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Ken, Mr. Shaw created a hull design that can be blocked anywhere along the keel. The keel is designed to carry the full weight of the vessel. It has to be. Boatyards are very unforgiving places for boats.
Our boats do have a deficiency where that well can become weakened due to age, damage, being dropped, moisture intrusion etc. Out of the mold the well would support the boat. Unfortunately it has a very good chance of becoming a problem.
I dealt with a similar issue and after doing some grinding found a sawzall more effective.
If the yard is repairing it their expense you are VERY lucky. If you can work with them and fix it right you should. To do it right you need to remove the rig. You are going to have most all the load on the ballasted section of the keel. You can block under the skeg but it should be for stability, not carry a big load.
Don’t be intimidated by this repair. Glass work is pretty straight forward. Look at this post, you can see what me and my girlfriend accomplished. I now insist the boat be blocked under the well. Strong like bull…
https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=1890&highlight=cracked+keel
The well is good, keep the well. Holds lots of water in one spot (no shifting loads) rather than sloshing about the boat (like in a Beneteau) soaking everything until it gets pumped out.
If you can get that block of crap out of the keel I would. It probably trapped moisture under it which found another way out of the boat.
Chuck
The noise was reported on the orca green units in practical sailor.
They have corrected this. I use the orca green tri color with anchor. It creates no rfi that is noticeable when turned on and off while listening to the VHF radio. My ssb antenna is down so I can’t comment there.
The unit is the best made device I’ve seen.The rfi that was reported was reported by ps was negligible if you read the article. The amp savings is huge. If there is a huge concern turn off the light while using the radio.
If you have sat radio take a look at your GPS signal when you turn on the xm receiver. They throw out a huge amount of rfi. The gps signal is diminished but still works fine. Guess it’s all relative. All these great devices have trade offs. I like the fact I’ll probably never have to service the tri color in my lifetime. When you turn on the anchor and tri color at the same time you get a white flashing strobe. Yes I’m aware this is not recognized in colregs.
Chuck
Pete, I made a simple jig of the engine from 2×4’s and a length of 3/4″ plywood with a vertical surface at the tail with a mark that represented output coupler on the gear.
The jig was rested on wood blocks and shims to get it in plane with the v-drive input. With an idea now of how it would sit I trimmed the bilge gussets that were left behind after the removal of the old perimeter frame.
They were cut to create a uniform, slightly slanted surface towards the v-drive.I made mock up beds out of pine and luan. Tweaked that a few time and made a set of beds strong enough to support the weight of the engine out of FRP.
The angle where the feet set was still to shallow, the studs from the isolation mounts passed through the engine brackets about 5 degrees off square.
I made a second set with a steeper angle and some other improvements.
The studs are square in the brackets now. The depth of cutouts could be a bit deeper but it would make getting to the underside (mounting bolts) more difficult so the depth is a trade off. There’s still room for adjustment downward but I don’t think it will need it.Chuck
Rich no idea what those are there for.
Double the price of the engine and that’s a fair budget for a re-power. It will usually accommodate all the normal surprises.
I’ve yet to see another boat with the engine installed the way they did on the 424. It is far from ideal, a pain to remove and difficult to replace. There’s nothing level, plumb, flat or any common reference point to work with once you get the old tub out. Creating a true mounting surface that mimics the input angle on the v-drive and parallels the engine brackets is a tedious project.
…Raise the mast on a block of something when next I have the mast out, absolute minimum….
You’ll need to cut an equal amount off the mast.
Use G10 (Garolite), excellent compression strength.You can get rid of the mast step all together by making a new one of from Garolite with a shoe on to that profiles the interior of the mast. The mast won’t corrode and or get stuck to the step.
They corrode because everything from leaves, nesting material, small birds, salt and such get stuck down there and hold moisture between the metal mating surfaces.
Bob, thanks for the kudos. Ironically I work in a yard though I’m not a tech. They guys have been kind enough to review all my work but have left me to my own devices to get it done.
I’ve sold and supervised a number of re-powers and continue to learn on each one. On this one the lessons were invaluable and there still are a few more solutions to come up with before we run it.
While the yard may have come up with some different solutions to build the beds I went with materials that were cost effective and easy to work with. 3/8″ x 6″ FRP angle. The process I followed is right of the yard playbook. With the engine out, make the spot pretty. I also replaced the port cockpit scupper seacock, the last one to be replaced.
Bill, if you are going to re-power don’t bother with a used engine. I can say from experience you’ll wish you hadn’t afterwards. The effort expended whether having a professional do it (effort=money) or yourself is a fraction of the engine cost when you begin to measure the long term cost of installing a used engine. The engine is a 4B3 from Trans Atlantic.
There’s a number of options under 12K including a Yanmar 4JH5, Beta 60 and the Nani 50.Chuck
Rich, the package used to marinize the engine is the same Bowman heat exchanger assembly used on the Perkins 4-236. While I won’t speculate that there will be parts available down the road I do know that the Perkins 4-108, 4-154 and 4-236 are still out there in large numbers (as they are exceptional engines) and Bowman parts continue to be easily obtainable.
The 4B3 is a Komatsu industrial block that is found in many commercial applications, mostly forklifts and I would expect components from Cummins will be available for a reasonable amount of time.
Chuck
Quent, the thru-hull penetrating hardware are countersunk phillips head machine screws.
This is the theory. The seacock is mounted to a backing plate that is thru-bolted to the hull. When installed the backing plate is bonded o the hull with 5200. In short it becomes a part of the hull. Any side load will be carried to a larger area of the hull surface. The last part of the installation is threading the mushroom up into the fixed seacock. The mushroom threads are sealed with 5200 and its snugged into place. It does not, nor is intended to secure the seacock in place.
Per ABYC it should withstand 500 lbs of side load for 30 seconds.
http://www.proboat.com/attention-to-detail-april-1-2010.html
Chuck
Rodd, if there’s no screw head on the exterior of the boat then it must be coming up from the underside of the backing plate. I can only assume its holding the backing plate to the seacock. A backing plate attached only to the seacock isn’t doing much so if its loose…
I replaced all my seacocks. I spun two with little effort. When I removed them the hole for the mushroom was oversized. Only a thin portion of the mushroom lip was securing the assembly to the hull. Any major side load to the seacock (a loose battery or a case of beer) could have pulled the mushroom through the hull as in some places its rather thin.
I set the replacements up as in diagram one. Backing plates are 3/8″ frp shaped to match the hull interior. Through bolt hardware is silicone bronze.
Chuck
Rodd, this link shows the proper installation of a seacock. Example 1 is ideal.
http://www.groco.net/SVC-MAN-07/Sec4/PDF/IBV-FBV-TB.pdfChuck
One of these turned up at the shop. I’m thinking of plumbing it to the horizontal temp sensor on the thermostat housing with a short length of flexible hose. Mounted on a bulkhead it would be the highest spot in the system.
http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=663
Something to check out on your cooling system. The hole in fill port on the cooling system that leads to the overflow tank hose gets clogged quite easily. You can stick a paper clip in there to clear it.
Chuck
Rodd, all this needs to be done in the water. Pointless doing it on the hard. The boat has a thin hull and changes shape quite a bit when sitting on the keel.
Chuck
Charlie, good job with the high pressure pump. I’m surprised at how many of these we send out for reconditioning have mechanical issues the owners were not aware of. Mines working but I may send it off this spring while replacing the engine mounts.
When it goes back on you’ll want to follow the instructions in the shop manual to get the injector timing set correctly.
If the chain cover plate isn’t off you can set it by ear (or how well it doesn’t start) but I’d bet its still important to take the slack out of the timing chain before you install it.
Don’t try to wedge something behind the governor housing to get it to twist to adjust it.
Chuck
Rodd, the Walter instructions are very helpful and should be followed.
You align the V-drive to the output shaft with no input shaft in place. This isn’t as easy as it would appear as the flange arrangement on each side of the v-drive sags when you loosen it to allow for adjustment. I spent 4-5 hours messing with it and still think I could have gotten the tolerances tighter. I think I’m within about three thousands of an inch variance from one side to another but access in there is so tough it’s really hard to tell.
When that is set you install the input shaft and measure the distance between the mating flange (usually just forward of the shaft brake) and the bores on the universal joint. There should be no more than an 1/8th of an inch difference between all 4. This is adjusted by moving the engine on its mounts.
It’s a royal pain to set up. If you can get somebody to do it for 2-3 hours labor it’s well worth it.
If you don’t have a copy of the Walter instructions Pete has them at his website
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Manuals
Chuck
