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Actually the Paragon was the original tran (on hull #2 anyway). The Velvet Drive is still in production, although not by Borg Warner. I installed a new Velvet Drive when repowering over the winter to a Yanmar. It appears to be the only direct drive tran still in production suitable for the 424-sized engines.
On Thu, Jul 3, 2008 at 9:26 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hi Rich,They also installed Hurth (can be left in reverse or freewheel when sailing) and Paragon (Maybe, maybe not can freewheel), and the Borg-Warner Velvet Drive which can freewheel in neutral. The Paragon might be a replacement tranny.
Bob
On Thu, Jul 3, 2008 at 6:18 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob
To my knowledge, Pearson installed Borg Warner Velvet-Drive transmissions on all 424's, though they may have put something else in the first couple of production boats. Copy down the information on the manufacturers plate and send it out to us along with a photo of the transmission. If you have trouble reading the plate, rub it with a dry-rease marker and polish it slightly with paper towel to reveal the stamped information.—
Rich Carter
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I'm not sure Jack & Patricia monitor this email list on a regular basis, so I've forwarded your message directly to them.
On Mon, Jun 30, 2008 at 3:54 PM, Elaine Patton < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hello Jack and Pat,
Will you be on Whoosh at the St. Petersburg marina over the holiday weekend? We will be bringing Bel Esprit II over on Thursday or Friday morning and would love to meet you.
Elaine Patton & Ted Riley
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Tor,
I'd give Rig Rite a call. They stock aluminum winch pads and they also know the Pearson spar dimensions. One bad experience by a 424 owner may not be the norm. In my experience they were laid-back, but met my expectations. They are definitely not the folks you want to deal with if you need it yesterday.John
On Wed, Jun 25, 2008 at 10:04 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hi Tor,Just 2 cents, but I'd use HDPE which is the generic name for 'Starboard' and is pretty cheap. It's easily machined, never cracks, chips, peels, splits, checks or powders. You could do the whole thing with a bandsaw. Also, it's non-conductive.
Bob
On Wed, Jun 25, 2008 at 7:00 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thanks, John. I like your last suggestion best. We have Sailor's Exchange in nearby St. Augustine, FL. In fact, that's where I found this wire winch. Wish I'd thought to check for mounting pads at the same time.I was hoping someone in our 424 group had been through this and could say, oh, call so-and-so, they have the mold or they have a generic part that works. Barring that (or getting lucky at the used boat gear place), maybe I'll have to fabricate my own part after all. I'm pretty sure I've figured out a fairly easy way to do it and it would be kind of fun.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Tor,
I would normally recommend you go to Rig-Rite, but given the recent experience of another owner I would temper that recommendation a bit. Maybe the other outfit recommended by that owner can make one.
I had a good experience with Rig-Rite, but that was 5 years ago and things appeared to have changed.
The other option would be any plastics fabricator in your area. Just give them a drawing of the pad you want fabricated and they should be able to turn one out in short order – will likely be expensive though.
Another option is Sailorman in Ft. Lauderdale. They carry lots of odd stuff. It might require a drive down there to find exactly the right pad.John
On Wed, Jun 25, 2008 at 8:15 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I'm planning to mount a (wire) winch on the side of my mainmast. Because the winch base is flat and the
mast side is curved, I want to put a winch mounting plate in between them; one side flat and the other
matching the mast's curve. I believe I could fabricate one out of fiber reinforced epoxy, but I've got
enough projects going already. Does anyone know a source for winch mounting pads that match the curvature
of the 424's mast?Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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John Stevenson
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I gotta admit I would like to use shore water pressure, especially right now when I started to take a shower and discovered my tank just went dry. Gotta run the hose from the dock to the deck open deck plates, then monitor the water level in each tank until full.
The only thing that keeps me from implementing the shore water system is my experience in Florida a few years ago. My neighbor's AC was cycling on and off every 30 seconds with the stream of water coming out of the thru-hull. It was pretty noisy. When my neighbor showed up and went aboard I asked if he planned to run his noisy AC all night. He replied, “????? – I ain't got no Air Conditioner!”
Well he did have a very powerful bilge pump and a really clean bilge.John
On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 1:28 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:When I put the shore water connector in recently I put it in the port coaming pocket aft side. That way it's out of the way. Using the same 1/2″ plastic tubing that runs through the rest of the boat I plumbed in a whole house filter mounted on the bulkhead of the port lazerette, and continued on down into the locker where the water heater is. The water heater has two manifolds, the hot and the cold water sides. I connected the tubing to the cold water side.Normally when the boat is at the dock, I turn off the water pump and just use city pressure to do the job. I've thought of installing a bypass of the water pump so I can fill the tanks from city water but am a little leery of that because it would be too easy to contaminate tanks that way. The bypass would go from the pump discharge to the tank manifold. Whatever valves are open in the manifold would lead to the tank you're filling.
As an aside, a PO installed all tygon tubing with no reinforcement. I'll be replacing all that on both the tank supply lines and vent lines so that bursting is no longer an issue. I'll also remove the old, replaced lines the PO left in place for God knows what reason.
Anyway, my two cents. With the tanks properly sealed and vented, I'll know when it's full by vent overflow and when it's empty when it runs dry. Also, I'll be installing the SCADtech thinger.
Bob
On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 9:29 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I understand the solenoid usage and tying it to the bilge pump, makes sense.But, where do you plumb in the shore water, I assume you have to do it into the water source selection valves under the galley or put a Y-Valve into the line that goes from the deck to one of the tanks (or both so you never have to run a hose across the deck) so you can supply shore water to the plumbing but not be overfilling your tanks as I read in the other threads.
-p
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Unfortunately that is the pump that failed me repeatedly
John
On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 1:17 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Dawn,
There's a Jabsco variable speed pump that's absolutely perfect for you – I replaced mine with it and it's so quiet you can't hear it unless you've got all the faucets open.
I'll see if I can find the part number. But West Marine has them.
Bob
On Wed, Jun 18, 2008 at 6:42 PM, Dawn Rodney < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi all,
I am new to the list. My name is Dawn and I am Patrick Walter's girlfriend. We own S/V Deep Playa.
We are in the midst of searching for a water pump to replace the old one on Deep Playa. The old one is sooooo extremely noisey that I get embarrassed when I turn on the water and feel bad for our neighbors on the dock. Can anyone recommend a particularly quiet pump that they have personally used?
Thanks
Dawn
S/V Deep Playa
Pearson 424—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Dawn,
IMO quiet in a pump is highly over-rated. If you've got the old Jabsco model 300 belt driven pumps hang onto it for as long as you can. They are easy to repair and the re-build kits are readily available. I had to replace mine with the newer Jabsco VSD pumps in 2004. The VSD pump is certainly quieter and uses less power, but I went through 3 of those pumps in a little over 3 years. I believe the model 300 pumps are out of production otherwise I would have gone back to one. Now I have the Jabsco Max 4 pump. It is noisy and draws a lot of current. Hopefully it will last like the old 300.John
On Wed, Jun 18, 2008 at 10:42 PM, Dawn Rodney < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi all,
I am new to the list. My name is Dawn and I am Patrick Walter's girlfriend. We own S/V Deep Playa.
We are in the midst of searching for a water pump to replace the old one on Deep Playa. The old one is sooooo extremely noisey that I get embarrassed when I turn on the water and feel bad for our neighbors on the dock. Can anyone recommend a particularly quiet pump that they have personally used?
Thanks
Dawn
S/V Deep Playa
Pearson 424—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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WC was purchased by Thetford, which still supplies some of the old hardware, but I didn't see any chocks in their website: http://www.wilcoxcrittenden.com/index.asp?bid=
On Fri, Jun 6, 2008 at 12:18 PM, dave jones < ([email][/email])> wrote:
The originals are Wilcox- Crittendon (sp?) don't know if they still make them.
Dave
John Stevenson wrote:
Wichard?
If it is Wichard it is likely not original equipment.
John
On Fri, Jun 6, 2008 at 3:12 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Bob /John:
Thanks for the links, however, none of them carry an 8″ chock. The originals look like they were sized for up to 1.5″ line. Both of mine are bent and one broken, another sign my boat didn't spend all its time in a quiet anchorage somewhere.
I took a closer look (with my glasses on) and there is a symbol with a “W”, with a circle around it, on the chock. I tried Whitecap Industries, but they don't have large chocks either. I can't think of another company that starts with W??, that would makes sense.
Paul
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John Stevenson
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John Stevenson
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Wichard?
If it is Wichard it is likely not original equipment.
John
On Fri, Jun 6, 2008 at 3:12 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Bob /John:
Thanks for the links, however, none of them carry an 8″ chock. The originals look like they were sized for up to 1.5″ line. Both of mine are bent and one broken, another sign my boat didn't spend all its time in a quiet anchorage somewhere.
I took a closer look (with my glasses on) and there is a symbol with a “W”, with a circle around it, on the chock. I tried Whitecap Industries, but they don't have large chocks either. I can't think of another company that starts with W??, that would makes sense.
Paul
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John Stevenson
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Paul,
I assume they are Perko. Similar ones appear on page 172 of their catalogue. I assume you can get them through WM or Defender.John
On Fri, Jun 6, 2008 at 1:23 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Does anybody know who made our original bow chocks and if they are still avaiable. I have a broken one I would like to replace.
Thanks,
Paul
Boundless #28
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John Stevenson
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Tor,
If you haven't done so already, I would post the same question on the SSCA and Cruisers Forums. You'll get a much wider cross-section of experience than from the limited membership of this forum. Of course you will also have to sort out for yourself who knows what of the responses you'll get on those forum. Actually you could just search the forums on the solar panel subject and get a great deal of user experience.John
On Tue, Jun 3, 2008 at 3:18 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Has anyone determined the best brand name(s) and source(s) for solar panels? Are some brands more
efficient than others or better bang-for-the-buck values? Are some better made than others for use on
boats?Thanks,
Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Don,
Assuming you have the same track as I have on hull #2, the key are the rollers that fit on the track. I've replaced my curtain hangers with ones I purchased at Target, but I still have the original track rollers. If you have no hardware at all except the track I'm not sure where you can get the rollers, possibly at a drapery shop. You may be better off discarding the track and putting in a standard shower rod.
Anybody else have success replacing the rollers?John
On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 9:04 PM, Syringa wrote:
Does anyone know where I can get some of the original shower curtain hangers? My track is in good condition but I don't have any hangers.
Thanks
Don
Syringa 124—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Aaron,
I'm sure it is possible, although it would certainly require a lot of fiberglass work and some serious design work. Have you talked to saildrive owners? I think you might be exchanging one set of problems for a bunch of much worse ones.
For example:- Most saildrives are aluminum and zincs are essential to preserve the unit. I have a friend who owns a Sweden Yacht 38 with a Volvo saildrive. He neglected to have the zinc collar replaced for 2 seasons. The result was a $10,000 rebuild of the lower unit. A lot of that may have been faulty wiring on our dock, but still …
- Many saildrives require a haulout to change the crankcase oil.
I would certainly be interested to hear if anyone has converted a P424 to saildrive. I am aware of a few advantages (besides losing the Walters gear).
- Prop force inline with the direction of movement (instead of down 20 deg)
- Excellent control in forward and reverse. My friend can park his S38 like he has a bow thruster.
On Tue, May 20, 2008 at 7:56 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Has anybody repowered a 424 with a saildrive and eliminated the vdrive? Is it even possible?
—
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John Stevenson
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Patrick,
I store my RIB on deck, forward of the mast for several reasons.- A 9' dinghy fits perfectly between the mast and the forward end of the cabin trunck.
- It is convenient to launch and retrieve with the spinnaker halyard, the staysail harlyard or the spare jib halyard.
- It is a rain shield for the forward cabin hatch, allow it to be open is all but the strongest squalls.
- When the forward portion of the dinghy is raised via a halyard it acts as a wind scoop for the forward hatch.
- I can leave it fully or partially inflated on day passages.
- It is the most convenient place from which to launch and retrieve the dinghy
The reasons I would not put it aft of the mast.
- It would block ventilation and light from the saloon hatch over the dining table
- I already placed my life raft under the boom.
I secure the dinghy with straps to the hand rails on the coach roof. This has worked well for 2 trans-Atlantic sails.
There are pictures in various places on my website, particularly under the Sailing/Atlantic Circle pages.
John
On Fri, May 16, 2008 at 5:36 PM, Patrick_Seattle < ([email][/email])> wrote:
This is probably a FAQ, but I didn't find anything in the forum.
A tender is one of the things on my early needs list. I know I want a RIB and I want to mount it on deck during passages. I'm assuming best place for this is on the cabin top under the boom as opposed to forward of the boom.
If you're doing the same what Size/Make/Model do you have.
Even better if you can share a photo of how you're lashing it down.Thanks,
-p
Deep Playa, #152 http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick's Sailing Blog: http://shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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That's it!
On Tue, May 13, 2008 at 7:48 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:You have a locker space aft of the main cabin tanks? Where exactly is it? I have 6″ of “dead space” at the after end of my salon water tanks, between the end of the tank and the end of the settee. Is that what you're referring to?Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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