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W58 for W60?
On Sat, Jun 7, 2008 at 10:44 AM, Bill Emberley < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I have had random engine failures when idling for long
period of time on my old Westerbeke. After a bleeding
session the engine runs fine. I am considering
installing an in-line 12v fuel pump to increase fuel
flow.
Questions
1. Any recommendations on a Pump.
2. Do you install it before or after the Racor
filters?
3. Is it wired to activate with the ignition switch?Thanks for any ideas you old salts may have.
Bill Emberley
Running Tab
P424 #86
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Bob, are you trying to warm up the water at the dock at idle? A diesel won't generally heat up when not under load. Until it does the thermostat will remain closed.
On Fri, Jun 6, 2008 at 11:25 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi All,
My hot water heater doesn't work that well with the engine. Have any of you needed to replace the spring flow controller? The hoses are full, and so is the big tank.
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I am replacing the universal joint that resides just forward of the
transmission. I’ll have them look up the spicer part number and start
there. Thanks for the parts list, very useful.Chuck
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The attached image is the panel of the eu2000i. It appears to accept both a standard 3 prong 125 volt 20 amp male plug as well as a special cable that allows the two circuits to be combined. Thatcher, are you referring to a two prong cord that has no ground? A pair of dikes will convert a 3 prong to a 2 in an instant… 😉
On 5/29/08, Thatcher Stone < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Chuck, that's a great pic you sent, but if you enlarge and look carefully, none of them have a straight 2 prong household 120V plug. So after looking for such a thing for many years in the No 1 West Marine store in San Diego, and in number 318 here in NYC, have you Ever SEEN ONE?<.. snip>
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An adapter cord. Also useful for hooking the shore power up when in the yard over the winter.
Jeeze, thats a huge link…..
On 5/28/08, Thatcher Stone < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hi LinusHow does one connect the AC output (std two prong home) of the Honda
generator to our cockpit three prong + twist receptacle?Thatcher Stone
Wavemaker
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Does the unit have a low pressure cut off switch. IF there isn't enough pressure the system won't activate. When you hook up your guages you should get a reading of about 70 on the high and low side when the system is idle. You got that to start with?
Chuck
On 5/27/08, Indulgence < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hello,
The boat is in the water and I am almost done! After spending the weekend refinishing teak, I decided to test out my fridge…lots of hissing, bubbles in the view glass but no cold! I ran the engine at idle for 30+ minutes but still no cold.
I suspect that I have a small leak and need to recharge the unit (I had it recharged last year when I couldn't figure out how to do it). I must be missing something…I have the gauges and 134a…I connect the high and low pressure lines to the schrader valves…and nothing.
How long does it take? Do I close off the valves so it is only pulling from the can of refrigerant? Do I leave it open so it is pulling from both the low pressure line and can?
Suggestions on to recharge an engine drivent refrigeration system would be appreciated. Thanks.
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, MEPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Edson maintenance guide for OEM unit attached.
On 5/27/08, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:Thanks Paul!
That's the one!
Bob
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Walter, softer mounts might only cause the engine to travel more in its attempt to free itself from the engine bed during operation. Something I noticed when doing my rebuild of the W60 is that the engine has no harmonic dampener. Viscous dampeners are standard on most current production diesel's these days. I think the design of the engine precludes it from ever not causing the stove top to impersonate a Browning 50 cal. I cannot say if the W58 has a similar deficiency. I doubt a 'bolt on' unit is something you could find unless you worked in a diesel shop and had the ability to try different configuration of parts and could actually test the results. It would replace the base attached to the crank that the lower engine pulley is mounted on. That base if you ever take it off was drilled out to accommodate the bolts below it, and I have to imagine isn't true to start with.
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0FZX/is_4_66/ai_62371121
The offset of the hull with relation to the V-Drive I think might be some source of some vibration, and is likely the reason some of us have leaky lower seals. Alignment of that portion of the propulsion system is probably more critical than the top side. All just guesses of course.
Chuck
On 5/15/08, Seawater < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Has anyone found softer mounts that isolate the engine vibration better?
I am planning on calling Sound Down in Gloucester Ma to see if they offer any. With our jack shafts, we should not have to worry much about the effect on alignment the extra motion might have.
Walter
SV Madness
P424 Hull #1Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Aaron, remove all the top nuts on the engine mounts. Be careful not to adjust the lower nuts.
Using a 2×4 you should be able to lever the engine up enough to get some cribbing under that corner freeing the load on the existing mount. It shouldn't require that you lift it more than an inch or so. Give all the bolts on the mount a good soaking of PB blaster before you try to back them out. Note that the bolt holes are exposed at the back end of the bolt also, try to get some back there too since its under the water pump and rust is likely. Snapping one of those off would make for a nasty project. If they don't budge, try a propane torch, heating up a corner at a time where the bolt passes through the base. The base is actually yet another mount that directly bolts to the block. Don't sweat warming it up.From what I've read on here that particular mount has a tendency to break, I would guess due to torsional load.
If you want some reference pictures let me know. My motors still in the garage.
On Wed, May 14, 2008 at 2:49 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
My aft starboard motor mount is broken.
I have a new one, but have really no idea how to replace it. DO I have to loosen everything, attach the motor to a comealong attached to a 4×4 across the companionway, lift and then replace? Or is there (please god) and easier way?
Can I replace the sucker without realigning the engine (Which I REALLY don’t know how to do)
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Paul, I used a cutoff disc on a drill to remove mine. Cut a few notches to open up the center then carefully work your way toward the mast. Once you remove a wedge from the step you can gently pry the reminder out. I managed to do this without damaging the mast. My replacement step from Rig Rite arrived this past week.
Chuck
On 5/9/08, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Jack:
Bob's numbers are pretty close. Since mine is lying on the ground (chained to a tree and my boat cradle with a 1 ton chain hoist trying unsuccessfully to remove my mast step) , I was able to measure it and it is exactly 30 ft.
Paul
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Eric, there's a rubber hose that runs from the top of the valve cover to an aluminum tube. That tube extends down to the air cleaner. There is no element in the U shaped breather. If you were to remove the exhaust manifold it will come of with it. It could be removed independently but as there's nothing to service there would be no reason. You should be able to feel the mesh screen that covers the opening if start with your hand aft of the lift pump and reach up under the heat exchanger. Ensuring it isn't fouled with dog hair is about the best you can do.
I looked closely at mine while it was off and thought that maybe at one point is was set up to be an oil bath type breather but wasn't really sure. The W60 manual makes no reference to any oil in the assembly.
Keeping the engine compartment free of dust and debris should help reduce wear on engine components. Dirt, whether in the fuel on in the air is the enemy of the diesel engine.Chuck
On 5/11/08, Eric Lorentzon < ([email][/email])> wrote:
OK – this from the stupid questions department –
Where is the air intake on a W-60? I looked all about the engine and could not find an air filter – or what looked like an air intake.Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
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Robert, they were nomal threads on Sea Duty. They are both on the same set of threads.
Turning them counter clockwise should remove them from the packing/bearing assembly.On Sat, Apr 26, 2008 at 12:55 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi All,
I need to repack the rudder packing gland – have the packing but wondering if there are two nuts (one locking) and which direction they turn. I suspect right to tight, left to loose but would appreciate input. I'd hate to be whanging on them in the wrong direction…
Bob
Pelican #8
—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
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Adam, the pulpit was installed either by Hal or the previous owner. I'm happy with it, however I've yet to have two anchors on it. With the thruster I can leave and return to the slip by myself. Not having to rely on crew gets me out on the water more often. I suspect with enough practice the thruster won't be needed. It does take some of the pucker factor out of docking though.
I'll be down today before noon if you are still around.
ChuckOn Fri, Apr 25, 2008 at 6:05 PM, adam silverstein wrote:
I'm staring at her just now! Chuck: did you add the anchor pulpit and how happy are you with it? I traded for a ginormous teak plank and this is a nice project for it. Ps: bow thrusters are cheating.
-Adam Silverstein
(via iPhone)
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Paul, you asked about the bolts holding the mizzen step in place. That is what I was describing.
Chuck
On Sun, Apr 20, 2008 at 8:58 PM, Paul Lefebvre wrote:
Chuck:
Since I assume you were talking about the Main Mast step…..
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Paul, I spent this morning doing what you described below. They are in fact lag bolts. In my case there was just enough left of the stud to grip with the vise grips. They were pretty snug to say the least. I started by rocking (spinning) them forward and backwards till they were free to turn. One backed out with no issue, the other I had to pull up on while twisting. It was a bear to get out.
Hey, did you find a replacement step? I sent spects up to metalmast and have yet to hear back from them. I'm considering making one from a laminate of starboard (marine lumber).
Pulled my V-Drive brackets out to clean up and paint. Got the coupler off the end of the shaft and was able to remove the stuffing box. Managed to get the fuel tank on board, start work on the cradle next weekend.
Chuck
On 4/19/08, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
When My mizzen mast was removed, the my mast step remained in the mast when the bolts sheared.
Do you access the bolts by removing the wooden plate attached to the laminated wood beam just above the engine. If so, I guess I can assume those green slot screws are going to break as soon as I put some force on them!!!
Also, any hints on removing the mast step from the mast would be appreciated. I having been dosing it with PB Blaster, but I am not sure of the best way to get some leverage on it. The only thing I can think of is either a slide hammer or come-along attached to a couple L bolts slipped into the bolts holes.
Thanks,
PaulBoundless #28
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