[unabated]

If it’s anything like a W58 – suck it out of the dip
stick tube….
Run the engine, get it warm and there ya go!
I have one of the blue can things that you can pump up
to a pretty strong vacumm. Works the best of all the
devices I have wasted my money on in the past 30 years
to suck oil out of a marine engine.
alan

— adam silverstein <> wrote:

Where do we pump the oil out on a W60?

-Adam Silverstein
(via iPhone)

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[unabated]

Rochester New York
On the sunny shores of Lake Ontario – which is
currently buried under 1 foot of snow.
Why?
alan
— Aaron Lynch <> wrote:

Alan, Where are you located?

On 3/28/08 3:11 AM, alan P wrote :

John, I was reading the thread in the SSCA about
spinnaker poles that has been going on the last

few

weeks. I thought maybe I could get away with a
spinaker pole instead of a whisker pole for

several of

the reasons both Jack and Evans had expressed.
I can only afford one device and I thought I could
make a non-expanding pole on my own for a about

1/2

the price. A little compromise as to the length I
suppose won’t hurt.
alan

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[unabated]

With the weight and size of the 4D’s I dont’ know why
anyone wants to deal with em.
“am assuming the diesel genset in the port locker
keeps thing level”
I wish I had one…..
I am beginning to like Tors’ idea about putting the
batteries under the aft berth.
The whole balance thing plus, I would be able to fit a
genset IN the stb locker someday.

I would add venting on the list of high priorites to
putting the batteries in that enclosed space.

— Paul Lefebvre <> wrote:

Quote:

Alan:

Thanks for the correction on the Trojan capacities.
Getting 240 AH batteries
into the same space as the 165 Ah 4D’s is a pretty
good deal.

Concerning additional battery placement, my PO added
shelves aft but
slightly elevated
of the original two battery boxes. I have one
additional 4D on the lower
shelf now, with room for another on the upper shelf.
Of course, neither of
these are proper battery boxes, just one more thing
on the list of stuff to
fix.

I am assuming the diesel genset in the port locker
keeps thing level.

Paul

Quote:

<.. snip>

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[unabated]

There is an Interstate wholesaler who will sell to me directly also….

The Trojan guy is in Buffalo which is about 100 miles away…. he dropped off the batteries at a store he was at in Rochester on his way downstate.

Point is – most of these distributors are willing to work with ya…..

a

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[unabated]

The 20 Hour rating on the T105 is 225
and on the T125 it’s 240.
It’s not as most people assume, 105 or 125 – They
should rename the batteries to T225 or T240…
a

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[unabated]

There are a number of articles out there about batteries and such. For starters, 265AH a day to me is pretty darn high. I have refrigeration and the stereo going all day and all the rest of the junk powered up we think we need and I get a little antsy if I get even close to 150A. So, that being said and without going into a really long and involved explanation, the short story is:

Buy 6V golf cart batteries and NOT from WM. Find a Trojan dealer. Their all over. Look at the T105 or T125. I use the T125 – more AH’s and only a 1/2″ taller – almost the same price. I think I paid about 75 dollars each. SO, each 2 batteries (150$) would give you about 225 AH # 12 volts or there abouts. If your Stb sail locker is like mine, you can easily fit in 4 of those, giving you about 450AH worth of storage.

I tend to think of batteries as things that only last 4-5 years anyhow, depending on how badly you abuse them. There is a life to them depending on how many times you discharge them (use them) and how deeply you discharge them before charging (to around 50%). Do you have N Calders book’s? He does a good job expalining all of this.

It’s not rocket science

alan

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[unabated]

Yikes thats cold…..It was that cold this weekend
inside the boat …..Frosty to say the least….
Thanks for taking the time to check for me….
alan

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[unabated]

The deck drain hose is 1-1/2 right? Before I order
25 feet of this stuff….
alan

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[unabated]

Mine is back there also. I was looking at it this
weekend. I am thinking upscrewing the cabinets maybe
the fastest way to do the best job.
a
— wrote:

Quote:

It depends on your layout. In my boat, access to
the deck drain is in the far aft corner of a locker
over the aft bunk. It is very difficult to reach.

—
Rich Carter

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Original message

---

<.. snip>

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[unabated]

Thanks Chuck,
2 years ago I replaced/rebuilt most of the thru-hull
fittings in the same manner as you. The last 4 I need
to do are the scupper drains..
thanks
alan
— Chuck Ruble <> wrote:

Alan, I used the white flex tubing also, not the
odor resistant stuff as
there isn’t a need and it’s about $10 a foot…
If you have not done it already when you replace the
hose to the above the
waterline drains you should consider replacing the
thru hull fittings. Over
the years the originals become brittle from the UV
and if struck could
break. Additionally there is no backing behind
them.
I made up some donuts out of 1/4″ plywood and gave
them a couple coats of
epoxy. They seat between the hull and the thru hull
nut spreading out the
load. If I did it again I would have contoured the
rings more to the hull
shape before applying the epoxy.

Lastly, a propane torch or a heat gun used to gently
warm the hose ends
makes the hose much easier to get onto a barb
fitting.

Chuck

On 3/24/08, alan P <> wrote:

I need to replace some of the hose for the deck
drains.

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[unabated]

Did you have a problem geting that hose on? Replace
the deck fiting also?
I was looking at the series 148 hose from Trident….
Looks to be a 3 1/2 bucks a foot at WasteMarine which
means I can probably get it at 1/2 that price
elsewhere.

— Robert Fine <> wrote:

I have the white hose that is also used for the
head. It’s easy to keep
clean and it looks good in the lockers.

Bob

On Mon, Mar 24, 2008 at 6:55 AM, alan P
<> wrote:

I need to replace some of the hose for the deck
drains.
Specificly the one that goes right through the

middle

of the galley storage area and the one on the

opposite

side in the head.
What do you all think is a good hose. I am trying

to

stay away from that really heavy black hose.
alan

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[unabated]

Mine attaches to the Boom and then there are two
padeyes, on one either side of the coach roof for the
other end of the vang to attach to. More like a
preventer… but that’s the way it came.
I’d like to route it down the port side, alongside the
main sheet. I’ll make another hole through under the
traveler and lead it to the mainsheet winch with a
line stopper….. Until I look at it and decide that
it can’t be done…. lol
alan
— Robert Fine <> wrote:

Hi Alan,

There’s an eye on the mast just above the boot and
an eye on the boom – I
can measure how far out if you’d like. There’s an
eye on the deck mounted
specifically to ensure the turning block falls into
the space left by the
open hatch so you can’t close it. I will change
that.

Bob

On Thu, Mar 13, 2008 at 6:26 AM, alan P
<> wrote:

Bob, Where does your vang attach to the boom and

where

does it attach to the Mast/Deck.
alan

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[unabated]

Bob,
Do you have your vang line running to the cockpit?
What type of vang are you using? Attachment points?
Anyone else care to chime in here?
alan

[unabated]

I drain the hot water tank, after relieving any
pressure in the system. I disconnect the in and out
hoses to the tank and install a setup I made with
unions to the reconnect the pressure system without
the hot water heater connected. Which BTW is a great
to have in case your heater craps out while your away
from the dock, you can always install this thing and
be able to use the preussre system.

I then drain each of the tanks till almost dry, I then
remove the hose at the source side of the galley pump
and attach a dry vac to it,sucking out any remaining
fluid.
This way the system is dry, no pink fluid is left and
if there is any liquid left, it wont freeze.
Although I hear some people use vodka cause it’s
cheaper than the pink stuff.

— Robert Fine <> wrote:

Ah Rich,

I have a better way to winterize. And it doesn’t
involve that awful tasting
anti-freeze that only gets rinsed out at the end of
the season.

I install a shore water inlet. At a dock, I use a
hose and hey! presto
fresh water without using the tank and pump.

But when winterization comes along, baby, that’s
where it shines! I connect
a fitting made up to match an air compressor with
the hose fitting. One by
one, from the farthest to the nearest I open up the
faucet, cold first, hot
last, and run it until no more water blows out.

The hot water heater is drained, the cold water is
dry (as is the hot
water), and if there are a few drops of water in the
system, so what? As
long as there’s expansion space it’s all good.

I also drain the tanks to the bilge using a siphon
on a fitting before the
pressure pump.

This all takes about an hour. The nice thing is
that there’s no
polyproplyene glycol in the system (ever had a
colonoscopy? The stuff they
make you drink a gallon of? That pink stuff without
the pink. You still
want it in your water system?)

Bob

On Tue, Mar 11, 2008 at 3:54 PM,
<> wrote:

Bob
I would have mixed feelings about using PVC or

copper for pressure water

lines in the boat. I’ve experienced problems with

the end fittings used

with plastic tubing. Most of these problems have

been addressed by

replacing the cheap plastic fittings with copper

compression fittings and

nylon compression rings. I don’t believe the

nylon rings are available

anymore, but copper compression rings are. Too

bad, since the nylon

compression rings allowed you to disassemble the

fitting and reuse the

parts. I’ve not had very good results reusing

fittings with copper

compression rings.

I’ve still had issues with the hot water line from

the water heater.

Water in the water tank gets hotter than what you

would normally find in a

domestic water system. I’ve had issues with the

water line breaking. I

lost count of how many times I dumped a water tank

into the bilge last year.

I eventually replaced the hose from the water

heater to the manifold with

nylon reinforced tubing.

Friends of mine built a cabin in the woods in

central New Hampshire a few

years ago. When the plumbed the camp, they

pitched the water lines and

installed drains at the low points so as to make

winterizing easy for them.

I suppose you could do this with the pressure

water system on your boat,

but snaking water pipe through cabinets and bilge

doesn’t lend itself to

pitching the pipes as you might wish. We have a

camp in NY, but our pipes

weren’t put in this way. Its a pain to blow them

out when winterizing.

Sometimes we don’t get all the water out of one

spot or anther and the pipe

splits open when the water freezes. I think you

would find it difficult to

reliably blow the pipes out.

On the other hand, winterizing is pretty easy with

the plastic tubing.

All I have to do is drain the water heater, open

the faucets, remove the

water filter and toss a gallon of potable

anti-freeze in the water tanks.

If it were hard plastic or copper, I’d have to

blow out the lines. This

would be problematic.

Folks who keep their boats in slips might have a

direct connection to a

water supply. If I used this kind of connection,

I’d want a fresh water

system that was pretty reliable. I’d hate to come

back to the boat to find

that one of the water lines had broken and allowed

the bilge to flood with

city water. One would think that a shutoff of

some kind would prevent this

kind of problem, but I know I’d eventually forget

to turn the water off. I

think the right solution is to use a better

quality plastic tubing than

Pearson used. Someone must make something like

this. West Marine sells

something with the Whale brand on it, but it’s

very expensive. If anyone

has a suggested supplier for quality tubing at a

reasonable price, please

let us know.

—
Rich Carter
—
Rich Carter

---

Original message

---

From: “Robert Fine” <>

I wonder, what do you all think of re-doing the

potable water with

copper

piping like a house? Assuming of course, fixed

connections to tanks

were

via small sections of hose?

Bob

On Tue, Mar 11, 2008 at 9:48 AM, alan P

<> wrote:

A few yrs ago had a Catalina 30 in the yard

that had a

small leak in his winter cover. Water had

leaked in

and when it froze, busted a scupper hose. In

the

spring when it rained, more water had leaked

into the

boat.
The travel lift operator needed to move the

boat to

launch someone else. When he lifted the boat

up, all

the water shifted, causing the boat to tip in

the

slings. The Catalina ended bow up, sitting on

the

rudder. Not a pretty site.
a
— Silver Heels <> wrote:

I did not mean to say unexpected stuff can’t

happen,

like something clogging up Rich’s cockpit

drain

pipe. Remind me to
tell you some time about wintering my last

boat in

Greece, where a cat got in through a

sheltered

cockpit porthole I’d
left open for ventilation and had a litter

of

kittens on my bunk. And that was only the

beginning

of the mess!

Tor

---

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http://www.SilverHeels.us

---

---

Original Message

---

From: alan P [mailto:]
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 7:03 AM
To: Mailing List
Subject: RE: PVC plumbing and

cockpit

=== message truncated ===

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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[unabated]

A few yrs ago had a Catalina 30 in the yard that had a
small leak in his winter cover. Water had leaked in
and when it froze, busted a scupper hose. In the
spring when it rained, more water had leaked into the
boat.
The travel lift operator needed to move the boat to
launch someone else. When he lifted the boat up, all
the water shifted, causing the boat to tip in the
slings. The Catalina ended bow up, sitting on the
rudder. Not a pretty site.
a

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