[skipmac]

Hi Rich,

Looked at the Thoosa data and came up with all the same questions and concerns you mention, especially no power source. The concern about the 12 KW max power is partially answered by noting that the motor’s 12KW rating is continuous but 24 KW intermittent.

Since, in my case, most of the long range powering will be motor sailing with only partial engine power or motoring in a calm when it takes much less HP to mover the boat at hull speed so I could live with a lower continuous rating as long as I had the short term power for docking, getting out of a tight spot, etc.

But still 12KW/24KW is on the low side.

Also still does not address the range issue. It is impossible to put enough battery capacity in a boat to motor more than a few hours, even at very low speed so a generator is necessary. If you size the gennie to match the electric motor you are looking at min 12 KW gennie, a large and very expensive machine.

So, as far as I can tell, electric power is just not yet ready for prime time but I still find it interesting and will keep watching developments in the technology.

[skipmac]

@Ted & Elaine wrote:

Let us know when you will be arriving.  We have Bel Esprit II at the St. Petersburg Municipal Marina which is right in front of the show. We will be on the boat that weekend.  Maybe we can get together for a cold one.

Ted Riley & Elaine Patton-Riley
Bel Esprit II
727-430-0457

________________________________

Thank you for the invite. Current plans to come one day on the weekend. Will come by and say hello.

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[skipmac]

I have spoken to the folks at Annapolis Hybrid Marine, the US Thoosa dealer. They are installing a system on a 44′ cruiser and will be publishing the test results when done. I plan to stop by their booth at the St Pete boat show in Dec to get an update on the project and will post the what I learn.

Their website

http://www.annapolishybridmarine.com/electric_boat_motors.cfm

[skipmac]

Would like to know that myself. I’ve used online metals for a few odd sizes or small pieces of SS and Al I needed and also a couple of pieces of UHMWPE I used to rebuild my mast step. Maybe not cheap but a good selection and good service.

Have not found a better source for small quantities and certainly looked.

[skipmac]

If you can’t find a stock tank, Triple M Plastics in Maine will make a custom tank to any dimensions you like. Price pretty reasonable as well.

[skipmac]

Again I agree. Not saying electric is right or wrong in general, just not right for my plans and style of cruising. There are places I want to go that you can’t go without strong power and range, like the rivers and canals of Europe. Also would prefer to motor through a calm than spend spend an extra day or three waiting for the wind.

Cruised a bit without an engine myself. Boat had one but I couldn’t afford the fuel so sailed everywhere. Quite doable and good for skills building but limits some of your options.

[skipmac]

I have been researching various electric drive systems for a couple of years and have to agree with Tor. For serious cruising I want at least 300 nm range plus enough reserve power to get me out of a jam if I need it.

The range requirement is achievable but will require a diesel genset, either direct DC or AC with a DC converter. However, without the genset to reach even 100-200 nm range under power would require enough batteries to replace all the ballast in the boat. Solar and wind, even at max, are not enough for continuous motoring except at very low speed.

Power is another thing. Electricyacht.com their biggest system is rated as equivalent to 23-30 HP engine, 18 continuous at the shaft. This is typical of most systems I have found.

Now you do lose a good bit in parasitic loads with a diesel, water pumps, alternator, transmission, etc but most estimates I see range 10-20% so a W58 would give at least 46 useable HP. With my original W58 I feel just a bit underpowered already, so to go with an equivalent electric of half that doesn’t seem right for my cruising plans.

Granted 99% of the time, motoring will be to leave the dock or make a few miles when the wind dies but there are those time when you need the power to punch into a head sea and wind or against a current in a tight channel where the extra HP could be critical.

Then there’s the bottom line. The 30 HP electricyacht system is equivalent to about 20 KW which is a big, expensive generator. Even going with a system with less HP than my W58, after adding the genset I would end up with double or triple the cost of a complete repower with diesel engine and transmission.

I love the idea but, for me, it is not yet ready for prime time but I’m hoping.

[skipmac]

Found a picture of the wind instrument on eBay. Mine looks identical. That one sold for $162. Maybe I should rethink my offer. 🙂

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Datamarine-Corinthian-LX360Q-Wind-Speed-Direction-/320718960459

[skipmac]

@RLeeds wrote:

Skip-
I don’t need the instrument itself, mine works fine. What I do need is the
mounting round glass case that holds the datamarine depth gauge. If you
have that I would appreciate it.
Thanks.

Rodd Leeds
Windseeker

Hi Rod,

Looked at the display. I can unscrew the black ring that goes around the front of the unit. Is that what you mean? Mine unit was mounted by caulking this ring to the side of the hole in the coaming.

Beyond that there is the glass face of the display which looks like it may come off by removing three screws on the back of the case?

Model number S100KL if that helps.

If you want you can to call to discuss

three five two – three seven eight – five three six three

[skipmac]

@Boat1stlady wrote:

SKIP – YES! I need an anemometer wind display instrumnt. Mine is an
Autohelm (RAYMARINE), probably 8-10 years old. Does yours look anything like the
one in the attached pic?

~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMA

Hi Bill,

Mine is not Autohelm but a Datamarine, model LX360Q (NOTE: that last may be another zero instead of Q, hard to see for certain).

It does sort of resemble the Raymarine but is a round case, not square. On the back all connections are screw terminals.

3 power, + – and light.
7 data for the wind instruments input.

Have no clue if the readout/display is compatible with the Rarmarine unit. Maybe you can find an electronics tech that could say.

Skip

[skipmac]

@petedd wrote:

Of course… the boat needs to be in the water when you do this, not on
the hard.

Pete

Most definitely. Since I’ve been on the hard for two years I plan to let the boat sit in the water for a few days before the initial alignment and recheck after a few weeks.

[skipmac]

Hi Pete,

Already found this one and think it the best article on the subject I have read to date. Will be following these procedures for the testing and measurement steps, as soon as I feel comfortable about the procedure for making the adjustments on the motor mounts.

Thanks
Skip

@petedd wrote:

Good article on alignment here:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Manuals/Drive%20Train%20and%20Fuel%20System/GetInLine%20Alignment%20Instructions.pdf

Pete

[skipmac]

Ok, that makes me jealous. Think the alignment procedure for the separate v-drive would be a piece of cake, easier even than aligning a straight prop shaft.

On the other hand, I don’t have to pull my engine to reach the fuel tanks. 🙂

@madsailor wrote:

Yup, all 424s have the same arrangement. It’s actually a pretty good one
since it’s easier to align the v-drive than it is a whole engine and stuff.
The engine is just plopped down on beds and that’s it.

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

http://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum[/quote]

[skipmac]

Hi Patrick,

Sounds like a good idea. I have been speaking to another 422 owner that had his engine pulled to reinforce the engine bed. So far his reports on the mechanic’s work sound promising and I am waiting to see how he does on the reinstallation and alignment. If it comes out well will report the results here.

Meanwhile, do all the 424s have the separate v-drive connected to the tranismission with a drive shaft?

[skipmac]

Sorry. I forgot to mention that my v-drive is directly bolted to the BW Velvet drive. No drive shaft to the v-drive so the whole package; engine, transmission and v-drive are all one, big unit to align to the prop shaft flange together. Therein lies the complication.

The other problem, I’m not sure there are any “pros” locally that have experience in this rig and would probably trust myself to figure it out better than depending on an inexperienced mechanic to mess it up.

[Author]

Posts