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Decisions, decisions.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I don’t remember whether I used Plexiglas (acrylic) or Lexan (polycarbonate) when I replaced the portlight lens above my fuel gauge. I think (I hope) it was acrylic. My understanding (thanks to Google) is that acrylic, while less impact-resistant than polycarbonate, is more scratch-resistant. It will remain clear a lot longer, and in this application it seems to me clarity is the overriding factor. Polycarbonate (Lexan), in addition to scratching, also yellows over time from ultraviolet rays, further reducing our ability to read the gauge beneath it.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Dan,
You can replace the lens in the deck portlight with new acrylic, and the fuel gauge with an identical unit from West Marine. Then it works well enough.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Some PO did away with the white strip in between the antifouling and the boot stripe on my boat, and that seems sensible to me. Bare gel coat so near the waterline is bound to be dirty most of the time. Now I’m thinking of eliminating the boot stripe altogether, bringing the bottom paint up over it. Has anyone done that? Got photos?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Howard,
Not sure it this applies to your situation, but does the electric motor even try to turn in the non-working direction? I believe my 2-way electric windlass reverses directions because the “anchor down” switch and the “anchor up” switch reverse the current to the motor. If your motor doesn’t run at all in one direction, perhaps that switch is bad. Those deck-mounted foot switches are supposed to be waterproof, but eventually seawater sometimes does get into them and corrode the contacts.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Linus,
The attached photo may be what you found. I’m away from the boat for the next couple of weeks, so cannot take a better one for you right now.
I didn’t cut the rail. The boat came that way. While I have not sailed this boat enough yet to have experienced heavy weather in her, I believe the outboard is secure on its bracket since it is perched directly on top of a thru-bolted stanchion. The mizzen sheet attachment point on the other side of the “gate” is very strong thanks to the triangular support tubing directly beneath it, also thru-bolted, which I believe is Pearson’s handiwork.
Many years ago I managed to topple overboard from the foredeck of a former boat of mine while weighing anchor in a very remote spot, single-handed and entirely alone. The anchor had already broken free so the boat was in fact adrift with the main and mizzen sails hoisted and luffing. It could have been a mortally serious situation, but I was able to pull myself up onto the deck at the side boarding gate because I’m a fairly strong swimmer and, in 1977, was a fairly strong young man, as well. I’m not at all sure I could do the same now with this boat’s higher freeboard. My new ladder design is to ensure that I always have a way back onto the boat if I dive (or fall) overboard with the swim ladder in the up position. It’ll be held up with a slip knot, the trip line led to within reach of a swimmer. Of course, if I’m ever anchored in a harbor where I think a swimming intruder might make use of this feature to board the boat, I can always pull in the trip line as a castle under siege pulls in its drawbridge. Tally-ho!
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks, Dan. I’d be interested to know. If Home Depot has something truly applicable (and affordable), I’d probably buy it and find some other use for the pair I’m having made.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks, Pat. The handles you found are somewhat similar, but not right for my application. The 1-1/2″ O.D. (as opposed to 1″) is OK, but 1-1/2″ wall clearance isn’t, at least not for what I’m doing. (Oddly, they don’t mention the lengths of the various handles they’re offering.) I need the 4″ clearance like the handle Pearson mounted by the mid-ship companionway. Also, the mounts on this ADA handle are wimpy single bolts. The boat requires the 3″ around, 1/8″ or 3/16″ ss mounting plates with 3 holes for proper thru-bolting. ADA’s prices are nice, though.
I’m using the handles I’m having fabricated to continue the transom boarding ladder. I removed the original, cut and hinged it, and re-mounted it lower down and offset to port. Now it’ll be easier to climb up from the water, aligned with the offset stern rail gate instead of mid-ship, and it will fold up against the transom neatly without protruding above the afterdeck. However, this set up requires two more rungs above the folding ladder. That’s what I want the handles for, so they really do need to be strong and strongly mounted, with enough clearance for comfortable footing.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Dan,
All I can find searching Home Depot’s web site are faucet handles. In what department did you see stainless grab handles? What would you guess their dimensions were – length, standing height, pipe diameter? Were they on heavy-duty, round, stanchion-type, 3-holed bases? Are you certain the tubing was stainless steel and not chromed brass? (They can look nearly identical.) Hard to imagine Home Depot with that particular kind of handle in stainless, substantial enough for our applications, but I’d be delighted if it were so.
Meanwhile, I have the local country machine shop making a pair for me, $50 for both. His pipe bender can’t get the tight-radius bend the handles require, so I’m having him weld the turns as 90° (2×45°) to my specs – 1″ thick-walled tubing, etc. They won’t be polished pretty, but they’ll be strong, affordable, and perfectly suited to my need.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Pat,
Maybe it’s the time of year. All the northerners are busy prepping their boats for the summer season.
Either that or we all now know everything there is to know about boats and no longer have to ask each other.
🙂
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Bob,
Good call! They do have what looks like a same or similar handle, but at $100 each (including shipping) they seem way overpriced to me. I can make something similar for a tenth of that from a couple of secondhand stanchion bases and a piece of scrap tubing, or I might get lucky and find them at the Sailor’s Exchange used boat stuff store.
Thanks,
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Thanks, David. If it comes to custom fabrication I believe I could make it myself with a couple of stanchion bases and a pipe bender, to which I have access, but sometimes it’s more efficient to just buy something ready-made. I’ve seen those exact same handles on other boats of this vintage, so I know they are or were at one time mass produced. What I’m hoping to find out is (1) whether they still are, and (2) if so, by whom.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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5/16″ for the inner forestay.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Alan,
Not sure about your particular set-up, but in general if you turn a boat’s rudder too far it ceases to be a steering device and instead becomes a brake.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Alan,
Assuming you’re talking about anti-fouling, I generally paint the outside flanges of the seacocks along with the rest of the boat’s bottom, and up into the apertures as far as I can from the outside using a bit of paint-soaked rag on a stick. If by “intake screens on STB side only” you mean the grills that keep stuff out of the intakes, I’d recommend painting them, too, if you don’t want barnacles and seaweed growing on them.
This haul-out I have painted the propeller and most of the shaft with West epoxy first, then bottom paint over that. I believe the paint will adhere better to the epoxy than to the bare bronze on those moving parts. However, since Rich pointed out to me that the bronze strut is an important part of the boat’s grounding system, I did not insulate it with epoxy. I plan to try out the oft-touted black magic marker on the strut as an experiment, to see whether or not it really works. Similarly, I’m going to coat the short section of my bronze shaft and nuts aft of the prop, and also the bit of shaft between the prop and the strut, with Teflon grease to test Bob Fine’s assertion that this will stick to the bronze and prevent marine growth from doing likewise. Ask me 6 months from now what worked and what did not.
Or maybe you weren’t talking about anti-fouling at all…
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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