Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Tor,
Yes, I used Groco valves (bronze bodies, SS ball valves) for each of the seawater users (frig, AC, galley). I left an additional valve (plugged) for future needs (water maker, etc.).
I think the grounding issue to prevent electrolysis of the metal parts by keeping all seawater immersed metal at the same electric potential. I didn't do that so maybe I'll have another project in a few years.On Mon, Sep 15, 2008 at 4:53 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Rich,
Why would you need to ground each piece of metal?
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original MessageQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor,
I built my manifold pretty much as you have done. When I discovered the problem with the brass parts I rebuilt it mostly in bronze. The only non-bronze components are the close nipples that connect the T fittings. These are nylon. Since they are short and thick and are mostly inside the bronze T's I think it is more than strong enough. I haven't looked the ABYC standards nor have I had a marine surveyor approve it. Of course two surveyors approved my old manifold that nearly disintegrated in less than 5 years.
So maybe you don't need to completely start over.On Mon, Sep 15, 2008 at 11:03 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Quent,Using PVC below the waterline is not my personal preference. Also, I may need to get this past an insurance
surveyor. I'm still looking at options. Nobody seems to make seawater manifolds in any form & size I can use.
Stainless steel pipe fittings become awfully expensive for this, bronze is worse, and I don't think there are
ball valves available in either material. You could probably stand on schedule 80 PVC pipe and not break it,
but I'm not clear on what is meant by “stand on it sideways against the hull.”Later today I'll get a quote from my welder to custom-fabricate something in stainless for me.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original Message
<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
What Rich described for brass fittings in a seawater environment is exactly what happened to my seawater manifold this past summer. I made it up with a combination of bronze and brass fittings. After 5 years all of the brass fittings had deteriorated significantly. One brass hose barb broke off with almost no effort on my part. I replaced the manifold with a combination of plastic (close nipples) and everything else bronze. I hope this one lasts a little longer.
On Sun, Sep 14, 2008 at 2:32 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:That's what I'm talkin' about. Whatever you do, if you haul or stay in the water up north in the winter, you'll have to make sure the lines are empty. I use a compressor to clear them. But since I live on the boat, the bilge stays warm enough to not freeze.Bob
On Sun, Sep 14, 2008 at 3:09 PM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Be careful with brass fittings in saltwater applications. They can suffer from what is called dezincification. After a few years they will become brittle and may snap off. I had this happen to the engine seawater strainer.Bronze fittings are becoming increasingly difficult to find. PVC can split open if it freezes. I think nylon or marilon may be the only viable choice these days. The stuff they use for home sprinkler systems might work.
Rich
BlackSheep #47Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Wouldn't the pressure have to include atmospheric pressure on the water surface for a total of around 16 psi at the through-hull?
John
On Sun, Sep 14, 2008 at 9:22 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Yes. It's easy. Water in a column provides about .49 pounds per square inch. That means for every 2 feet or so, it's a pound (close enough). At three feet, you could say, then, it's 1.5 psi static pressure (dynamic is not taken into account here). It's also the reason that water pressure at 33 feet is twice atmospheric (about 14.7 x 2). This is close enough for government work. If you're building something that will only withstand 2 psi, I'd make it stronger.
You could look up the exact conversion, but half a pound per foot is pretty close.
Bob
On Sun, Sep 14, 2008 at 8:54 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Does anyone know, or know how to figure out, the mean (psi) pressure of seawater 3' below the surface? In
other words, what is the pressure on a hose connected to a thru-hull 3' below the waterline?Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
RE: Mizzen interference with the wind vane.
When we sailed from Bermuda to the Azores in 2005 we were on starboard tack for 2 weeks. Finally in the last few days we had to go on port tack. We had furled the mizzen a few days earlier and I just forgot about it when we tacked. Then I couldn't get the Monitor to hold a decent course. This was at night, and I couldn't figure what was wrong. I assumed something had come loose in the Monitor, but hanging off the transom with a flashlight I couldn't see anything out of order. I finally gave up and put the boat on autopilot. After an hour or so I noticed the furled mizzen boom hanging off to windward. I brought the mizzen, still furled, across to leeward and re-engaged the Monitor and all things were right again.
So its not just the mizzen sail that can interfere with the vane gear. The boom with the furled sail was causing enough disturbance in the air flow to make the Monitor useless. Interestingly, my Bimini never seemed to cause a problem.
John
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
That is a nice looking vane gear, very clean and simple-looking. I didn't look at this product before making my decision to go with the Monitor. It sure looks better on the transom than my oil derrick. If the performance is good enough to allow the use of a shorter vane, then it is likely you can tack the mizzen without having to jack the mizzen boom up with the topping – something I have to with my monitor.
I'd still be a little uncomfortable with so much of the gear and lines inside the aft locker, but that doesn't seem to be a problem for the users of this vane. The installation will certainly be a lot more difficult than the Monitor and any other vane gear that just bolts onto the transom. I installed the Monitor in two days. It could have been one day, but I decided to think about it overnight before starting to drill the holes. Anyway the installation is a one time activity so that isn't a big deal.Geez, the price of the Monitor has sure gone up since I bought mine in 2004. I think the price at that time, for everything required, was just a little over $3K. Of course that price was the normal boat show discount.
I was little put-off by the comparison web-page that tried to run-down the Monitor in comparison to the Cape Horn. I've never heard Hans run-down a competitor's product, he just pushes what he believes are the Monitor's qualities. Oops, I just found Hans' dig at what must be the Cape Horn, “Another windvane currently on the market is sold at a somewhat lower initial price. An installer has told us that a 3-1/2 inch hole had to be drilled in the middle of the transom, and in order to support the single(!!) mounting tube, four pads (“should have been six pads”) had to be glassed in for the supporting tubes. It took a professional rigger four days to get the gear installed and the installation cost turned out to almost match the purchase price of the unit. The lazarette was filled with the steering apparatus and all storage space was lost.”
BTW, I've found the Monitor's light air performance to be very good, but only with the large vane.
John
On Fri, Sep 12, 2008 at 10:01 AM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Tor, the windvane configuration you are looking at, is it designed to fit a sloop or ketch? I'd think the mizzen boom would interfere with the operation of the device.
Chuck
On Wed, Sep 10, 2008 at 9:36 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
John,
…….Bottom line is we'd need at least 5 of us to qualify.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
And I thought I was the only boat owner who didn't have a PS card. When I go to the local WM in Solomons, MD they first ask for the PS card, then for the WM Advantage card.
On Wed, Sep 10, 2008 at 9:55 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:They’ve actually cracked down quite a bit on yacht owners being able to do that. It’s worth a shot, but maybe harder than it once was.On 9/10/08 6:30 PM, Silver Heels wrote :
Quote:Why not just join Port Supply? Everything is 20-40% cheaper. Or something like that.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Patrick,
I'm not sure how your external or overflow coolant reservoir works. I didn't have one on my old W60. I filled the coolant through the cap on the engine reservoir. On my new Yanmar there is an overflow reservoir. I have been told to keep the coolant level on a cold engine between the “Low” and “Full” marks on the overflow reservoir. I add coolant to this reservoir not directly into the engine reservoir.
So if yours works the way mine does, you should add coolant to that reservoir – to what level I don't know. Are there markings on the reservoir?
This appears to indicate you are low on coolant, but probably not much. The cooling system will probably maintain a normal engine temperature until the coolant level gets real low.John
On Thu, Aug 28, 2008 at 4:09 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I'm thinking about this at my desk at work away from my engine manuals.
During our test sail the engine over heated and the heat exchanger was boiled refinished and remounted. Since then we've used the boat and the temp stays at 180F when warmed up and we have good water flow through the exhaust.
The other day I pulled the cap off the coolant reservoir in the port lazerette because it was looking old and tired and that tank was empty. I was expecting it to be full like the radiator or coolant reservoir in my car. Anyway, now I'm confused as to what that tank actually is and what I should be seeing. Anyway, I was just pondering this and thought I'd ask since I don't have my manuals at hand.
Thanks!
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick's Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
+1 on the nitrile gloves. I go through a box every 6 months.
Another good thing to have around is a lot of vinegar. I'm not sure how it works on 5200, but vinegar cleans uncured epoxy off your hands and tools with none of the problems that acetone and other petroleum solvents produce.John
On Mon, Aug 11, 2008 at 6:29 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Because of things like this, I think the best thing you could buy a boat owner is a box of nitrile gloves. 🙂-p
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rick,
Any further developments on this issue? If the G27 batteries can start the engine once it cools without any charging, then I have to agree with Bob that is likely a heat related problem – most likely in the starter.However, I did have a problem on a previous boat, that initially acted like your problem. The wire terminal which attached the boat ground to the engine block had cracked and nearly separated. Therefore most of the amps for the starter motor were flowing for the physical contact of the lug terminal lying on top of the engine. The engine would start dockside, but when I needed to restart on returning to the marina it would randomly not start. Fortunately that was a 2-cylinder engine and I could hand crank it. I got really good at hand cranking the engine that summer. At first I thought the problem was linked to a warm engine, but as the lug terminal worked it's way toward total separation, but failure to start became more random and no longer consistent with engine operation.
I trouble shot the problem all summer, but never once thought to check the boat ground. Finally I gave up and turned in a work order to the boat yard. The mechanic took the started off the engine and bench checked it with no problem found. Then after re-installing the starter and the engine continuing to not start he took a slight tug on the boat ground and this time the terminal separated and the ground wire came loose from the engine block. He replaced the lug terminal and re-secured it to the block and I never had a starting problem thereafter.
Needless to say I was embarrassed to have not tested the most basic electrical troubleshoot step for an entire summer. If your problem continues to be consistent with the engine being warm, then this is likely not the source of the problem. However, a good tug on both the engine and battery terminals is probably worth doing.John
On Sat, Aug 9, 2008 at 6:50 PM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Rick
From your description, I can't tell how you have your batteries connected. I use a separate starter battery that does nothing but start the engine. It doesn't run anything else. This insures that no matter how much I run the house batteries down, I can start the engine. The boat didn't come this way. It came with a pair of 8D deep-cycle batteries in the starboard locker. I found that these batteries weren't very good for starting the engine. They don't have enough cold-cranking capacity and they can get run down. What you really want is a starter battery for starting the engine and deep cycle batteries for house batteries. I use a generic truck starter battery. The largest starting battery that Sams Club sells. Hooking an isolated battery up like this can be expensive or complicated but there is at least one simple way to do this using a solenoid switch.It sounds as if you have an electrical problem somewhere; perhaps a loose connection somewhere in your starter circuit. Try cleaning the terminals off with sandpaper and tightening them back up. The next time the engine fails to crank, try shorting out the starter solenoid. You may have an issue there.
Regards
Rich – BlackSheepQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rick,
I assume that during the time the engine is cooling down your are back in your slip and the battery charger is charging the start battery.
If that is the case I would look at the Duo Charge system you are using to charge the start battery when the engine is running. I'm not familiar with this system, but it may be similar to the battery combiner I use on Sarah. Mine is wired the opposite of what you appear to have. The combiner connects the house battery to the alternator output once the start battery is above 13.3VDC. The original combiner on Sarah failed in 2006 on a passage from Lagos, PT to Gibraltar. The result was all the navigation instruments and lights went out in the middle of the night. Similar to what you do for your start battery I manually combined the batteries which restored power to the instruments and allowed the alternator to recharge the house battery.So it is possible the Duo Charge system has failed and is not providing sufficient charge to the start battery. A quick test would be to check the voltage of the start battery after the engine has been running for a few minutes. If the start battery is being charged the voltage should be 14VDC or more.
A fully charged Group 27 should be adequate to start the engine. I'm temporarily using a Group 27 to start my Yanmar engine with no problems.
John
On Mon, Aug 4, 2008 at 5:35 PM, Rick Dugger < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Has anyone experienced this situation and have recommendations?
Eclipse (#73) was repowered by the PO in 1999 with a Westerbeke 63C.
Last season I did not seem to have this issue. It appears to have developed this season.
The engine start battery, an 8D, was replaced early this season because it was old and got to the point it wouldn't start the engine cold or hot. I replaced the 8D with a Group 27.When the engine is cool it cranks quickly and starts quickly.
When the engine is hot (engine has been run for a while, turned off) the start battery really really struggles to turn the engine over (it cannot turn the engine over fast enough to start)… I have to combine my house bank with the start battery to get it started.(I use a Balmar MaxCharge 612 to charge the house bank and a Balmar Duo Charge to keep the engine start battery charged.)
Do I just not have a big enough start battery?
Is the starter suffering from some heat related disorder?
ThanksRick
Eclipse—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thatcher,
If you have the same pump as I had, there is a similar replacement from Jabsco/PAR.PRODUCT NAME : Jabsco Pumps model # 37220-1010
You can go to the Jabsco website and search on this model and then tell if it is a drop-in replacement for your pump.
John
On Mon, Aug 4, 2008 at 1:10 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Can you send a picture? I know the one I have can be purchased at West Marine. It's a Whale hand pump. But that gives me an idea for my new salt water foot pump – I can put a 'T' to the refrigerator. Thanks!
On Mon, Aug 4, 2008 at 6:05 AM, Thatcher Stone < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I have a hand pump over my galley sink which is connected to a valve inside the cabinet below, selecting salt or the icebox.
Does anyone know where I can find a replacement?
Thatcher A. Stone
Wavemaker—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Jim,
I went with Lewmar Ocean hatches about 6-8 years ago. They were essentially drop in replacements. I only had to sand the frames below decks because of a slight difference in the curvature of the spigots at the corners. At the time the only replacements Bomar offered were the same cast hatches with the same screw down dogs. Today Bomar may offer something different. I liked the Bomar Seabreeze hatches, but at the time they did not fit the existing cutouts. I think Atkins & Hoyle also made a drop in replacement, but I went with Lewmar because I had used the same hatches on a previous boat and was satisfied with that choice.
No leaks or breakages since I put them on Sarah.john
On Mon, Jul 28, 2008 at 12:56 AM, Jim Ashworth < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I know there was an earlier thread on this, but I can’t find it.
What have others found to be a good drop-in replacement for the original hatches on the ’78 vintage ketch? They are the Bomar cast aluminum units. Are there several options? Best option?
Thanks!! Jim Ashworth, Peregrine
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
had one for 20 years. I didn't even need to put on my glasses to recognize that thing
John
On Mon, Jul 7, 2008 at 7:06 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
wow you're good!
— John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Outboard motor bracket for an Avon Redcrest dinghy
John
On Mon, Jul 7, 2008 at 1:51 AM, Patrick Walters
< ([email][/email])>
wrote:Anyone know what this is? It was in the storage
area under the v-berth with
the secondary anchor and rode.
I have pics from other angles if needed.
Thanks,
-p
To unsubscribe, e-mail:
For additional commands, e-mail:
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Outboard motor bracket for an Avon Redcrest dinghy
John
On Mon, Jul 7, 2008 at 1:51 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Anyone know what this is? It was in the storage area under the v-berth with the secondary anchor and rode.
I have pics from other angles if needed.
Thanks,
-p
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum