[typhoontye]

I failed to address Rob’s question regarding the wire size from the starting battery. Can’t tell you the wire gauge number Rob, but it’s standard size for ‘battery to starter’. Same size as the wire that runs from the house bank to the starter (used when ‘paralleled’), and the run for the starter battery circuit is shorter. Runs from the aft compartment under the aft bunk, out the aft bulkhead and into the engine bay area. Maybe 4 foot run, many be 5.

David

[typhoontye]

Thanks for the responses guys. Interesting. I too think that 1000MCA should be sufficient. But apparently Rick’s experience and that of my PO was otherwise. Would be interested in hearing from others on starting battery capacity.

David

[typhoontye]

Hello Paul,

I’m sure some of our members have fabricated a new mast step and have good info. I too may eventually need to replace mine. But in the meantime: I cleaned/chipped off as much of the ‘rust’ that I could. Then coated with POR-15 or Rust Lok, by Petitt. Similar products. Don’t know if you’ve used them before but they are a unique product, unlike ‘rust conversion’ products. Actually sucks the moisture out of the existing rust and forms an extremely hard coating on the exterior that is incredibly impervious to anything except sunshine. Must be top coated if used outdoors. Wear gloves if you use this product. The stuff will not come of your skin until your outer epidermis actually molts.

The second thing I did was take steps to keep salt water from standing in the mast step area. Drilled two weep holes in the raised flange that surrounds that area, but that didn’t help much. Maybe needed larger holes. But I was surprised how well my next step worked: I took a strip of lamp wicking, about 1 and half or two inches wide; secured it at one end in the normally wet area where the mast step sits, and draped the other end into the downstream bilge. Didn’t expect much, but was quite surprised how well it works. When I inspect this area now, it is almost always dry.

David
Blue Moon, #189

[typhoontye]

Thanks for the response, Todd. And I wish you were right! The 1.5 inch caps from marinedepotdirect are too small. By a pretty good margin. Yes, the pipe used on my boat is 1.5 inch. But these plastic caps don’t fit the housing. Nor do the more expensive SS caps from West Marine. The 1.5″ is too small. The 2″ is too large. What the heck? Pretty weird…

David

[typhoontye]

Packing material replacement went well. The 1/4″ packing was the correct size. Looking forward to a drier bilge…

David

[typhoontye]

I believe it is not rubber, but carbon? Been a while since I looked at this, but was scared away due to the reported fragility of the carbon bushing. My pump was otherwise in poor shape so I sprung for another unit.

David

[typhoontye]

I am also thinking about redoing our cabin cushions. I’m not unhappy with the layout for us but the fabric is faded and I have never really liked it. Any suggestions on good quality fabric? I’m very familiar with the Sunbrella line but wondered if there was any experience with other fabrics.
Our 2 settees are pullman berths so we can have a wider spot to sleep than just the cushions. So far only our kids have slept in them and they do wilderness camping so not a problem with piling the end cushions up in front of the hanging locker. Our cushions attach with the same velcro arrangement and they work well even in rough seas.
If you really want a bunkbed arrangement, check out Rockler for lowering/raising hardware. I built a Murphy bed years ago for the house and they had quite a bit. Maybe something along the line of what they use to raise beds in RVs or modern boats.
Happy New Year
Pat Tye
Blue Moon #189

[typhoontye]

May want to look at a replacement sender from another source. What kind of gauge is on the vessel? The maker of the gauge should supply the sender as well. My gauges are from Sierra, available from West Marine. Look just like the originals (I think). Brushed metal look bezels, white numbers on black faces. In any case, you can buy the sender from them as well, as I did for my W58. I would buy a new gauge and sender.

David
Blue Moon

[typhoontye]

Thanks for the response. We are using USA2Me, out of Houston. Working well for us and cost amortizes out to about a buck and a half a day.

David
Blue Moon, #189

[typhoontye]

Rodd, I might have an interest in the storm jib if you buy the lot. Looking for a hank on, and might still be interested if it isn’t.

David
Blue Moon

[typhoontye]

There is no oil temperature sensor on the W58. There is an oil pressure transmitter and a low oil pressure transmitter (for the warning horn/bell). Both are located on the left side of the engine (starboard side of the boat). The water temperature sensor should be on/near your thermostat housing.

David
Blue Moon

[typhoontye]

Hello Ewan,

I have decent sails already, though the roller furling genoa (130 percent) is probably half used up. If yours was closer to new that would be of interest to me. I would definitely be interested in a good condition hank on storm jib. I currently have a nice new solent jib that works real well for us on a removable stay. I have reef points built into the solent but have never used them. A true storm jib is on my list of things to look at some day. Don’t know if you are willing to split up your collection…

David
Blue Moon

[typhoontye]

Yep, I saw that one. That set has the cork gaskets for the fore/aft. I already have those. The good news is that after some investigation I think I can use the cork. It’s an interference fit into the groove in the crankcase so I believe it will go ok. I have the side pieces already, thanks to the PO.

Appreciate the response!

David

[typhoontye]

Hello Rob. Been out cruising a while and just saw your post. I did the same thing you did…cut holes in the sole adjacent the face of the settees. Then used pipe clamps to raise the floor back into position (used the top of the settee as something to clamp to). Then added vertical lumber pieces (three per side to hold the floor in position). I cut the bottom of the vertical support pieces to approximate the contour of the floor, then set them in place in a wet bed of thickened epoxy. After that I glassed the pieces in place with biaxial cloth and epoxy resin. I’m not too concerned about hard spots. First, the load doesn’t seem to be too much. Second, the hull is pretty thick through there. Lastly, I spread the load out a bit by using multiple supports, each one pretty thick, around two inches thick I think. Also, by glassing them in, it spreads the load even more. My repair was done a year or more ago, and had the boat out to sand/paint the bottom and didn’t notice any deformity on the bottom. Though to be honest, wasn’t looking for any.

David
Blue Moon

[typhoontye]

Hello Thom,

I’ve reposted a previous post from myself you might find useful regarding mast pulpits. I ordered mine from Whitewater and am still quite pleased. Good quality, good price. And the shipping was not too bad. Here it is:

Christmas greetings all! I revisited the mast pulpit issue and elected to go with White Water Marine, located in Port Huron, Michigan. They quoted $715 for the pair, per the drawing that this site is familiar with. I elected to go with out the optional steps, but he indicated he would have done the steps for the same price if I had wanted them. He upgraded the round base plate thickness to 3/16″ as he was uncomfortable with the 1/8″ specified. He did bails on all three legs. He could not do the 5″ deep curve specified in the drawing (which he told me in advance), but I think the curve he supplied is certainly adequate, and thinking about it, I think maybe better than a deep curve.

The quality was good to excellent in my opinion, and he was pretty responsive and delivered what he said he would, when he said he would. The pulpits fit the boat well, except for the angle of the outboard leg round base plate. The plate does not match the angle of the deck (by a pretty good margin). The drawing specifies 15 degrees from horizontal, and I verified that he built it per the drawing. He was right on 15 degrees. Unfortunately, the angle to the deck is less than this, perhaps 7 or 8 degrees…don’t know yet. Regardless, a fairly simple matter to build a wedge out of starboard to compensate.

He also built a dorade guard for us for $135. Shipping was $72.60 for the lot to NW Florida.

Anyhow, thought I would pass this along. I called him and verified he would honor this pricing for a reasonable amount of time if anyone in the group is interested.

David
Blue Moon, #189

PS: Don’t forget to ask for backing plates if you do this! I forgot, and will now have to improvise.

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