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Paul, I assume you have the W60 based on your affection for the designing engineer.
I'd be reluctant to heat or do anything that could potentially weaken the mount.
There's no easy way to remove it or install but it does get easier each time. A small moving blanket laid over the engine allows me to lay across the top and work. A pair of 7/16 open ended wrenches seem to work best. I first run the bolt thru the pump base, and holding that in place slide the unit into place on the engine mounting bracket. Once you get the first nut on and snugged with your fingers the rest is relatively easy. The trick is be able to do it without looking at it (I can't focus that close).
I've taken to pulling the entire pump off each winter, removing the impeller allowing it to flex back to a normal shape. Honestly, taking the entire engine out wasn't a whole lot harder than removing that dreaded pump with the engine in place.
The pump can be miss aligned due to the size of the holes in the pump mount and the engine accessory bracket, try to get it as square with the front of the engine as possible so the belt isn't improperly loading the bearing surfaces in the pump.
Linus was kind enough to send me his old pump which I keep as a spare. I'll swap out the pumps in the event of a failure, saving the impeller replacement for later. Linus I didn't forget about you. You went with the Cummins right? I'll send you some oil and fuel fitters.
Chuck
On 4/9/08, Paul Lefebvre wrote:
I had a few extra minutes last night before supper and thought I would check the impeller on the raw water pump. Right, that job can be done in a few minutes!! First of all, I assume that early owners of these engines have long ago strung up the engineer that approved that design??
As you are all aware, getting to the bottom inside nut behind the pulley is a PIA. I was wondering what others have done to make the job easier. Weld (Braze) on a nut or perhaps tap threads directly into the flange on the side of the pump. I don't look forward to having to service that impeller over a hot engine.
Paul
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I set up a 500 GPH Rule pump with a check valve at bottom of the bilge. It runs for an additional 30 seconds after the built in float drops.
It leaves very little water in the bilge. It's connected to a 3/4 in hose and it bypasses the house battery switch but is wired to a breaker on the panel. I'm thinking a larger pump plumbed down to 3/4 would been even better.In the event the alarm goes off, higher up in the bilge is a 3000 GPH that must be manually started, I'll probably wire to it's own float switch some day.
Both pumps are plumbed to anti siphon vents and independent thru hulls.
I couldn't find any oil leaks under Sea Duty's W60, what I did find when I took the engine apart was a crush washer missing under the number 1 injector. It was weeping diesel down the front of the engine later to end up in the bilge but not really soaking into the diapers underneath the engine (I think it was going underneath the pads). The bilge is still a mucky mess even though I've scrubbed it repeatedly with simple green.
The beauty of the deep bilge is it keeps the water in one spot and makes is less likely to find its way onto any wiring, hardware or such when heeled over. The boats going to leak when you have green water coming over the boat in a heavy sea (I'm sure some of you will say they have watertight vessels). In big seas the last thing I want is water sloshing around causing other issues.
Chuck's 2 cents.
On 4/8/08, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
For weeks I have been wondering where the oil in my engine is going.
Today I decided to actually dig in and find out what’s going on, I didn;t think it was in the bilge because I never saw much of a sheen when running the bilge pump.
Today I discovered that nearly 3 gal of water remains in the bilge after the pump runs ‘dry’
Before I even tackle the mysterious leak of oil, I would really like to fix the stinky, hard to access bilge and rig up a better pump/high water alarm system.
I know at least one owner filled the bottom of the bilge with concrete, and I’m thinking of doing the same just to have a bit better access. What are the cons of doing that?
Does anyone have a system that gets rid of almost all of the water in the bilge? The submersible pumps seem to backwash a tremendous amount of water.
As to the oil leak in the w60, there is no obvious leak, the diapers underneath are spotless. Any ideas where I might have a weird oil leak?
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If you are ordering from Thornycroft you may want to consider anything else you could possibly need, glow plugs, piston rings, gaskets sets…. shipping is horrendously expensive (upwards of $50). Getting everything at once will save you bit of money.
On 4/8/08, Dennis Home < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Have you tried http://www.thornycroftengines.co.uk in England. I was able to buy a
crankshaft pulley for my 1978 Westerbeke.Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Linus, it might prove to be a bit damp if it leaks at all. It will drain under the cradle so its not like you'll be laying in it. If it produces a deluge you can just screw the nut back on it and hope for the best until it comes out of the water.
On 3/31/08, Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:ChuckThanks for thinking of me. I was planning to do just that. Do you think that it will be a problem to do while the boat is still in the water? I wouldn't think that I would get much of a leak since the stern is up so high with the engine out that the top of the rudder is just below the water.
Linus
<.. snip>
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Aaron, I will admit the first unit I bought did leak, West Marine provided me with another and it has worked fine for the last 4 years. It works on a vacuum/negative pressure so if it was leaking out the bottom it may have been comprimised to start with. I will inpsect the bottom of mine though. I cannot imagine what 5 quarts of oil would look like on the master bunk floor…. probably real shiny and more like a skating rink for a few seasons.
On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 4:58 AM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Chuck, I have the same unit, however I overpumped it once, not understanding the relief valve mechanism. Oil shot out of a hole in the bottom of the unit making a HUGE mess.
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Adam, same answer. I pull it out through the dipstick tube. I use this product and swear by it;
I use it to pull the oil out of my diesel VW as well, saves me the trouble of getting under the car and I found I pull more out with the vacuum device vs. draining it. Don't get a pump unit, the vacuum unit after a few draws with the handle will continue to fill with no interaction. A pump is a mess waiting to happen. The vacuum unit has a float that will prevent it from overfilling.
The oil must be warm, hot is even better.
Fill your new oil filter before installing it.
I cut a milk jug to fit under the filter for removal, works for both the fuel and oil filters, don't cut the handle off. It sits on the transmission.
The W60 holds around 7 quarts. I think that's the main reasons these engines show so little wear over time.
When doing my rebuild I took apart the little oil manifold that is on the electrical panel next to the forward port engine bracket. The block is connected to the engine via a 1/4 inch hose and provides a number of sensors with engine oil pressure. The block had a significant amount of old oil sludge settled in it, more like tar. The thing is no problem to remove, be careful with the sensors and the associated electrical contacts.
Here's an interesting fact, a diesel circulates 100% of its oil through the filter, most on road gasoline engines only circulate about 10-20% through the filter, the remainder bypasses the filter. Oil and clean fuel are the life blood of these old slow turners.
Chuck
On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 1:57 PM, adam silverstein < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Where do we pump the oil out on a W60?
-Adam Silverstein
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Guy's I have a suggestion on battery sources. Next time you are out and see the battery truck, the big Interstate unit painted up like a stock car. Follow him to his next stop and ask him if you can buy directly from him (his distributor). Here in Richmond, VA I found the location by chance and they do sell direct.
Chuck
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Alan, I used the white flex tubing also, not the odor resistant stuff as there isn't a need and it's about $10 a foot…
If you have not done it already when you replace the hose to the above the waterline drains you should consider replacing the thru hull fittings. Over the years the originals become brittle from the UV and if struck could break. Additionally there is no backing behind them.
I made up some donuts out of 1/4″ plywood and gave them a couple coats of epoxy. They seat between the hull and the thru hull nut spreading out the load. If I did it again I would have contoured the rings more to the hull shape before applying the epoxy.Lastly, a propane torch or a heat gun used to gently warm the hose ends makes the hose much easier to get onto a barb fitting.
Chuck
On 3/24/08, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I need to replace some of the hose for the deck
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