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Update: We removed the jib traveler track. Not a real problem, but what you might expect. A lot of bending and twisting to get to the fasteners under deck. I bit surprised, a lot of the nuts weren’t particularly snug. But they were all there.
We also removed the badly damaged wood rub strake (was this original equipment? I couldn’t really tell. Perhaps an option). This job was more difficult as at least half the SS machine screws were badly mangled. Wound up breaking a lot of these off with vise grips. Of course now I have even more holes (from the fasteners) in the hull. Taped off for now. And getting to the nuts on the inside of the hull entailed removing a lot of the cosmetic vinyl sheet from the side of the hull. The wife doesn’t like this stuff, so we may wind up trying an alternative covering. It didn’t fare too well anyway in the removal process. If anyone has any ideas on this I’m all ears. I don’t want to furr out for wood because it would eat into our space…
And ultimately decided not to remove the cap strip and gunwale piece. For now. No need to expose more holes to the rain (Zeta is coming). And since I have insurance money and logistics are difficult for us, I’ll probably get this trim work done for me while the boat is in the yard. Likely to be there for a bit.
Thanks to all for the information provided on the cap rail!
David
Blue MoonThanks for the replies guys. Quite encouraging. I also heard from Paul Fucetola off of Isaias (with pictures) via e-mail. Paul’s actually looked worse than mine. His experience was similar to Bryans’. So we’re off to Pensacola tomorrow to initiate the removal of the damaged piece(s). I’ll take the heat gun but from the sound of it I won’t need it…
Thanks again!
Bryan, it would certainly be interesting to look at Regina’s projects in more detail… Appreciate your efforts on behalf of us all!David
Thanks for the response, Idyll Ours. Quite an interesting article for sure. Pete’s efforts with Regina Oceani humble most of the rest of us, I’m sure! Quite a vessel.
He didn’t describe how he removed the old teak, which is unfortunate for me. Perhaps it wasn’t a big enough task to bother with that detail (I’m hoping!). I’ll let ya’ll know how the project goes…
David
Thanks for the input on PYI, Unabated. Sounds pretty unequivocal. I may perform this mod on down the road.
David
I changed my engine mounts (isolators) with parts sourced from Bushings Inc. I bought the ones specified for the W55/4-154 (Perkins). Improved matters but still bothersome. I spoke with Bushings Inc (they were responsive and nice) and it was suggested I try the bushings for the 4-108. Softer rubber but reportedly dimensionally the same. I never did it, but might make a difference.
Interesting comment from Unabated on the damper plate. I have changed mine (due to disintegration) but I don’t think that helped the vibration issues. Perhaps the PYI unit would have done a better job. Interested in hearing from others who have experience in this area…
Blue Moon damaged by Sally in Pensacola. An ill-prepared vessel to windward, with roller furling sails set, blew down on our vessel and proceeded to grind away. Thankfully this is all fixable and we look forward to returning our vessel to it’s previous glory.
David
Blue Moon, #189Hello Dan,
You may want to move this post to the General Discussion area, vice the Announcement area.If your experience is like mine, the leak you are experiencing may be at the top of the tank, where the vent fitting is located. I cut a hole in the sole (just above the vent fitting, and under the main cabin table) and built a flange to fit the piece I cut out…so I could have future access to the area. I resealed the vent fitting and that resolved my problem.
I ultimately wanted more holding tank capacity than the 20 gallons afforded by the existing tank. I also needed to fix/rebuild the cabin sole, including jacking it up/reinforcing where it had sagged. So wound up cutting the floor out and designing a custom holding tank with flared sides, increasing our capacity to 37 gallons. Has worked well for us for several years and hopefully will for the foreseeable future. Obviously this sort of tank cannot be removed unless the cabin sole is removed, so this was a roll of the dice. Has paid off so far. The tank was made to my specifications of plastic by Miller Plastics.
David
Blue Moon
#189We use the West Marine Pro product. Goes on nicely. We buy 3 gallons and apply 2 coats, then use what’s left over for extra around the waterline.
David
Blue Moon, #189I installed the W58 with another W58. But configured differently. For instance, the extruded exhaust manifold exhausts at the front of the engine instead of the rear.
Cost of the motor? I shot a Fiji 47 hull with Awlcraft. Came out nice. Installation was performed by myself… Only cost was aggravation
David
I had consistent problems with overheating of my 58, no matter what I did. One issue to look for is the plumbing for the HW heater. Some of these installs have the HW heater in series with the rest of the fresh water cooling system. This limits the water available to cool the motor because the HW heater constricts the flow, in my opinion. I re-plumbed mine to work in parallel, vice series. Unfortunately the problem persisted.
Ultimately, I decided to change out the engine due to oil leaks, and the fact my friend offered me a rebuilt W58 he had hanging around his shop for the past 2 years. Turned out to not be such a bargain, but that’s another story. But anyway, the ‘new’ motor was configured differently and the raw water pump wouldn’t fit the engine bed without some mod. In this case, I installed a smaller pulley (the driven pulley) on the raw water pump than the one that came originally with the W58. Did the math and determined that I wasn’t overspeeding the pump, though in fact I think I was. More on that later. But the long and short of it is that the pump spun faster than it did with the original pulley, and this motor never had any overheating problems since my install. I’ve run this motor off and on, mostly on, from the panhandle of Florida, through the keys, and up the intracoastal to Rhode Island and Massachusetts, and back. No problems, even in very warm waters.
About the impeller. Seemed I was going through them a bit too rapidly. I’d heard about the Globe impellers, blue in color, that are supposed to be exceptionally robust. So I purchased one and installed while transiting Miami, enroute North to New England. No problems since that install, even with hundreds of hours of motoring.
So, if you are having overheat problems with this motor, and assuming the head gasket, etc, is healthy, a smaller drive pulley on the raw water pump may help. And I recommend the Globe impeller to anyone.
David
Blue Moon, #189Well yeah. Sort of. These are both mushroom style through hulls, with flats that should match the deck. They are both advertised as 3.0″ OD on the part that shows on deck (the mushroom), and I measured my existing scupper at 3.040″. So the same. But in reality, the Forespar (Marelon) measures 2.92″. Or so. So I’ll have a bit of the original deck showing around the circumference, but not much. I didn’t measure the Perko (plastic) but it appears closer to the 3.0″. And it more closely resembles the profile of the mushroom shape on the original scupper. But I’m going with the Forespar due to the superior material and belief it will hold up in the sun better.
David
Sorta’ what I figured. Costs a lot more for the Marlon, but guess there’s a reason for that.
Blowing and raining here in Ft Walton, FL. Had a 37 knot gust and the water has come up a couple of feet. Otherwise just a blustery day. Blue Moon is safe in Pensacola in a nice hurricane hole for the next couple of months…
David
I had my custom holding tank, 35 gallons, made by Miller Plastics in Burgettstown, PA. They did a great job and the dimensions (which were critical) came out exactly on the money. Very pleased with the product and the support I received. The tanks were made of Copoly Polypropylene material. I can recommend this company
David
Blue Moon, #189Good tips Alan. Indeed I should have mentioned the voltage drop issue. Voltage drop on the start circuit during start is significant. At least when the problem occurs. Appears the combiner isolator ‘isolates’ at about 12.9V. So beginning with 12.9V I hit the starter and volts drop well below 10. Around 9. I know, not good. But then later, when Volts on the house come up a bit; say to 13.1, and the combiner starts letting power flow to the start circuit, the start circuit works fine. Volts drop to about 10 during the cranking and the motor fires right up. I’m told by my starter rebuilder that 10 is ok.
And I did polish all contacts, including the starter face where it contacts the ‘bell housing’ and the face of the bell housing. The bolt itself looks good, and I polished both the washer and the terminal end itself until it shone. I use sandpaper. And of course the same ground circuit works just fine when the house battery circuit is paralleled to the start circuit.
So the perplexion continues. I’m going to manually isolate the start circuit on my next overnight trip, in a couple of days and see what happens. My current thought is, assuming the battery is ok, and the starter is ok, and connections of wiring is ok, then it must be the combiner waiting too long to isolate the start battery from the house.
David
