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Dropout is the sludge left behind in your blocks cooling passages. It is the failed component of AF. Either (ethylene glycol or propolene glycol) type will do it. As survival the engine is so dependant on the fluid, a quality mix of AF and distilled water is cheap insurance. 2-3 years is a good timeframe. Distilled water actually has better heat transfer ability that anti freeze, but is missing the lubricants and anti corrosion capability. That is what you are replacing, not the ability to cool.
Modern trucks have coolant filters on the system to trap the dropout and run and the newer units are running 'permenent antifreeze' . Fleet management takes the stuff out, runs it through a reclamation system, puts a base additive back in and puts it back in the truck, or just replaces it.
A discount product will do fine, replace it more often. A high end product like Prestone will last longer. Ol' red will do fine with either.
Chuck
On Sat, Sep 27, 2008 at 6:27 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Rodd,
I think all manufacturers are now recommending the extended life coolants, but then they want you to replace it every year – go figure.John
On Sat, Sep 27, 2008 at 5:25 PM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Time to change my antifreeze again after 3 years. Does anyone know the latest thinking if I should add the green prestone type again, or go to the extended life formulas?
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I replaced my solid lines with 1/4″ USCG rated rubber fuel line.
On Wed, Sep 17, 2008 at 8:46 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I am redoing my fuel system to add a fuel pump and a second racor filter.
I have the W58. Do you think 1/4″ line is ok or should I use 5/16?
Any experience out there?
alan
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Tor, the windvane configuration you are looking at, is it designed to fit a sloop or ketch? I'd think the mizzen boom would interfere with the operation of the device.
Chuck
On Wed, Sep 10, 2008 at 9:36 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
John,
…….Bottom line is we'd need at least 5 of us to qualify.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The fresh water side operates under pressure. The proper cap is rated for about 9 psi. An increase in pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant.
The tank is called a surge tank or a recovery tank. A valve in the 'radiator' cap allows the coolant to enter the tank as the air and coolant in the system expands and build pressure.
When the engine cools the air and coolant contract creating a vacuum in the system with unseats another valve in the radiator cap allowing coolant to be drawn back into the system. The surge tank ensures that air isn't drawn back into the system.
The valves in the cap can fail and should be checked periodically or replaced. Most diesel shops will have a cap tester. It looks similar to a radiator pressure testing hand pump.
Something as simple as a liter drinking water bottle with the overflow hose pushed through a hole in the screw cap will function as a surge tank. Mount it as high up in the compartment as you can.
Chuck
On Fri, Aug 29, 2008 at 2:06 PM, Bill Emberley < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I bought my 424 from a retired Navy Captain and he
always warmed the engine up with the radiator cap
loose and tightened it after the coolant got warm. I
never understood why but after reading all the
commentary perhaps it is to avert the vacuum/overflow
situation from occurring. We are cruising this
weekend so I will experiment around with loosening the
cap during the warm-up period and report back.
Bill Emberley
P424 “Running Tab”— Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:My W60 did the same as Rich's. When I put the new
Cummins in the overflow
tube ran into the engine pan. The overflow was a
nasty cocktail of coolant
and the oil that was the protective coating for the
tubing in the heat
exchanger. It left a wonderful mustard stain in the
new pan. Thankfully I
had not painted the pan but used pigmented epoxy.
Gary from Deaton's
recommended doing it that way so cleaning is not an
issue, just a wipe with
the sponge and it's gone. I asked Marcus from Trans
Atlantic and he said
that the engine will find it's level after a few
hours of running. I moved
the tube to a small container to make clean up
easier. It's not a true
reservoir, just an overflow container to cut down on
the mess.Linus
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Adam, which one do you need? I've got each but none have been serviced. They were on Jim Ashworths engine, running when removed. The main exchanger suffered some damage when the engine was shipped, one of the hose intakes was dented but it could likely be rounded back out.
Chuck
On Mon, Aug 25, 2008 at 3:13 PM, adam silverstein < ([email][/email])> wrote:
any spares hiding out there?
-busted in Falmouth (but got the temporary fix thanks to 90 lbs dockside water!)-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
(“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
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Rich, thanks for the correction. You are right, I have a new RV-26.
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When I pulled the V-Drive out over the winter I took the time to replace the stuffing box hose. When I took it off it appeared to have begun to delaminate when viewed from the ends. I also bead blasted the entire packing assembly. It cleaned up beautifully and can now be adjusted by hand. I only need the packing wrench to snug up the lock nut.
My success with the teflon drip free packing is another story. I'll probably go back to standard flax.
On 8/9/08, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I assume that you have a stock packing gland and not a dripless retrofit. Adjusting the packing nuts and replacing the packing material is normally considered a maintenance project that the owner should be able to handle. You can purchase a pair of short adjustable pipe wrenches that fit the packing nut on the 424. Sorry, I don't have a link handy. If you have questions about how to do this, I'm sure the group will help out.Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob, I've not received the new unit yet. Hoping it arrives this week. It is a direct replacement other than it has a oil pump on it. This changes the dimensions, if you have a bulkhead directly forward of the unit you may need to modify the bulkhead. On our boats I don't think this is an issue.
I had the old one out over the winter. Not terribly difficult to get out, just time consuming, nearly 6 hours (nearly every bolt was rusted in place). Mark all the brackets so they end up back in the same spot, with the same orientation. The upper shaft has to be removed, the lower backed out about 6″.
I'm hauling out to do the work as I have another hull item to look into. When it goes back in alignment is critical.
$2500 for the replacement, I'll be doing the install and let the yard align the V-Drive and the engine when in.Hope this answers your questions.
Chuck
On 8/11/08, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Chuck,
How expensive and hard was it to install the RV20? Is it a direct replacement?
Bob
On Sun, Aug 10, 2008 at 6:57 PM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Dan, I was inspecting my V-Drive a few weeks ago. I found a chunk of metal in the water jacket. It was part of one of the fins in the jacket that create turbulence in the raw water chamber. I grasped the remainder of the fin with a thumb and forefinger and it broke off. I tested another and it did the same. This leads me to think the upper portion of the drive housing is now suspect.
It does weep some oil, very little and is noisy. I just finished a rebuild and am replacing the V-Drive with the newer RV20 unit that no longer uses raw water to cool it. Cast iron exposed to salt water for 30 years…. go figure.As for the W58, if its running well. Don't mess with it. 2500 hours is few on a slow turning overbuilt industrial engine. You might consider having the injectors serviced, but I wouldn't bother if its running clean (no soot on the stern) and smooth.
Chuck
On 8/10/08, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:
How do you know when the V-drive is getting long in the tooth and needs some TLC?
Dan Kalinowski
(New to Pearson 424 Ketch and v-drive contraption)
S/V Swift—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Dan, I was inspecting my V-Drive a few weeks ago. I found a chunk of metal in the water jacket. It was part of one of the fins in the jacket that create turbulence in the raw water chamber. I grasped the remainder of the fin with a thumb and forefinger and it broke off. I tested another and it did the same. This leads me to think the upper portion of the drive housing is now suspect.
It does weep some oil, very little and is noisy. I just finished a rebuild and am replacing the V-Drive with the newer RV20 unit that no longer uses raw water to cool it. Cast iron exposed to salt water for 30 years…. go figure.As for the W58, if its running well. Don't mess with it. 2500 hours is few on a slow turning overbuilt industrial engine. You might consider having the injectors serviced, but I wouldn't bother if its running clean (no soot on the stern) and smooth.
Chuck
On 8/10/08, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:
How do you know when the V-drive is getting long in the tooth and needs some TLC?
Dan Kalinowski
(New to Pearson 424 Ketch and v-drive contraption)
S/V SwiftPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Alan, it was a real treat seeing a few of the 'girls' rafted up together. It's always exciting to unexpectedly catch a glimpse of another 424, to see a few of them together even better.
You could have only topped it off with an aerial shot of the fleet under sail.Chuck
On 7/30/08, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Was anuyone able to view the pictures I posted? Just
want to make sure that the link was ok.
alanPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP) would probababy work even better. Laminated a few 1/2 inch sections together and shape to fit. Takes paint very well. No clue where you get it, but every yard uses it. Laminates can be glued with 5200 or epoxy.
A commercial portable belt sander (the big round end) could be used to create the mating surface.
I'll take a picture of the aluminum stand-off my main is attached too if you like. A machine shop could make a duplicate.On 6/25/08, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hey Bob,
I agree Starboard is well suited to this sort of application,
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Bill, call me I have two used sets. 804-370-2271.
On 6/16/08, Bill Emberley < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I have searched the globe for Westerbeke 60 fuel lines with no luck. They are most certainly no longer available from the manufacturer. Does anyone have any ideas on sources for custom fuel line manufacturing resources?
Any thoughts are welcome.
Thanks!
-Bill Emberley
Running Tab #86Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bill, here's who I purchased some of my W60 parts from. http://www.engines1.com/. They are in Norfolk VA.
Torrensen lists them on thier site for $62.50 each provided they are available.
http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.php?owner=mdd&page_ident=24577-236-237&model=W58%20Propulsion%20/%2020%20KW%20Generator&manufacturer=Westerbeke&title=Fuel%20System&quant_position=&catalog=24577&printparts=&printservice=&printoperators=&comment1=Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Whoops, nevermind. See above its a W58.
On Sun, Jun 8, 2008 at 9:45 PM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Bill, try Thornycroft in the UK. I've got some used ones here. I suspect you'd prefer new.
On Sun, Jun 8, 2008 at 9:09 PM, Bill Emberley < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Bob,
Your email prompted me to do a thorough check for
leaks then a system bleed. Discovery- #3 fuel pipe
compression fitting at the injector gave up the ghost
and is at least one of the air leaks. I had the #1
fuel line go out a few years back and had a repair job
done that has held to this day. In any case I think
it is time to replace all.
Any ideas on where I could get a new set? My local
source said it would be difficult to find, and costly.
I just want to eliminate any potential air leak
problems.
Had an great sail today on San Francisco Bay. Warm
and sunny. Winds SW at 25-30. Just right for the 424.
-Bill— Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Bill,
It sounds as if you have an air leak in the system
that the normal flow at
speed will cover. Not a big one. Find that first.If there's an air leak in the fuel system, all
installing a pump will do is
make the system leak positively. Sure, the engine
will idle, but you'll
also be putting fuel in the bilge.There is already a booster pump on the engine. You
could use another one on
the fuel tank where the cut-off solenoid is, if it's
still there. If not,
there are already wires for a pump or whatever that
is turned on with the
ignition.Bob
On Sat, Jun 7, 2008 at 10:44 AM, Bill Emberley
< ([email][/email])>
wrote:I have had random engine failures when idling for
long
period of time on my old Westerbeke. After a
bleeding
session the engine runs fine. I am considering
installing an in-line 12v fuel pump to increasefuel
flow.
Questions
1. Any recommendations on a Pump.
2. Do you install it before or after the Racor
filters?
3. Is it wired to activate with the ignitionswitch?
Thanks for any ideas you old salts may have.
Bill Emberley
Running Tab
P424 #86
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—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingEdit One Productions, Inc.
2310 Clement Avenue
Alameda, CA 94501Studio 510-814-9519
Fax 510-814-6945
Cell 415-279-1340
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Bill, try Thornycroft in the UK. I've got some used ones here. I suspect you'd prefer new.
On Sun, Jun 8, 2008 at 9:09 PM, Bill Emberley < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Bob,
Your email prompted me to do a thorough check for
leaks then a system bleed. Discovery- #3 fuel pipe
compression fitting at the injector gave up the ghost
and is at least one of the air leaks. I had the #1
fuel line go out a few years back and had a repair job
done that has held to this day. In any case I think
it is time to replace all.
Any ideas on where I could get a new set? My local
source said it would be difficult to find, and costly.
I just want to eliminate any potential air leak
problems.
Had an great sail today on San Francisco Bay. Warm
and sunny. Winds SW at 25-30. Just right for the 424.
-Bill— Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Bill,
It sounds as if you have an air leak in the system
that the normal flow at
speed will cover. Not a big one. Find that first.If there's an air leak in the fuel system, all
installing a pump will do is
make the system leak positively. Sure, the engine
will idle, but you'll
also be putting fuel in the bilge.There is already a booster pump on the engine. You
could use another one on
the fuel tank where the cut-off solenoid is, if it's
still there. If not,
there are already wires for a pump or whatever that
is turned on with the
ignition.Bob
On Sat, Jun 7, 2008 at 10:44 AM, Bill Emberley
< ([email][/email])>
wrote:I have had random engine failures when idling for
long
period of time on my old Westerbeke. After a
bleeding
session the engine runs fine. I am considering
installing an in-line 12v fuel pump to increasefuel
flow.
Questions
1. Any recommendations on a Pump.
2. Do you install it before or after the Racor
filters?
3. Is it wired to activate with the ignitionswitch?
Thanks for any ideas you old salts may have.
Bill Emberley
Running Tab
P424 #86
To unsubscribe, e-mail:
For additional commands, e-mail:
—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingEdit One Productions, Inc.
2310 Clement Avenue
Alameda, CA 94501Studio 510-814-9519
Fax 510-814-6945
Cell 415-279-1340
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
