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Dan,
Sounds like you have a mizzen staysail. It’s a sail I’ve long wanted to
add to Sarah’s inventory. Jack & Patricia Tyler had one on Whoosh and used
it often. Here’s a picture of Whoosh sailing under mizzen staysail in
Caribbean:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Whoosh%20Mizzen%20Stay%20Sail.JPGRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Oct 11, 2013 at 11:04 PM, kalinowski wrote:
I have a 135, which works well with the constant strong trades here in
Hawai’i. I also have a (I guess you would call it a) spinnaker the PO had
made for the mizzen. I have yet to fly this. Does anyone else have this
sail?
If so, what is your experience/advice?Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Tor,
you are correct the cutter rig mast is further aft, making a 150 an even
larger sail.
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Adam,
Do you have a ketch or a cutter? I have a 135 Genoa on my ketch, and it is
as large an overlap as I would want or could set. I suspect you have a
cutter, which might be able to set a 150 as the mast is further forward.
Also the decision must be based on the area in which you sail. If I were
to go trans-ocean again I would opt for a 120. Much of the time off shore
I sailed with the genoa partially furled to about a 120. On the Chesapeake
Bay I was glad I had the larger Genoa.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Oct 9, 2013 at 8:52 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
I have a 120% and a staysail. I’d like a 130-135%. The boat goes ok as
is, though. If you do get a new headsail, make sure the clew is not so
high that you can’t flatten or shape it. I think a 155 is too big.Bob
On Wed, Oct 9, 2013 at 8:39 PM, Adam wrote:
I currently have a 155% genoa on roller fuller, and considering new
headsail. Sailmaker recommends 135% instead of 155%. What do you allhave
and like?
Thanks
Adam
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http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I might add that the FL counties are pretty aggressive in checking the
registration of boats. They know lots of boats come south for the winter.
The registration fee goes to the county, not the state, so the locals are
motivated to check the boats. Volusia County (Daytona Beach) has the worst
reputation for going after boat registration.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Sep 24, 2013 at 11:11 AM, kalinowski wrote:
Tor: Hawai’i has never pressed me for any fees or registration. Neither
has it approached any of my documented dock mates in two different marinas.
There was no sales tax when I bought my 424 and no state paperwork, even
though she was purchased through a broker. I’ll keep my head down and
check further, but here, in my experience, USCG documented boats have no
state connection.How’s that for a reason to sail out here? I think you’d like it.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Most states require registration have a 90-day period after which they
consider the boat permanently in their state and require registration, and
(if appropriate) payment of the sales tax difference between the state of
original sale and the newly registered state. I believe the 90-day period
is consistent for all states on the East Coast, which includes FL. NC was
one of the few states that did not require registration of documented
vessels, but that just changed and they have the 90-day period as well.
I may have told this story before, but …
When I was living in RI in the early 80s I read that MA hired a tax
collector and bought him a Boston Whaler. During the summer months his job
was to go around to all the marinas in the Whaler and record the name,
registration and hailing port of all vessels. Then he would send a tax
bill to the owners of all boats with a MA hailing port not registered in
the state. Over the winter the state put him up in a hotel in Dover, DE to
find any corporations that owned the boats with a DE hailing port. If the
owners of the corporation had a MA residence, they got a tax bill as well.
The word was the state could have bought him a Hinkley instead of a Whaler
for the amount of revenue he brought in.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Sep 24, 2013 at 10:16 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Dan Wrote: Why not just USCG document?
That’s how I do it, Dan, but Silverheels doesn’t spend any appreciable time
in the US so no state has a claim on her. Most states require boats that
remain in their waters for (typically) more than 6 months to state-register
with them, whether or not the boat is federally documented. It’s just a
money-&-control grab, officially sanctioned extortion IMHO, or as our
straight-talking forefathers called it, “taxation without representation.”
(OK, OK, I’ll tone down my Libertarian politics.) I believe the federal
government has decreed that US Documentation is all the registration a
qualifying vessel requires, but most states choose to simply ignore that
law.It’s not only the state registration fee you need to worry about. Once they
have “signed you up,” if you can’t produce proof that you paid state sales
tax someplace when you bought your boat, your new “resident” state may well
go after you for that, too. Now we’re talking thousands. Not a pretty
picture.There are a few legal loopholes for those willing to pursue them. For
example, last time I checked there is no state sales tax on boats
bought/sold/registered in Oregon, New Hampshire, Rhode Island and Delaware.
Also, Florida (and probably other states) do not (or didn’t used to) count
days a boat is in a credible repair facility towards the 6-month time
period
before state registration (or paying a hefty Sales Tax or User Tax) is
required. And so on…Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I just crossed my fingers when I signed the application (the requirement
for original engine make and model is on a separate page from the
application), and didn’t mention my Yanmar repower. The difference in
annual cost is $11 vrs $130.
Obviously the intention is provide a discount for owners who maintain a
true antique – think 1950s Cris-Craft or Hacker, not a 1980s 424.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Sep 23, 2013 at 6:29 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Cool!
On Mon, Sep 23, 2013 at 6:17 PM, quent wrote:
Guys-
Don’t know if anyone here registers their boat in Florida. If so, might
be interested in a letter in the latest issue of Ocean Navigator.
Apparently 30 year old boats qualify as antique and get serious discounton
registration.
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
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I just crossed my fingers when I signed the application (the requirement
for original engine make and model is on a separate page from the
application), and didn’t mention my Yanmar repower. The difference in
annual cost is $11 vrs $130.
Obviously the intention is provide a discount for owners who maintain a
true antique – think 1950s Cris-Craft or Hacker, not a 1980s 424.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Sep 23, 2013 at 6:29 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Cool!
On Mon, Sep 23, 2013 at 6:17 PM, quent wrote:
Guys-
Don’t know if anyone here registers their boat in Florida. If so, might
be interested in a letter in the latest issue of Ocean Navigator.
Apparently 30 year old boats qualify as antique and get serious discounton
registration.
Quent_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Bill,
When I had an RPM-related overheat problem with my W60 it was the heat
exchanger, needed to have it cleaned. I also had a problem of an air lock
after replacing the coolant. However that caused an overheat at idle and
no load. The problem was in the coolant hoses to the water heater.
So it does sound to me like the thermostat. If you are reluctant to run
the engine without a thermostat, just install your spare. If the problem
goes away you need a new spare. If it doesn’t you have a different spare.Good luck.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 3:22 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:If you have good raw water flow as evidenced by the exhaust outlet, then
I’d suspect three things: 1; an air bubble in the coolant system usually
near the thermostat, 2; bad fresh water pump (hardly ever happens, but it
does happen), and finally 3; thermostat. It could also be that the
aluminum extrusion that is surrounding the exhaust manifold is plugged.
But once again, if there’s good flow out the exhaust, that’s probably not
it.You could try a raw water system flush and a fresh water system flush.
Just don’t mix up the flush materials.Bob
On Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 3:17 PM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.
wrote:Quote:Had overheating problem due to blocking of inlet raw water line between v
drive and raw water pump due to separation of internal wall of water line
and blocking of water line. When I cut the line open it looked like
scallops were living
in the line. I found it by checking water flow through each section of
inlet water lineSteve
Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
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Rich,
I haven’t been to your website for a long time, but I thought you did not
implement the standard panel. I thought you built your own panel, just
used the components from Yanmar. I think the main problem is that this
panel should not be exposed directly to the elements. I have the “C” panel
mounted on the bridge deck where the Westerbeck panel was mounted.
I will eventually replace this panel with something similar to what you did.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Sep 8, 2013 at 8:53 AM, wrote:
Quote:John,
I have a 4jh4-te and my yacht club has two of the same engines. We’ve had
no problems with the engine or panel instruments. My club has thousands of
hours on the engines.Rich
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Tor,
I think the simplest solution is a Honeywell meter that you can tie into
the key switch. These are simple mechanical meters that run whenever the
switch is providing power. They are definitely not weather proof and
would have to be installed in the cabin.
I’m not sure if the Yanmar hour meter problem is a failure in the tach or
the circuit board in the panel. If it is in the tach then you might be
able to replace that part (129271-91210)
since this appears to be a standard VDO instrument. I haven’t inquired
about the availability of the component parts of the panel, just what they
call the cover foil.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Sep 6, 2013 at 2:18 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:John,I repowered with a Yanmar 4JH4E and, like you, am 100% happy with the
engine. However, the LCD engine hours read-out has just failed, a little
shy
of 1000 hours. That read-out is built into the tachometer. From what you’re
saying, replacing the tach may be painfully expensive, especially here in
the Grenadines. Maybe I can rig up a separate engine hour meter, something
simple that works. Ideally, I’d like to start it at the current hours
reading (rather than starting it at zero). Any ideas out there? Are
counters
like this pretty common and straightforward?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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One of the real drawbacks of these tanks is its non-standard capacity.
Many tank re-fillers like to charge based on the tank weight, but they
don’t recognize the 6# (or 8#) tank so they want to charge for whatever is
their smallest tank – sometimes a 20#. Pay for 20# of propane and walk
away with 6#. It is becoming more and more difficult to find fillers that
charge only for the volume of propane put into the tank. Here in
Jacksonville the local U-Haul charges by volume of propane put into the
tank.
In Portugal it was even more difficult. Portugal, like Spain and I think
France, has turned the home propane business (actually primarily a Butane
mixture) over to an effective monopoly that only does tank swaps ala Blue
Rhino. However the government subsidizes LPG (PLG in Portuguese) as an
auto fuel. The PLG pumps have the same plugs as fit North American LPG
tanks, but they won’t fill portable tanks. It is illegal in Portugal to
transport PLG tanks in a private auto. I had to turn my LPG tanks over to
a marine business who could legally transport them to the PLG station, have
it filled and return it to me at the marina. It typically cost E25 (then
about $28) to fill one of my tanks. I eventually adapted to the Butane
tanks for my last year in Europe, although those tanks did not fit in my
propane locker.I didn’t see a lot of difference between Butane and Propane.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 11:28 PM, John Stevenson
wrote:I think the 8# weight is the total weight of the tank and the propane.
The capacity of the tank is 6#.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 11:11 PM, Page Two wrote:
Pete I have a 6 lb aluminum from an older boat and I’d swear what I saw
on the P424 I’m about to close on were two 6 lbs although the paperwork
states 8 lbs. It certainly to me, seems bare minimum with the pain it can
be sometimes getting them filled in the islands while at anchor.
Esspecially if I want to make good use of the BBQ on the aft rail. I’m now
convinced I’ll keep a steel 20lb for now and see if I can find a place for
it.
Tor, is your 20lb (?)vented out along with the smaller ones?
Ken
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I think the 8# weight is the total weight of the tank and the propane. The
capacity of the tank is 6#.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 11:11 PM, Page Two wrote:
Pete I have a 6 lb aluminum from an older boat and I’d swear what I saw on
the P424 I’m about to close on were two 6 lbs although the paperwork states
8 lbs. It certainly to me, seems bare minimum with the pain it can be
sometimes getting them filled in the islands while at anchor. Esspecially
if I want to make good use of the BBQ on the aft rail. I’m now convinced
I’ll keep a steel 20lb for now and see if I can find a place for it.
Tor, is your 20lb (?)vented out along with the smaller ones?
Ken
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” Maybe I don’t
cook as much as you.”
Bob,
Probably not. I cook at least one meal on board almost every day, I also
use my gas grill just about every day during the summer. That uses a lot
of gas. I generally go through one 8# tank every 6 or 7 weeks. That’s a
lot of trips when you’re anchored out, or in Europe where getting a propane
tank re-filled is a big deal. Dockside not much of an issue.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 9:12 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Really? Frequently? With mine, I go maybe twice a year. Maybe I don’t
cook as much as you.Bob
On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 9:10 PM, John Stevenson <
wrote:
Ken,
The configuration you describe appears to be the common propane set upfor
424s. That is what I have on hull #2. However, I know of at least one
424, Whoosh, that had an alcohol stove until propane was added. So there
may be other configurations.
The strangest thing about the standard propane setup is the 2nd shut off
switch in the galley, in addition to the one in the locker.
For me the only drawback is the size of the cylinders, which meansfrequent
trips to the propane provider for fill-ups. I’ve partially solved that
problem by adding two more cylinders which are stored in the cockpit.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 8:32 PM, Page Two wrote:
Hi,
Did all 424’s come with the same propane set-up on the port side of
the
lazarette with two 8# tanks? Any modifications anyone has made, or
issues with the set-up, I would love to hear of.Ken
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
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Ken,
The configuration you describe appears to be the common propane set up for
424s. That is what I have on hull #2. However, I know of at least one
424, Whoosh, that had an alcohol stove until propane was added. So there
may be other configurations.
The strangest thing about the standard propane setup is the 2nd shut off
switch in the galley, in addition to the one in the locker.
For me the only drawback is the size of the cylinders, which means frequent
trips to the propane provider for fill-ups. I’ve partially solved that
problem by adding two more cylinders which are stored in the cockpit.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 8:32 PM, Page Two wrote:
Hi,
Did all 424’s come with the same propane set-up on the port side of the
lazarette with two 8# tanks? Any modifications anyone has made, or
issues with the set-up, I would love to hear of.Ken
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The fuel tanks on the early 424s, such as my #2, were steel, and they seem
to have stood up much better than the aluminum tanks. Don’t know when or
why Pearson switched, possibly because they gave up on the 424 replacing
the OI 41s that were coming out of the charter trade. I think I read
somewhere that the USCG required steel tanks on charter boats back in the
70s and 80s.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 11:56 AM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.
wrote:Quote:When Whiffler was repowered about 14 years ago the tank was removed and a
coating was put onto the inside that was supposed to protect the tank long
term. It was done by a previous owner so I do not know the exact nature of
the coating. Thus far it has held up – we shall see in the future.Steve
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