a V-drive question I asked if there was a brand or model they recommended. Tech support at Walter said they did not recommend using any flexible coupling with their drives. I didn’t quite understand the explanation but didn’t push it as I had already had the guy in the line for a while and he seemed to be getting a bit antsy.
