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Rich, I guess I am still confused. Under the aft berth
– like under the mattress, in the storage area?
or behind the aft berth?
I am trying to envision the hot water heater UNDER the
after aft berth…. unless your 424 aint like mine –
highly possible….
Still got your writeup?alan
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Tor is looking for a the on-demand unit.
I am just looking for a suitable replacement for the
stand unit and whether anyone has put in a bigger unit
or something other than the Raritan unit.
alanPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rich, when you say “under the aft bunk”, your not
talking about the forward end if the port sail locker
are you?
alan
— wrote:Quote:Alan
I replaced mine last year with a 11gal unit. It fit
in the same space under the aft bunk. I sent out
notes and photos of the installation if you missed
them. Installation wasn’t straightforward.—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I usually use a 5/16 transfer punch to make sure I hit
the center of the hole.
Ever hear of power tapping?
Do you think Tuf-Gel is better than Lanacote. I have
both?
Thanks for the suggestions.
alan— Pete Dubler <> wrote:
Three drills: #1 for the hole, #2 for the tap, and
#3 for the screw
driver.
Use a bit of tap-magic on the tap and you will have
a much more
delightful time at it.
Also, use Tuf-Gel in every hole.http://www.sailorssolutions.com/index.asp?page=ProductDetails&Item=TG01
Pete
wrote:
Alan I dont have track mounted yet but it is alot
easier drilling and tapping with the mast down.
Also start at either one end and work to the other
end, do not start at either end and work toward the
middle. DavidQuote:<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I’ve heard of that, but I am thinking it would be
firmly attached to the mast, why would high winds
change that… not like it’s going to come off. I
could not imagine taking that 18′ length of pipe off
the mast while the deck is a heaving and a pitchen
I could be wrong though
alan
— Paul Lefebvre <> wrote:“I am assuming that the pole is then
stored on deck.”Yes, since it is a collapsing pole, it is stored on
the stanchions. I assume
you are going to store the outboard end on the deck
and the inboard at the
top of the track?? You may also want to add for
offshore in a blow, deck
storage as well.Paul
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That was my thought. Maybe not 18’…. haven’t decided
on the length yet. I just thought since my mast was
down, it would be easier to put in the 100 or so
screws on the ground rather than from a bosuns chair.— Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:Alan,Are you planning to get a fixed pole around 18′
long, or a telescoping pole?Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thanks Paul, I am assuming that the pole is then
stored on deck.
alan
— Paul Lefebvre <> wrote:Alan:
The track on my mast for the whisker pole is only 2
ft long and it starts 2″
below the mainsail track.Since I haven’t sailed the boat yet, I can’t give
any input if this is the
right position or not.Paul
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No, this guy goes buy the name of Marinesurplus77 or
CapatinsSurplus.
He advertises 5.00 for shipping shipping on his 1st
page. Then when you purshase the item, he charges 1.00
per extra item. SO, in my case, it was 5.00 PLUS a
dollar per foot of hose. Each foot of the same hose
was another item.
I thought 29.00 for shipping 25 feet of hose was a
little outragous.
alan
— Linus Sumocean <> wrote:Alan
It’s this guy and the good thing is that I can
actually reach out and touch
him since he’s local.Quote:Linus
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Is there a brand name to look for other than rope
caulk.
— Silver Heels <> wrote:Quote:I don’t know yet first hand, Alan, but I expect
it’ll last as long as most other goops, and it
certainly is a lot easier
to deal with. The handful of people I’ve talked to
who have been using Rope Caulk on boats tell me,
based on their own
experience, that it has lasted “for years.” The boat
repair shop guy talked about fittings he’d installed
on customers’
boats “years ago,” which he later removed and found
the caulk to be in perfect shape, like the day he’d
put it on. I’ve
had some things bedded with it aboard Silver Heels –
a porthole and various deck fittings – baking in the
Florida sun
for a year now and they’re still watertight. If you
think about it, only the outermost edge of the putty
is in the sun
anyway, the rest being in between the fitting and
the fiberglass to which its mounted, so I doubt
whether UV is going to
be a big factor in its longevity.Hey, try it out somewhere non-critical, give it a
few years, and see how it does. It’ll cost you all
of two bucks to
find out for yourself.Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Not to be nay sayer,’cause I use alot of non-marine
soultions…… what about UV protection or breakdown
from?alan
— Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:John,I’ll let you in on a really cool secret if you
promise not to tell anyone. This past year I
discovered a most amazing
bedding substance. Learned of it from a first-rate
boat repair guy who owns a shop here in my boat
yard. He’s been using
it for years and swears by it. I’ve since met a few
veteran cruisers who know about it and they rave
about it, too. It’s
extremely easy to handle, seems to have a limitless
shelf life, never makes a mess, stays where you put
it, can be
finger-shaped to fill any void, seals deck fittings
100% water tight first time every time, never dries
out or hardens,
never adheres, lasts for years – so far no one I
know has reached it’s lifespan – and costs pennies.
Needless to say,
West Marine doesn’t sell it, although they may some
day under some “marine” label for 5-times the going
price. Have I
peaked your interest?It’s “Rope Caulk Westherstrip,” available from Ace
and most other hardware stores. It comes in a long
roll of sliced
strips (photo attached) and is incredibly easy to
use. I’ve been bedding everything from deck fittings
to portlights
with it when I don’t want adhesion, but do require
perfect water-tightness. Just did the fuel gauge
viewing port in my
cockpit sole. I don’t use it below the waterline
just because I don’t “experiment” with my boat’s
bottom, but everywhere
else on the boat it has proven to be the greatest
thing since sliced bread. Once you start using it
yourself, you’ll
see. Next time I re-bed my chain plate deck plates,
I’ll do it with Rope Caulk.One thing to keep in mind. It’s best to tighten down
on whatever fitting you’re bedding gradually, to
give the caulking
time to find its shape, especially in cooler weather
where the caulk is a bit stiff at first. Hand
tighten the fitting,
then come back a few times and tighten it a bit more
every 10 or 20 minutes until it’s as tight as you
want it, rather
than forcing it down hard the first time around.
Whatever oozes out can be trimmed with a putty knife
and used somewhere
else.Just kidding about it being a secret. Once you
“discover” this stuff for yourself, you’ll want to
share it with everyone
you know.Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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The Trojan 6v batteries are 10 3/8 long. The 4D’s are
21 inches, so they fit in the same space. The weight
of the of the batteries are 119 lbs vs 66. However,
the 4d’s have more AH…. Life is a compromise.
The nice thing is, you can find nooks and cranny’s to
put in a few more 6v’s and wire them up, they don’t
have to be next to each other. Wire size accordingly.
alan____________________________________________________________________________________
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I do not know what the stock 4d box is. It was this
way when I got the boat.
I’ll be out there tomorrow and I’ll take some
pictures.
alan— Aaron Lynch <> wrote:
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
NO… I have 4
2 in the upper and two in the lower
I think I have pictures, but I will have to find them
alanPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
My W58 has a hose that is already connected to that
fitting.
I put a fitting on the end of the hose for the vac
pump that attaches to that fitting along with a small
1/8″ ball valve. That way I have no vac leaks and I
can bring the vac down pretty low and then open the
valve.— Robert Fine <> wrote:
The W58 and I believe the W60 have a fitting on the
bottom of the oil pan to
which you can connect a pump. If not, they are
available fairly
inexpensively.Bob
On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 2:33 PM, alan P
<> wrote:If it’s anything like a W58 – suck it out of the
dip
stick tube….
Run the engine, get it warm and there ya go!
I have one of the blue can things that you canpump up
to a pretty strong vacumm. Works the best of all
the
devices I have wasted my money on in the past 30
years
to suck oil out of a marine engine.
alan— adam silverstein <> wrote:
Where do we pump the oil out on a W60?
-Adam Silverstein
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding____________________________________________________________________________________
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OK then where are you? Dimensions? Price?
Condition?
Why are you not using it?
alan
— Aaron Lynch <> wrote:Cuz I have a spinnaker pole I want to get rid of,
but I don¹t wanna ship it
🙂On 3/28/08 10:06 AM, alan P wrote :
Rochester New York
On the sunny shores of Lake Ontario – which is
currently buried under 1 foot of snow.
Why?
alan
— Aaron Lynch <> wrote:Alan, Where are you located?
On 3/28/08 3:11 AM, alan P wrote :
John, I was reading the thread in the SSCA
about
spinnaker poles that has been going on the
last
few
weeks. I thought maybe I could get away with
a
spinaker pole instead of a whisker pole for
several of
the reasons both Jack and Evans had
expressed.
I can only afford one device and I thought I
could
make a non-expanding pole on my own for a
about
1/2
the price. A little compromise as to the
length I
suppose won’t hurt.
alan______________________________________________________________________________
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