Forum Replies Created

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 225 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • in reply to: Westerbeke 58 Parts for sale #226052
    typhoontye
    Participant

    Looking for a starter for a W58!

    David
    Blue Moon, #189

    in reply to: Stern Boarding Ladder #226051
    typhoontye
    Participant

    Hello Ben,
    Don’t have a spare boarding ladder, but I did a mod that made my existing boarding ladder work a bit better for us. I had new offsets (4 ea) made for the ladder attach points. That is, the brackets that bolt to the transom were made longer than standard so the ladder stands out from the transom a bit further, particularly at the bottom. This reduced the ‘hanging off the back trying to climb an inverse sloping wall’ feeling. My wife likes it a lot better.

    Hopefully ya’ll survived the storm ok. When we cruised the East coast a couple of years ago we stayed on a mooring at a place just North of Woods Hole. We were thinking about that mooring field as the storm was approaching your area. Now we’re thinking of the developing action in the Gulf of Mexico…

    David
    Blue Moon (Ft Walton Be, FL)

    in reply to: Mast mounted mainsail halyard winch #226029
    typhoontye
    Participant

    Let me back up a little and provide some background info on my question: We obtained a new Lewmar 16, self tailing winch for the mainsail halyard. Mast mounted. It was to replace the aged, probably original, Lewmar 16 that is currently in that position. It is a non- self tailer. Basically, we got in a bit of a hurry and overlooked the fact that we were buying a single speed winch to replace a two speed model. I’m reluctant to mount the new single speed to see if it is sufficient because then I can’t in good conscience try to return it if I don’t like it. Sooo, if someone out there is using a single speed and is happy with it’s ability to provide sufficient luff tension on the main without busting a gut, I’d like to know that. Or, if someone is using something else that works well I would like to know that as well. I do plan on sticking with the mast mounted location….not interested in leading the halyard back to the cockpit.
    Thanks!

    David

    in reply to: Engine mounts #225994
    typhoontye
    Participant

    I installed new bushings from “The Bushings Inc”, sourced through Go2marine. PN DF2207-2. This is the part no. specified by them for the W58/Perkins 4-154. The new bushings improved the vibration problem I was having but it still vibrates, primarily when pulled back to idle and at certain RPMs. Changed engines at one point (another W58) and no change in the vibrations.

    I contacted The Bushings Inc and explained my unhappiness with the vibrations. They suggested I try the bushings for the Perkins 4-108. Same vibration isolator dimensionally, but softer rubber. To date I have not done so. If anyone else has done so I’d like to hear your results.

    I did go through the process of aligning the engine/V-drive, etc. (and have re-checked as I’ve moved components to facilitate other maintenance). Some improvement but not really better. The owner of a 4-108 on a Pearson 365 said he experienced a remarkable improvement from changing the U-joints on the drive shaft, even though his originals appeared fine. I did the same with no appreciable improvement.

    It’s interesting that when I observe engines operating on other sailing auxiliaries (generally boats that are newer and smaller than ours) the engines bounce around on their isolators a good bit at idle. On my 424, the engine is pretty much rock solid at idle. I guess the boat is what’s doing the moving vice the engine. Not necessarily the ideal arrangement!

    David
    Blue Moon

    in reply to: Seacock Lubrication #225962
    typhoontye
    Participant

    Thanks Jim. Sounds like your process works and is what most folks do for their ball valves. I went into this thing pretty ignorant…didn’t do any reading beforehand. I was able to find a reference from Steve D’Antonio (well known surveyor) where he describes installing grease (basically water resistant marine trailer bearing grease) through zerqs temporarily installed in place of the drain plugs. But the predominance of learned opinion seems to be to use a proper grease to coat the ball best you can from the bottom. A process is also described of coating the accessible side of the ball from the bottom, then opening the ball half way and sliding a brush or something to the top side of the ball and scraping some grease off on the top side too. Maybe I’ll try that.

    I think I’m leaning towards using an epoxy filler to fill the cavity left by the broken valve body drain plug. I think that’ll do it, and if it doesn’t it won’t sink the boat. Just a nasty seep of sea water that might or might not require specially hauling the boat. Frankly, I believe it’s already been doing that based on evidence of green stuff around that opening. The ‘fix’ should resolve that.

    I’m off to the boat yard. Thanks again Jim

    David

    in reply to: Nav station workstation light #225959
    typhoontye
    Participant

    Good tip Rich. I have a fuse holder in my stock so I can check this out. Thank you!

    David

    in reply to: Nav station workstation light #225956
    typhoontye
    Participant

    Thank you all for the comments and ideas! I was unaware of MarineBeam, so checked out their website. Some interesting products, including their wind turbine that appears to be pretty quiet. Quieter than my Breeze.
    They also have several LED flourescent style fixtures in various lengths, producing up to 500 lumens. I’m thinking I’ll make a choice and order one once I get to the boat and affirm the mounting. Five hundred lumens should be plenty.
    Regarding the strip of LEDs, I have that already. That is, the cut to length style LED strips. They are through out the vessel, under overhanging cabinets, and are great for mood lighting. But not close to bright enough for what I need to read charts with my less than optimal eyeballs.

    Thanks again
    David

    in reply to: Nav station workstation light #225946
    typhoontye
    Participant

    Let me try these photos again. Apparently I don’t know what I’m doing.

    20210215_110228

    20210215_110303

    Attachments:
    1. 20210215_110228-rotated.jpg

    2. 20210215_110303-rotated.jpg

    in reply to: Nav station workstation light #225945
    typhoontye
    Participant

    I’ve had that too, Rich. What has failed is the bulb holder itself. It’s a single contact bayonet, and the positive conductor contact point (spring loaded) had apparently disintegrated and disappeared. Perhaps I can order a bulb holder from an electronics supplier and cobb this back together.

    Apologies in advance if these photos are no good… Trying not to overwhelm our system. the first photo is the back side of the fixture. The other is the front side

    David

    in reply to: Physical access to the engine front #225847
    typhoontye
    Participant

    Hmmm. Well that’s curious! I don’t think mine is unique…pretty standard ketch with one head. Nav station by the aft companionway, just to starboard. On mine, the hanging locker (wet locker) is basically part of the engine bay. Only thing separates the two spaces is pegboard. That is relatively easily removed. Opens up access to the left side of the engine (since the engine faces aft) and also opens up access to the front of the engine. My vessel is a relatively late model, #189. Perhaps the fiberglass you are looking at is a removable panel?

    David

    in reply to: Hot Water heater tpe/placement #225843
    typhoontye
    Participant

    Hello Rich,

    We have the ISOTEMP Basic. Can’t remember the exact model, but it is 6 gallons. It was originally installed by the PO in Jan ’11. Then replaced under warranty in Jan ’14. I think the reason for replacement had to do with the 120V heater element, but could be off on that.

    Ours is located where your Raritan is located now. Right near the seacock for the cockpit drain in the port side lazarette. Tough to access that seacock as a consequence. The HW heater is secured to a plywood platform glassed into the boat.

    The unit has been reliable, but I’ve had a heck of a time keeping it primed with engine coolant. Seems I have to burp it quite often if I want to have hot water. I’ve been through the usual culprits quite thoroughly. On my list to work on some more…

    David
    Blue Moon

    in reply to: thinking of getting folding prop #225839
    typhoontye
    Participant

    Well I forgot to mention one of the most important parts in my previous post (see above)…
    My engine is a W58, 58 horsepower.

    David

    in reply to: thinking of getting folding prop #225825
    typhoontye
    Participant

    Mine is a flex-o-fold, 18X11. Compares very favorably with the original prop’s performance. I cruise between 1900 and 2300 RPM typically, but can hit 3000 RPM or so under WOT. Smoking of course, with the exhaust well under water and making eight or more knots at that point. I’ve cruised all through the Gulf, up the East Coast to Rhode Island and out to the Bahamas with this prop and am pleased with it. Took a bit to get used to having to hit it hard in reverse to stop the boat, but it does stop pretty quickly when I roll the throttle up. Gotta’ be careful when positioning straps when hauling the boat though. The blades tend to be folded while at rest and you certainly don’t want to lift the boat by the prop blades. I ask the crew to lift very slightly while I go below and attempt to turn the prop shaft by hand, If I can’t move it, we reposition the strap by coming in from the stern a bit.

    David
    #189, Blue Moon

    in reply to: Physical access to the engine front #225824
    typhoontye
    Participant

    It’s helpful for me sometimes to remove the pegboard in the wet locker, located to the starboard of the companionway ladder (by the nav station). Really opens up access to the right side of the engine as well as forward.

    David
    #189, Blue Moon

    in reply to: Cap rail removal #225776
    typhoontye
    Participant

    Thanks John. Looks like a nice solution for those guys. Our textured material gets mildew (not really mold). I hit it with bleach now and then and seems to control it. It’s never wet to the touch though. And where the material is used on the ceiling the mildew is just as bad or worse…even under a balsa sandwich deck. Keeping air moving in the boat helps a lot. I think the material in the boat now seems conducive to the mildew. It’s ‘rough’, and I think that gives some opportunity for mildew spores to take hold. When I remove it though, I’ll not reinstall anything for a while and monitor for moisture. Could be an insulating layer would help…

    David

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 225 total)