[skipmac]

Found this old thread and wanted to find out if anyone actually filled the bottomless pit with concrete or any other material for that matter. I am seriously considering this option but want to make sure I’m not missing anything before taking an irrevocable step.

First, my situation is a bit different as I am not really an owner of a 424 but instead the 422 mutation. Hope this confession doesn’t get me tossed off the forum.

In the 422 there is a fiberglass tank over the sump but the tank is not totally integral to the hull. Instead, it appears to be fabricated separately and then set into the well and glassed onto the hull, leaving a thin gap around the sides (+/- 1″) and under the tank (about 5″ high).

The area is completely inaccessible, to the point that I can’t even get a mirror to a spot to allow me to look into the space, much less reach into the space for cleaning or retrieving parts. From aft the frame supporting the V-drive blocks access, from forward there is a floor frame just in front of the water tank and just a small gap between the front edge of the water tank and the spot where the bilge drops down into the sump.

I am not so much concerned about a weak point there as just to seal off a place that collects stuff that could potentially float up and block a bilge pump in an emergency. Plus I can’t even get a pressure washer nozzle in there to clean the space and I’m trying to clear out 25 years of sludge and grease and want to keep it clean.

The only possible concern is, depending on how I do this, it may create two separate bilge areas requiring separate pumps. That I can accept but any other concerns or problems that I may create?

So, has anyone done it? What material did you end up using? Happy with the results?

Thanks
Skip

PS
I taped a 5′ piece of water hose to my vacuum cleaner and manged to feed it into the pit. Came out with 2 rags, assorted pieces of wood and plastic, pieces of tie wraps, a socket, several nuts bolts and washers and a couple of unidentified parts.

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[skipmac]

Found this old thread and wanted to find out if anyone actually filled the bottomless pit with concrete or any other material for that matter. I am seriously considering this option but want to make sure I’m not missing anything before taking an irrevocable step.

First, my situation is a bit different as I am not really an owner of a 424 but instead the 422 mutation. Hope this confession doesn’t get me tossed off the forum.

In the 422 there is a fiberglass tank over the sump but the tank is not totally integral to the hull. Instead, it appears to be fabricated separately and then set into the well and glassed onto the hull, leaving a thin gap around the sides (+/- 1″) and under the tank (about 5″ high).

The area is completely inaccessible, to the point that I can’t even get a mirror to a spot to allow me to look into the space, much less reach into the space for cleaning or retrieving parts. From aft the frame supporting the V-drive blocks access, from forward there is a floor frame just in front of the water tank and just a small gap between the front edge of the water tank and the spot where the bilge drops down into the sump.

I am not so much concerned about a weak point there as just to seal off a place that collects stuff that could potentially float up and block a bilge pump in an emergency. Plus I can’t even get a pressure washer nozzle in there to clean the space and I’m trying to clear out 25 years of sludge and grease and want to keep it clean.

The only possible concern is, depending on how I do this, it may create two separate bilge areas requiring separate pumps. That I can accept but any other concerns or problems that I may create?

So, has anyone done it? What material did you end up using? Happy with the results?

Thanks
Skip

PS
I taped a 5′ piece of water hose to my vacuum cleaner and manged to feed it into the pit. Came out with 2 rags, assorted pieces of wood and plastic, pieces of tie wraps, a socket, several nuts bolts and washers and a couple of unidentified parts.

[skipmac]

@norris larson wrote:

I discovered after some years that the hook had worn the galvanizing off several chain links. The rolling hitches, of course, won’t do that.

Have heard this from several sailors so tie in myself but use a Prussic Knot.

@norris larson wrote:

I don’t think it is a good idea to run a line or chain off the end of the anchor sprit, unless someone can prove that the sprit will take loads the forward cleats will.

That is a thought that occurred to me as well. Another reason to go for an eye on the bow. Meanwhile if anchored in a blow guess it’s a good idea to go with a bridle to the cleats.

[skipmac]

@SilverHeels wrote:

Hi Skipmac,

The dancing at anchor probably came from moving the pull of the anchor
off-center on the hull.

Tor

---

SilverHeels, P-424 #17

Exactly. What surprised me is how little the Pearson sailed at anchor. I’ve had a couple of boats with rollers and always ran the line or chain straight off the bow but still would hunt back and forth as much as 30-40 degrees from side to side. With the Pearson I never saw a 5 degree hunt at anchor.

So other than reducing the angle to the anchor did you see any difference in using the eye on the bow like pitching more or less in a choppy anchorage?

[skipmac]

Hi Tor,

I had also been thinking about running a snubber line through a pad eye on the bow for all the reasons discussed. Glad to see you’ve already thought it out and debugged the process for me, but a question.

I have been very pleasantly surprised to see my 422 does not sail at the anchor when I run my anchor line over the bow roller. I mean not at all, point dead straight into the wind and stay that way even in a pretty good blow. When I added a snubber line I initially ran it through the bow chocks and started sailing all over the anchorage so ran the snubber over the the roller and back to steady.

So, first question, have you or anyone else had a similar experience? Does the 42 typically ride so well at anchor (certainly none of my other boats ever did so)? Then does moving the lead to the padeye down on the bow, other than giving a better/lower angle pull to the anchor, change the way the boat rides at anchor especially increase (or decrease) sailing?

[skipmac]

Y próspero año nuevo.

[skipmac]

john stevenson wrote:

You can convert to internal halyards without pulling the mast, but it is
advisable to put all the electrical wires in a conduit. something Pearson
did not do on at least the early models. That will require pulling the
stick. I always convert simple projects into complex ones.

Quote:

Hi John,

Am doing the conversion to 4 internal halyards and also wanted to pull conduit for the wires. Your website mentioned you pop riveted the conduit to the mast which was also my plan but so far have not come up with a simple sounding method to do so.

Running the wires into the conduit and pushing that up the mast (yes it’s out of the boat) no problem but how to drill holes through the mast and into the conduit with having a trained muskrat to run up the inside of the mast to hold the conduit in place while drilling?

The best idea I have so far is to drill a couple of initial holes to run a line inside the mast, around the conduit, back out the hole and tie off to capture the conduit and hold it in place. Then drill the rest of the holes and rivet in place. So, how did you do it?

Thanks
Skip

[skipmac]

Called John McMaster at SL Spares today to ask about my gypsy. He again offered a wealth of information with no guarantee that I would be purchasing any additional parts from him.

I also learned that he is having new parts and even new windlasses manufactured including new Seawolf 520 reversing motors, new cases and apparently complete new winches are planned. If you want he will do a complete overhaul on your S-L winch and send it back like new.

No connection with SL Spares but maybe if he gets enough business from the US he will send me a free spare motor.

[skipmac]

Bought some parts to rebuild my Seawolf 520 from John and was quite happy with the process. Parts aren’t cheap but considering his investment in the inventory I can’t complain.

Also called him a couple of times with questions about the parts and one detail on the assembly and he was very helpful there as well. He obviously knows the units.

Highly recommended.

Skip

[skipmac]

Hi Pete

Thank you very much. You’ve got a great resource for Pearson info there.

Very best
Skip

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