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Is 220 miles close? I’m in Gainesville, occasionally Green Cove Springs. If you’re driving to Ft Pierce you’re even closer.
What engine to choose and the costs involved I think would be determined by how you use the boat. If just to get from dock to channel and no long distance motoring ever planned then maybe going for the less expensive option would be justified. But in that case, how bad is the W58? If the compression is good then why not do a little maintenance and keep the W58.
For me, part of the decision making process is the thought that if I’m going through the huge hassle of replacing the engine I want one that will be 100% reliable and easy to repair and maintain. Lighter and quieter is nice as well. All that comes with the Beta.
So how bad is your W58?
The teak trim pieces are for the small Beckson plastic ports that have the 5″ X 12″ cutout in the cabin. So fit the NFM standard SS 512 rectangular port. I can take some photos if you’re interested.
Skip
By the way. If I recall correctly, Beta Marine is a UK company so you should be able to contact them locally to get information and pricing. If shipping the engine out of the EU maybe even get it VAT free.
Hi Mark,
I would recommend a Beta 50 or 60. Pete Dubler repowered his 424 with a Beta 50 and posted an excellent report about the decision making process and the repower project on his web site here. http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Articles/Engine%20Installation.pdf
I pealed the bottom of my 1084 422 to do an epoxy barrier coat. 100% the hull is balsa cored below the waterline. Also the deck is balsa cored.
If the core in the hull is wet then $35K might be too much. That large an area would be a huge job to repair.
A couple of years ago there was a 422 for sale (in TX if I recall) that was really cheap. I called the broker and got some information on the boat. He claimed ignorance but from the description and some of the work that had been done to the interior it seemed obvious to me that the boat had been full of water, one way or another.
Unless you are getting a super, super deal on the W64 I would go new. So much of the cost of a repower is in the time and labor it makes sense to me to go ahead and spend a few boat bucks more for a new engine.
Also, I’m pretty fed up with Westerbeke. Their parts are grossly overpriced and for older engines getting hard to find. I finally figured out a W58 is the same engine as the Perkins 4.154 and found the exact same parts for a fraction of the cost. Example, Westerbeke water pump $280. Identical pump from Perkins (except painted blue instead of red) $90.
If at all possible do with a Beta marine engine.
Another recommendation for the NFM ports. If you wait for a boat show you can get the boat show discount even ordering direct from the factory.
My cabin sides were also solid, no core. Also replaced all the veneer siding when I replaced the ports. If you do the wood I got a perfect match buying teak veneer plywood and staining with Minwax Gunstock stain.
Also, I bought the teak trim pieces from NFM but ended up not using them. If anyone is interested I have several, eight if I recall, already stained and coated with ten coats of hand rubbed varnish. A deal can be had.
I have read several posts in the past from V-drive owners that just disconnected the raw water cooling to the drive. Supposedly did not run hot at all, even after hours at cruising speed under power and of course solved the corrosion problem.Any consensus or opinions pro or con on doing this?Skip
Thanks Tor,I’ve used Easypoxy for a couple of boat projects and so far happy with the results. Wondered if it would be a good choice for this application as well.Skip
I’m another that removed the eyebrow, same reasons. Constant leaks and the neglected teak strips were on the way out anyway. Have temporary patches on the holes while I decide what to do. I have a fiberglass guy that is really good at matching gel coat but painting a stripe might be easier (and cheaper).What kind of paint did anyone use to do the stripe?
OK. Trying to upload a diagram and failing. I have done it before so can’t be me. 😆
I have tried to upload images in .pdf and .jpeg formats and keep getting this message.
Sorry, but the maximum filesize for all Attachments is reached. Please contact the Board Administrator if you have questions.
Maybe something to do with the new site? I go to the Pearson424 home page, select “Forums/Lists” and try the first selection “Forums” which gives me the new forum page but that list doesn’t know me and I can’t log in. So next try “BB2 Forum (archival) which lets me log in but I get the above error message when I try to upload any file.
????????
@John Stevenson via mai… wrote:
Skip,
I saw your cross-section diagram on the CF and understand the problem. Is
there a reason you just don’t replace the track with one that doesn’t have
the hollow space? Sounds like a good time to do so.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogHi John,
That thought did occur to me but
1. Would have to order the track and wait for it, plus would have to be curved just right to fit the deck camber.
2. Except for this stupid slot in the track it is in good shape, works fine, holes are drilled in the deck to match.
3. I’m cheap and hate to spend money for something I think I can make work.
@Robert Fine via maillist wrote:
Skip, could you send a picture of your staysail track? I’ve been
wondering about the best way to control the thing.Bob
Hi Bob,
Will try to remember to take a picture of the setup when I’m out on the boat this afternoon. Fairly simple setup. The track looks about like the track for the mainsheet, installed in front of the mast but curved to fit the camber of the cabin top.
There’s also a little pedestal mounted by the staysail stay to to mount the staysail boom. Do you have that or any of this?
Skip
