Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
This just keeps getting better.
Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I hadn’t seen that Jamestown warning about painting over the zinc spray. So,
yes, I put copper-based antifouling over it and was amazed at how well the
bottom paint stuck, even (as I said) on the prop blades. I sprayed & painted
my bronze screens inside & out, too.Putting zinc anode in between bronze (which I believe contains copper) and
copper-based bottom paint does seem like a potential electrolysis issue,
although the zinc is what’s going to go first. Anyway, last haul-out I
cleaned and re-painted the bronze and saw no problems.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Excellent reminder and resource. Thanks!
Tor
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
No need to hinge a screen. They’re usually held to the hull by several
screws. Easy enough to unscrew them during haul-out and clean things up
inside. I’ve found that spraying bronze – screens, props, shafts, etc – with
Petit Barnacle Barrier, a spray-on zinc product, not only serves as an
anode, but also acts like a primer and enables copper-based bottom paint to
stick to the bronze fittings long-term – even on the propeller! So my
screens are anti-fouled and don’t tend to fill up with critters.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
We might also encourage each other to only attach downsized photos. 500
pixels wide is usually plenty for an illustration. Every once in a while
someone sends HUGE photographs to this list, several megabytes-worth. Such
big files can take those of us with marginal wifi signals a long time to
download.Just a thought.
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Silverheels had no thru-hull screens when I got her. I installed a big one
over the engine intake. It may be what you’re calling a scoop. (The wifi
where I’m anchored right now is too weak to visit the URL’s you guys are
providing as illustrations.) My bronze screen cover is shaped like a wedge
of cheese and perforated all over with small holes. I mounted it with the
tapered end facing forward. Perhaps this provides some scooping effect, but
it has not caused any problems in 6 years that I know of, and nothing has
ever clogged that intake. I put a half-round bronze screen cover over
Silverheels only other intake thru-hull, which feeds the seawater intake
manifold that services everything that uses seawater besides the engine.
Nothing has ever clogged that, either.I don’t sail with nettles or masses of weeds, but the ocean contains of all
kinds of debris including plastic. I’ve always thought some kind of screen
is necessary over intake thru-hulls.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thanks, Rich. As always, your depth of knowledge leaves me gasping. Being much more the layman myself, I just followed manufacturer’s specs and the advice of a professional marine electrician who happened to be docked nearby. Having used a nearly identical set-up with excellent results on my last boat for 6 years and 30k miles of liveaboard cruising – a system designed and installed by an electrical engineer and marine electronics guru – I have hopes that what I have installed this time will once again prove to be adequate. However, this 424, its windlass and ground tackle are bigger, so the true test will be in my upcoming shakedown cruise. (That’s precisely why I’m starting my cruise with an East Coast shakedown this summer.)
My understanding is that the forward battery can operate the windlass all by itself for the 30 seconds or less that it must and I can isolate it to do that if I choose to, allowing it to recharge gradually later. Here the charging voltage comes from the house bank, a 525 amp, 5-battery set of AGM’s under the foot of the aft bunk, which in turn is fed by the alternator, wind generator, battery charger and (soon) solar panels. I often sail off anchor engineless just for fun, so I would not want to rely on the alternator to reinforce the power in the windlass battery when in use.
I do appreciate your feedback on this system. Had I been smart enough to consult you 2 years ago I might have done it differently, although I personally prefer locating the windlass’ battery forward both to shorten the distance between power source and end user and, as you say, to avoid the weight and expense of running 2/0 wire so far.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Linus,
I used 2-ply 6 AWG cable to carry the charge forward from the battery switch aft of the nav station to the windlass’ dedicated battery mounted just aft of the forward water tank (offset to port). I employed two 100-amp breakers in the system, one at the after end of the charging cable next to the battery switch, and one at the battery end of the 1 AWG battery-to-windlass cable, which you can see in that photo you referenced:
battery switch__breaker____________(6 AWG cable)_____________windlass battery__breaker______(1 AWG cable)_______windlass
I ran the charging cable beneath the floorboards, high and to starboard, along with a bunch of other wires traveling forward, bundled in a flexible rubber-foam tubing stuff from Home Depot (for chafe protection), the whole suspended from the floorboard frames by tie wraps along the way. The “other wires” run to the mast/bow distribution panel (under the starboard aft vanity seat in the forepeak), the deckwash pump (in the upper forward chain locker), and one or two other items along the way. Conduit would’ve been preferable, both for support and protection, but I installed the various wires in that bundle at different times, so I needed a split tubing to slip over them all after the last wire was in place.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Paul,
Attached is the correct photo #6b, which gives a better view of the 2-part, removable chain locker divider in place. I can remove it through the forepeak bulkhead “doorway” now, opening up the locker space and allowing me to squeeze my upper torso in there enough reach most of the stuff inside. Building in a fixed, permanent divider, my original intention, would’ve been big mistake.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Interesting tale with a happy ending – except for the rain. Take comfort in the knowledge that it is raining along the entire East Coast, as well, including here on the St. John’s River.
I’ve never done any work on the bottom of my boat’s sump/keel, so cannot say what’s in there. Sounds like another area for the rest of us to keep an eye on.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Very nice!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Joe,
Out here in the boondocks we have a pretty good and very reasonable machine shop just down the road. I know
they have made stainless shafts for a number of boats here in the marina, and I believe the guy mentioned to
me that he was charging around $200 for them. Might be worth a phone call:Chuck Coats
shop: 904-529-1758
cell: 904-572-2183Feel free to mention my name. I’ve used him for a bunch of jobs in recent months. Presently having a pair of
stainless handles fabricated, and am discussing with him the possibility of converting my mountain bike to a
folding bike. He’s honest and reliable and would probably ship a shaft for you.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Well, Bob, I do admire big spenders. The “cost and aggravation of replacing that plastic” in my case was a couple of dollars for the plastic + a couple of boat hours (equaling half-a-day for me) to cut and install it. I figure it’s now good for at least 10 years, perhaps more. Even putting cost and aggravation aside, I generally prefer simple mechanical devices over electronics when they accomplish the same end without undue extra effort. Of course, I’m a technologically challenged wrench blowing smoke at an engineer. I’m sure your way will be an improvement over Pearson’s original.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Sorry, didn’t mean to step on your joke there, Joseph. Anyway, my decision was made 2 years ago when I replaced the lens with (as I said earlier) either Plexiglas or Lexan. I believe at the time I opted for the more scratch-resistant Plexiglas. Today it’s as clear as when new.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
How do you cut & drill tempered glass?
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
