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You didn’t say what you were going to do with it. Sail the bay, cross an ocean, weekends at the dock?Before you can consider the weight and accessories.AlanWhy do I not receive a copy of my own email. How do I know it was received by the server and resent?Alan140UnabatedAlan phillipsKetchW58Sodus Point, N. Y.Sailblogs/unabatedPurchased in 2003Added Solent stay
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Before I bought my 424, I owned a Catalina 30 Catalina. in their infinite wisdom they put the rudderpost through a fiberglass bushing in the lazaret which wore out quite quickly. Walk around any marina and look at the Catalina 30s on the hard, grab the rudder rock it back and forth and it has a lot of play for and aft which means that the top bushing is worn. their solution was to mix up a batch of west system epoxy with a graphite additive and squirt it around the rudder post and into the fiberglass bushing so it forms a bearingIt’s all listed in quite a bit of detail in the west system handbook on how to do that.but I was thinking about using the same process along with the epoxy and graphite to form a bearing right in the beam surrounding the rudderpost for permanent fix.Alan#140Unabatedmake sure you make the prop spin before they lift it out of the water!!
“”Slings on the 424 must clear the prop and strut. For me, thatââ¬â¢s right at the primary winches. The yard snugs up the straps then I go below and spin the prop shaft to make sure itââ¬â¢s clear of the straps before they lift. The straps are positioned as far apart as possible with our 50-ton travel lift.””
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Two reasons actually. I felt around down there and decided there was no way I was getting them nuts off. There are some differences in how the engine beds were laid so your maybe be different.Secondly and probably more important was an oil leak from the pan gasket. I got tired of throwing absorbent pads under there. So when I got the engine out to do the strut I replace the pan gasket.As it turns out when I got back from the Bahamas, the fuel tank started leaking and so the engine had to come out anyhow a second time to do the fuel tank. At that time I had the front oil seal replaced which cleaned up the rest of the oil leaks that I had. that was the time that I found a couple of pins worn through on my steering a quadrant.So all in all, I got pretty proficient at removing that engine and putting it back in by myself. Piece a cake.AlanWhen the marina in Deltaville lifted unabated by the prop shaft, they bent the strut also. I talked to the people in Seattle. I Thought it was going to cost around 1200 bucks for a newly casted one. Ended up having a foundry in Baltimore straighten the one I had. They did a great job and for only a few hundred bucks. Have many miles on the boat since then and have been plenty pleased.Too bad the engine has to come out to do that job. Although that should only take 4-5 hours getting the beast out.Plus the re-installation / alignment is a PITA. And the refairing work.AlanI can’t conceive of any anything making the engine to over rev, except the prop coming out of the water.Or a temporary loss of load on the engine.AlanThe oil is under pressure, 50psi or so. If there was a leak in the cooler, the higher pressure oil, (higher than the raw water pressure) the oil would be forced into the water loop. That oil contaminated water is injected into the exhaust at the exhaust elbow.Makes perfect sense.Alan
